[Blasirl]

Has anyone done this, if so, how...

Pretty easy. What radar detector do you have first?


I would recommend these as a start.

This is from an older post of mine:

I do not have an auto dim mirror, so the power at the mirror was battery voltage and not ignition so I went to the fuse panel.

Just adding the pinouts - thanks to @dhpnet

Here is the pinout for the inside rearview mirror harness (A10) on a 2014 Cruze according to the 2014 service manual.
1 - Backup Lamp Supply Voltage (wire color = L-GN/WH) for option DD8
2 - Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage (VT/WH) for option DD8
3 - Keypad Signal (L-GN/WH) for option UE1
4 - Keypad Supply Voltage (L-GN/BK) for option UE1
5 - Ground (BK)
6 - Keypad Green LED (YE/VT) for option UE1
7 - Keypad Red LED (BN/WH) for option UE1
8-10 Not Occupied

 

[Blasirl]

This is from another post compliments of @Kruise and shows you how the plastic shroud comes off of the mirror base. Just run down the A piller and to the fuse box if you do not have ignition power at the mirror.

 

[Blasirl]

This is a picture of my setup: Escort Max II Mounted to mirror

I used the blendmount. This is a link to a newer version. As for the 9500ix, too rich for my blood<GRIN>

Hopefully someone will chime in and either confirm the mirror plug pinots are the same as Gen I or post a new set. Does your mirror have a 10 pin or 16 pin plug?

 

[Blasirl]

Gave up on these, hidden cameras, laser is way too late with a cop hidden behind a tree, so threw in the towel and set my cruise to 2 mph.

Both work on the principle of a Doppler shift reflected signal is hetrodyned with the reference frequency for an absolute value, was even ticketed for driving under the speed limited, but can't argue with the justice of the peace, also have a cosine error. Better ones determine if the frequency is higher or lower than the reference frequency, higher, you are speeding.

Hitting the brakes if spotted really skyrockets that absolute value for even a higher ticket, just telling it the way it is.

Have a 9 band Cobra, removed that long power cord with that cigar adapter and replaced it with a short cord with a DC power plug on in, the kind you have on your laptop, short mate to the lighted mirror in the visor, operates off of 12V.

I have nothing but praise for the Escort Max II. It is hands down the best detector I have ever owned. I have not received a ticket since purchasing it in 2014. The only improvement I could see it needing is to steal the directional arrow from the Valentine One.

As far as Laser, that is another story. I would recommend this as it is currently the best countermeasure for Laser.

 

[Blasirl]

I didn't even know anyone bought these any longer. I saw them as kind of snake oil holdover from the 70's. Do modern models really work?

Like I said above, mine works great. I used to have a Fox back in the day - junk really, uniden - junk etc etc. The newer ones work quite well. you do have to train yourself to listen to them though. Mine differentiates between X, K and Ka. I have mine set to ignore X. I know most of the areas that still use K, which are fewer and fewer and Ka is the real deal. You spend some coin to get a good one though.

 

[Blasirl]

YOu Guys are making this way too complicated, Just Tap into the power on your maplight..Done... Did it twice already...

That may be the case for someone who is comfortable taking apart the dome light and soldering new wires in place (as I would not use Scotchlocks). If you have the correct pin outs and purchase the mirror tap, this is a non-intrusive, entirely removable way to add a radar detector / camera to your Cruze. This method is especially useful in a Lease type agreement as well.

So I appreciate your comment on there being another way, as there always is. But this is my suggestion.

 

[Blasirl]

You don't have to Solder, and the light trim just pulls off easy showing the wires..

Well then, why don't you post a How-To with pictures for the OP?

 

[Blasirl]

I just need the correct pinouts

I posted what I learned about the 16 pin to 10 pin adapter. I will keep looking for the original sheet I used, but this should be correct. Just ignore the 10 pin side. Also if you do not have any, buy a set of back pins. If you do not have a meter, (I have a Fluke) you will also need a set of decent leads. Harbor freight has a freebie meter that will do what you need (assuming the leads are removable.) If you do not want to get a meter and leads, get the back pins and a test light. (I have a Snap-On).

Using these tools, you can verify the pins.

The 16 pin to 10 pin adapter harness is pinned as follows.
16 pin 5 Auto Dimming + ( gray) to 10 pin 9.
16 pin 6 video + ( ? ) to 10 pin ?
16 pin 7 video - ( ? ) to 10 pin ?
16 pin 8 ground ( black ) to 10 pin 5
16pin backup lamp relay control - reverse - ( green) 10 pin 1
16 pin 11 on star keypad signal ( white ) to 10 pin 3
16 pin 12 on star keypad supply voltage ( light green ) to 10 pin 4
16 pin 13 ignition ( pink) to 10 pin 2
16 pin 14 on star keypad green LED signal (yellow ) to 10 pin 6
16 pin 15 on star keypad red LED signal (brown) to 10 pin 7
16 pin auto dimming- ( red ) to 10 pin 8
Not used. 10 pin 10
The rest of the 16 pins are not currently used.

 

[Blasirl]

Here are a few pics that may help. The red edits are mine.

 

[Blasirl]

Took me a minute to figure out what TY was. I am not a texter and I have a friend named Tyler, Ty for short.