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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all
can anyone tell me where to get cylinder head studs for my 1.4L
arp does not make them
 

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Are you talking about these? Cylinder head bolts.



Torque to yield bolts, throwaway, never could figure this out, on my Japanese Vehicles with an aluminum head on a cast iron block, were reuseable. But not on so called domestic engines.

rockauto. com has them, 35 bucks plus shipping, normally not too bad for shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no studs
I keep pulling them
looking for performance studs
they got them for the 2.2
 

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It's surprising that ARP doesn't make them. I thought they had all the bases covered... I wonder if they would custom make you a set?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sure arp will make them I called them
for a small fee of 200$ a stud they will
I also checked with zzperformance they don't do them for the 1.4 Luj
and they do eco performance
 

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Attaching the head to the engine block? Using the same size threads? Need a ARP thread chaser, follow the same recommended torque sequence.

Having a problem comprehending the advantage of these.

What I would like to see is an aftermarket cast iron head for this thing, this way could scrap those torque to yield bolts. And if the coolant temperature rose 5*F, wouldn't have to be concerned about that aluminum head cracking.

I feel I could live with 5 extra pounds of weight. Back in the good old days, use to port and polish these things. And a Cruze for a performance vehicle? Goes just as fast at 3 mph on a congested freeway just as fast as any other vehicle.
 

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sure arp will make them I called them
for a small fee of 200$ a stud they will
I also checked with zzperformance they don't do them for the 1.4 Luj
and they do eco performance
$200/stud???? Holy crap!!!
 

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OP never came back for the application nor the reason, cylinder head studs? Just a bolt without a head on it, but a nut instead. 37 Ford flathead used these, with a 45* slope on a V-8, was nice for aligning a new head gasket with studs. Or would slide off and end up on the floor.

57 Chevy used studs for the rocker arms, were pressed in, and anything that could be pressed in could be pushed out, a problem. Aftermarket threaded studs were available for around a quarter each, this was a necessity. Anything above the Chevy used threaded studs they didn't fall out.

Still need torque to yield for this aluminum head 1.4L or else it will fall off. Torque all 12 to 26 ft.-lbs starting in the center and work to the outside evenly. Then rotate each one the same sequence 180 degrees. Those last few degrees can give you a heart attack, wonder if the heads are going break off or not. Use only a six point socket.

Looked a several kits on that site, thread size is the same, what's the difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm still looking for studs
keep in mind fella's I been doing this for 30+ year I know how to torque a head
I'm not going to pay ARP for this when 2.2L head studs are only 145$
gess I will wait for then to make them in the mean time I will just keep buying bolt kits
but I did get my hands on a complete 1.4L LUJ for a 100$ all good parts to
so I think I will pay the local guy to do them he won't charge me 200$ a stud
 

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Got any videos of this cool rivermaster? Sounds like a neat setup.
 

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dak10-

I think your one of the first who has removed and reinstalled a head. Can this be done without the GM tools for cam holding when removing the timing chain from the sprockets? Any tips to share, either what your using to mark and maintain position, or the aftermarket tools your using?
 

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OP never came back for the application nor the reason, cylinder head studs? Just a bolt without a head on it, but a nut instead. 37 Ford flathead used these, with a 45* slope on a V-8, was nice for aligning a new head gasket with studs. Or would slide off and end up on the floor.

57 Chevy used studs for the rocker arms, were pressed in, and anything that could be pressed in could be pushed out, a problem. Aftermarket threaded studs were available for around a quarter each, this was a necessity. Anything above the Chevy used threaded studs they didn't fall out.

Still need torque to yield for this aluminum head 1.4L or else it will fall off. Torque all 12 to 26 ft.-lbs starting in the center and work to the outside evenly. Then rotate each one the same sequence 180 degrees. Those last few degrees can give you a heart attack, wonder if the heads are going break off or not. Use only a six point socket.

Looked a several kits on that site, thread size is the same, what's the difference?
They aren't using torque to yield because of the aluminum head as my old 6.2 diesel with cast block and heads have torque to yield head bolts.
They say torque to yield is suppose to hold better because instead of just torqueing it down were each bolt can have different clamp loads (say a bur in a thread that makes resistance go up so the wrench clicks sooner) with torque to yield that extra degree's are stretching the bolts to they have a more even clamping force. Now the reason people go to studs instead of bolts is because studs have more even clamping force.

To the op about this, measure your head bolts and call arp with the measurements and ask if they have anything else that would work. I just did this with my 6.2 diesel for main bearing studs. I got the thread size and pitch, depth in block before threads start and length of hole the stud has to go thru. Even tho they don't make a kit for my engine they still found studs from other things that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sure I videos lots of them
how do I upload them on here or can I upload them here
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
dak10-

I think your one of the first who has removed and reinstalled a head. Can this be done without the GM tools for cam holding when removing the timing chain from the sprockets? Any tips to share, either what your using to mark and maintain position, or the aftermarket tools your using?
no I don't think it can b done without the cam tool kit
I got one off e-bay for 180$ kent moore tool wanted 690$ for it the dealer said they did have the kit
the kit has everything in it u need to do the job
the dealer wouldn't do it for me at all so I had to do my homework on this
you don't have to remove the front timing cover to do a head gasket
tip 1 and I know better but I did it per gm manual clean and dry head bolt this was my mistake
the kit is a Sealey model no. cse5007 20160321_080731.jpg
going to do this again and lube the bolts this time and see if it works better
 

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They aren't using torque to yield because of the aluminum head as my old 6.2 diesel with cast block and heads have torque to yield head bolts.
They say torque to yield is suppose to hold better because instead of just torqueing it down were each bolt can have different clamp loads (say a bur in a thread that makes resistance go up so the wrench clicks sooner) with torque to yield that extra degree's are stretching the bolts to they have a more even clamping force. Now the reason people go to studs instead of bolts is because studs have more even clamping force.

To the op about this, measure your head bolts and call arp with the measurements and ask if they have anything else that would work. I just did this with my 6.2 diesel for main bearing studs. I got the thread size and pitch, depth in block before threads start and length of hole the stud has to go thru. Even tho they don't make a kit for my engine they still found studs from other things that will work.
Get your information from an engineering materials handbook instead off some idiot off the net.

RDS can be machined and formed to a stud or a bolt, take your choice, induction heated to around 2,200*F, then oil squenched for hardening. than had to slowly heated to around 1,300*F and cooled slowly or it will be too brittle and snap like a cracker.

In use, Young's modulus of elasticity is exceeded. for a torque to yield application that permanently deforms it. The spring type action, this is also how springs are made is what equalized the compression forces. And thus also a throwaway part. But still retains a degree of springiness.

Key reason for their use is that a cast aluminum head has seven times the coefficient of thermal expansion then on a cast iron engine block. They have to be able to expand, then contract to their original dimensions to maintain proper torque.

Another advantage of torque to yield, a smaller diameter bolt (or stud) can be used to make the stockholders happier.

Designing this stuff is a team effort, mechanical, materials, stress analysis, production, machinist type engineers. If you stay half awake during these meetings, can ever learn something, but also watch out for those bean counters, also always there with the prime consideration of cost. Then their is mostly the EPA and OSHA concerns for compliance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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dak10-

About a year ago there were some posts by a member chuckitt who was working on an airboat. Is this your company? I think the airboat application is pretty cool.

Here's a link to Trifecta's site with pictures of this engine setup for those that haven't seen an air boat setup.

Cruze 1.4L Turbo set-up for Airboat - chuckitt - Gallery - trifectaperformance.com

There's one person over at the sonic forums who's pulled apart a 1.4L Preloader I believe is his name, but I haven't seen the assembly of the head without the tools that you mention. They are available in the UK, and i believe I remember seeing an Italian manufacturer.

There's an online site if you google Vauxhall Workshop Manuals Astra J, you'll find a site with some LUJ info from Europe. Most of the special tools in Europe are known with EN numbers, vs. the Kent Moore J numbers here in the states. The EN numbers have aftermarket manufacturers. Some of these may come in handy when you start tearing down an engine.

Welcome to the site, and thanks for sharing your info. Your a true engine internal pioneer with what your working on!
 

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Okay, nothing to do with a stock Cruze. Would help to know this.

Subaru's were more popular for experiment aircraft use, maybe because these are horizontally opposed engines, look a bit closer to an aircraft engine. But still required liquid cooling that would add a lot of extra dead weight.

But because it was an automotive engine, and not an aircraft engine, was almost affordable. Ha, not sure, but feel the 1.4L is also a liquid cooled engine. Translated, more problems.

Are you using sea water for cooling? Got a Volvo with a 350 Chevy that they claim is made to their specifications that uses sea water. Have to remember to drain and blow it out before the first frost. Got on boating site, too much grief, people that didn't know they were suppose to do this had some major problems.

Apparently Volvo specializations did not include using a stainless steel block, still cast iron. People using these things in salt water also had their share of problems. We are strictly in fresh water, but still have to watch that temperature gauge due to water weeds that can plug the intake.

Ha, if I had an aircraft engine driving a fan, wouldn't have these problems. But would have to wear a hat with a string on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well all my coolant this the same u run or better
I don't use sea water or swamp water as far as the aircraft engine he stops to cool off and I'm still going
I would like to out this tuned engine and see what it can do
my tune is from trifectia so my trouble are from my boost pressure
lets b real if u shave the head far enough boost pressure will go up (check valve clearance)
and I can still make my own studs if I choose to

I also know most people here see the relationship or understand what I have done to this little kick ass engine
 
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