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Running that high of a boost pressure, you may or may not be able to keep the head gasket together. I looked at some of your earlier posts or the pictures in your profile, where propane was mentioned.

Your fueling with standard 93 Octane gas, or is this the Trifecta E-85 ethanol tune. Or are you really extreme and trying to feed propane or CNG?

I kind of doubt the latter propane fuel. However, would the E-85 tune with the 45-50 lb fuel injectors get you in the same power range, but do it at a lower boost pressure?

Based on your earlier posts, this maybe your second head gasket job? Therefore your looking for studs to make this change easier and potentially stronger?

At least you have a cast Iron block to work with, and you don't have to worry about pulling the threads out of an aluminum block..
 

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well all my coolant this the same u run or better
I don't use sea water or swamp water as far as the aircraft engine he stops to cool off and I'm still going
I would like to out this tuned engine and see what it can do
my tune is from trifectia so my trouble are from my boost pressure
lets b real if u shave the head far enough boost pressure will go up (check valve clearance)
and I can still make my own studs if I choose to

I also know most people here see the relationship or understand what I have done to this little kick ass engine
Stock boost pressure in the little 1.4L engine is already 35 psi peak pressure, need an electronic type pressure gauge with a scope to read it, boost gauge shows average, and what that intake manifold sees is nothing but average. Pressures are jumping up and down all over the place.

Blown head gaskets sounds like a Toyota Supra club I was once in, guys were screwing around with the waste gate valve blowing head gaskets, the weakest link. But not the only thing, throwing rods through the block. Ha, wasn't in that club very long. Was a kit available in 1989 dollars for $10,000.00 to rebuild the entire engine that could take that extra pressure.

One part in particular was an extra heavy head gasket, besides a new crank, piston, rods, just about everything. Kicked that around for awhile, but not really into racing, and can only drive 55 mph anyway.

One thing marketing doesn't like to talk about, the Cruze engine is a consumer grade engine as opposed to an industrial or military grade engine, rather talk about My Link or another piece of junk they add to a vehicle. Only has 12 head bolts that averages out to three per cylinder, this can also be the problem.

One thing you can do with an aircraft you can't do with an air boat, is fly straight down, if that tip of the prop gets anywhere close to the speed of sound, will shatter into a thousand of pieces.

Also brag about a 200K mile engine, if very well taken care of, how about a commercial diesel powered truck that can hit 4 million miles before it requires an overhaul? And can be overhauled. Ever hear of the word, throwaway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I don't think the head gasket is really blown
the first time I tore it down the gasket didn't show any signs of a blow out
I don't think the head bolt r strong enough
this is y am looking for studs
and the symptoms r the same turbo dumping pressure an check engine flashing missing cylinder 2 sometimes
so I'm going to try a ******* fix on it to see if i'm right
I will let ya know in a couple days if it works
 

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Thanks for posting the video. Sure looks like fun!!!
 

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Cylinder leak down test? Actually use one of my adapters from from my compression tester, and hit it with 150 psi with that cylinder at TDC on the firing stroke.

Put a shut off valve and a pressure gauge in series with the adapter and can time the leak down, if quick, open that valve, can hear and feel if it going out the exhaust, intake, adjacent cylinders, crank case, or into the cooling system.

Course a lot easier when they had timing marks, more for the history books to find TDC, and has to be a TDC or else the piston will go down. Do this by making my own. Take an old spark plug, drill the insides out of it and glue in a wooden dowel, so you can rock the piston back and forth mark those two points and find the center. Take a stiff piece of wire tied to some bolt and bend it at the center. Using pi times the diameter dividing by four can find the other three points for a four cylinder.

Had to do this on a 92 Buick V-6 3.8L, the CAS was mounted on a bracket that appeared to be bent, if this key reference is off, everything is off, and all that fancy digital equipment is telling you lies. What are they saving by leaving off timing marks, a nickel? These guys really tee me off at times.

Course with a misfire can be ignition or a bad connection to an injector. An oscilloscope is the best tool to check stuff like these, but those idiots never heard of one, can see pulse trains and spot misfires. Idiots say, use an ohmmeter, but do not test, solid state. Bad enough dealing with other idiots in the world, wouldn't expect this for troubleshooing an engine.

Nothing like going to your Chevy dealer with a low brake pedal, first thing they didn't know rear disc calipers are adjusted by working the hand brake. Then I was told this was not the problem because they weren't getting a code. Really don't have to go to a school for the retarded to find idiots, Chevy dealer is a lot closer.

Ha, ran into another, your rear bumper isn't falling off, ain't getting a code.
 

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Looks like the stock 1.4L cylinder head bolt is an M9-1.25 by 121 mm long with a Torx head. Sure had to learn metric, but can't seem to think metric, closest so called SAE bolt, actually English is a bit over 5/16" X 18, by 4 3/4" long. And this is providing the information I found on the net for the FEL-PRO ES72474 Cruze head bolt is correct, can't believe what you find on the net is always accurate, but does seem to be a little light for a cylinder head bolt. How about a 1/2 or 9/16"?

Always running into problems with this new crap, like sticking a CRS rolled unplated bolt in aluminum snapping the head off. Thinking about the last ones, a water pump or an EGR valve, have to drill these out and don't care if the new bolt is English or metric, but have to go to the next larger size and use either an English or metric tap, a lot cheaper than replacing an aluminum or cast iron casting. Also have to open the hole to accommodate the larger bolt size. Not talking very much, generally a radius of around 3/64" for a good thread cut.

Just saying with a suggestion, rather than looking for new head bolts, in my world, a stud is a headless bolt that requires a nut, look for thread sizes and check both the head and the block to see if it has the "meat" to handle a larger bolt, of course, would have to be torque to yield.

Also hate torx, in production, computer driven impact wrenches on a jig can be perfectly in line with the head to drive them in. Not the case when using a long extension bent over the hood trying to hold it in line while turning it 180 degrees, slightest off angle, and you will strip that head off. They don't give a darn about maintenance, just ease of assembly. A torx sticks in the socket, its only advantage compared to a standard hex head. But I suppose if they had any brains, that they don't, could use a magnet to do the same thing.

Hate working on this new stuff. Used to be would break a wrench than a bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
This is how I fixed the head trouble I had
Replaced them with stock bolt torque to spec
Run the dog crap out of to for 2 hrs
Removed one at a time and torqued to spec engine was still hot its been close
to 2 yrs now and no trouble so far
My boost pressure is still in the high 20's (28)
She still gives head turn performance
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The very same bolts
Pulled them one at a time and replaced with new and torque it 10 degrees more
 
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