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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I took apart my door this afternoon to see if heated mirrors were a plug and play option for my 2012 1LT.

The connecter at the mirror end where it plugs into the door harness looks like this:



There are only three wires going to the connector. Five wires are needed for heated mirrors. Taking apart the door panel showed that there are no other sub-harnesses in the door so this means the whole door harness would need to be swapped out in order to get heated mirrors.

Needless to say, I am disappointed. Swapping out the door harness is not an impossible task by any means, but it does add to the cost of adding heated mirrors.

This is assuming the frame-end connector at the door to frame connector block has been universally pre-wired for heated/non-heated configuration.
 

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:( Well that's lame, but good to know. That's one of the features I miss the most.

Heck, they're becoming standard on a lot of cars these days (like the 2013 1LT even).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Today I took apart the door to frame connector block and checked the number of pins at either end. The door connector has 15 wires, while the frame end connecter has 17 pins.

Door end of the connecter showing missing wires #27 and #28:



Other side showing missing wires:



Frame end connecter showing the unused two extra pins:



This is somewhat good news in that, theoretically, you should be able to replace the door wiring harness with one made for heated mirrors, add the heated mirrors, and it should work. Finally, don't forget the fuses (#60 and #61) in the engine bay fuse block:



For some reason, my fuse block has a 7.5 amp fuse in #60 spot, even though it is not used.

GM Parts Direct shows eight different harnesses, four for the drivers side door, and four for the passenger side door. Checking between the LTZ and LT versions showed the same info, btw.

These are the drivers side harness options:

[ 16 ] BODY HARDWARE / FRONT DOOR / LOCK & HARDWARE / Harness
harness w/keyless entry, 1st design Left
MSRPOnline Price
$121.29$71.92

[ 16 ] BODY HARDWARE / FRONT DOOR / LOCK & HARDWARE / Harness
harness w/keyless entry, 2nd design Left
MSRPOnline Price
$0.00N/A

[ 16 ] BODY HARDWARE / FRONT DOOR / LOCK & HARDWARE / Harness
harness w/o keyless entry, 1st design Left
MSRPOnline Price
$97.44$57.76

[ 16 ] BODY HARDWARE / FRONT DOOR / LOCK & HARDWARE / Harness
harness w/o keyless entry, 2nd design Left
MSRPOnline Price
$97.44$57.76
Anyone care to take a guess which one is the correct harness for the heated mirror option?
So.... who's up to being the guinea pig? Heated mirrors will be your reward! :th_coolio:
 

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I gotta ask. Assuming you get the correct door harness installed, will the BCM recognize the presence of the heated mirrors and turn them on. If just pressing the rear window defogger button also turns on the mirror heaters (as described in the OM on page 2-17), that would explain why there is a fuse in #60 already and then #61 is required for the mirrors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I gotta ask. Assuming you get the correct door harness installed, will the BCM recognize the presence of the heated mirrors and turn them on. If just pressing the rear window defogger button also turns on the mirror heaters (as described in the OM on page 2-17), that would explain why there is a fuse in #60 already and then #61 is required for the mirrors.
Good question. Would GM have gotten that technical with the BCM programming? I dunno. I'll try quizzing the parts guy at my local dealer this week and see if he can figure out which harness is for heated mirrors. Then depending on cost, order just one harness and one heated mirror, and try it.

The owners manual, in the fuses section, does state that fuses 60 and 61 are for the heated mirrors. Fuse 28 (J Case Fuse) is for rear defrost.

Best way to be sure of this is pull fuse #60 and see if the rear defrost still works. :)
 

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Yeah, I saw #28 and it made me wonder why you had #60 installed. Is the rear window defogger timed or does it stay on as long as the button is on? Hondas are timed, my Mazda stays on as long as the button is on.

Of course there's #63 - Rear Window Sensor What's that for?????

Then there's #15 - Rear Wiper and #66 - Rear Washer. When do we get to use those? Just kidding, not trying to hijack the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it's timed, I wonder if it's possible the BCM is involved?
If so, as long as the rear defrost and heated mirrors are on the same circuit, then it shouldn't matter. Both are turned on by the press of one switch, so it would make sense they'd be on the same circuit. Pressing the rear defrost button early shuts it off, so everything is controlled by the press of that switch.

My old '02 Impala had the same set-up. Rear defrost button turned on both, and both shut off at the same time when the "timer" ran out.
 

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One last feeble thought and then I'm packing it in for today. Fuse #63 - Rear Window Sensor. It might be a temperature sensor that prevents the heater circuit from overheating. The thing may not be timed at all, it just heats the window until it is warm enough to be defrosted. Thus, the BCM would not need to be involved. Sorry for the blathering, but the new auto electronics fascinates me as an old software engineer. I find it interesting what is "plug-n-play and what isn't on these new cars.
 

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As I've inquired about on other threads, I would LOVE to get my hands on a schematic for our cars. Without that it's a guessing game.

To the OP, THANK YOU for doing this and sharing what you've found.

One idea I have to figure out if coding or more is necessary is......

Take a VOM and see if you get 12V at those 2 extra wires when you activate the rear defroster..........Be cautious though because those wires might not be for heated mirrors but rather collision avoidance or something else. They could possibly be can-bus or data wires of some kind. That beings said be very careful if you decide to probe them.

A typical indicator to tell if they're data wires is to look back a bit on the harness. If they're twisted together in a spiral they're most likely data wires.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One last feeble thought and then I'm packing it in for today. Fuse #63 - Rear Window Sensor. It might be a temperature sensor that prevents the heater circuit from overheating. The thing may not be timed at all, it just heats the window until it is warm enough to be defrosted. Thus, the BCM would not need to be involved. Sorry for the blathering, but the new auto electronics fascinates me as an old software engineer. I find it interesting what is "plug-n-play and what isn't on these new cars.
Interesting thought, so I looked at my original (larger) picture that I took of the engine bay fuse block. You can't tell which is fuse #63 from the picture earlier in this thread, but it is the empty spot two places below fuse #60/61.

So, the answer is no to the temperature sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As I've inquired about on other threads, I would LOVE to get my hands on a schematic for our cars. Without that it's a guessing game.
I haven't found a schematic yet, but I have been looking through this:

http://fast-store.com:33180/captiva/tis/EN/Documents_2012/Cruze/start_Cruze.html

It is the European Cruze service manual found at this link: http://fast-store.com:33180/captiva/tis/EN/start_Cruze-my.html

To the OP, THANK YOU for doing this and sharing what you've found.

One idea I have to figure out if coding or more is necessary is......

Take a VOM and see if you get 12V at those 2 extra wires when you activate the rear defroster..........Be cautious though because those wires might not be for heated mirrors but rather collision avoidance or something else. They could possibly be can-bus or data wires of some kind. That beings said be very careful if you decide to probe them.

A typical indicator to tell if they're data wires is to look back a bit on the harness. If they're twisted together in a spiral they're most likely data wires.

Thanks again!
In the service manual above, I found the pin-out for the door connector, and it seems to match pretty well with our US connector.

Pin-out here: http://fast-store.com:33180/captiva/tis/EN/Documents_2012/Cruze/SM-T/92549070.en.html

27
0.5 GY
745
Left Front Door Ajar Switch Signal (without AED or AXG)
27
0.5 GY
745
Left Front Door Ajar Switch Signal (without AED or AXG)
28
0.5 BN/YE
2267
Mirror Heating Element Control
28
0.5 BN/YE
2267
Mirror Heating Element Control

Notice pin 28 is for the heated mirror. However, the European Cruze shows Left Front Door Ajar for pin 27. It doesn't match up with my 1LT, as my door ajar warning works and pin 27 is not used in my door harness. Another mystery to solve, I guess.
 

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Thanks for the link. I did a quick look up for heated seats. Looks to me at a quick glance it in fact is controlled via the canbus.........
 

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And I might add the heated mirrors look like they do in fact run off the rear defogger relay. No logic involved here. Really, you should only have to add one wire though your door to make this work. The +12 you'd have to run. The -12 you could simply get inside the door itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Today I confirmed that there is indeed voltage present at pin 28 of the connector when I turned on the rear defrost.

With rear defrost off:



Rear defrost on:



Pulling fuse 60 resulted in no voltage at pin 28, whether rear defrost was turned on or off. So, fuse 60 is driver side heated mirror, and fuse 61 must be passenger side heated mirror.
 

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Good work! But why did your car come with a fuse in #60 if it doesn't have heated mirrors?
 

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Good work! But why did your car come with a fuse in #60 if it doesn't have heated mirrors?

Thanks for checking.

Jim Frye, if you look at the under hood fuse box the car comes with several relays and fuses installed for accessories not on the car.

To me that's a huge plus, that SHOULD mean the wiring / pins are placed in the fuse box making mods easier.

Some cars if you don't have the option they don't run the wire to the fuse box, body harness etc.

The only reason I can see for them doing this is to make it hard for a person to add factory options easily therefore forcing you to purchase a car with the overprice *at times* options. They certainly can't be saving much money by eliminating a few wires from a huge wiring harness loom. In fact I bet it cost them MORE to stock several variations of harnesses vs. just one.
 

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It was indirectly mentioned, but you may want to see if you can find the terminal pins that are used in the door and mirror connectors, and rather than buyer a new harness, just make up and run the leads you need and plug them into the appropriate connectors.

I recently purchased a self dimming Cruze mirror off of ebay and also found that I need to run a 12+ line to the mirror connector along with a reverse input. My task is to find the appropriate terminal pins for the mirror connector. I know that there are people out there who have them, I just need to locate them.
 

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Silver Streak, I was just going to edit my post and say....

Now where to find replacement pins.....I know VW sells them as harness repair pins or wires or some crap.....surely gm does too.

If not an adventure to the wrecking yard should yield a smashed door that you could take the harness or salvage some pins from. They have got to use the same pins on more than just the Cruze door harness...........

Adding factory options properly is fun! *to me*

I really hate hacking options in. Love to do it the right way.

Has anyone tried to pop their painted cover off the mirror? Would make buying a used OEM mirror much easier if the cover is easily swappable without damaging them.
 
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