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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I popped the hood tonight and looking at the neg terminal there was a lot of corrosion. The car starts fine. Just seems to be missing a little power as of late. The reason I popped the hood. I was going to look at my plugs with 73K then I noticed the corrosion. Have not had a chance to clean the terminal yet. The weather has been rather hot and muggy as of the last couple of weeks. Should I clean and see if it comes back? Any ideas what may be going on.
 

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I would clean it and watch for it to return. It's possible your battery is starting to leak so be careful cleaning this as there may be battery acid in there.
 

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Leaking battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I disconnected the battery terminal, cleaned it and did notice a little moisture. When I reconnected, HVAC did not work. rather than go thru fuses, I disconnected battery again, turned the terminal and heard a little popping and HVAC worked again and I had to reset stereo clock. I think after 3 yrs maybe it is time to replace the battery. Still seems to work but don't want to get stranded.
 

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turned the terminal and heard a little popping
I'll second changing out the battery. Batteries can have hydrogen in them. A "little popping" could be a spark. Let's just say you don't want to be too close when spark meets hydrogen. Nor will you like the clean-up.
 

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Check your positive side as well - just in case. The seals on the posts are probably leaking. It could be caused by lifting the battery by the terminals, over tightening the cables, or just poor manufacturing. Probably not a bad idea to replace the battery because eventually enough gas will leak out and then it won't hold a charge. And, the corrosion can ruin the plastic on the cables and around the battery terminals.

It is possible to clean the battery with baking soda and water and then put wheel bearing grease on the terminals and cable ends to stop the air from interacting with the gasses to form corrosion.

They also sell those kits with the felt washers and corrosion inhibitor. The felt washers are supposed to stop the gasses that are leaking out of the terminals from interacting with the lead.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC

That is what I use. I am still on my first can for what seems like forever. I use it about twice a year on 3+ cars and I have never had any terminal get dirty on me. Sister-in-law has some severe corrosion on her battery and sprayed that on it and the the corrosion just about disappeared in front my eyes. She hasn't had any since. Good Luck.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC

That is what I use. I am still on my first can for what seems like forever. I use it about twice a year on 3+ cars and I have never had any terminal get dirty on me. Sister-in-law has some severe corrosion on her battery and sprayed that on it and the the corrosion just about disappeared in front my eyes. She hasn't had any since. Good Luck.
I'd consider that product although it can't be sold in California. Yet it goes further to say it can't be sold on Catalina Island which is 26 miles out to Sea and most certainly California!

  • Corrosion is the leading cause of hard starting and battery failure
  • Not VOC Compliant for California & OTC
  • Provides a lead-free soft protective coating
  • This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
If you buy a new battery, get an AGM vs the normal lead acid. Much less prone to leakage.
Thanks for bringing this up. I used to have one back in the 90s. Didn't have to worry about leaking or back then checking the "water levels". It was a battery from Nation wise auto Parts called powertron (first AGM battery). It was universal size like the old 71 series and was both top and side post for either GM or otherwise back in the 80s/90s. I never imagined a car battery close to $200. Sears has an AGM Diehard battery for 131. Like my clutch itwill be new no more worries for a while.
 

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Yep, time to replace it. You said 3 years - if you're still under the B2B this will be covered.
 

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Sears has an AGM Diehard battery for 131. Like my clutch itwill be new no more worries for a while.

I think I paid $165 for my Sears Diehard group 47 AGM battery 3 years ago when I put it in my cruze. Noticed their prices can fluctuate +/- $50 even days apart. I would snag that up ASAP at that price. Think the Sears AGM was only like $10-20 more than their standard group 47 battery that's a replacement size for the gas cruze.

Its been while since I replaced the battery in my cruze, but it was very easy to do. There is a metal plate on the front edge of battery that you remove, once you unhook the cables I slid the battery out the front of the tray. This is only possible because the tray is much longer(can fit a larger battery) so their is enough room to move it out from under plastic cover that has some wires in it on top the battery. I'm sure you could unhook and remove that, but I figured why mess with it if I didn't have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I didn't think about the B2B warranty since I have 73K on the car. Just got back from Sam's 144 installed 3yr AGM Duracell battery(134 + tax). They had a Acid battery for 105 but I thought about the leakage more so I spent the extra @29 along with another yr on the warranty. I know it is not hard to do but I was just as well to let them do it.

I went Sears first and the 131 battery is on line only 184 in the store not installed. (And they wonder why their auto dept went "south"). When asked about installing, they are too busy to do it today.
Autozone was @ 170 for an AGM battery.

All and all can't complain about 144 then. Done for the next 3 years so.

Somehow the car feels like it has a little more power also. Possible bc of bad battery?
 

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Just got back from Sam's 144 installed 3yr AGM Duracell battery(134 + tax). I went Sears first and the 131 battery is on line only 184 in the store not installed.
The Diehard and the Duracell batteries are made int he same factory. However Sears has stricter standards when it comes to all stuff they sell, so Sears stuff has to meet a certain level of output or those ones get sold under other brands. I know this because I 15+ years ago i worked in factory making Sears shop vacs as well as Home Depot Rigid vacs. Low test Vacuum electric motors all went into the ridged vacs.

I would not let Sears or any other low paid tech shop touch my car even for a battery. Have heard horror stories about batteries being hooked up backwards and computers getting fired. So easy to change no reason at all to let them do it. Think I took me with my father watching(handing me tools) about 10 minutes.
 

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