I'm thinking the same, although my knowledge about transmissions and clutches are limited. Why do you need an odometer picture? I can make one of course, I'm just curious how's that gonna help..At 100K miles it could also be a sign that the clutch pad needs to be replaced. Also, do you have a odometer picture?
The OEM synchromesh is too thin. The AMSOil synchromesh is a thicker fluid and generally makes the gear box work smoother. It does change how the clutch feels but it doesn't do anything for a worn out clutch.Why do you expect changing transmission oil to reflect the way clutch works ? It may improve shifting but not clutch "feel". Earlier Cruzes (2010-2012) are known to have an agressive clutch return feeling (or whatever is the right word for it). After some miles you will develope skills... and muscles in your foot as well![]()
I'm not trying to improve the clutch with the fluid, that's silly. I'm trying to improve the shifting. The clutch works as intended, it's just heavy. Nothing to be done with that..although I may get it replaced sometime in the future or if it turns into a bigger issue.Why do you expect changing transmission oil to reflect the way clutch works ? It may improve shifting but not clutch "feel". Earlier Cruzes (2010-2012) are known to have an agressive clutch return feeling (or whatever is the right word for it). After some miles you will develope skills... and muscles in your foot as well![]()
The dark color may be anti-corrosion agents the GM puts in the transmission during manufacture. I'm hoping you put 2.25-2.4 qts back in.I'm not trying to improve the clutch with the fluid, that's silly. I'm trying to improve the shifting. The clutch works as intended, it's just heavy. Nothing to be done with that..although I may get it replaced sometime in the future or if it turns into a bigger issue.
The gears are another story. I drained it and as I suspected it, it was never changed and it was dark brownish, almost black. Remind you, this car was bought with 95,000 miles.
I put a new, but generic gear fluid in it, but shifting through gears is still too rough, although the new fluid did improve, not to mention, the fluid that was in there, wasn't even enough (about 1.5 quart came out).
What do you mean? The slave cylinder? When I changed the brake/hydraulic fluid, and I was pumping the clutch while pushing out the fluid through the bleeder, the clutch didn't feel heavy at all. So, from the pedal on to the bleeder, it's working as it should.Odd. Mine's very easy to drive. Makes me think that maybe the clearances in the clutch hydraulics are too tight?
Well, unfortuantely I am just not a great mechanic..or at least not brave enough to experiment or to buy anything, that I'm not sure of if I needed. I had a fair share of buying stuff for my previous cars, spending hundreds of dollars, only to figure out, it wasn't needed, it wasn't broken.I'm thinking the master/slave cylinder rather than pressure plate. Typically if it were the pressure plate, it would not want to disengage, you'd be grinding gears unless you stuff the pedal into the carpet, and it would just generally be a chore to drive. So, if you don't feel that the clutch bites at the very extremes of pedal travel, I'd probably investigate the hydraulics.
On the other hand, if you do feel that the clutch bites somewhere around the extremes of pedal travel (mine starts to grab around 1/2, and is almost fully engaged by 2/3 up from the floor), a clutch/pressure plate replacement is probably in your future.