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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone, I'm loosing coolant and I can't find the source, I lost about 1 liter in the past 2 weeks. I can't see from where is leaking from the top, the hoses attached to the coolant reservoir seems to be okay, radiator seems okay too. The only place I did not check is the water pump. My CTD has 140,000km and really it's not there yet to replace the timing belt and the water pump.
Are there any other places I should be aware of or being known as weak spots for coolant leaks as reported by others? thanks again :)
 

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Well, if the diesel cooling systems are like the gas engine ones, the overflow bottle is a weak link. I have seen many people with a leak there taking them a long time to find. They leak at hose connections and crack about dead center on the BOTTOM of the tank. Also, a good way to check for a leaking water pump is to drive it at highways speeds for about 30 minutes. Then once its been at normal operating temperature and driven a little hard, check the underbody moldings and structure for coolant. If you look directly at the water pump it can bee very hard to see.
 

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I was losing coolant around the same mileage and it turned out to be seepage at the OEM water pump pulley, you cannot see without removing the timing belt cover. I did not have any visible external leaks or smell either. When I highlighted the coolant loss to the dealer they verbally diagnosed it as normal and took no action.

Since replacement I haven't added any coolant and that was probably 60k miles ago at this point. If you visually checked the hoses / connections it might be worth the hassle of removing the cover.
 
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Look on the back of the engine near the oil filter cap, there are coolant lines there that go to the oil cooler assembly. They like to start leaking or just outright break. That seems to be pretty common at higher mileages. I second the water pump as well, other than a slight smell you might not visibly see a leak. I had that happen on mine. I can't speak to the surge tank cracking, I have not noticed a problem with mine and I don't have a gas version to compare it to.
 

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"Aggressive tires causing vibrations which is causing coolant to splash out through the pcv."

I **** you not.
I wouldn't have the words to respond to a clown boy statement like that, I would probably just leave. 🤬
 

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I wouldn't have the words to respond to a clown boy statement like that, I would probably just leave. 🤬
Yeahhh. Unfortuantely dealerships have a monopoly on anything warranty.

To them I am just a rich kid (seriously I look 15)..... And I have no problem with that. There is no sense in arguing with someone who has already decided to invalidate anything you say.

What they don't know (at least not right away) is I have connections above them.... So..... I don't really care about their opinion. If I say something needs replacing it gets replaced.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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On the Diesel, the #1 source of coolant leaks is the coolant lines to the oil cooler on the back side of of the engine. That's where I'd start.
I'll need to check ours if/when I get our car back, as I do smell the faintest whiff of coolant after shutting the car off. Level looks fine.
 

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I'll need to check ours if/when I get our car back, as I do smell the faintest whiff of coolant after shutting the car off. Level looks fine.
I’ll have to check. My 15 smells normal. I also do coolant flushes every 3 years. I hate coolant line and block corrosion.
 
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I'll need to check ours if/when I get our car back, as I do smell the faintest whiff of coolant after shutting the car off. Level looks fine.
Mine would lose about a quart of coolant per 15k miles from about 50k until 170k. Then around 170k, it rapidly escalated to a quart per 100 miles over the course of a couple months, which is when I began to smell coolant for the first time after shutting the car off. When I was replacing the lines, the ribbed plastic hose crumbled under the pressure of my hands, leaving only the end connectors behind. I saved the end connectors so that when the replacement lines eventually start to leak, I can clamp some rubber fuel hose to the old connectors to create permanent lines that won't need to be replaced again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
On the Diesel, the #1 source of coolant leaks is the coolant lines to the oil cooler on the back side of of the engine. That's where I'd start.
do you have a picture of the oil cooler so I'd have an idea where to look at? thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I found the source of the leak, it's indeed the water pump, I attached few pics here.
Now how long can I drive in this condition, I really want to do the timing belt and the water pump in the next 30,000km or so, can I?


Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 

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+1 on the oil cooler line. It is corrugated Plastic. Yes Plastic. It gets brittle and cracks if you get unlucky it shatters and dumps all of your coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
+1 on the oil cooler line. It is corrugated Plastic. Yes Plastic. It gets brittle and cracks if you get unlucky it shatters and dumps all of your coolant.
do you have a picture of the oil cooler, I will have to check that too.
 
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I believe that mileage is almost exactly the recommended timing belt mileage(maybe a couple of KMs shy ;)). I'd start there.
Timing belt would be due 10yr/160k km, so definitely close enough at 8yr/140k km to just go ahead and do it all. The coolant leak will also compromise the integrity of the belt if the coolant has been contacting the rubber, so best to get it replaced asap.
 
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