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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I have been browsing this forum a lot and found any good advice previously. I thought I might ask the community for some help with the issue I am having with my vehicle.

I have a Diesel Cruze 2010 automatic.

Only recently this has started, when I accelerate hard (no matter which speed I am at) as soon as the RPM reaches between 3k and 3.5k, the acceleration cuts out immediately. Once that happens the car takes about 2 seconds before it starts being responsive again. The engine never dies, just the acceleration cuts out on high rpm as you are accelerating hard. Now if I were to use manual shift and climb the rpm slowly to above 3500 it has no problems what so ever.

I recently serviced the car prior to noticing this issue (I am not absolutely sure if this issue was present prior to service), I replaced the engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter. I also replaced the ATF oil about 1 month before servicing the engine.

I am quite good with cars, I do all repairs on my own usually. This issue had me.

1. I have checked the turbo and surrounding hoses - no leak evident.
2. Connected an OBD2 and no fault codes are showing.
3. Cleaned out diesel injectors and fuel rail with compress air.
4. Cleaned inlet manifold, throttle body, EGR valve

What do you think could be any other possibilities that causing this issue?
 

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1,013 Posts
Hi guys,

I have been browsing this forum a lot and found any good advice previously. I thought I might ask the community for some help with the issue I am having with my vehicle.

I have a Diesel Cruze 2010 automatic.

Only recently this has started, when I accelerate hard (no matter which speed I am at) as soon as the RPM reaches between 3k and 3.5k, the acceleration cuts out immediately. Once that happens the car takes about 2 seconds before it starts being responsive again. The engine never dies, just the acceleration cuts out on high rpm as you are accelerating hard. Now if I were to use manual shift and climb the rpm slowly to above 3500 it has no problems what so ever.

I recently serviced the car prior to noticing this issue (I am not absolutely sure if this issue was present prior to service), I replaced the engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter. I also replaced the ATF oil about 1 month before servicing the engine.

I am quite good with cars, I do all repairs on my own usually. This issue had me.

1. I have checked the turbo and surrounding hoses - no leak evident.
2. Connected an OBD2 and no fault codes are showing.
3. Cleaned out diesel injectors and fuel rail with compress air.
4. Cleaned inlet manifold, throttle body, EGR valve

What do you think could be any other possibilities that causing this issue?
When servicing the car did you unplug any sensors (maybe they were in your way)? If you did, you also need to do a battery cable reset as the car will still think the sensors are unplugged (even if you plugged them back in). This happened to me once and the car threw no codes or anything but the car severely lacked power even at full throttle it wouldn't go over 4000rpm. Once I figured out the issue and undid the negative battery cable and redid it a few minutes later, the car was perfectly normal again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When servicing the car did you unplug any sensors (maybe they were in your way)? If you did, you also need to do a battery cable reset as the car will still think the sensors are unplugged (even if you plugged them back in). This happened to me once and the car threw no codes or anything but the car severely lacked power even at full throttle it wouldn't go over 4000rpm. Once I figured out the issue and undid the negative battery cable and redid it a few minutes later, the car was perfectly normal again.
Thats definitely something I did not try. Sometimes the easiest things can be best solutions. I am going to try it tonight and give it a go tomorrow. Hopefully thats the culprit.
 

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When servicing the car did you unplug any sensors (maybe they were in your way)? If you did, you also need to do a battery cable reset as the car will still think the sensors are unplugged (even if you plugged them back in). This happened to me once and the car threw no codes or anything but the car severely lacked power even at full throttle it wouldn't go over 4000rpm. Once I figured out the issue and undid the negative battery cable and redid it a few minutes later, the car was perfectly normal again.
Thats definitely something I did not try. Sometimes the easiest things can be best solutions. I am going to try it tonight and give it a go tomorrow. Hopefully thats the culprit.
hopefully! Easy fixes are always nice. Good luck to ya.
 
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