1 - 14 of 35 Posts
The Radiator fan don't work until high pressure gets high enough on the ac. Same manner as it works when your coolant temp gets high enough. Basically only when your sitting at idle. Fan not needed when driving down the road.
Compressor running and high pressure is only 87 - 97. That's your answer right there. You're almost out of freon. High pressure should be around the 250 mark. The reason it's bouncing around is because the low pressure switch is cycling the compressor. Low pressure too low. That be my guess anyways but I'm not there to see what you got going on.
I would slap on some gauges to verify though. Make sure the sensor to the computer is reading accurate.
An accurate diagnosis of the system requires knowing what both the low AND the high are doing. Harbor Freight sells a good gauge kit for $60. I bought my last set on the july 4th sale 25% off. There are adaptors fair cheap at any store that sells freon in those cans. I buy the 30 lb. cylinders. 75% cheaper then buying enough cans to equal 1 cylinder. But I have a NAPA connection.
Since you have a high pressure gauge with your ethos. A kit of gauge and can will work for the low side,.
You'll have to let me know the price of ethos at christmas time this year. I"d like to have a more comprehensive software package over the usual basic stuff commonly available.
I bought toad. It's cheap. And a few happy campers on youtube but I"m not seeing it with the software. See what happens when the obd2 connector arrives. But I have a feeling it was a waste of $130.
Compressor running and high pressure is only 87 - 97. That's your answer right there. You're almost out of freon. High pressure should be around the 250 mark. The reason it's bouncing around is because the low pressure switch is cycling the compressor. Low pressure too low. That be my guess anyways but I'm not there to see what you got going on.
I would slap on some gauges to verify though. Make sure the sensor to the computer is reading accurate.
An accurate diagnosis of the system requires knowing what both the low AND the high are doing. Harbor Freight sells a good gauge kit for $60. I bought my last set on the july 4th sale 25% off. There are adaptors fair cheap at any store that sells freon in those cans. I buy the 30 lb. cylinders. 75% cheaper then buying enough cans to equal 1 cylinder. But I have a NAPA connection.
Since you have a high pressure gauge with your ethos. A kit of gauge and can will work for the low side,.
You'll have to let me know the price of ethos at christmas time this year. I"d like to have a more comprehensive software package over the usual basic stuff commonly available.
I bought toad. It's cheap. And a few happy campers on youtube but I"m not seeing it with the software. See what happens when the obd2 connector arrives. But I have a feeling it was a waste of $130.
If you find your gauges or buy some gauges. A full charged system will sit at around 110 on both hi and low when it's sitting.Yes, I reset the codes and I have not seen them return. I also haven't spotted a leak anywhere.
Yeah, I have been looking in my garage for my AC gauges but haven't used them in so long and cannot remember if I loaned them out or something... my Z28 doesn't have air and I am used to it that way.. so I suppose I will have to buy a new set of gauges to really continue diagnosis. Going to lift it up and look for leaks again and verify the AC High Pressure sensor is working correctly with the AllData manual I just downloaded.
Any idea if the compressor control valve can stop the AC from working, even if the clutch is turning? Seems like this would cause damage to the compressor since it would be running dry/choked off.
/edit - Oh and if you PM me I will tell you what the price was during the promotion. I can put you in touch with my vendor if you wish.
What's your high pressure reading on your ethos with the car having been off for a couple of hours????????
When it's running. Fully charged will clock in around 250 on hi and you should have 30 - 35 on low. If everything is working properly.
If you're that low though, I'd go ahead and have it sucked out with a machine. Then vacuum it and fully charge it.
If you have access to a scale to measure the amount and label on your car still to tell you how much. That way you know how much to put in. YOu should end up around the 250 mark. They always end up around that mark. No matter what car or brand.
FIRST. If you have a leak detector or can come up with one. Check the evaporator. Turn fan on high and sniff the vents. WITH CAR ENGINE OFF.
Either you forgot to open the valves on the quick disconnects if you have them or your gauges are broken. The hoses themselves also have shrader valves. Something is wrong with your gauges.
Here's a link to explain how the compressor control valve works.
https://macsworldwide.wordpress.com/2013/05/29/variable-displacement-ac-compressor/
Here's a link to explain how the compressor control valve works.
https://macsworldwide.wordpress.com/2013/05/29/variable-displacement-ac-compressor/
Make up your mind.
Is the compressor running or not? LOL
Cuz it can't run without at least 50 psi on both hi and lo.
The low pressure switch kicks on at 50 and shuts off at 10.
You said it was running. But now you say nothing comes out with the push of a pin.
Is the compressor running or not? LOL
Cuz it can't run without at least 50 psi on both hi and lo.
The low pressure switch kicks on at 50 and shuts off at 10.
You said it was running. But now you say nothing comes out with the push of a pin.
When charging ac and diagnosing pressures. Engine should be at 2000 rpm.
What does ethos read at 2000? shut car off for 10 minutes and what does ethos read with engine off?
What does ethos read at 2000? shut car off for 10 minutes and what does ethos read with engine off?
That's what it sounds like. Leak and electrical issue.
The compressor shouldn't be running though.
The compressor shouldn't be running though.
I"m not sure if the low pressure sends a signal to read yet. I haven't seen anything so far. I just recently found out about the hi pressure readout.
Freon contains pag oil. Pag oil contains the dye. So you should see green somewhere like a coolant leak. If you're finding it under the caps. The shrader valves are a very common leak. Luckily you can replace those without replacing the entire hose assembly.
1 thing i would try is disconnecting the hi pressure readout and seeing if anything changes on ethos. AND, if your compressor still runs. That outta tell you if it's the switch or a short somewhere. I haven't looked at your video yet.
As far as i can tell about the variable displacement. It's all done through that controller valve. I posted the link on earlier.
I"m just not seeing anyway to trap freon somewhere where the compressor would run. Hi pressure reads. Yet nothing comes out of charging ports.
Freon contains pag oil. Pag oil contains the dye. So you should see green somewhere like a coolant leak. If you're finding it under the caps. The shrader valves are a very common leak. Luckily you can replace those without replacing the entire hose assembly.
1 thing i would try is disconnecting the hi pressure readout and seeing if anything changes on ethos. AND, if your compressor still runs. That outta tell you if it's the switch or a short somewhere. I haven't looked at your video yet.
As far as i can tell about the variable displacement. It's all done through that controller valve. I posted the link on earlier.
I"m just not seeing anyway to trap freon somewhere where the compressor would run. Hi pressure reads. Yet nothing comes out of charging ports.
GOOD JOB on the video.
I see THREE things wrong in that video. Compressor isn't supposed to be running. Hi pressure not reading. AND. Evaporator temp reading 39 degrees with no freon.
If your vacuum didn't leak. I'd say shrader valves would be your likely leak in the charge ports.
If you noticed your evaporator temp. It said 39 degrees. That's not possible as you got no freon in the system. Combine that with your constant false hi pressure reading. And your compressor running. You've got TWO false sensor readings. And 1 electrical issue.
Without a wiring diagram to be sure. I'm gonna say your problem is in the ECM/PCM or whatever it's called on these cars. Or your BCM.
Don't run the compressor anymore. You're going to burn it up. You can tell what's going on by just having the key on. The clutch will engage. Just look at teh clutch instead of running the compressor bone dry. Not till you get freon in it anyways.
I think what i do if i were you. Change teh shrader valves. Both hi and low. Vacuum and filler her up to 250 pounds on the high side GAUGE. That's 22.4 ounces if you go by cans. Not the ethos. And call it good. So you'll have freon in teh compressor.
Change the negative battery cable like what keeps on getting recommended. If you haven't done that already. If the problem still persists. Start looking for the AC WIRING DIAGRAM. And looking for ecms or bcms from wrecking yards if that's what the wiring diagram points too. Obviously check the 2 sensors first before condeming the ecm/bcm.
I"m gonna go out on a limb though and say you've got 1 circuit causing 3 failures. Which COULD be the module. But hopefully it's a battery cable issue. Ecm/bcm not getting a good ground.
Those 2 lights on the dash I"m guessing are trouble codes in the ecm.
I see THREE things wrong in that video. Compressor isn't supposed to be running. Hi pressure not reading. AND. Evaporator temp reading 39 degrees with no freon.
If your vacuum didn't leak. I'd say shrader valves would be your likely leak in the charge ports.
If you noticed your evaporator temp. It said 39 degrees. That's not possible as you got no freon in the system. Combine that with your constant false hi pressure reading. And your compressor running. You've got TWO false sensor readings. And 1 electrical issue.
Without a wiring diagram to be sure. I'm gonna say your problem is in the ECM/PCM or whatever it's called on these cars. Or your BCM.
Don't run the compressor anymore. You're going to burn it up. You can tell what's going on by just having the key on. The clutch will engage. Just look at teh clutch instead of running the compressor bone dry. Not till you get freon in it anyways.
I think what i do if i were you. Change teh shrader valves. Both hi and low. Vacuum and filler her up to 250 pounds on the high side GAUGE. That's 22.4 ounces if you go by cans. Not the ethos. And call it good. So you'll have freon in teh compressor.
Change the negative battery cable like what keeps on getting recommended. If you haven't done that already. If the problem still persists. Start looking for the AC WIRING DIAGRAM. And looking for ecms or bcms from wrecking yards if that's what the wiring diagram points too. Obviously check the 2 sensors first before condeming the ecm/bcm.
I"m gonna go out on a limb though and say you've got 1 circuit causing 3 failures. Which COULD be the module. But hopefully it's a battery cable issue. Ecm/bcm not getting a good ground.
Those 2 lights on the dash I"m guessing are trouble codes in the ecm.
I don't know anything about the safety valve. Other then what i read on it today. I haven't had to screw around much with these newer systems yet. I retired 20 years ago so i learn a lot of new things on this forum. I keep my hands wet with ac problems. But just the basic stuff. Nothing sophisticated. Specially on the newer cars. This forum is pretty much my only learning tool these days. And teaching where i can. Just like everyone else.
If you charged yesterday and empty today. You've got a leak somewhere so anything is possible. From what i read about the safety valve. I don't think that's going to be your problem. Other then maybe a leak. But it's possible. You've definitely got electrical issues.
At this point. I'd be trying to get my hands on some troubleshooting trees. It's what the dealer would be doing. Or SHOULD be doing. If they were to work on your car.
I'd also be looking for the ac wiring diagram. Autozone has some guides but they apparently aren't carrying the cruze. Or possible not updating the system anymore for anything.
I fixed a 96 cherokee couple weeks ago. Her particular electrical issue turned out to be the pcm grounding out the compressor relay. Basically causing a short and overloading the relay. Bought a haynes for the girl owner but it didn't have the ac diagram. Autozone did luckily. So you might look into chilton. One of them also has a monthly charge for websight. I'm thinking i might subscribe to see if it might be of any help to this forum.
If you charged yesterday and empty today. You've got a leak somewhere so anything is possible. From what i read about the safety valve. I don't think that's going to be your problem. Other then maybe a leak. But it's possible. You've definitely got electrical issues.
At this point. I'd be trying to get my hands on some troubleshooting trees. It's what the dealer would be doing. Or SHOULD be doing. If they were to work on your car.
I'd also be looking for the ac wiring diagram. Autozone has some guides but they apparently aren't carrying the cruze. Or possible not updating the system anymore for anything.
I fixed a 96 cherokee couple weeks ago. Her particular electrical issue turned out to be the pcm grounding out the compressor relay. Basically causing a short and overloading the relay. Bought a haynes for the girl owner but it didn't have the ac diagram. Autozone did luckily. So you might look into chilton. One of them also has a monthly charge for websight. I'm thinking i might subscribe to see if it might be of any help to this forum.
Since you unplugged the high pressure and ethos dropped to zero. You could probably try a new switch. $30. And go from there on your electrical. Or pick one from a junk yard to try in case it's not the problem.
Let's not forget the negative battery cable. Seems like a lot of people have problems on this forum that seem to get fixed with a new cable. AC is one of them along with those 2 lights on your dash.
Let's not forget the negative battery cable. Seems like a lot of people have problems on this forum that seem to get fixed with a new cable. AC is one of them along with those 2 lights on your dash.
Amazon isn't the way to go.
Rockauto.com or autozone.
Rockauto.com or autozone.
Grandma wants to know if you got that thing fixed yet? LOL
If you can find it. Unplug the evap temp sensor and see what ethos reads. I"m betting it'll stop the compressor from running.
rockauto lists it as a refrigerant temp sensor for $13. I"m thinking it's going to be what used to be called a low pressure switch. The only other sensor is the refrigerant pressure sensor for $27. I'm guessing that's what used to be called hi pressure or pressure fan switch.
Your problems might be simple and just need those 2 switches replaced.
If you can find it. Unplug the evap temp sensor and see what ethos reads. I"m betting it'll stop the compressor from running.
rockauto lists it as a refrigerant temp sensor for $13. I"m thinking it's going to be what used to be called a low pressure switch. The only other sensor is the refrigerant pressure sensor for $27. I'm guessing that's what used to be called hi pressure or pressure fan switch.
Your problems might be simple and just need those 2 switches replaced.
Looking at the diagram and see how it reacts. I think you answered your own question in this paragraph.The AC High pressure sensor is changing while the car is off, power on. I did all the diagnostics and everything passed up until the "Diagnose/Replace B1 AC High Pres Sensor" So the circuit is good, it's either the sensor or the actual PSI on the system is wrong. Don't get why the pressure would be jumping around while the car is off though.
The P0533 S0 is Sensor Circuit High; yet the sensor is reading low and jumping
Diagnostics all pass. Diagnose/replace sensor.
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