HELP! No AC and multiple codes
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https://youtu.be/qXSu8vN55Vw
I cannot find fluorescence under UV on anything under the engine bay, except the outer portion of the caps. Im guessing from checking pressure and filling. Not much on the inside of them. The condenser looks fine, I may have to end up sending a vehicle to the shop for first time ever.
I am done for the night, I am pretty stumped and I am going to read into the system more tomorrow. I don't know much about the new style variable ac compressor, I have only worked with older ones. Is it possible for something to block pressure.. or is the High-Pressure switch lying to me. I cannot read the low-pressure switch from the ethos atleast not that I have seen yet. Might be time to trade this **** thing in.
I cannot find fluorescence under UV on anything under the engine bay, except the outer portion of the caps. Im guessing from checking pressure and filling. Not much on the inside of them. The condenser looks fine, I may have to end up sending a vehicle to the shop for first time ever.
I am done for the night, I am pretty stumped and I am going to read into the system more tomorrow. I don't know much about the new style variable ac compressor, I have only worked with older ones. Is it possible for something to block pressure.. or is the High-Pressure switch lying to me. I cannot read the low-pressure switch from the ethos atleast not that I have seen yet. Might be time to trade this **** thing in.
I"m not sure if the low pressure sends a signal to read yet. I haven't seen anything so far. I just recently found out about the hi pressure readout.
Freon contains pag oil. Pag oil contains the dye. So you should see green somewhere like a coolant leak. If you're finding it under the caps. The shrader valves are a very common leak. Luckily you can replace those without replacing the entire hose assembly.
1 thing i would try is disconnecting the hi pressure readout and seeing if anything changes on ethos. AND, if your compressor still runs. That outta tell you if it's the switch or a short somewhere. I haven't looked at your video yet.
As far as i can tell about the variable displacement. It's all done through that controller valve. I posted the link on earlier.
I"m just not seeing anyway to trap freon somewhere where the compressor would run. Hi pressure reads. Yet nothing comes out of charging ports.
Freon contains pag oil. Pag oil contains the dye. So you should see green somewhere like a coolant leak. If you're finding it under the caps. The shrader valves are a very common leak. Luckily you can replace those without replacing the entire hose assembly.
1 thing i would try is disconnecting the hi pressure readout and seeing if anything changes on ethos. AND, if your compressor still runs. That outta tell you if it's the switch or a short somewhere. I haven't looked at your video yet.
As far as i can tell about the variable displacement. It's all done through that controller valve. I posted the link on earlier.
I"m just not seeing anyway to trap freon somewhere where the compressor would run. Hi pressure reads. Yet nothing comes out of charging ports.
GOOD JOB on the video.
I see THREE things wrong in that video. Compressor isn't supposed to be running. Hi pressure not reading. AND. Evaporator temp reading 39 degrees with no freon.
If your vacuum didn't leak. I'd say shrader valves would be your likely leak in the charge ports.
If you noticed your evaporator temp. It said 39 degrees. That's not possible as you got no freon in the system. Combine that with your constant false hi pressure reading. And your compressor running. You've got TWO false sensor readings. And 1 electrical issue.
Without a wiring diagram to be sure. I'm gonna say your problem is in the ECM/PCM or whatever it's called on these cars. Or your BCM.
Don't run the compressor anymore. You're going to burn it up. You can tell what's going on by just having the key on. The clutch will engage. Just look at teh clutch instead of running the compressor bone dry. Not till you get freon in it anyways.
I think what i do if i were you. Change teh shrader valves. Both hi and low. Vacuum and filler her up to 250 pounds on the high side GAUGE. That's 22.4 ounces if you go by cans. Not the ethos. And call it good. So you'll have freon in teh compressor.
Change the negative battery cable like what keeps on getting recommended. If you haven't done that already. If the problem still persists. Start looking for the AC WIRING DIAGRAM. And looking for ecms or bcms from wrecking yards if that's what the wiring diagram points too. Obviously check the 2 sensors first before condeming the ecm/bcm.
I"m gonna go out on a limb though and say you've got 1 circuit causing 3 failures. Which COULD be the module. But hopefully it's a battery cable issue. Ecm/bcm not getting a good ground.
Those 2 lights on the dash I"m guessing are trouble codes in the ecm.
I see THREE things wrong in that video. Compressor isn't supposed to be running. Hi pressure not reading. AND. Evaporator temp reading 39 degrees with no freon.
If your vacuum didn't leak. I'd say shrader valves would be your likely leak in the charge ports.
If you noticed your evaporator temp. It said 39 degrees. That's not possible as you got no freon in the system. Combine that with your constant false hi pressure reading. And your compressor running. You've got TWO false sensor readings. And 1 electrical issue.
Without a wiring diagram to be sure. I'm gonna say your problem is in the ECM/PCM or whatever it's called on these cars. Or your BCM.
Don't run the compressor anymore. You're going to burn it up. You can tell what's going on by just having the key on. The clutch will engage. Just look at teh clutch instead of running the compressor bone dry. Not till you get freon in it anyways.
I think what i do if i were you. Change teh shrader valves. Both hi and low. Vacuum and filler her up to 250 pounds on the high side GAUGE. That's 22.4 ounces if you go by cans. Not the ethos. And call it good. So you'll have freon in teh compressor.
Change the negative battery cable like what keeps on getting recommended. If you haven't done that already. If the problem still persists. Start looking for the AC WIRING DIAGRAM. And looking for ecms or bcms from wrecking yards if that's what the wiring diagram points too. Obviously check the 2 sensors first before condeming the ecm/bcm.
I"m gonna go out on a limb though and say you've got 1 circuit causing 3 failures. Which COULD be the module. But hopefully it's a battery cable issue. Ecm/bcm not getting a good ground.
Those 2 lights on the dash I"m guessing are trouble codes in the ecm.
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Thanks for all your help snow. Gonna buy a sniffer and a few cans of r134a. I did unplug sensor and read 0psi on ethos.
Once i plugged it in, it spiked to 300 and setlled back to 87-97 again (engine off).
When i added r134a yesterday, i thouhht i hesrd a hissing sound near pump. What about the safety valve? I cant see it from front though.
Once i plugged it in, it spiked to 300 and setlled back to 87-97 again (engine off).
When i added r134a yesterday, i thouhht i hesrd a hissing sound near pump. What about the safety valve? I cant see it from front though.
I don't know anything about the safety valve. Other then what i read on it today. I haven't had to screw around much with these newer systems yet. I retired 20 years ago so i learn a lot of new things on this forum. I keep my hands wet with ac problems. But just the basic stuff. Nothing sophisticated. Specially on the newer cars. This forum is pretty much my only learning tool these days. And teaching where i can. Just like everyone else.
If you charged yesterday and empty today. You've got a leak somewhere so anything is possible. From what i read about the safety valve. I don't think that's going to be your problem. Other then maybe a leak. But it's possible. You've definitely got electrical issues.
At this point. I'd be trying to get my hands on some troubleshooting trees. It's what the dealer would be doing. Or SHOULD be doing. If they were to work on your car.
I'd also be looking for the ac wiring diagram. Autozone has some guides but they apparently aren't carrying the cruze. Or possible not updating the system anymore for anything.
I fixed a 96 cherokee couple weeks ago. Her particular electrical issue turned out to be the pcm grounding out the compressor relay. Basically causing a short and overloading the relay. Bought a haynes for the girl owner but it didn't have the ac diagram. Autozone did luckily. So you might look into chilton. One of them also has a monthly charge for websight. I'm thinking i might subscribe to see if it might be of any help to this forum.
If you charged yesterday and empty today. You've got a leak somewhere so anything is possible. From what i read about the safety valve. I don't think that's going to be your problem. Other then maybe a leak. But it's possible. You've definitely got electrical issues.
At this point. I'd be trying to get my hands on some troubleshooting trees. It's what the dealer would be doing. Or SHOULD be doing. If they were to work on your car.
I'd also be looking for the ac wiring diagram. Autozone has some guides but they apparently aren't carrying the cruze. Or possible not updating the system anymore for anything.
I fixed a 96 cherokee couple weeks ago. Her particular electrical issue turned out to be the pcm grounding out the compressor relay. Basically causing a short and overloading the relay. Bought a haynes for the girl owner but it didn't have the ac diagram. Autozone did luckily. So you might look into chilton. One of them also has a monthly charge for websight. I'm thinking i might subscribe to see if it might be of any help to this forum.
Since you unplugged the high pressure and ethos dropped to zero. You could probably try a new switch. $30. And go from there on your electrical. Or pick one from a junk yard to try in case it's not the problem.
Let's not forget the negative battery cable. Seems like a lot of people have problems on this forum that seem to get fixed with a new cable. AC is one of them along with those 2 lights on your dash.
Let's not forget the negative battery cable. Seems like a lot of people have problems on this forum that seem to get fixed with a new cable. AC is one of them along with those 2 lights on your dash.
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I got some diagrams from AllData.. gonna go over them today and ask an electrician at work to look at it with the fault areas highlighted.
Sniffer and r134a ordered.
Sniffer and r134a ordered.
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Not sure exactly where because I cannot see it. The vacuum held, but I plan on getting new valves for Hi-Lo and a sniffer and can of freon.
Is there a real schrader valve to upgrade hi side? I see a doorman part on amazon, but it says doesnt fit. The OE ball design sucks.
Is there a real schrader valve to upgrade hi side? I see a doorman part on amazon, but it says doesnt fit. The OE ball design sucks.
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Yeah ordered from rockauto just wondering if there is a part # with an actual schrader valve for the high pressure port that swaps in.
Ordered stock for now, will report back later.
Btw those codes on dash were power steering service and frt windshield wiper relay issue.
Grandma wants to know if you got that thing fixed yet? LOL
If you can find it. Unplug the evap temp sensor and see what ethos reads. I"m betting it'll stop the compressor from running.
rockauto lists it as a refrigerant temp sensor for $13. I"m thinking it's going to be what used to be called a low pressure switch. The only other sensor is the refrigerant pressure sensor for $27. I'm guessing that's what used to be called hi pressure or pressure fan switch.
Your problems might be simple and just need those 2 switches replaced.
If you can find it. Unplug the evap temp sensor and see what ethos reads. I"m betting it'll stop the compressor from running.
rockauto lists it as a refrigerant temp sensor for $13. I"m thinking it's going to be what used to be called a low pressure switch. The only other sensor is the refrigerant pressure sensor for $27. I'm guessing that's what used to be called hi pressure or pressure fan switch.
Your problems might be simple and just need those 2 switches replaced.
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Sigh.. yeah she probably does wants to know.
Replacing the sensors shouldnt be an issue.. ill have to locate the evap temp sensor on my diagram.
I dont want to start throwing a bunch of parts at it though and end up with a headache more so than it is now. After looking at the schematic, it seems like all of these sensors are routed to the K30 control module; then to the fuse block underhood by the coolant reservoir. Im wondering if she may have spilled some coolant on it.
Anyway, where I am right now;
Diagnosing the circuits
Borrowed a vacuum pump to see if i can hold vacuum overnight
Ordered the schrader valve and ball valve for hi/lo service ports
Ordered a sniffer / freon with pag 46
Ordering a ground cable today
The hunt continues.
Replacing the sensors shouldnt be an issue.. ill have to locate the evap temp sensor on my diagram.
I dont want to start throwing a bunch of parts at it though and end up with a headache more so than it is now. After looking at the schematic, it seems like all of these sensors are routed to the K30 control module; then to the fuse block underhood by the coolant reservoir. Im wondering if she may have spilled some coolant on it.
Anyway, where I am right now;
Diagnosing the circuits
Borrowed a vacuum pump to see if i can hold vacuum overnight
Ordered the schrader valve and ball valve for hi/lo service ports
Ordered a sniffer / freon with pag 46
Ordering a ground cable today
The hunt continues.
Looking at the diagram and see how it reacts. I think you answered your own question in this paragraph.
Diagnostics all pass. Diagnose/replace sensor.
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