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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 chevy cruze LT. About 96,000 miles, rebuilt and bought 2 years ago. Only issue we've had till now is the under boost messages from the turbo last year.
Monday morning i allowed my car to warm before taking my kid to school (literally a minute drive). When we got in to leave i honestly didnt pay attention to the service messages cause i thought i knew what they all said. Leaving, i noticed the traction control light on and it wouldnt turn off. Drove to the school fine, noticed in the drop off line the idle was a little rough. Made it back home, turned the car off and restarted it and the traction control light went off.
Later i had to turn around on my way to town. As i was making a right back onto the road the car stalled. Had no power barely accelerating for a second then was fine. On the way into town (no turns or anything this time) it bogged down bad and again had very little acceleration. Once in town and stopped i popped the hood and noticed a ticking noise along with engine vibrating more than it should. Noticed oil stain on passenger side of engine, checked oil and it wasnt registering on the dip stick (dont guess the bf has been checking it) cleaned off the battery terminal as it was corroded and added oil. Got back in, thought it was doing good until i made another sharp right turn after it was warmed up again. Everything got worse. Same issues but now, going up a hill or trying to accelerate too fast theres more of a clank under the hood until i let off the gas. Sometimes is also just stops accelerating all together.
Only lights and service messages i have gotten are the service stabilitrak and traction control messages.
Obviously im not driving it currently, but as long as the engine isnt warmed up it drives fine.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Can you get it to an Autozone and have them read the codes? Once you know the codes post them here.

You really need to take care of the battery and connections too. This is an easy and cheap thing to start with. Find the proper socket and carefully remove the negative battery cable and then the positive. Pour some vinegar in a throw-away cup and warm it up in the microwave. Have a box of baking soda handy. Put the cables in the vinegar and put in some of the baking soda. The resulting reaction will clean all the corrosion off of the battery cable. It will foam up and stuff but is perfectly safe for you. It may be easier to do this twice and dip one end of the two cables and then the other.

Now you can do the same to the battery itself as well, Just a bit more cleanup though. Get a garden hose ready first. Take paper towel and wipe any grease or other contaminents off of the battery itself. Once it is relatively clean, sprinkle some baking soda onto it. Either spritz or pour some warm vinegar onto the battery mostly focusing on the terminals. When you are satisfied with the results, gently hose off the battery without getting the fuse box wet. Try and rinse off all the vinegar/baking soda expended mixture off of anything it dribbled onto.

Now that the cables and terminals are nice and clean, coat them with some dielectric grease / silicone grease. Very carefully put the positive cable back onto the fuse box terminal and then connect it to the battery. Tighten snugly with the socket. Once done, reconnect the negative in the same manner.

This alone may possibly get rid of many of the electrical issues. If not (or mabye in addition) take it to your dealer and have the negative battery cable replaced using the special warranty coverage.

[h=1]Special Coverage #14311: Negative Battery Cable[/h]
 

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This sounds rather like the valve cover has failed. Common issue with these cars.

Have the codes read and come back here with the Pxxxx codes and we'll be able to help further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can get it to autozone but i didnt think they would be able to help without the engine light on.
The other stabilitrack and traction control messages come up randomly also.

I thought about the valve but there is no air leaking from it. Will it sometimes go bad with out leaking air?
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Made it into autozone with it. The check engine light finally came on. The computer pulled up all codes for the MAF sensor. There was one code that didn't have any description P00F4.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Made it into autozone with it. The check engine light finally came on. The computer pulled up all codes for the MAF sensor. There was one code that didn't have any description P00F4.
Usually the P0097 is caused by a bad #2 IAT (internally shorted or open or otherwise damaged), but it could also be:

No reference voltage to the #2 IAT sensor due to an open wire
Excessively high intake air temperatures
Short to ground on signal circuit
Damaged IAT connector
Bad PCM


Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0097

 

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Usually the P0097 is caused by a bad #2 IAT (internally shorted or open or otherwise damaged), but it could also be:

No reference voltage to the #2 IAT sensor due to an open wire
Excessively high intake air temperatures
Short to ground on signal circuit
Damaged IAT connector
Bad PCM


Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0097

She is sweet. I would let her replace any of my worn parts. I just subscribed to Paloma, someone asked if she would marry him!
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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You need to replace the valve cover. The PC valve has gone bad. This is a common issue. There are a number of good videos on YouTube that will walk you through the repair. Good luck
Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

It so happens that in post #5 there is a very good video within that link.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The pc valve was fine. Turns out my turbo is shot. Really odd it didnt do a check engine anything, though. Finally got one today and having someone put it on.

Thank you all for the help!!!
 
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