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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided on a little project today. First I played around and created a custom air intake, sort of. I'll post that ghetto white trash looking deal in another thread.

HOWEVER, i also had a little project I wanted to try.

I have had exhaust wrap and the silicone spray (and steely ties) laying around for a long time, from previous car projects. So I figured, what the H***, I'll wrap and coat these headers. Please don't turn this thread into a b*tch session about whether or not you personally think it's a dumb mod. If I didn't have the materials already laying around I probably wouldn't have bought some. But I got a little itch bug to work on my Cruze today.

HERE'S WHERE I NEED HELP!!! Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Compact car
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Automotive engine part
Auto part Engine Vehicle
As you can see from my pictures, I have taken off virtually everything I could possibly see in order to wiggle the exhaust manifold and turbo to come up. I've unbolt the downpipe, I've taken all 8 of those PITA to reach bolt things out from the manifold itself, I've disconnected as much as the turbo that I can see and is safe to remove. I'm starting to notice how integrated this turbo is to our exhaust manifolds. It's almost like on big piece. So it's frustrating figuring this out!

Has anyone here ever removed their exhaust manifold and/or turbo assembly?

What am I missing? The downpipe I have taken completely off. I've taken off some small tubing on the turbo for wiggle room. Every time I yank and pull, it just doesn't wants to move. I can pull it up a bit, pull it seems that it's still stuck on sometime.

Tips/suggestions? I am beat my head against a wall, and now my car is just going to chill overnight until I feel the energy and hopefully get some tips from awesome Cruze people!
 

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A summery of the manual:

  • Drain cooling system
  • remove air cleaner outlet duct
  • disconnect PCV pipe from turbo
  • remove exhaust manifold heat shield
  • remove oil feed pipe (replace seal rings)
  • remove coolant return hose
  • remove coolant return pipe bolt
  • remove charge air cooler inlet air hose
  • remove coolant feed pipe hollow screw using a special wrench to avoid twisting the feed pipe (EN-49942)
  • discard/replace 2 seal rings
  • remove cat converter
  • remove oil return pipe
  • discard/replace gasket
  • remove/discard 8 turbocharger nuts (they are torque to yield and can't be re-used.)
  • remove turbo
  • discard/replace turbo gasket
That's the highlights anyway. It's about 4 1/2 pages to remove and replace.
 

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Why can't you seperate the turbo from the manifold? I see from the pic that you took the v-band style clamp off. You should be able to seperate the two with the right size slotted screwdriver and a few light taps of ball peen hammer. Be VERY CAREFUL with the turbine wheel once it's out of the exhaust manifold/turbine housing.

I've been thinking about doing some light porting and coating my exhaust manifold/turbine housing as well. I was considering sending mine to Darren at FFWD Connection for there triple stage process, Swaintech...haven't made up my mind though. Where are sending your for coating?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just stumbled across this page, but it's in Russian. I translated it with Google:

Chevrolet CRUZE 2012 Замена турбонагнетателя

[h=3]Removal Procedure[/h]
  1. Open the hood.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. See. Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection.
  3. Drain the cooling system. See. Cooling System Draining and Filling.
  4. Remove the exhaust duct of the air filter. See. The exhaust duct air filter replacement.
  5. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation tube from the turbocharger. See. Replacement hose / pipe / tube PCV.
  6. Remove the thermal protection shield of the exhaust manifold. See. Thermofilter shield exhaust manifold replacement.
  7. Disconnect the harness connector (1) of the electromagnetic control valve wastegate turbocharger and unclip (2) wiring harness.
  8. Unscrew the banjo bolt (4) takes the turbocharger oil line.
  9. Remove and discard the two O-rings (1) and (3).
  10. Remove the bolt (5) takes the turbocharger oil.
Note: Close the screw hole in the turbocharger to prevent contamination.

That's what their steps say for removing the turbo.

I just wanted to remove the exhaust manifold! Thank you GM for making such a complicated integrated turbo/manifold design where you can't remove one without the other.

Plus, that
EN-49942 tool is EXPENSIVE?! $149?!?! No thanks.

Since I have everything half torn apart I might as well keep cracking on it today. I didn't want to drain the coolant, but I seems I might have to? Accessing some of these bolts is FREAKING BIOTCH!
 

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After all said and done you may end up cracking the cast manifold (turbo cars don't have header/headers) due to the heat not being able to go anywhere. You may also notice that your coolant and oil temp going up after complete
 

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It'll take 0 minutes to remove the headers because a. 4 bangers picky come with 1 and b. Turbo engine doesn't come with a header.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After all said and done you may end up cracking the cast manifold (turbo cars don't have header/headers) due to the heat not being able to go anywhere. You may also notice that your coolant and oil temp going up after complete
Turbo cars absolutely have headers. Coolant and oil temp going up? I am going to have to disagree. How many cars have you been around/tuned/modded?

Check out these headers on WRXs/STis - which have turbos - and people ceramic coat and/or wrap these all the time. No issues at all with cracking - the idea is to keep the heat IN to help turbo spool and in general keep heat away from engine bay (same idea behind heat shields).

That said, my whole project was a disaster. Was up until about 4am in the cold outside in my apartment parking lot messing with painting and wrapping the headers and downpipe, reinstalling - draining and replacing coolant, etc. The bolts for the manifold wouldn't fit with the wrap on - they are a tight fit anyway, even with a thin wrap they won't work. So I just said F it and removed all the wrap from the manifold. Then I put it on and took it back off about twice, needing to move around the oil banjo bolt and the coolant feed lines (which are an absolute BIOTCH to access and tighten!!!!).

I am just going to order the ZZP downpipe, see how that "8whp" feels.

Behold, turbo cars with headers that have no issues of cracking/oil and coolant temps going up:

Auto part Automotive exhaust Exhaust manifold Exhaust system Pipe
Auto part Automotive exhaust Exhaust manifold Pipe Family car
Exhaust manifold Automotive exhaust Auto part Exhaust system Automotive exterior
Snake Reptile Scaled reptile Colubridae Boa
Auto part Automotive super charger part Vehicle
 

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I really try to be a nice guy even tho I'm a real dick Again turbo cars have turbo manifolds not headers= V8/v6. a header is for one bank of cylinders so since our cars are 4 cylinders we would have a header if it was NA. But anyway It's one thing to wrap and coat a sch40 manifold then to wrap and coat a cast manifold cast manifolds crack and hold heat very well. (Heat Wrap is designed to scavenge)

And a little back ground on me I spent 6 years with TRD Usa doing engine tear down and mileage on all nascar and midget engines. Before that I worked for a few tuning shops here in SoCal mainly Honda and Nissan builds If you Have youtube search CPTRob then get back to me and tell me how many modified cars I've been around and own to this day.. I can't tune or weld for **** but I can build engines with the best of them.


Also what's the difference between an engine and a motor? Also the a14 turbo manifold has stainless in it on the upper portion
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Datsun 1200, from 1970!

Sorry to call you out on experience, I didn't know your background. You know how it goes on forums - some people don't know what they're talking about.

So you're CPTRob? You worked on the big V8s for the Toyota NASCAR team? Good old pushrod OHV carb motors :) took a page from Dodge and GM on that one, I read. Kinda like how the "old technology" OVH push rod new LT motor in the Corvette C7. Heck, I have a friend with a 02 C5 Corvette pushrod OHV pushing 1200, about to make it 1450 to take on Lambos. America FTW. Or at least GM.

Evos making 900whp wrap and/or coat their "headers" with the same design as us.

I have wrapped and seen many wrapped WRX cast manifolds/headers - see above posted pictures. Ever touch a bare cast iron manifold after a long drive? It's not exactly cool to the touch...

Evos:

Auto part Automotive super charger part Pipe Exhaust manifold Automotive engine part
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Exhaust manifold
Engine Auto part Automotive engine part Carburetor Automotive super charger part
Exhaust manifold Automotive exhaust Auto part Pipe Exhaust system
Auto part Exhaust manifold Automotive exhaust Pipe Metal
 

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So clue me in - what's the point in wrapping the header? To not burn your hands working on the car? Because something heat sensitive is near by? I'm just wondering what the goal is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So clue me in - what's the point in wrapping the header? To not burn your hands working on the car? Because something heat sensitive is near by? I'm just wondering what the goal is.

Ceramic coating is a far more advantageous technology for a street car. Wraps are fine in some applications but you have to be aware of the hydrogen embrittlement problem created by using wraps. This is what seems like melting and rusting. Mild steel, used in most headers, is most affected by hydrogen embrittlement and you will be replacing the headers on a fairly routine schedule.

What wraps and ceramic coating do is keep more of the exhaust heat in the pipe. And heat is energy. The more heat you keep in the pipe, the faster the gas moves and the better the system scavenges.
 

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so basicly i skimmed over this and didnt see any correct answer to the removal of the charger. you gotta move the a/c compressor and bracket out of the way to remove coolant feed hose to remove the turbo. I have changed 10 or more turbos on these engines and i would suggest wrapping your downpipe and calling it a day. It still takes me about 2.5 hours to remove and install one.
 

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so basicly i skimmed over this and didnt see any correct answer to the removal of the charger. you gotta move the a/c compressor and bracket out of the way to remove coolant feed hose to remove the turbo. I have changed 10 or more turbos on these engines and i would suggest wrapping your downpipe and calling it a day. It still takes me about 2.5 hours to remove and install one.

lol why did you remove the ac comp? I didn't you can swap it all out in an hour
 

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i have done them all on encore's, i figured they were the same but the coolant return line i believe is hidden behind a bracket that holds the a/c compressor. i guess they must be different
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
lol why did you remove the ac comp? I didn't you can swap it all out in an hour
Yea no need to remove the AC compressor. I didn't touch it during the two times I had to remove and reinstall...
 

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i have done them all on encore's, i figured they were the same but the coolant return line i believe is hidden behind a bracket that holds the a/c compressor. i guess they must be different
AWD encores? But you could be right haven't had a chance yet with one of those
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Metal Auto part Brass Pipe
Product Auto part Tire Muffler Metal
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View attachment 143537 View attachment 143545 My polished turd project went well!

Not so much. Looks pretty, but had to remove all the wrap to get it to bolt back together. Waste of time and money. Better off getting the ZZP downpipe and calling it a day.

And no more wrapping again, ever. More research that I've done shows ceramic coating to be better and has less chance of cracking or rusting anything. Plus it looks nicer.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So my lovely Cruze is in the body shop for some body damage repairs. In the meantime, I'm renting a 2015 Ram with the 5.7 HEMI. I hate Dodge with a fiery passion, but having a truck is kind of cool. And having a healthy V8 is a really nice change from our dinky Cruze. I have major torque lol.
 
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