Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellow Cruzers,

First of all, thank you for allowing to be part of this great community. I have read many posts and I just decided to sign up.
I need your help. I have a 2013 Cruze LS automatic 1.8 L. I bought off a friend. On slow speeds it bogs down. When I go at like 40mph and come back down to around 23mph, I feel the car jerk a little, sort of like a hard shift or like a tug. Furthermore, sometimes when I am at a stop light and hit the gas to go, the car feels a little jerky. Almost like when your car has bad brakes and it shudders but I know it’s not the brakes because it happens even when I’m not pressing on the break pedal. Sometimes it happens when I am close to idling/moving incredibly slowly, like in heavy traffic.


I took it to my local mechanic, and he said that the reasons why this may be happening is that the car is losing charge or the alternator is not properly charging the battery. That the alternator needs to be replaced because it is likely the culprit. He said that another reason may be because I need the spark plugs replaced because it causes a cylinder to misfire. Sometimes one of each of 2 cylinders misfires. Additionally, he said that the ignition coil may have to be replaced. At a total cost of $800+ with labor and parts. I am relived it’s not a trans or engine issue, but this price is up there and right now I’m a broke college student that can barely live day to day.
I read online that a common issue is a bad negative battery cable causing similar problems.


One more thing, a few days ago, I got a StabiliTrac light. It said something like “Service stability control” and it then went away after restarting the vehicle. Not sure if related.


Can someone recommend or suggest if this sounds like a legitimate reason why my car is acting up this way? Thank you.


TLDR: car jerks at around 23mph, was quoted $800+ for alternator, spark plugs and ignition coil replacement.
Note: Sorry for my bad English and grammar. Thanks for looking!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,596 Posts
The transmission could be something as simple as having the ATF fluid drained and refilled. How many miles on the car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got the car back. It did not do it until I put the heater up and the radio turned on. It may be the alternator.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,596 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I got the car back. It did not do it until I put the heater up and the radio turned on. It may be the alternator.
I would definitely look into the negative cable. You can get a lot of strange electrical issues with a bad ground. Did you have the alternator and battery tested? This is where
I would start first if it were mine.


Sent from my Z717VL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would definitely look into the negative cable. You can get a lot of strange electrical issues with a bad ground. Did you have the alternator and battery tested? This is where
I would start first if it were mine.


Sent from my Z717VL using Tapatalk
I think it may have already been replaced, there is a bar-code on the terminal and the tag looks very new. I may be wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,449 Posts
Check with the dealer or whatever it takes to see if the cable has already been replaced.

Then do a charging system check. Volt meters can be had from harbor freight for $5. If there's a store in your area. I highly doubt it's the alternator but that will be a cheap and easy check to do. Check voltage during day with all accessories off. AT IDLE. Then check with all accessories on. AT IDLE. Usually if the alternator can't hand something as basic as supplying voltage to provide spark for the engine. Then it's certainly not charging the battery enough to be able to crank the motor over.

I'm more inclined to say cylinder misfire. Start with new plugs properly gapped. That's cheap. You'll have to pull the coil pack off to get to the plugs. A new coil pack also appears to be cheap. You could replace all components for under $100 yourself. 4 spark plugs and 1 coil pack assembly.

I don't know the lengevity of coils but they don't appear to be lasting long these days. And if the problem persists. The dealer can start looking for other causes.

Worse case scenario is loss of compression in one of the cylinders. But that don't really cause the car to shake. As the cylinder is dead and will basically just float around. Or Transmission problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Check with the dealer or whatever it takes to see if the cable has already been replaced.

Then do a charging system check. Volt meters can be had from harbor freight for $5. If there's a store in your area. I highly doubt it's the alternator but that will be a cheap and easy check to do. Check voltage during day with all accessories off. AT IDLE. Then check with all accessories on. AT IDLE. Usually if the alternator can't hand something as basic as supplying voltage to provide spark for the engine. Then it's certainly not charging the battery enough to be able to crank the motor over.

I'm more inclined to say cylinder misfire. Start with new plugs properly gapped. That's cheap. You'll have to pull the coil pack off to get to the plugs. A new coil pack also appears to be cheap. You could replace all components for under $100 yourself. 4 spark plugs and 1 coil pack assembly.

I don't know the lengevity of coils but they don't appear to be lasting long these days. And if the problem persists. The dealer can start looking for other causes.

Worse case scenario is loss of compression in one of the cylinders. But that don't really cause the car to shake. As the cylinder is dead and will basically just float around. Or Transmission problem.
Thank you, I agree with you. I have a voltmeter I will check today. From what I understand, voltage should be between 14-15v at idle.
I will try today.

I changed the Spark plugs and and ignition coil myself and spent around $150. The car is still acting funny. I think that the battery terminal cable may have already been changed by the previous owner but will confirm. My transmission may be sh*t. I was hesitant about taking the car to the dealer and paying $140 to have someone tell me what I already know, but I think it is my last resort and I may end up budging.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,596 Posts
Thank you, I agree with you. I have a voltmeter I will check today. From what I understand, voltage should be between 14-15v at idle.
I will try today.

I changed the Spark plugs and and ignition coil myself and spent around $150. The car is still acting funny. I think that the battery terminal cable may have already been changed by the previous owner but will confirm. My transmission may be sh*t. I was hesitant about taking the car to the dealer and paying $140 to have someone tell me what I already know, but I think it is my last resort and I may end up budging.
If the problem is covered by a warranty then the diagnostic charge will be covered as well. The flip side of this is the dealership does need to alert you up front about this charge just in case it's not a warranty repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If the problem is covered by a warranty then the diagnostic charge will be covered as well. The flip side of this is the dealership does need to alert you up front about this charge just in case it's not a warranty repair.
There are a couple of Chevy service centers in my area. I hope I pick a decent one. Will post back here. I wonder if there are other people with this problem...
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top