Help with tapping into stock speaker wiring for an amp install

34126 Views 12 Replies 7 Participants Last post by cruzershane, May 8, 2012

Marzen

Discussion Starter · Mar 5, 2012 (Edited)

I ran into a problem today in that I was unable to tap into the stock stereo speaker wiring for my line out converter. 1- there is not much slack to work with up by the kick panel under the fuse box, and 2 - they are twisted pairs. I've looked at the photos that others have posted and I just can't seem to get it done. I could sure use some suggestions as I'm now stuck at about 80% shy of completing this project. Here's some pics of what I got done this weekend.
-Thanks,
Marz

Vehicle Car Auto part Vehicle door Trunk

Tire Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part

View attachment 3915

Electrical wiring Wire Cable management Technology Vehicle

I found a ground stud on the wheel well.

Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Compact car

Wire Electronics Technology Electronic device Cable

12vdc switched source - pigtail
View attachment 3909

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1 - 13 of 13 Posts

boats4life

· #2 · Mar 5, 2012

I would just do what I did for my system, but a GM-AA44 pac LOC and it's all plug and play! No need to mutilate the factory wiring...

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Dale_K

· #3 · Mar 5, 2012

I used the screw type taps that came with my Bazooka and was able to make them work at the kick panel. It was a little tight but it worked.

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Marzen

Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 5, 2012 (Edited)

boats4life said:
...it's all plug and play! No need to mutilate the factory wiring...

Hi,
I'd seen you post this before, but I was concerned that pulling the head unit out was beyond me.
1) Could you describe how to remove the h/u?
2) Is there a reasonable amount of slack in the wiring harness to get to the rear of the h/u?
3) How difficult is it to route the new wiring through the dash and down to the kick panel near the trunk release?

Thanks,
-Marz

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Marzen

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 7, 2012

boats4life said:
I would just do what I did for my system, but a GM-AA44 pac LOC and it's all plug and play! No need to mutilate the factory wiring...

I could not locate the GM-A44 Pac part you listed. Perhaps they have changed the p/n.

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boats4life

· #6 · Mar 7, 2012

I'll post a link. The hardest part was removing the panels without scratching or gouging them, but they pop right off. After that, it's just a few screws and it's pretty easy. There's just enough slack to insert the new harness go-between. I ran my power wires down the drivers side and my audio down the pax side. (helps keep out interference from the power cable to the audio signal)

I had the part number mixed up, lol:
This is it
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

But you can get it cheaper:
Pac AA-GM44 Add Amp Interfac for 2010

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Jaycruze

· #7 · Mar 7, 2012 (Edited)

You can get at the wires easier if you pull the panel thats behind the hood release. Thats what I did, The wires have enough slack that you can pull the ones you need out of the bunch just a bit.

edit*

I just tapped at the spot with long speaker wire though, I ran that wire to the trunk and mounted the LOC in the trunk where the spare ground is on the right side behind the carpet.

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Marzen

Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 8, 2012

Jaycruze said:
You can get at the wires easier if you pull the panel thats behind the hood release.

Haha - 'easier' is a relative term I 'spose. I tried that same location as you Jay, but found it impossible. I spent the better part of the '80's as a radioman on a submarine so I'm used to some tight locations, but I couldn't pull this one off.
All things considered, I think I'll go with Boats4life's Pac converter behind the head unit.
I did locate a quick disconnect at Parts Express so I can remove the sub/amp from the trunk when needed.
Here's a link to the quick disconnect if anyone is interested (you'll need to purchase two):
SMH SY175 Series 4 AWG 175A Breakaway DC Power Connector 263-120

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Marzen

Discussion Starter · #9 · Mar 9, 2012 (Edited)

Someone was good enough to post a link to this foreign youtube video showing how most of the center console & trim is removed. They do make it look easy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etNo4pHAo_0&list=FLuGjCG6YUBEPgbe3VyVt1cQ&index=1&feature=plpp_video
Boats, can you comment on what parts seem necessary to just get to the back of the radio?

Thanks

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rscott.neps

· #10 · May 6, 2012

Where do I connect the PAC adapter after stock stereo is out? Please help

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Marzen

Discussion Starter · #11 · May 6, 2012

You have to disconnect the modular block wiring connector on the back of the stereo, then attach the PAC modular connector to the stereo, then reattach the vehicles wiring connector to the other side of the PAC unit. The PAC unit has a 'T' for a wiring harness - meaning it attaches between the stereo and the car's wiring. Stuff the PAC unit on the right side of the radio compartment (left side of the glove box. It's a tight little area but it will work as there is no room behind the radio.

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XtremeRevolution

· #12 · May 7, 2012

Running RCA wires alongside the power wire? Big no-no. You're just asking for interference no matter how well your RCAs are shielded.

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cruzershane

· #13 · May 8, 2012

XtremeRevolution said:
Running RCA wires alongside the power wire? Big no-no. You're just asking for interference no matter how well your RCAs are shielded.

i was just about to say this until i read to the end . haha

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Help with tapping into stock speaker wiring for an amp install

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