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Attached is the info for the plugs. The reason I'm concerned is because the engine is ticking pretty loud @ idle. I've heard this could be a normal occurrence but it still sounds kind of bad. The only upgrade I have is a k&n typhoon cold air intake. I have a few small oil leaks but the oil has even changed regularly with mobil1 and Amazon basics full synthetic and it is full at the moment. No check engine lights and runs decent just bad gas mileage lately and some slight hesitation. Thanks for the reply. Again any Info u have would help as I dont want to have to tear the engine apart or replace it as I'm kinda broke right now I between jobs.
 

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I checked them this morning as well for tightness the only thing I noticed that was odd was white powdery residue on the farthest left side (driver) coil pack boot and that 3 of the 4 springs Inside there were cockeyed I straightened them out and carefully replaced it and it doesnt seem to make any difference with the ticking noise
 

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Attached is the info for the plugs. The reason I'm concerned is because the engine is ticking pretty loud @ idle. I've heard this could be a normal occurrence but it still sounds kind of bad. The only upgrade I have is a k&n typhoon cold air intake. I have a few small oil leaks but the oil has even changed regularly with mobil1 and Amazon basics full synthetic and it is full at the moment. No check engine lights and runs decent just bad gas mileage lately and some slight hesitation. Thanks for the reply. Again any Info u have would help as I dont want to have to tear the engine apart or replace it as I'm kinda broke right now I between jobs.
Gap size looks like .7 mm, which should be equal to 0.028". So that's fine. I don't know that anyone else has tried these in these cars - especially switching to Bosch from NGK plugs; the heat range designations and plug size may be different as well.

If you have the original spark plugs, I'd put em back and see what happens.
 

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I checked them this morning as well for tightness the only thing I noticed that was odd was white powdery residue on the farthest left side (driver) coil pack boot and that 3 of the 4 springs Inside there were cockeyed I straightened them out and carefully replaced it and it doesnt seem to make any difference with the ticking noise
Come to think of it - unplug the purge valve on the top of the intake manifold. See if that's the cause of your loud ticking. This is extremely common to fail.
 

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you could also tap it a lil bit with a screwdriver handle...if the little valve is stuck in there, that should break it free for a lil bit. Doing this while the car is running should be able to produce a difference in engine noise and valve ticking if it "fixes" it.
 

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U are talking about tapping on the valve itself right? I will have to wait to try that if so because I dont have the $ for a new valve cover gasket at the moment. Thanks for the reply guys
 

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I checked them this morning as well for tightness the only thing I noticed that was odd was white powdery residue on the farthest left side (driver) coil pack boot and that 3 of the 4 springs Inside there were cockeyed I straightened them out and carefully replaced it and it doesnt seem to make any difference with the ticking noise
I had a ticking noise on my Cruze also. I cant remember if i changed the crank shaft seal or the valve cover to make it go away. I'll check my records and follow up with you on it. But it's an inexpensive fix.

Dealer kept trying to tell me it was "normal" for cruzes but they're wrong...
 

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Just some info on spark plugs.
Iridium require less energy to fire than copper and platinum plugs. If the coils were designed to run iridium plugs then be aware you could prematurely burn your coils out.
Something to think about.
 

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If the coils were designed to run iridium plugs then be aware you could prematurely burn your coils out.
Something to think about.
If the coils were designed to handle iridium plugs, why would the coils burn out sooner when using iridium plugs?

That doesn't sound right. I could understand born out would occur if you were using platinum or copper plugs with a coil designed for iridium plugs.
 

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Read my post again. If you run platinum or copper plugs they require more current to fire. Iridium plugs require less. So if you use platinum or copper plugs on a coil that was designed to handle iridium plugs you could burn out your coils prematurely over time.
Got it?
 

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You stated:
Just some info on spark plugs.
Meaning that you were providing info about SPARK PLUGS, NOT COILS relating to my question about the COILS.

Again, it would make sense for a coil to burn out quicker when using a different metal (platinum or copper) in a coil set up built & meant to handle iridium. Specifically, I asked about coils. See further below.

So, relating to your statement:
Iridium require less energy to fire than copper and platinum plugs
Statement indicates the topic of SPARK PLUGS again. NOT COILS.

Which is why I prepared to ask my question by starting with:

If the coils were designed to handle iridium
Leading to:

why would the coils burn out sooner when using iridium plugs?
Leaving the question still unanswered. Make... sense...? :unsure:
 

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The wording could be a little better, but I had no difficulty understanding that they were providing info that not using the recommended iridium type spark plugs could burn out the coils faster.

You stated:


Meaning that you were providing info about SPARK PLUGS, NOT COILS relating to my question about the COILS.

Again, it would make sense for a coil to burn out quicker when using a different metal (platinum or copper) in a coil set up built & meant to handle iridium. Specifically, I asked about coils. See further below.

So, relating to your statement:


Statement indicates the topic of SPARK PLUGS again. NOT COILS.

Which is why I prepared to ask my question by starting with:



Leading to:



Leaving the question still unanswered. Make... sense...? :unsure:
 

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Has anyone tried the new NGK Ruthenium plugs available for the Cruze?

Supposedly they deliver better performance than iridium and last longer. I just saw them on Rockauto for a couple bucks more than the stock plugs.
I just switched to these yesterday. The sku is FR7BHX-S so they are a colder plug than the stock ones. When I bought them over the weekend at RockAuto they were $7.50 a plug; they are asking $8.12 a plug now. CarID has them for $8.50 a plug.

They seem to to help in the same way as the copper plugs that others have tried. Gapped them as close to 0.028 (NGK says they are supposed to be gapped to 0.027 for the 2011 Cruze) as I could: No more hesitation at higher RPMs, slow acceleration is gone - even after sitting at a stop light for a couple minutes, and running the ac at the full speed of 4 produces a vibration along the lines of a purring cat (I’ll swap my hvac module and control panel over to the ones I pulled from a 2014 at some point to see how they handle the full speed of 6).

I’m not on here much these days, but I’ll try to remember to give a 1 month report on the plugs.
 

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Anybody tried the BKR9EIX?
It seems that the Fiat/Chrysler 1.4 turbos use a 9 (in NGK) heat range plug, factory.
If it works in them without fouling,
It would seem that they should be ok in ours too.
 

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I would think that a 9 heat range would be too hot for our vehicles. Especially since NGK is now recommending a 7 heat range for the new ruthenium plugs which are designed specifically for turbos.
 

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The NGK and Denso heat range numbers are in reverse of most other makers heat range systems.
With NGK/Denso, higher the number the colder the plug, so we are talking about a colder plug, not hotter.
 

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Thanks for the copper spark plug recommendation my gas mileage improved by 3mpg doing this. I have almost 7k on the copper plugs and I think I need to recap them because I'm noticing delayed power when accelerating. I still lose power with the ac on. It's not just this car though every 4cyl I've owned had very noticeable power loss with the A/C on from the extra load of the compressor.
 
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