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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know of a real good hid kit for our cruzes? I've been through so many different ones. I always buy the bi-xenon high/low kit. I've resorted o buying just bright white halogens. I can't find anything that will have a good cut off line and then the brights actually work properly(also a good cut off line) all insight/info welcome:)



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Anyone know of a real good hid kit for our cruzes? I've been through so many different ones. I always buy the bi-xenon high/low kit. I've resorted o buying just bright white halogens. I can't find anything that will have a good cut off line and then the brights actually work properly(also a good cut off line) all insight/info welcome:)



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Have you thought of leds? I have a cool hi/low beam conversion, I like it way more then the xenon HIDS, no warm uo, a clean white, I didn't have high beam so they were halogens high beams which bothered me, no ballast troubles and they're close in price



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you thought of leds? I have a cool hi/low beam conversion, I like it way more then the xenon HIDS, no warm uo, a clean white, I didn't have high beam so they were halogens high beams which bothered me, no ballast troubles and they're close in price

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I already tried. I have the opt 7 leds which look absolutely amazing except the cut off line is crap. My driver side lamp shines up and out a bit and when I hit my brights, it just fills in the dark gap that the lights weren't filling in before. They're definitely not made for reflective housing (stock). When the original bulbs are in the cut off is perfect, but with the leds and all the hids I've havent had any good luck with ones I've purchased in the past. If it's just a major headlamp adjustment for the leds, I will put them back in. But then when I go back to the stock bulbs, I would have to for sure adjust them back.


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That's what I was looking for but couldn't find, that's what made my decision for me after I was very unhappy with the hids, installed hids one summer as soon as November hit the cold killed one of the ballasts, not even a year old, very unhappy, switched to leds, and I love them but everyone's different, good luck man

And less us know/ show pictures of what you go with !


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Usually just tossing bulbs in a halogen housing is the issue. The filament is not in the same spot. Adding HID's to the gen 1 you have to take the headlights apart and do projectors. W/o the light pattern scatters and becomes useless hot spots and glare. What HID kit did you use? the quality ones last way longer than a season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey all, thanks for the input. As one stated about just slapping in aftermarket hids/leds and expecting them to perform.. that's not the case as I proved it to myself. I will post pix of the opt 7 led lights and prove that the cutoff is not right. Judging and looking at the lumileds, there was a comparison between a halogen and that particular bulb. If anyone had noticed the position of the filaments on the oem stock, and then looked at the lumileds that the positioning of the chips are replicating the position of the stock. I'm definitely up for trying these new ge style. To etec225, thanks for the pix and references! Ive seen the new ge bulbs but wasn't sure if anyone had them in their stock housing if their Cruze.. that's an awesome post and look forward to buying these new ge lumileds. But the question is, the pix with them ge bulbs, is that those bulbs inside of the Cruze's stock housing???


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Usually just tossing bulbs in a halogen housing is the issue. The filament is not in the same spot. Adding HID's to the gen 1 you have to take the headlights apart and do projectors. W/o the light pattern scatters and becomes useless hot spots and glare. What HID kit did you use? the quality ones last way longer than a season.
I believe it was an opt7, individual ballasts for each bulb and anti flicker, can bus and all the good wiring not a cheapo setup and idk what went wrong but I'm happy with my current setup, the h13 led was designed to mimick the stock bulb, I believe the long beam filament is on the bottom and so are the 3 leds on the lamp, I had to re aim the housing down a bit but it's pretty close to factory settings

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@evo77, ur right with the pix.
This is what I have. Clean light but no good for reflective housing..




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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@evo77, ur right with the pix.
This is what I have. Clean light but no good for reflective housing..




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What's the story with the fans on these LEDs? Are they basically computer fans, or are these fans actually IP rated for dust and water intrusion?
Who knows. With as cheap as these bulbs can be had, their not going to source a high quality fan. It'll drive up the price. Although you will see many videos on youtube of various Chinese led bulb manufacturers demonstrating that their bulb can be submerged in a pail of water and still operate.

One LED headlight I have on hand claims they use this Sunon maglev fan which apparently is superior to most fans on the LED headlight market. I'm no fan expert but I can tell you that it didn't help much with cooling after 60 minutes of on time. Lux measured a reduction of 14% from initial start up over that duration.

EF30080S2-E00U-A99 Sunon Fans | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
 

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Don't buy LED bulbs that produce a crappy beam.



Those pics seem pretty accurate thanks!

What's the story with the fans on these LEDs? Are they basically computer fans, or are these fans actually IP rated for dust and water intrusion?
The diode in the led produces heat, the fins in the fan housing and fan act to dispurce that heat so it doesn't blow the bulb, serious risk with "high performing" or "high output" bulbs whether you agree that they perform high or not lol


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Those pics seem pretty accurate thanks!



The diode in the led produces heat, the fins in the fan housing and fan act to dispurce that heat so it doesn't blow the bulb, serious risk with "high performing" or "high output" bulbs whether you agree that they perform high or not lol


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I understand LEDs generate loads of waste heat, I've designed and built a true 60w- 6000 lumen aluminum light bar 12" wide, 1" thick base with 1.5" fins and statically tested on a bench, the housing it will get to 160F after ~30 minutes. I'm a bit impressed that these lights are 6000 - 8000 lumen, so until I put an meter on it I can't make any judgement; however, what I found with the junk Chinese light bars is they advertise the capability of the LED chip, but they under-drive it so it doesn't actually produce the advertised capability in practice, this is how they get away with dinky heat sinks and outright lies.

I am no fan expert either, but I have examined a lot of computer fans and that is what it looks like they're using. Unprotected computer fans in the region I live with lots of salt spray from the roads in the winter and then 100F summers does not seem like it good combination, I can't image they would survive a sandy place with dust storms, just assumptions on my part here. If they could integrate temperature control to reduce current relative to temperature, it could keep the chips below 100C or whatever is recommended not to exceed that would reduce LED life.
 

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I understand LEDs generate loads of waste heat, I've designed and built a true 60w- 6000 lumen aluminum light bar 12" wide, 1" thick base with 1.5" fins and statically tested on a bench, the housing it will get to 160F after ~30 minutes. I'm a bit impressed that these lights are 6000 - 8000 lumen, so until I put an meter on it I can't make any judgement; however, what I found with the junk Chinese light bars is they advertise the capability of the LED chip, but they under-drive it so it doesn't actually produce the advertised capability in practice, this is how they get away with dinky heat sinks and outright lies.

I am no fan expert either, but I have examined a lot of computer fans and that is what it looks like they're using. Unprotected computer fans in the region I live with lots of salt spray from the roads in the winter and then 100F summers does not seem like it good combination, I can't image they would survive a sandy place with dust storms, just assumptions on my part here. If they could integrate temperature control to reduce current relative to temperature, it could keep the chips below 100C or whatever is recommended not to exceed that would reduce LED life.
Its standard practice for all of these Chinese LED bulbs to over inflate their lumen ratings. They simply add up the raw lumens for each chip and total them out. And even then sometimes it still doesn't quite add up. If you know exactly the chips their using and look up the datasheets and then find the bin their from (which they never disclose) then you can look up the specs. However even the highest bins still don't add up to their outrageous high lumen claims. No one should ever buy a bulb based on a lumen rating. They should buy the bulb due to the design and how it performs inside of a reflector.

Some LED bulbs on the market have built in thermistors in the driver circuit that keep them from overheating. A very good thing to have as most don't have a good thermal management design to begin with and it keeps these high powered chips from burning themselves up.
 
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