Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my son was driving back from college today; 2012 Turbo with about 70,000 miles. Has had the turbo changed under warranty (about 25,000 miles) when the tube clogged up and starved it of oil. Two years ago the valve cover was changed and a few months more recently the intake to fix the PCV and oil use issues. Seems like there was something in the past year but I don't recall wearing a mask so maybe not ...

While driving on Highway 154 into Santa Barbara, he suddenly felt a loss of power and pulled over. Said the engine was really shaky, but I couldn't get him to say if it was shaky when running or shaky as it tried to start. Later he says he thinks it wasn't actually starting. About two hours after he originally pulled off the road, the decided to try to move it ... said it wouldn't go over 15 miles per hour (up hill). When I finally got there another 30 minutes after (same time tow truck finally arrived) I started it - engine started and ran smooth; seemed to have little power in the SHORT time (a few feet) I moved it; code set was P0299 low boost.

I have a hard time believing that a turbo with only about 50,000 miles, the new design oil tube, and religious oil changes with synthetic oil as soon as it hit 50% on the OLM would go bad. But I also have problems believing the PCV parts could go bad in less than two years. It is at Bunnin Chevrolet being diagnosed... anyone want to venture a guess as to what is actually wrong?

Winner gets the admiration of their peers!

Then I need to decide if I want to keep this car or sell it after repair. I love it when it runs right. GREAT mileage. Quiet. Comfortable. Nice radio. Large trunk. But I can't have a car for my son that gets him stuck! Opinions taken on this aspect as well.

For comparison, my 1999 Silverado has 227,000 miles on it, and has only gotten me stuck once; that was when I was trying to see how long I could drive with a bad fuel pump, so it was only a few miles from home. And my fault.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
So my son was driving back from college today; 2012 Turbo with about 70,000 miles. Has had the turbo changed under warranty (about 25,000 miles) when the tube clogged up and starved it of oil. Two years ago the valve cover was changed and a few months more recently the intake to fix the PCV and oil use issues. Seems like there was something in the past year but I don't recall wearing a mask so maybe not ...

While driving on Highway 154 into Santa Barbara, he suddenly felt a loss of power and pulled over. Said the engine was really shaky, but I couldn't get him to say if it was shaky when running or shaky as it tried to start. Later he says he thinks it wasn't actually starting. About two hours after he originally pulled off the road, the decided to try to move it ... said it wouldn't go over 15 miles per hour (up hill). When I finally got there another 30 minutes after (same time tow truck finally arrived) I started it - engine started and ran smooth; seemed to have little power in the SHORT time (a few feet) I moved it; code set was P0299 low boost.

I have a hard time believing that a turbo with only about 50,000 miles, the new design oil tube, and religious oil changes with synthetic oil as soon as it hit 50% on the OLM would go bad. But I also have problems believing the PCV parts could go bad in less than two years. It is at Bunnin Chevrolet being diagnosed... anyone want to venture a guess as to what is actually wrong?

Winner gets the admiration of their peers!

Then I need to decide if I want to keep this car or sell it after repair. I love it when it runs right. GREAT mileage. Quiet. Comfortable. Nice radio. Large trunk. But I can't have a car for my son that gets him stuck! Opinions taken on this aspect as well.

For comparison, my 1999 Silverado has 227,000 miles on it, and has only gotten me stuck once; that was when I was trying to see how long I could drive with a bad fuel pump, so it was only a few miles from home. And my fault.
hmm
Edit. I've seen the charge pipe connected to the turbo collapse where it is rubber before it clamps to plastic.

boost solenoid, wastegate actuator preload (pin wear too excessive), waste gate actuator spring is weak, boost leak between turbo and throttle body. most common is connections to intercooler and at the throttle body.
 

Attachments

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
17,317 Posts
Guaranteed the dealer will throw a turbo at it, but it could be a blown valve cover again.

Before you agree to the [turbo] repair, please ask them to check this TSB:

You may also want to look into the PCV kit to improve the reliability of the car, and preemptively replace some of the cooling system parts like the water outlet/hose to the expansion tank that is known to crack.
www.cruzekits.com for the PCV fix kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Still waiting, if you can believe it! Initial diagnosis… bad harness related possibly to when the intake was changed a while back. They did not think it was the turbo itself, but the harness had to be ordered and was supposed to arrive the Monday two days ago.

I am hoping it is that…. Damage from others doesn’t mean unreliable design…

update hopefully today
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, this sucks. They changed the harness ... car stays running. But no power. They checked the turbo - no internal turbine. Bad cat. Lower compression on cylinder #1 (about 200 psi vs. 225 on 2, 3 and 4). Theory - bad cat sent metal piece through the turbo and into the engine. Car with only 70,000 miles, synthetic oil changes every 3500 miles or so (always by 50 percent on the OLM). I am disappointed to say the least. Next steps ... not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK ... I am doubting their theory now that I have thought about it more. eems more likely that the turbo failed again and knocked out the cat. Local dealer says compression sounds good and withinspec (actually higher than spec). Thinking of towing it home with my silverado ...
 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
17,317 Posts
Well, this sucks. They changed the harness ... car stays running. But no power. They checked the turbo - no internal turbine. Bad cat. Lower compression on cylinder #1 (about 200 psi vs. 225 on 2, 3 and 4). Theory - bad cat sent metal piece through the turbo and into the engine. Car with only 70,000 miles, synthetic oil changes every 3500 miles or so (always by 50 percent on the OLM). I am disappointed to say the least. Next steps ... not sure.
Cat is after the turbo. How would it send a metal piece into it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cat is after the turbo. How would it send a metal piece into it?
Yeah ... I was thinking that. Anyone know if the turbo is bad (missing impeller supposedly) ... can I drive the car so I can get it to my local dealer that I trust, or must it be towed?
 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
17,317 Posts
Yeah ... I was thinking that. Anyone know if the turbo is bad (missing impeller supposedly) ... can I drive the car so I can get it to my local dealer that I trust, or must it be towed?
Wouldn’t drive it. If the impellers missing it’s literally going to dump oil down the exhaust.

Also that definitely doesn’t happen often so wtf happened there??? Might want to check out the oil drain/supply lines. I do know some of the early oil supply lines without the foil piece would coke up and cause turbo failures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is there a way to tell if its really missing? I am beginning to doubt everything they have told me. What is the chance of having a triple failure - turbo, cat and engine harness- at once?
 

·
Administrator, Resident Tater Salad
Joined
·
17,317 Posts
Is there a way to tell if its really missing? I am beginning to doubt everything they have told me. What is the chance of having a triple failure - turbo, cat and engine harness- at once?
Very little. It sounds like they’re just throwing parts at it.

You can see it with an inspection mirror or borescope. It’d probably also smoke like it was on fire or rattle like crazy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Very little. It sounds like they’re just throwing parts at it.

You can see it with an inspection mirror or borescope. It’d probably also smoke like it was on fire or rattle like crazy.
No rattle even before the tow. No smoke.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 Cruze LT
Joined
·
3,255 Posts
Was the cat changed after the original turbo failure? I have a theory but it depends on this piece of information.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 Cruze LT
Joined
·
3,255 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: jblackburn

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What could kill a CAT like that? It was never really running bad, though there was a short period of excess oil consumption due to the PCV system ... only other oddity I can think of is the time my son drove over 100 MPH for a while late at night. Can high speed driving kill a CAT?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
What could kill a CAT like that? It was never really running bad, though there was a short period of excess oil consumption due to the PCV system ... only other oddity I can think of is the time my son drove over 100 MPH for a while late at night. Can high speed driving kill a CAT?
No that's not normal for a cat. I'm very confused by the turbine missing? or impeller? I can see the turbine wheel clear as day. it's not missing or damaged.

I don't care what gm says about that crack, the crack you have is bigger than what we normally see. I bet that thing opens up pretty good when it heats up. it is also cracked on top too. There has to be a threshold where the crack is too big 😂😂
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
817 Posts
Edit: the cat looks like it came loose from the housing and dropped down. that's not normal either... usually happens from an impact knocking it loose.

I can't really explain your cat... it's not melted like I normally see. strange. they get clogged or melted... yours looks like something was stuck in there and stirred it up. Maybe they are talking about the compressor wheel of the turbo? disconnect the wastegate actuator arm from the pivot pin. remove these 5 bolts...8mm I think. the housing will pull right off. don't remove it at an angle, you dont want to hit the wheel.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top