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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since we don't have any options for charge piping unless we replace the intercooler as well, I have decided to take it into my own hands.

First I am going to take a brand new stock pipe to a local engineering firm and have them digitize it and make one (aslong as cost isnt outrageous).

AND, I have already ordered everythign needed for what should be a very good DIY solution, that used the connection fron the stock pipe to connect to the intercooler.

Would anyone be interested in this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK theres one...lol I took the stock pipe to the shop today and the designers are drawing it up and will get me prices and drawings for the whole pipe from outlet to inlet, and for a replacement for just the rubber section. The design of the the inlet flange on the intercooler has them worried about how expensive the whole things might be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is what I have right now. These are parts that I bought online to build this myself. I am still having a firm atleast draw one up to see what a "professional" comes up with.

Vehicle Auto part Pipe Bicycle handlebar Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Because I live in one of the hottest climates in the country and my own research shows that the stock unit performs just as well as aftermarket ones. I cruise at about 8-9 degrees over ambient no matter what the temp is, and during a pull in 100 degree weather, I have actually had IAT2's go down a degree or two. The upgrade to metal charge pipes should help those temps another degree or two.

I dont think anyone really tested the stock unit very well, and those that did IMO while very reputable companies wanted to build a FMIC anyways. the only time i heat soak is at idle for more then 5 minutes. And even then, i am back to normal temps 5 minutes into my drive.
 

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Because I live in one of the hottest climates in the country and my own research shows that the stock unit performs just as well as aftermarket ones. I cruise at about 8-9 degrees over ambient no matter what the temp is, and during a pull in 100 degree weather, I have actually had IAT2's go down a degree or two. The upgrade to metal charge pipes should help those temps another degree or two.

I dont think anyone really tested the stock unit very well, and those that did IMO while very reputable companies wanted to build a FMIC anyways. the only time i heat soak is at idle for more then 5 minutes. And even then, i am back to normal temps 5 minutes into my drive.
Metal charge pipes help with heat over plastic?

Are you making the pipes out of Aluminum or Steel?

I am located in mid Florida, and running a ZZP intercooler kit. I don't have my exact data available at the moment to give you a example, but the ZZP definitely made a big difference in lower IATs versus stock intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The hot side isn't plastic it is rubber. The metal will help with heat and eliminate the expansion of the rubber hose. These two things should keep temps a bit lower, and possibly help the turbo lags a bit less. My pipe (the one in the pic) is aluminum. IF the company I have looking into decides to make some, they will more then likely be SS as it is cheaper and heat differences between it and aluminum at these type of temps won't be much. If I do a cold side, it will for sure be stainless.
 

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Yeah, my bad on stating that they are plastic. Was thinking of cold side pipe which is plastic. Hot side is rubber with the plastic coupler for the intercooler.

Well continue with the good work.

The intercooler upgrade was a good upgrade tho. Especially having it further away from the radiator.
 

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what is the diameter of the piping you used? would you happen to know what the max diameter would be to use? thinking of using bigger piping with the BNR turbo upgrade if I could....thanks for any information
 

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what is the diameter of the piping you used? would you happen to know what the max diameter would be to use? thinking of using bigger piping with the BNR turbo upgrade if I could....thanks for any information
I used 2.25" diameter piping because ZZP & CXRacing chose to use 2.25". I assume they chose 2.25" for a few reasons, but the bigger you go, the less lower end torque you'll have. I even noticed a little less lower end torque with this upgrade. It's subtle, but slightly noticeable. I don't think I'd go over 2.25". There's not much room to navigate the pipes. 2.5" may be too big for the available space, especially with the couplers and T-Bolt clams and drive ability may suffer on the lower end.
thoughts on sound/performance?
I didn't really notice any more sound. It definitely spools quicker and pulls harder. I was actually pleasantly surprised. However, I did have to go back to the OEM plastic elbows. There's just not enough plastic on the OEM intercooler inlet/outlet, so the couplers were blowing off under high boost.
 
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