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Amazon.com. You can order them singly or in a four pack. The four pack was cheaper but the prices do change daily.
 

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When you say "sluggish" what exactly are we talking about? The Cruze's 0-30 isn't bad. But the 25-30 usually leaves something to be desired. (Which is to say that from a dead stop it's fine, but in traffic, it can be really lackluster.) It seems the ECU is slow in executing a downshift to give you the power you need.

If you can anticipate the need, you can use the slap stick to drop a gear first - and then it takes right off.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
sluggish as in it's almost to the point of stalling out. Has the occasional sputter, and has substantially less power than when it was 60F weather here.
 

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I'll probably just deal with the ac issue when my wife complains. I don't like using the thing anyways, but i appreciate the heads up on the possible cause.
Believe it or not...I'm with you on this! For the 10 or so days you COULD use the ac here in the midwest it's just not worth the money or loss of power to me. In the 4-1/2 years I've had my Cruze and driving 380-400 miles a week, I can honestly say I have used the AC less than 20 times. FWIW, once I get my car up to speed it is flawless and cruises as good as the best of them (and that's on 87 - 89 max octane).
 

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I will stick with my Autolites double platinum with some meat on them for thermal conductivity that greatly helps with pre-ignition problems. And gaped to 26 mils.

Pumps around here say up to 10% ethanol whatever the hail this means, already got up to 0% ethanol using very low grade 80 octane fuel. Use only 91 octane not that the Cruze needs this, but is the only gas I can buy around here that is ethanol free.

I really am enjoying this warmer weather if I set the cruise at 65 mph can enjoy 46 mpg with my 2LT, paying as high as $4.50 a gallon for oxygen for this so-called winter gasoline. Another major problem is those short springs in the boots that can hang up in the shoulders, stretching them out about 3/8" prevents this, and look at all four so the ends of the springs are sticking out. Can tilt the coil module to see if the springs are seated properly on the plugs.

Brag all you want about NGK's, already had ceramic seal problems with these piece of crap causing blowby. I have the proper test equipment to test stuff like this. Also 30 years experience in designed ignition modules.

But do whatever you want to do. No skin off my nose, but always tests plugs before putting them in, regardless. Spark plugs have a 110 year old history, still clean them every 15-20K, still burning carbon that builds up on that center electrode giving a path to ground, carbon is highly conductive.


Ha, after 110 years, nobody has found a better way, but sure has been a bunch of worthless patents on this issue. Also put a thin coat of anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease inside the boots. Former prevent electrolysis from binding steel to aluminum, another stupid idea, latter prevents the boots from baking on the plugs. No way to get on the end of those boots to pull them out, and like a Chinese finger puzzle, harder you pull the harder they grip.

But do it your way.
 

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Mazda claims to have a gasoline engine with a 16:1 compression that ignites the fuel without the use of spark plugs.


Sent from the sexy electrician
 

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Mazda claims to have a gasoline engine with a 16:1 compression that ignites the fuel without the use of spark plugs.


Sent from the sexy electrician
I've always wondered why they haven't tried this before. Harder to control than a diesel burn maybe? Too much variation? Hmm.
 

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I have a 2011 and a 2012 Cruze. Both have 1.4's. Same fuel (91 Octane), same spark plugs, both with around 90K miles. The 2011 seems to just run better in the heat, but both struggle a good bit when the temps get above 105. When it is around 115, both cars struggle a good bit under 2500 rpm. They idle great, no sputtering, but just no power and it feels like it takes a long time for the turbo to spool and get going.

Phoenix summers FTL.
 

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sluggish as in it's almost to the point of stalling out. Has the occasional sputter, and has substantially less power than when it was 60F weather here.
I wonder if you have a vacuum leak that isn't large enough to set the P0171 code. Sitting at idle the only time I've had this type of problem was shortly before my car set the P0171 lean code.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I wonder if you have a vacuum leak that isn't large enough to set the P0171 code. Sitting at idle the only time I've had this type of problem was shortly before my car set the P0171 lean code.
I was wondering this too, but it's gotta be a small one, because no codes have popped up, and I couldn't find anything on any of the vacuum lines I could find. Either way, that one has me thinking it might be the issue. Going to call the dealership Monday and see how bad they want to rob me to look at it.
 

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the oldschool way, pulling hoses and putting plugs on. How else? Is this just redneck logic I picked up through the years, or do other people do that?
 

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Just a thought - reseat your oil dipstick.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Just a thought - reseat your oil dipstick.


Just tried that one, we'll see how it goes tomorrow. So far, I’ve gapped the plugs, checked every vac line I can find, added about a shot glass worth of coolant, and put in about a quarter of a tank of octane 91 gas(best they had near the house) and so far nothing is making a difference. I've scheduled an appointment for Friday with the dealership, mostly so I can bitch to someone, and plan on putting some more premium gas as soon as I burn down more of the tank. Guess we'll see how this week goes.
 

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put in about a quarter of a tank of octane 91 gas(best they had near the house) and so far nothing is making a difference.

A 1/4 tank will not raise the octane enough, you should have ran the tank lower. Even at half tank mixing 87 and 91 would only make 89 octane midgrade. I would recommend continuing using premium the next few tanks, but wait until 1/4 tank or less left before you fill up next time.
 

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Bones,

If you haven't gotten the ECU recall done, get it done. This recall appears to also assist in hot weather.
It's funny I just realized I had the PI# for this forever, Is this the one they are using for this situation? #PI1052: Hesitation at high ambient temperature?
 

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It's funny I just realized I had the PI# for this forever, Is this the one they are using for this situation? #PI1052: Hesitation at high ambient temperature?
No, we're talking about the one that came out in April for 2011-2014 1.4T Automatics. It's an emissions recall, but it's believed to make the early cars run more like the 2014 when it comes to 87 octane.

It's discussed in this thread: Dealer says there is recall coming

It's possible that one contains the prior bulletin you're referencing.

It's a recall, so it's free regardless of warranty.
 
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