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Been reported in Wisconsin that over 3,500 gas stations have water in the gas. While other states are complaining about droughts, won't quit raining here. Sure had a major downpour yesterday.

Many of our airports had to switch to above ground tanks, put a huge fence around them with huge NO SMOKING signs, but gather its okay to use an acetylene torch.

When fuel injection came around, first tool I had to buy was one like this.



A good fuel pressure tester, water in the gas is an age old problem, in older vehicles used a glass bowl in the fuel line so you can see the water in that bowl, even had a drain on it, got rid of this, but not the problem.

With the fuel pump test with that clear hose, well I use a two quart Manson jar, hot wire the fuel pump, press on that release valve so you quickly learn if you have water in your gas. This really causes misfires and all the new spark plugs won't cure this. Yeah, I use a funnel and pour the good fuel back into the tank.

Another problem with ethanol is getting a bad mix with nothing but super low octane gas left, but doesn't cause misfires, but sure causes detonation, new problems we never had before.

When I run across crap like this, file a complaint with my credit card company, usually get a full refund, but still have the problem, could run the tank dry and pour in only the top using five gallon cans. But toss in a can of Seafoam that helps, and burn that crap out of it.

But letting the tank settle and using the fuel pump tester, water is heavier than gas, so with hot wiring the fuel pump, can get most of it out. Fuel pickup is at the bottom of the tank. Not saying this is your problem but could well be.

Still old school with engines, fuel, compression, ignition, ignition and valve timing, sure running into a bunch of idiots lately, no your brake pedal isn't low, ain't getting a code, what AH's for lack of a better word. But do need a scanner because don't know if I get a check engine light if its a loose gap cap or a failed EGR that can burn up the engine. Cruze ain't got an EGR, this is good.

Checking crankcase vacuum is new to me, never was done before, but is now. Use a rubber cone in the dipstick with my vacuum gauge. Should show around 18"/Hg at idle. Finding leaks is not new either, compressed air sure helps with leak down tests. Spraying with starter fluid is a great way to get burnt alive.

Think the word is common sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I doubt it's water in my fuel, the places I fill up haven't flooded since Tropical Storm Allison(about 14 years ago) But it could be a possibility. I'm also starting to wonder if the dealership i got it from installed the radiator and intercooler correctly after the dog incident(details in my gallery). It's running like a mild version of how it ran when I limped it home with the cooling system destroyed. Probably just something I'll have to deal with till I can afford to replace the car, but that could all change with the dealership appointment on Friday. As for running it down to a quarter tank, sorry, I've been trained not to do that during hurricane season,
 

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No, we're talking about the one that came out in April for 2011-2014 1.4T Automatics. It's an emissions recall, but it's believed to make the early cars run more like the 2014 when it comes to 87 octane.

It's discussed in this thread: Dealer says there is recall coming

It's possible that one contains the prior bulletin you're referencing.

It's a recall, so it's free regardless of warranty.
So they aren't the same. I tried for years to get that PI# done and ended up swapping plugs and getting in on a group buy for a tune to fix it.


I'm a 6MT so it wouldn't work for me to try that recall.
 

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The ECU reflash is only for the automatics. The manuals have a different ECU programming.
 

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my 2012 runs great here in the florida heat,especially after the ecu reflash,but in the last few weeks in the plus 100 degree heat,after I shut my engine off my fan has been running around 5 to 10 minutes cooling off my turbo
we really need a larger intercooler
 

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my 2012 runs great here in the florida heat,especially after the ecu reflash,but in the last few weeks in the plus 100 degree heat,after I shut my engine off my fan has been running around 5 to 10 minutes cooling off my turbo
we really need a larger intercooler
That's part of the software update - it is put in place to help keep oil from coking in the turbo return lines.

The intercooler works fine if the car is moving down the road - it's just sandwiched between the hot AC condensor and hot radiator, so heat soaks like crazy at a stop.
 

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Ya the Cruze Sucks when its 80f and up that for sure! JBlackburn I wonder if we put in an aftermarket Pusher fan in to help with heat soak ?!
Some tuners kick the radiator fan up a speed or two. But I don't think it would do much good if it's still pulling really hot air through the AC condenser and radiator.

If you had an aftermarket inter cooler with a fan behind it, kinda like people do with off road transmission coolers, that would probably help.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well, Just got back from my appointment with the dealership, and I can atleast say the service staff were helpful and saved me some money. Rather than charge me the $125 diagnosis fee, the guy I was working with opted to ride with me and tell me whether it was performing as usual, or if he noticed anything wrong. Atleast I didn't have to pay anything. Per the service dude, the car is performing the way all of the cruzes on the lot perform. Sadly to me, this means that I'm stuck with a car that can't perform to a level that feels correct to me until I can afford to get rid of the 2013 LT. So basically I have a paid in full disappointment that runs sloppy and weak as **** in the weather that we have for 3/4 of the year down here. Needless to say, I'm never making the mistake of buying a small turbocharged engine ever again. Sorry this sounds all negative, but I was really hoping this was something fixable, so it's got me a little riled up.
 

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Well, Just got back from my appointment with the dealership, and I can atleast say the service staff were helpful and saved me some money. Rather than charge me the $125 diagnosis fee, the guy I was working with opted to ride with me and tell me whether it was performing as usual, or if he noticed anything wrong. Atleast I didn't have to pay anything. Per the service dude, the car is performing the way all of the cruzes on the lot perform. Sadly to me, this means that I'm stuck with a car that can't perform to a level that feels correct to me until I can afford to get rid of the 2013 LT. So basically I have a paid in full disappointment that runs sloppy and weak as **** in the weather that we have for 3/4 of the year down here. Needless to say, I'm never making the mistake of buying a small turbocharged engine ever again. Sorry this sounds all negative, but I was really hoping this was something fixable, so it's got me a little riled up.
It is fixable. See our Hestitation...Gone thread.

Throw out the useless crap stock spark plugs and change them for the BKR7E-4644 plugs for $10 and see if you notice a change in drivability. If that works, after summer's over, change up to the BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium) plugs that are slightly more pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
If I trusted the car to make the I10 East trip, I'd do that. They'd cover the fee under warranty here too if there was an issue, but the guy was so confident that this is just how they run here that he even offered to let me test drive other Cruze's on the lot to show me that they all run this way. I declined because I didn't want to get more aggravated. I was never expecting power out of this car, just a smooth running engine, and I got neither. Sorry i'm venting so much at you, just agitated.
 

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Bones, do what jblackburn suggested. I have run both of those plugs in my 2012 ECO MT in the Denver high altitude heat and there's a big difference. The OEM plugs are designed for longevity, not for drivability.
 

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I was never expecting power out of this car, just a smooth running engine, and I got neither. Sorry i'm venting so much at you, just agitated.
Lack of power is one thing, but "rough" is another. Under what conditions is it running rough? While it can lack power and make you nervous about passing or on-ramps, it should never give you doubts about being able to make a road trip and get you back home.

I notice looking at your posts that the car's been in a accident. It might be worth looking at the Service Tech, know it all = fail thread - his intercooler pipe popped off leaving him with no boost. But the ECM did a good job of compensating for it. So I'm wondering if when your car was fixed they failed to get it connected properly and you're running a 1.4NA instead of the 1.4T you bought.
 

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I would agree that something els is wrong. We have temps in the 80s and 90s, and I run 89 octane on the stock plugs. I get the slow response when trying to dart across an intersection, but after about a 1 second delay the turbo kicks in and not too many people would consider the acceleration that takes place as dangerous.
 

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I get the slow response when trying to dart across an intersection, but after about a 1 second delay the turbo kicks in and not too many people would consider the acceleration that takes place as dangerous.
Yeah, my experience has been that when you hit the accelerator, it seems like the ECM tries to ask for more torque, doesn't get it, and finally gives up and commands a downshift and you're on your way. The driver's impression is that the car ignores you for that one second. It's dangerous only if your driving habits are tuned for a muscle car that will leap on command.

Some have referred to spark blow out that can happen under some conditions - but that's a clue to switch plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
As for the repair, I've double checked it, (dealership didn't want to look at it without charging me, so screw that) but nothing looks out of place. Everything looks like it's holding. as for the rough running, it shifts hard as **** and shakes a bit when you have the accelerator all the way down(only way to make that car merge onto the freeway) With all of that, it feels like it's a ticking time bomb waiting to destroy itself. Again, the people at the dealership said it's functioning like every other cruze on the lot(he even said that i'm lucky i don't have the sonic, because it's even worse.) at about 94 outside, it's just slow, bogged down, and unresponsive in the acceleration department. all this week we started getting up a little higher (today is about 98ish) and it pulls the extra rough stuff then. Feels like when it shifts that it's trying to reach the right RPM to hit the shift point the computer wants and just can't quite make it till it finally gets over the hump. During the time of the appointment it was high 80s out, so it wasn't as severe, and i tried to get an appointment around noon, but they just couldn't make it happen. At this point, i've pretty much decided to quit worrying about it, and drive it till it breaks. If it dies mid merge on the freeway, hopefully all those airbags that are in this thing will work. I'm more than done with this car. Last time I had a car that acted up like this, the dealerships fleeced me anyways, didn't find the issue, and I eventually got it sorted out myself.


Edit: Keep in mind, the terms Rough, Sluggish etc are all in relation to how it drove in October when I got it, Both before and after the accident.(ran the same at that point) For the Shifting issue that's developed, Hard as **** is not an exaggeration in relation to how every other automatic i've ever been in has shifted. Feels like a little version of when you stomp the gas in a car with a large engine with high torque and you get that seat slam action. Sorry had to add a bit of explanation, because sometimes my language gets a bit colourful.


Edit again: the drive it till it breaks comment is entirely just me being mad. Sorry about that, but this thing has me all kinds of worked up. If it wasn't my only car, I probably would have it all taken apart right now,sold it, or shot it out of anger. more than likely I'll just have to keep driving it till I can afford something else, or until it starts throwing codes. Even my old Dynasty ran better than this, and it was a $500 car with a bunch of parts missing or rigged on.

Again, sorry for the aggravation/anger towards the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
If this thing had a bored out 350 under the hood, I wouldn't be so pissed about running 100 octane. but burnin high octane just to get dust thrown in my face by every for focus in town leaves a bad taste in my mouth
 

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If this thing had a bored out 350 under the hood, I wouldn't be so pissed about running 100 octane. but burnin high octane just to get dust thrown in my face by every for focus in town leaves a bad taste in my mouth
This is why GM's marketing division insisted that Chevy's engineers figure out how to make an engine designed for 91 octane (KRD code) safely run on 87 octane. However, I suspect your problem isn't related so much to octane as it is heat soak and spark plugs that don't dissipate heat very well. There's nothing you can do about the heat soak but you can go with a better spark plug.
 
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