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Discussion Starter · #1 ·




Hi guys, this is NOT a leak, i accidentally spilled some oil around the cap and would like to fully remove so i can clean. The circled clip comes off and that piece comes out but the base is like screwed in or something, any ideas?


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could the base just maybe screws out of there with maybe a half twist or something. I have 2011 and I don't have that but I know it was added on later models. I am thinking it is maybe just locked in there with a twist and some plastic pieces just lock into the original opening just like the cap fits in the original opening on my 2011. keep us posted
 

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Hold a cloth against it and douse it with brake clean.......avoid disrupting the seal or you may create an endless leak.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hold a cloth against it and douse it with brake clean.......avoid disrupting the seal or you may create an endless leak.

Rob
I tried twisting it just a little and now it seems a little loose, do i have a problem?


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There's a collar around the neck with that little downward facing square. Your arrow is facing the lock for the collar. I don't recall if there's a second lock opposite the arrow. Once the lock/s are free, the collar will slide up on the vertical ribs, and you'll be able to turn the neck out. The neck has rubber baffles that make it too easy to flood oil over the neck. FWIW I just cleaned mine up with compressed air and brakeclean. It did take a couple of times. I thought it was clean, but it kept weeping oil until cleaned a second time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There's a collar around the neck with that little downward facing square. Your arrow is facing the lock for the collar. I don't recall if there's a second lock opposite the arrow. Once the lock/s are free, the collar will slide up on the vertical ribs, and you'll be able to turn the neck out. The neck has rubber baffles that make it too easy to flood oil over the neck. FWIW I just cleaned mine up with compressed air and brakeclean. It did take a couple of times. I thought it was clean, but it kept weeping oil until cleaned a second time.
Thanks for the input. In which direction does that bottom base turn? In perspective of standing facing the engine


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Thanks for the input. In which direction does that bottom base turn? In perspective of standing facing the engine


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That square is a lock to keep it from turning out. It should turn out counter-clockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
could the base just maybe screws out of there with maybe a half twist or something. I have 2011 and I don't have that but I know it was added on later models. I am thinking it is maybe just locked in there with a twist and some plastic pieces just lock into the original opening just like the cap fits in the original opening on my 2011. keep us posted
Success! The base easily detached and i was thoroughly able to clean careful not to get brake cleaner inside! However when i tighten it still seems loose?


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There's a collar around the neck with that little downward facing square. Your arrow is facing the lock for the collar. I don't recall if there's a second lock opposite the arrow. Once the lock/s are free, the collar will slide up on the vertical ribs, and you'll be able to turn the neck out. The neck has rubber baffles that make it too easy to flood oil over the neck. FWIW I just cleaned mine up with compressed air and brakeclean. It did take a couple of times. I thought it was clean, but it kept weeping oil until cleaned a second time.
In an effort to avoid the possible mess with the extension tube, I was wondering if during an oil and filter change it would be easier to pour in the new oil through the oil filter housing using a funnel rather than through the valve cover tube, and then install the filter after the oil has been filled to the correct level? I guess it would depend on how fast the flow through the filter housing is as to whether or not such a method would be easier. ??
 

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In an effort to avoid the possible mess with the extension tube, I was wondering if during an oil and filter change it would be easier to pour in the new oil through the oil filter housing using a funnel rather than through the valve cover tube, and then install the filter after the oil has been filled to the correct level? I guess it would depend on how fast the flow through the filter housing is as to whether or not such a method would be easier. ??
Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

IDK, I have never tried that.

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In an effort to avoid the possible mess with the extension tube, I was wondering if during an oil and filter change it would be easier to pour in the new oil through the oil filter housing using a funnel rather than through the valve cover tube, and then install the filter after the oil has been filled to the correct level? I guess it would depend on how fast the flow through the filter housing is as to whether or not such a method would be easier. ??
That sounds like a pain. Maybe just a long skinnyish funnel that you can push past the baffles. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-75-068...55985&s=gateway&sprefix=transm,aps,162&sr=8-3
 

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That sounds like a pain. Maybe just a long skinnyish funnel that you can push past the baffles. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-75-068...55985&s=gateway&sprefix=transm,aps,162&sr=8-3
Yes, using such a funnel snaked through the baffles would probably be best. Although I did notice when sticking my finger around and down through the baffles that there is a cam lobe in the middle of the oil filler hole close to the valve cover which would restrict the inflow of oil just a tad, and perhaps that oil spraying cam lobe being so close to the hole may have been part of the reason why Buick improved the set up when changing to the tube extension baffle. In any case, just being patient and slowly pouring the oil in should do the trick. I guess I was spoiled by my quick pour other cars.:eek:
 
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