How do you move a power drivers seat to remove from Salvage Car?
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Joined
·
28 Posts
Any chance that car has the a pillar trim pieces?
Joined
·
84 Posts
What year?
On my 2018 it looks like you could get to the seat wiring harness unless the seat is almost all the way forward. Might be a little easier to apply power to the seat connector directly if you can get to it and find the pinouts.
On my 2018 it looks like you could get to the seat wiring harness unless the seat is almost all the way forward. Might be a little easier to apply power to the seat connector directly if you can get to it and find the pinouts.
What are you refering to here? Is there some connector behind the windshield garnish that has something to do with the seat?
That is what I thought, as that is what I was trying to accomplish yesterday. I brought in the battery from my car to connect under the hood, but that part of the harness was trashed.
I then tried to reach under the seat to see if I could find the connector. I have to back track here a moment, I removed the passenger seat the week before and ran out of time to continue, so luckily when I returned, the rest of the seats were still there. The only changes were someone broke the drivers window to get the drivers mirror shell cover off - go figure (the door would not open), the front door panels were removed and someone trashed the engine to remove the valve cover.
So this brings me back to yesterday, with the seat covering the bolts, I thought I could powerup via the connector, but I could not feel it, from the front or the back. I removed the center console and everything else to get better access. After giving up and starting to strip the seat back of its cover, a gentleman stopped by and ask for information on removing the sail panel garnishes (the fake rear windows) and after I explained what I do and loaning him a tool to do it, he asked why I did'nt open the door?
I told him I couldn't budge the door the previous week, it was smashed a bit, so I did't even try. He reached in through the smashed window and pulled on the cable normally connected to the release mechanism and walla, the door opened. I still could'nt reach anything though.
I asked Carbon02 for some insight and in his response he mention the trap door and I hit an aha moment. I had completely forgotten about how I had disconnected the passenger seat the week before.
I see one more trek north to the junkyard.
I am guessing I would need to remove the fuse block to find these two wires. I will probably go back on Monday to see if I can accomplish this. I'll have to bring a small assortment of wire, clips and pins to give it a try. On another note, do you remember how the seat rest well/clip is removed?
Does anyone have pictures of the back of the interior fuse block? Or maybe a trick to power this up?
Thanks all for the information
Robert
Joined
·
84 Posts
Hmmm that is a pickle indeed. Still not sure what year yours is and how that would impact wiring. I was about to suggest one of those jump pack boxes for temporary power (I bought the little lithium ion almost pocket sized one from harbor freight and I love it, amazing how easily it can start a car) but sounds like you've already tried power in the traditional sense and hit a dead end.
I know on most cars I've been in the seats are a constantly powered up item so you probably don't have much to risk by trying to jump 12v power to the fuse panel on that particular circuit.
Of course I'm also thinking of ways you could get that seat out without needing power. For example is the bottom of the bolt visible from under the car? If so you might be able to back them out with a big pair of vice grips from underneath (and probably count on using your original bolts to install afterwards)
I know on most cars I've been in the seats are a constantly powered up item so you probably don't have much to risk by trying to jump 12v power to the fuse panel on that particular circuit.
Of course I'm also thinking of ways you could get that seat out without needing power. For example is the bottom of the bolt visible from under the car? If so you might be able to back them out with a big pair of vice grips from underneath (and probably count on using your original bolts to install afterwards)
Joined
·
84 Posts
BTW I was just looking through my ford factory wiring diagram book for my escape and it is incredible; shows every single pin and connector imaginable. I just wish I could find a wiring manual this comprehensive for the Cruze....
Joined
·
28 Posts
Negative, I was asking about the a pillar trim piece because I've been looking for some to put some tweeters in and rather not use my stock ones in case I mess up hah
I'm not an electrician, so don't try this on your car, and I'm not responsible for any damage. With that said, assuming we're working at a U-Pull yard where nearly anything goes this is what I'd try.
On the top of the battery there is an electrical assembly snapped to the top. snap open the plastic on the top of this assembly. The main red battery positive enters the assembly and there are four circuit breakers on the top. These are the breakers shown in the drawing attached above. With a jump pack I would put 12V positive on each of the 100 Amp fuses. For safety I would fuse your jumper leads as to not cause a fire. You don't know how many wires are cut by previous people, and there could be shorts to ground somewhere.
The negative from the jump pack would go to chassis ground. I think you could ground it out to ground stud near the driver side strut tower.
In theory this would provide power to the interior fuse box. The interior fuse box is powered normally with engine off key removed. This powering circuits 5040 and 5140 mentioned above.
On the top of the battery there is an electrical assembly snapped to the top. snap open the plastic on the top of this assembly. The main red battery positive enters the assembly and there are four circuit breakers on the top. These are the breakers shown in the drawing attached above. With a jump pack I would put 12V positive on each of the 100 Amp fuses. For safety I would fuse your jumper leads as to not cause a fire. You don't know how many wires are cut by previous people, and there could be shorts to ground somewhere.
The negative from the jump pack would go to chassis ground. I think you could ground it out to ground stud near the driver side strut tower.
In theory this would provide power to the interior fuse box. The interior fuse box is powered normally with engine off key removed. This powering circuits 5040 and 5140 mentioned above.
Several years ago I put some pictures up at the following website. Due to restrictions on my computer I can't e-mail pictures or even use USB jump drives.
I believe I sent these pictures to Blasirl a year or so ago. The way I have it set up is that you should be able to see view and download photo's in this directory without having to create a shutterfly account.
Shutterfly accounts are free, and I'm sure everyone has a junk e-mail account that they can use for this kind of stuff.
I want to help, but I don't have the time to reformat pictures for posting directly on this site, and unfortunately use of google to send files as attachment's isn't an option either.
https://2012cruze.shutterfly.com/pictures/8
Give it a try and see if you can see these files
I believe I sent these pictures to Blasirl a year or so ago. The way I have it set up is that you should be able to see view and download photo's in this directory without having to create a shutterfly account.
Shutterfly accounts are free, and I'm sure everyone has a junk e-mail account that they can use for this kind of stuff.
I want to help, but I don't have the time to reformat pictures for posting directly on this site, and unfortunately use of google to send files as attachment's isn't an option either.
https://2012cruze.shutterfly.com/pictures/8
Give it a try and see if you can see these files
I have a 2014. You cannot see anything to do with the seats under the vehicle. I had the same thought. If they had allowed it, I considered torching the seat out, but my luck, I would have burned it anyway.
I have also been looking for some time.
Most of the underhood wiring is either gone or damaged. The fuse block is missing just about everything.
This is my rendition of my fuse block. Now that I am looking at it, I do not see the 100A fuses, so I will need to find another view. i may be able to jump them there, way easier than reaching under the seat in the glass.
Where are you located. I could probably get a set for next to nothing. At the moment, I am planning on returning to the yard in the morning barring any unforseen circumstances. If your willing to pay whatever it costs me and shipping, let me know today sometime.
You can see the files, but need an account to download. I will try and look for the ones I resized. If it is ok with you, I will edit your post and insert them - when I get more time.
Here is what I think you are referring too though, I prt sc'd it.
Yes--
I believe one of those fuses, goes down and powers the fusebox inside the car.
The one you have pictured, I don't know if I'd try powering from there.
You might try applying 12V inside the instrument panel fuse box, but I think that would be a little more difficult.
Not sure that you noticed, but the wires are labeled 1,2,3 and the terminals are labeled 1,2,3,4 with 1 being the connection closest to the battery post.
If someone has ripped things apart t he top of the box might be disconnected, but I think you would be able to find those three red power wires.
I believe one of those fuses, goes down and powers the fusebox inside the car.
The one you have pictured, I don't know if I'd try powering from there.
You might try applying 12V inside the instrument panel fuse box, but I think that would be a little more difficult.
Not sure that you noticed, but the wires are labeled 1,2,3 and the terminals are labeled 1,2,3,4 with 1 being the connection closest to the battery post.
If someone has ripped things apart t he top of the box might be disconnected, but I think you would be able to find those three red power wires.
I completely forgot about this thread. I ended up using a 18v dewalt battery, some stak-on terminals and some wire and painstakenly touched the terminals on the underseat connectors. eventually we (my son and I) discovered the correct motor and then the correct direction. After that the seat came out like a charm. I still need to someday figure out the heated seat connections though.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
