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For information on programming and installing a MyLink radio in a car that had the base green screen radio, see this post:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...ck-dirty-mylink-upgrade-diy-gen-1-cruzes.html
If you don't want to build the harness and program the radio yourself, see this post:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/55641-mylink-upgrade-diy.html
For information on disassembling the radio and programming your VIN, see this link.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...224625-how-disassemble-radio-program-vin.html
This thread describes how I made a wiring harness to install a MyLink radio into a car that had the base green screen radio. I decided to write this post as "how I" instead of "how to" because there are many different ways to do this. I am not going to give every single detail about how I did it. You will need to use a little of your own imagination and creativity.
To create a wiring harness, you will need good soldering skills and you will need to have some experience with wiring and crimping tiny connectors.
When I built my harness, I decided that I wanted to be able to switch back to the original radio if I ever felt like it. This means that I needed more connectors so that the original wiring would remain intact. It is possible to do this project permanently, and that could possibly save money on connectors and time on building the harness.
To start, this is the wiring diagram I used.
A couple notes on the diagram:
1- I have the Pioneer premium sound system, and Pin 43 on the X1 connector is used as the remote enable signal for both the touch screen and the amplifier in the trunk.
2- The body harness on my car has all of the wiring for the backup camera. I just needed to add the wiring between the radio and the body harness and between the camera and the body harness.
3- The power for the radio controls and the touch screen both connect to the same wiring in the dash harness and both connect to the same fuse.
Twinax Cable. This would be very hard to build, so I purchased it on Amazon with free Prime shipping. This sends the video signal to the touch screen. I paid $20.73. I noticed the price fluctuates a lot on this item.
Search for ACDelco 20781772
USB Cable. This would also be very hard to build, so I purchased in on Amazon with free Prime shipping. I paid $15 for this. ACDelco 19118736
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SIW6RA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found out that the USB cable from the center console wiring harness can be unplugged behind the Multimedia Player Interface Module (AKA PDIM). The new USB plug for the radio plugged directly into the original USB cable in the center console wiring harness.
Radio X1 Connector
The X1 connector is the large 44 pin connector on the back of the radio. In order to retain the car's original wiring, I used a connector similar to what is used with the PAC Line Out Converter. I only changed the wires that are indicated in the wiring diagram and left the rest alone.
The PAC LOC can be found on Amazon with Prime shipping. This is what I used because the quality seems to be very good.
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-AA-GM44-...=UTF8&qid=1491668328&sr=8-1&keywords=pac+gm44
Here is a similar connector.
Stereo Add An Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to OEM Factory Radio for some GM | eBay
Radio X2 Connector
The X2 connector is the smaller 20 pin connector on the back of the radio. The original radio does not have an X2 connector. I purchased this on Mouser for $1.53. There is a small black tab on the bottom of this connector that I needed to cut off in order to make it fit into the radio connector, but otherwise it works perfectly.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKjU01SLEgwTpuRfzm3jiqbA=
8 pins are also required. I purchased 30 pins just in case I screwed up, and they are only about 4 cents each.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKnLUUhtImXeWLDWi2Fbrz/g=
Info Display Connector
I had a hard time finding the correct connector and pins for this, so I just bought the ACDelco pigtail on Amazon with free prime shipping. It is ACDelco part number PT2558. I paid $13.96 for this. Amazon usually only has one in stock at a time, so if it's not available, check back a few days later and they may have received another.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00558RS0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio Controls Connector
I also had a hard time finding this connector and pins, so I purchased the ACDelco pigtail on Amazon. It is ACDelco part number PT2680. I paid $22.11 for this. Amazon usually only has one in stock at a time, so if it's not available, check back a few days later and they may have received another.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OVA6JU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power and ground for Radio Control and Info Display
Since the power and ground for both of these connectors use the same wires in the dash harness, and they connect to the same fuse, I decided to tap into them by inserting pins into pins 1 and 2 on the original info display connector. I used some leftover pins from the PAC LOC connector that was used for the Radio X1 harness. I built my own connector by inserting the pins into the connector and covering them with hot glue. Then I ran wires to pins 1 and 2 on the new Info Display connector and Radio Controls connector.
Voice Recognition Signal - Telematics Communications (OnStar) Control Module X2 Connector
I needed to add 3 pins to the OnStar X2 connector to add the voice recognition and phone audio signal to the radio. I bought these on Mouser. These are Delphi connectors part number 15445904. They cost about 15 cents each.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKiAPJPX6chA8A2XQFMx5WWI=
The X2 connector on the Onstar module has a small plastic square on one side. I used a small screwdriver to pull the square up, and it unlocked the pins so that I could insert the new pins.
The Onstar module is hard to find and get access to add the wires. See the thread below for more information on accessing the Onstar module. After you remove the screws for the module, you can lift it upward a little and it will come out. You can drop the module down below to access the connectors. There are three connectors on the back of the module. One of them is empty. The middle connector is the X2 connector.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/137-gen1-audio-electrical-tutorials/5682-how-disable-onstar.html
Backup Camera
I looked in my car and found out that the body harness has all of the wiring for the camera already there. The only thing I needed was to add wires from the radio to the X200 body harness connector, and wires from the X900 body harness connector to the camera.
X200 body harness connector: I purchased the terminated lead from GM parts site for about $5 each. These are GM part number 13575546. On this harness, pin 6 is camera signal+, Pin 7 is Camera signal-, and pin 18 is camera drain wire. To insert the pins, I needed to remove the gray plastic piece on one side. This unlocks the pins so that I could insert the new pins.
EDIT: I added another post below that explains how to open the X200 connector.
X900 body harness connector. I personally decided to buy the trunk lid harness from a GM parts site (part number 94556229). This cost about $43 plus about $10 for shipping, but it made it super easy to install the rear camera, and it looks like it was installed from the factory. I also bought the full rear chrome bar with the camera in it on ebay. Without this complete harness, I would have needed to run 6 wires from the body harness to the camera.
Auxiliary Input Connector
I also had to run new wires from the Aux input plug in the center console to the X1 connector on the radio. I purchased a used center console wiring harness on eBay. I used the Aux plug and the Aux wires from the used eBay console harness. I cut off the connector on the other end of the used eBay harness and added a generic molex connector that I purchased on eBay. I put the other side of that molex connector on the wires coming from the radio. Then I just plugged it all together.
Wire
For most of the wiring I just purchased some 22 gauge stranded wire from Frys. Cost was about $5. I made the wires for the controls and display the same length as the Twinax cable, which is about 16 inches. It was longer than needed, but it worked ok.
For the shielded wire, I used this. It's a little stiff, but it worked. Cost was $16 with shipping for 25 feet.
25' Belden 1800B T5X 2 Conductor 24 Gauge AES/EBU Digital Audio Cable 2C 24AWG | eBay
Tape
To make everything look nice, I wrapped all of the wiring in fuzzy fleece tape. This also reduces the chance of rattles in the dash. I also covered all of the original connectors in this tape to reduce rattles. This looks identical to the tape used on the wire harnesses in the Cruze. Cost was $4.99.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN6B9R6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then I just wired everything together using the wiring diagram.
Total Cost
My total cost for the wiring in the dash (what MVI provides) was about $135. With the camera wiring and trunk harness, the total was about $200.
To reduce this cost further, it would have been possible to save money on the info display and controls connectors. Someone may be able to find these on Mouser, or it could be possible to get them out of a wrecked car. It would also reduce the cost a lot if you added your own wires to the trunk harness.
Before and After:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...ck-dirty-mylink-upgrade-diy-gen-1-cruzes.html
If you don't want to build the harness and program the radio yourself, see this post:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/55641-mylink-upgrade-diy.html
For information on disassembling the radio and programming your VIN, see this link.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...224625-how-disassemble-radio-program-vin.html
This thread describes how I made a wiring harness to install a MyLink radio into a car that had the base green screen radio. I decided to write this post as "how I" instead of "how to" because there are many different ways to do this. I am not going to give every single detail about how I did it. You will need to use a little of your own imagination and creativity.
To create a wiring harness, you will need good soldering skills and you will need to have some experience with wiring and crimping tiny connectors.
When I built my harness, I decided that I wanted to be able to switch back to the original radio if I ever felt like it. This means that I needed more connectors so that the original wiring would remain intact. It is possible to do this project permanently, and that could possibly save money on connectors and time on building the harness.
To start, this is the wiring diagram I used.

A couple notes on the diagram:
1- I have the Pioneer premium sound system, and Pin 43 on the X1 connector is used as the remote enable signal for both the touch screen and the amplifier in the trunk.
2- The body harness on my car has all of the wiring for the backup camera. I just needed to add the wiring between the radio and the body harness and between the camera and the body harness.
3- The power for the radio controls and the touch screen both connect to the same wiring in the dash harness and both connect to the same fuse.
Twinax Cable. This would be very hard to build, so I purchased it on Amazon with free Prime shipping. This sends the video signal to the touch screen. I paid $20.73. I noticed the price fluctuates a lot on this item.
Search for ACDelco 20781772
USB Cable. This would also be very hard to build, so I purchased in on Amazon with free Prime shipping. I paid $15 for this. ACDelco 19118736
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SIW6RA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found out that the USB cable from the center console wiring harness can be unplugged behind the Multimedia Player Interface Module (AKA PDIM). The new USB plug for the radio plugged directly into the original USB cable in the center console wiring harness.
Radio X1 Connector
The X1 connector is the large 44 pin connector on the back of the radio. In order to retain the car's original wiring, I used a connector similar to what is used with the PAC Line Out Converter. I only changed the wires that are indicated in the wiring diagram and left the rest alone.
The PAC LOC can be found on Amazon with Prime shipping. This is what I used because the quality seems to be very good.
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-AA-GM44-...=UTF8&qid=1491668328&sr=8-1&keywords=pac+gm44
Here is a similar connector.
Stereo Add An Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to OEM Factory Radio for some GM | eBay
Radio X2 Connector
The X2 connector is the smaller 20 pin connector on the back of the radio. The original radio does not have an X2 connector. I purchased this on Mouser for $1.53. There is a small black tab on the bottom of this connector that I needed to cut off in order to make it fit into the radio connector, but otherwise it works perfectly.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKjU01SLEgwTpuRfzm3jiqbA=
8 pins are also required. I purchased 30 pins just in case I screwed up, and they are only about 4 cents each.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKnLUUhtImXeWLDWi2Fbrz/g=
Info Display Connector
I had a hard time finding the correct connector and pins for this, so I just bought the ACDelco pigtail on Amazon with free prime shipping. It is ACDelco part number PT2558. I paid $13.96 for this. Amazon usually only has one in stock at a time, so if it's not available, check back a few days later and they may have received another.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00558RS0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio Controls Connector
I also had a hard time finding this connector and pins, so I purchased the ACDelco pigtail on Amazon. It is ACDelco part number PT2680. I paid $22.11 for this. Amazon usually only has one in stock at a time, so if it's not available, check back a few days later and they may have received another.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OVA6JU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power and ground for Radio Control and Info Display
Since the power and ground for both of these connectors use the same wires in the dash harness, and they connect to the same fuse, I decided to tap into them by inserting pins into pins 1 and 2 on the original info display connector. I used some leftover pins from the PAC LOC connector that was used for the Radio X1 harness. I built my own connector by inserting the pins into the connector and covering them with hot glue. Then I ran wires to pins 1 and 2 on the new Info Display connector and Radio Controls connector.
Voice Recognition Signal - Telematics Communications (OnStar) Control Module X2 Connector
I needed to add 3 pins to the OnStar X2 connector to add the voice recognition and phone audio signal to the radio. I bought these on Mouser. These are Delphi connectors part number 15445904. They cost about 15 cents each.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKiAPJPX6chA8A2XQFMx5WWI=
The X2 connector on the Onstar module has a small plastic square on one side. I used a small screwdriver to pull the square up, and it unlocked the pins so that I could insert the new pins.
The Onstar module is hard to find and get access to add the wires. See the thread below for more information on accessing the Onstar module. After you remove the screws for the module, you can lift it upward a little and it will come out. You can drop the module down below to access the connectors. There are three connectors on the back of the module. One of them is empty. The middle connector is the X2 connector.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/137-gen1-audio-electrical-tutorials/5682-how-disable-onstar.html
Backup Camera
I looked in my car and found out that the body harness has all of the wiring for the camera already there. The only thing I needed was to add wires from the radio to the X200 body harness connector, and wires from the X900 body harness connector to the camera.
X200 body harness connector: I purchased the terminated lead from GM parts site for about $5 each. These are GM part number 13575546. On this harness, pin 6 is camera signal+, Pin 7 is Camera signal-, and pin 18 is camera drain wire. To insert the pins, I needed to remove the gray plastic piece on one side. This unlocks the pins so that I could insert the new pins.
EDIT: I added another post below that explains how to open the X200 connector.
X900 body harness connector. I personally decided to buy the trunk lid harness from a GM parts site (part number 94556229). This cost about $43 plus about $10 for shipping, but it made it super easy to install the rear camera, and it looks like it was installed from the factory. I also bought the full rear chrome bar with the camera in it on ebay. Without this complete harness, I would have needed to run 6 wires from the body harness to the camera.
Auxiliary Input Connector
I also had to run new wires from the Aux input plug in the center console to the X1 connector on the radio. I purchased a used center console wiring harness on eBay. I used the Aux plug and the Aux wires from the used eBay console harness. I cut off the connector on the other end of the used eBay harness and added a generic molex connector that I purchased on eBay. I put the other side of that molex connector on the wires coming from the radio. Then I just plugged it all together.
Wire
For most of the wiring I just purchased some 22 gauge stranded wire from Frys. Cost was about $5. I made the wires for the controls and display the same length as the Twinax cable, which is about 16 inches. It was longer than needed, but it worked ok.
For the shielded wire, I used this. It's a little stiff, but it worked. Cost was $16 with shipping for 25 feet.
25' Belden 1800B T5X 2 Conductor 24 Gauge AES/EBU Digital Audio Cable 2C 24AWG | eBay
Tape
To make everything look nice, I wrapped all of the wiring in fuzzy fleece tape. This also reduces the chance of rattles in the dash. I also covered all of the original connectors in this tape to reduce rattles. This looks identical to the tape used on the wire harnesses in the Cruze. Cost was $4.99.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NN6B9R6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then I just wired everything together using the wiring diagram.

Total Cost
My total cost for the wiring in the dash (what MVI provides) was about $135. With the camera wiring and trunk harness, the total was about $200.
To reduce this cost further, it would have been possible to save money on the info display and controls connectors. Someone may be able to find these on Mouser, or it could be possible to get them out of a wrecked car. It would also reduce the cost a lot if you added your own wires to the trunk harness.
Before and After:
