[MetallicaMatt]

Did an oil change today and when I came back later to check the oil level, I noticed the fluid level in the burp tank seems sort of low to me. I didn't see a simple "cold/hot level" indicator....

Mine is a 2013 LTZ, just over 22,000 miles.

What's considered normal for cold? I did see what appear to be some hash marks maybe, but nothing else.

 

[Jim Frye]

Pages 10-16 thru 10-18 of the OM. Cold is not warm. Although, some folks that have been dealing with the AF smell issue claim that the actual level should be below the mark on tank when cold. Read the Antifreeze Smell threads here for more information on coolant level.

 

[obermd]

Look closely at the coolant tank and you will see an arrow on the tank near the front left corner of the tank. It's a little over an inch long and the shaft is about a third of an inch wide.

 

[MetallicaMatt]

I see the little arrows pointing to one of the molded hash marks, pretty high up, is that considered "cold" level? The manual said nothing of where to fill other than how to fill it.

My fluid level is probably 1/4 - 3/8" above the top of the hose. This seems pretty low. I'm a little concerned that the level is low, especially for a new car?

Or am I missing something?

 

[obermd]

At that level, I would have your dealership fill it to about halfway between the top and bottom of the arrow. Then you need to keep an eye on it to ensure it stays there. At the level your coolant is at you risk pulling air into the cooling system.

 

[MetallicaMatt]

I have some dex-cool in the garage, just throw some of that, with some bottled water (50% mix) and I should be good to go, correct?

i.e. avoiding the dealership since the car will be hot by then

 

[obermd]

I know it's a 50/50 mix but I don't know if you need distilled water or not. Personally I would take it to the dealership just so they can document that your coolant was low.

 

[70AARCUDA]

...the first picture in this posting on the subject shows you what you want to know:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-engine-technical-discussion/10307-coolant-level-tracking.html

 

[MetallicaMatt]

very helpful. I think I'll stop by the auto store tomorrow and just buy the pre-mix 50/50 Dexcool and top it off....might be the best bet. My car will be nice and hot by time I get to the dealership.

 

[obermd]

In any case, keep an eye on your coolant level. Mine dropped for about the first 14,000 miles. It's been stable in the 10K since then.

 

[MetallicaMatt]

I totally forgot. I had to have my radiator replaced after a semi threw a tire tread into it. That would explain it. Off to the autoparts store tomorrow!

 

[obermd]

Ouch. I'm glad you didn't get hurt. In your case I would definitely fill the coolant and then watch it. I'd also watch for leaks under the car (the one benefit of the engine shield slash job) to make sure everything got properly tightened after the radiator replacement.

 

[MetallicaMatt]

Yes, luckily I walked away okay. This happened way back in the fall, so no leaks. I'm guessing it just wasn't topped off all of the way or there was some air.

I haven't had the engine shield slash job done, but no leaks in the garage.

 

[NickD]

Could read the cold hot lines on my 2012 coolant reservoir, with a bright light. Augmented those lines with a black marker pen. Did come full from the factory, but checking it a week or so later, was very close to the bottom. Was concerned but have a bottle of 100% Dexcool, hate that 50-50 mix crap.

While other liquids are far more concentrated to save on shipping cost, these idiots are adding water to it. And charging a stiff price for it. A gallon of distilled water is still around 69 cents. In my neck of the woods, should be using a 60-40 mix.

After a year, still at that full mark, and this is not a new problem ever since they decided to get rid of that radiator cap. No way to get rid of that air in the system, but will do it by itself, after driving it for awhile. You can't no longer change coolant and say you are done, takes several hours of watching it after you think it full.

One think you notice on sticker prices besides drastically increasing prices each year are additions, like such things as a license plate bracket.

One thing you don't see are deductions, like no more radiator cap, lubrication drains, zerk fittings for key lubrication spots, or even AT dip sticks.

 

[MetallicaMatt]

I agree, the cost of 50/50 Dexcool is insane. Did you fill to the very top hash mark of the burp tank? Doesn't leave much room for when it gets hot out to me, but I didn't design the thing.

 

[Robby]

I'm going to assume you are commenting on the radiator no longer having a cap (IE radiator cap omission)

So, to clarify, the radiator cap (pressure cap) exists.....but it is located on the surge tank.
This design has been used on various cooling systems since the late 50's. (I point to Corvette in this case)
It also is used on my 1995 and 1996 Impala LT-1's.

Regardless, I continue to believe the surge tank operation is being confused with a coolant overflow tank, such as found on my 1996 Blazer.
Vehicles that use a overflow tank have the pressure cap mounted on the radiator and any expansion of coolant is directed through a hose to the tank.
When the vehicle cools after shutdown, the coolant is drawn back into the radiator through negative pressure.
The overflow design purpose is to keep the actual radiator full at all times, maximizing efficiency and, by having no air in the core section, the coolant won't gel.

The surge tank, as found on the Cruze in this discussion, is simply a remotely located place for coolant expansion to take place and, because it has air space, there is no overflow bottle required.

Therefore, as long as the level is above the hose inlet, at the bottom of the tank, when cold, it is considered 'full'
The airspace above the level is required so the cooling system pressure will remain below 20 psi.
This is the caps designed relief pressure.
If one was to fill the surge tank to its maximum 'HOT' level, and the coolant is not at 210 degrees (variable) the now very small airspace remaining will reach and likely exceed 20 psi before the engine is fully warmed up.
This will result in the cap releasing pressure, venting just ahead of the fresh air inlet and 'viola!'.....you now join the 'I smell coolant crowd'

I keep the coolant level 1/2" above the lower tank hose checking it first thing in the morning.
I have operated the vehicle with a pressure tester installed......results were surge tank pressure at that starting level never exceeded 14 psi......a nice sized buffer zone against cap venting.

My experience and $.02.........the 'FULL HOT' arrow means just that.......never exceed the tip of the arrow under any circumstance.

Rob

 

[MetallicaMatt]

So the arrow's indicated towards the top of the tank are for "hot"? Not cold? Seems like a bad idea to open the cap to top off the tank when the system is at operating temperature.

So as long as I have some margin above the hose, 1/2" - 1", I should be okay and not spray coolant all over my engine compartment.

 

[Robby]

So the arrow's indicated towards the top of the tank are for "hot"? Not cold? Seems like a bad idea to open the cap to top off the tank when the system is at operating temperature.

So as long as I have some margin above the hose, 1/2" - 1", I should be okay and not spray coolant all over my engine compartment.

Thats what I'm saying.....
That darn arrow is IMO probably the primary cause of the coolant oder problem........misinterpetation of the meaning, 'Full Hot'

I even caught my dealer taking the level up to the arrow during pre-deliveries (not on mine) and after considering my discussion, went back out and dropped the levels to avoid potental future owner complaints.

Rob

Rob

 

[MetallicaMatt]

Since I'm already 1/4 - 3/8" above the hose, could I just add some purified drinking water to get it to 1/2" to 1" above the hose? Or do I need demin?

Assuming it's still mixed for the right temps, I can check that

 

[jblackburn]

I'm going to assume you are commenting on the radiator no longer having a cap (IE radiator cap omission)

So, to clarify, the radiator cap (pressure cap) exists.....but it is located on the surge tank.
This design has been used on various cooling systems since the late 50's. (I point to Corvette in this case)
It also is used on my 1995 and 1996 Impala LT-1's.

Regardless, I continue to believe the surge tank operation is being confused with a coolant overflow tank, such as found on my 1996 Blazer.
Vehicles that use a overflow tank have the pressure cap mounted on the radiator and any expansion of coolant is directed through a hose to the tank.
When the vehicle cools after shutdown, the coolant is drawn back into the radiator through negative pressure.
The overflow design purpose is to keep the actual radiator full at all times, maximizing efficiency and, by having no air in the core section, the coolant won't gel.

The surge tank, as found on the Cruze in this discussion, is simply a remotely located place for coolant expansion to take place and, because it has air space, there is no overflow bottle required.

Therefore, as long as the level is above the hose inlet, at the bottom of the tank, when cold, it is considered 'full'
The airspace above the level is required so the cooling system pressure will remain below 20 psi.
This is the caps designed relief pressure.
If one was to fill the surge tank to its maximum 'HOT' level, and the coolant is not at 210 degrees (variable) the now very small airspace remaining will reach and likely exceed 20 psi before the engine is fully warmed up.
This will result in the cap releasing pressure, venting just ahead of the fresh air inlet and 'viola!'.....you now join the 'I smell coolant crowd'

I keep the coolant level 1/2" above the lower tank hose checking it first thing in the morning.
I have operated the vehicle with a pressure tester installed......results were surge tank pressure at that starting level never exceeded 14 psi......a nice sized buffer zone against cap venting.

My experience and $.02.........the 'FULL HOT' arrow means just that.......never exceed the tip of the arrow under any circumstance.

Rob

Yes sir. You've hit the nail on the head.

Since reducing the level, no smell AT ALL from my tank. In fact, I only had a a smell when the level was brought up to that arrow.

As long as you've got coolant above the bottom hose (like the car was shipped from the factory) you should be just fine.


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