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Im doing brakes this weekend on both cars, 2011 Cruze RS and 2012 F-150. Cruze has 2 disc brakes, truck has 4. This will be the first brake job for both cars. Cruze has 60,000 miles and truck has 54,000 miles. I dont think im going to have to turn the rotors unless i see some serious damage on the rotors, but what do you think? How often do you turn or replace your rotors?
 

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If I'm putting on new pads I either turn the rotors or replace them. If I go through the trouble of putting on new brakes I want them to feel new for as long as possible.

My 1LT cruze brakes have lasted me longer than any other car I have owned, have 73,000 miles on my brakes and still feel the same as day one(spongy and lower pedal than I would like). Had a 2014 1LT as a loaner and its brakes seemed even worse than mine and it only had 20,000 on the clock.
 

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I have been changing my rotors every other brake job but I don't let the brakes go to far to nothing. IMO this has worked for me
 

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I wouldn't turn rotors unless they are "warped" or scored and uneven. Turning rotors unnecessarily removes material and makes the rotors more prone to overheating and "warping", in my opinion.

I did my first brake job at 98k, the rotors still worked smoothly. Slapped some new OEM pads on, lubed the sliders, and I just passed 138k. The brakes still work as smoothly as the day I got the Cruze. I know many will disagree, but once those new pads were bedded, you would not be able to tell the difference in my unturned rotors' braking performance vs. turned rotors.
 

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Drum brakes are not adjusted from factory so if you don't catch it then front rotors and brakes suffer.
???? drum brakes ARE self adjusting as long are you drive in reverse occasionally. Almost doesn't matter anyway as 70% of your braking is the front.

JK
 

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???? drum brakes ARE self adjusting as long are you drive in reverse occasionally. Almost doesn't matter anyway as 70% of your braking is the front.

JK
They're so far out of adjustment from the factory that they won't though. You have to bump the adjuster wheel up a couple clicks manually before they actually grab
 

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I replaced my pads @ 6K ago at 42K bc my rotors were grooved. BC they were grooved, I had them turned and replaced the pads with Napa premium pads. Typically I would just replace the pads but since mine were so grooved, I had them turned. I would have replaced but $50 ea for the rotors and the availability when I did the job I just turned and let it go at that.
 

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I hate to be "that guy", but I am.

I do not trust 99% of the countermonkeys out there to handle my brake rotors let alone dig a carbide bit carelessly into it.

Most are using Aamco or Accu-turn lathes, which are okay machines, but they are pretty low end models for those manufacturers. Most never see the slow drive speed. Cut 'em fast, cut 'em deep, chuck 'em on the counter.

One of the shops I worked at had an on car lathe. We had a real low comeback rate for rotors cut on car. But it was kinda' limited on arbor speed and cut rate.

We also had another lathe. Old machine. I forgot the manufacturer but it had the same size arbor as a standard Aamco so you could use modern Aamco adapters. You could vary the arbor speed and cut rate a lot more than the two settings most lathes have. It was backwards so it took some time to get used to but it made beautifully turned rotors
 

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In the same school as Beelzebubba, when I have a rotor turned, go to a good machine shop and tell them precisely how many mils I want taken off each side, some of these guys don't even look at the micro gauge and just take off an eighth of an inch.

Rotors of drums have a minimum thickness and the TIR should be checked, but sure not talking about the drums or rotors on the Cruze, talking about drums or rotors that cost a couple of hundred bucks each to replace. Ha, standing there watching him with my own micrometer or caliper in my hand.

Major enemy around here is road salt, the vent holes are plugged up with rust, some can be cleaned up by soaking in hydrochloride acid in a 50-50 mix. Others are too far gone, never know what I am going to do until I check the thickness and TIR. Also prices, like in a tiny rotor or drum in a car like the Cruze, may only cost 5-7 bucks more for new ones than pay to have the old ones turned.

Certainly don't do this by the clock, depends on the condition of the old one.

A certain amount of truth to what jblackburn said.

Also I wouldn't turn them. Buy some high quality replacement rotors - the GM ones are junk.
Based on my experience with our 04 Cavalier, after 50K the rotors on this car were shot, replaced them with a good quality aftermarket rotor, and still in good condition after 130K miles on this thing, just replaced the pads.

Major problem I am finding my my 2012 2LT is the terrible job they did plating these pad brackets, and the clips that create a dead area where road salt builds up rust. Clips are a very stupid idea, when rust builds up, jams the pads and can wreck your rotors in a hurry. A set of four will run 120 bucks, but unless I see them and test them, can be just as bad as what I got stuck with. Tees me off.
 

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Also I wouldn't turn them. Buy some high quality replacement rotors - the GM ones are junk.
I agree mine were replaced at 27k km with grooved and dimpled ones made from good quality metal. I have never had a low pedal though, jist a vibration under light breaking. Brakes are now great.
 

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I agree mine were replaced at 27k km with grooved and dimpled ones made from good quality metal. I have never had a low pedal though, jist a vibration under light breaking. Brakes are now great.
Ha, another page for the history books, "only use OEM parts for the best longevity and reliability."

Now have to go for aftermarket parts to get these desirable features.
 

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After having some brake pedal pulsation I went and did my front brakes at 84K miles. Replacement pads are OEM GM. Went to Napa to have rotors turned and they claimed they were just at the threshold and if they cut them it would risk going too far past the minimum safety thickness. So I just opted for Napa replacement rotors.

I wanted to stick with GM OEM rotors but was in a bind and decided to take a chance with the Napa rotors. I've heard that their quality is a little better than other auto part store parts. We will see.

But brakes feel great! Fluid flushed with oem Ac Delco dot 3. Rear drums were adjusted and surprisingly the pads still have plenty of life considering the mileage.
 

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I hate to be "that guy", but I am.

I do not trust 99% of the countermonkeys out there to handle my brake rotors let alone dig a carbide bit carelessly into it.

Most are using Aamco or Accu-turn lathes, which are okay machines, but they are pretty low end models for those manufacturers. Most never see the slow drive speed. Cut 'em fast, cut 'em deep, chuck 'em on the counter.

One of the shops I worked at had an on car lathe. We had a real low comeback rate for rotors cut on car. But it was kinda' limited on arbor speed and cut rate.

We also had another lathe. Old machine. I forgot the manufacturer but it had the same size arbor as a standard Aamco so you could use modern Aamco adapters. You could vary the arbor speed and cut rate a lot more than the two settings most lathes have. It was backwards so it took some time to get used to but it made beautifully turned rotors
Had this happen to me as well. Being military my car sat up and rotors frequently had surface rust in the TDY lot. After about 3 deployments and 19K on the whole car the rotors were horrible. Had them turned and OMG it was the worst thing I could have done. Pedal travel was ridiculous, I ended up getting new blanks.

???? drum brakes ARE self adjusting as long are you drive in reverse occasionally. Almost doesn't matter anyway as 70% of your braking is the front.

JK
In theory, this SHOULD have worked.

They're so far out of adjustment from the factory that they won't though. You have to bump the adjuster wheel up a couple clicks manually before they actually grab
Been hearing this about the Cruze for many years. Safe to assume they fixed this issue on 2013+ models?
Nope. My 13 was so bad, I could pull the handle all the way to it closes the extended arm rest on a closed course in snow w/ T/C and stabilitrac off and the back would not come around. There is a self adjuster for that handle under the center console but manual indexing it is a temp fix.
 

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Just replaced the rotors, bearing, pads on my '03 S-10 for $28 each. Yes they're made in china but around here not many places turn rotors anymore and for $28 it's not reall worth it. I have 125k on her now and the original rotors were so thin and rusted they needed replacement anyway.
 
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