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I looked all over at all the threads and there were so many questions about installing a boost gauge and no guides. So, I installed one tonight and here is how I did it.
NOTE: I used bag ties for now since I ran out of zip ties. I also used double sided tape to hold my gauge in place for now. I'll clean it up later.
I got a cheapy Autozone gauge that didn't come with everything, so you might need to get some things. I also got them at autozone. I didn't know what size anything was so I got a variety pack.
![Plastic]()
1. Vacuum hose ends. They slip on the end of the vacuum hose so that you can fit it to the T
2. Rubber vacuum line. You don't NEED this but I didn't want to cut my stock stuff in case I had to go back in a hurry for some reason *cough*warranty*cough*
3. And of course, T fittings. These let you split a vacuum line.
![Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part]()
I already have this installed. I ran the line across the lip of the hood. There are 3 plastic rivets that protrude out and they have slits in them. I used them to hang the line. The line starts at the passenger side where it is hooked up to the vacuum line and ends at the driver side where it will enter the cabin.
![Vehicle Car Auto part Engine]()
If you look close the line will go down behind the other lines that are there including the fat coolant line. This line is HOT if the car isn't cold. Go ahead, ask... Anyway, the arrow is pointing to a white spot. this is where I have the T.
![Auto part Fuel line Engine Automotive fuel system Vehicle]()
This is a shot from where the strut tower is pointing toward the back of the motor.
#1. The black and green line. The end of this is now in the T, but it was hooked in to where the black line is now (#2). #3 is the vacuum T. #4 is the rubber vacuum fitting that I connected to the plastic vacuum line (#5).
Note: To remove the black and green line, just get a flat head and gently press down while pulling with your fingers from the other end. Be very careful. it's snug but don't force it off. try twisting it to help break it lose. If you break the nipple...well...just don't break it!
![Auto part Engine Fuel line Motor vehicle Vehicle]()
Similar shot. #1 is the intake manifold. #2 is the coolant hose that leads into the cabin where it meets the heat exchanger (where you heat comes from inside). #3 is the alternator.
![Auto part Wire]()
Ok, this is over by the fuse box, coolant resivoir and everything else. The hose is entering an extruded rubber peice. I poked a hole in the end from inside of the car.
PRO TIP: Push the line from inside the cabin into the engine bay. Much easier. Then grab it and pull it out and then run it over to the passenger side for hook up.
![Auto part Wire Floor]()
This is inside the car on the floor looking up by where the clutch is (or a void area for you sissies. j/k). You'll see a fat line going into a rubber boot. Where the line is coming out in this picture, jam a screw driver in there to poke a hole for the line to run through.
The line from here is running up to the fuse box area.
![Electronics Technology Electronic device Electronic component Vehicle]()
NOTE: This is where I chose to route my line. You can stop here if you like and route it however you want.
There is a hole in the metal bracket that is perfect for the line to go through Routing through this hole helps keep the line out of the way of the other moving parts (especially for those with clutch pedals). From there I ran it under the steering wheel and up to the other side where the stereo is.
![Vehicle Gauge Car Speedometer Tachometer]()
If you follow the green line, you'll see where I routed it. Just line it up and slip it in the cracks. You can gently push the line inside to hide it.
I have not yet run the power. Going to do that right now.
PRO TIP: The plastic vacuum line will be all coiled up and such a PITA to work with. To fix this, boil a pot of water. When it's boiling, turn the flame off and drop the hose in the water for 30-60 seconds (doesn't take long). You'll see it uncoil. remove it from the water and stretch it out (don't force it). Get it as straight as you can and let it cool off. It will be much easier to work with now.
Electrical
+12 constant = #14 fuse
Keyed on hot +12 = #6 fuse
NOTE: I used bag ties for now since I ran out of zip ties. I also used double sided tape to hold my gauge in place for now. I'll clean it up later.
I got a cheapy Autozone gauge that didn't come with everything, so you might need to get some things. I also got them at autozone. I didn't know what size anything was so I got a variety pack.
1. Vacuum hose ends. They slip on the end of the vacuum hose so that you can fit it to the T
2. Rubber vacuum line. You don't NEED this but I didn't want to cut my stock stuff in case I had to go back in a hurry for some reason *cough*warranty*cough*
3. And of course, T fittings. These let you split a vacuum line.
I already have this installed. I ran the line across the lip of the hood. There are 3 plastic rivets that protrude out and they have slits in them. I used them to hang the line. The line starts at the passenger side where it is hooked up to the vacuum line and ends at the driver side where it will enter the cabin.
If you look close the line will go down behind the other lines that are there including the fat coolant line. This line is HOT if the car isn't cold. Go ahead, ask... Anyway, the arrow is pointing to a white spot. this is where I have the T.
This is a shot from where the strut tower is pointing toward the back of the motor.
#1. The black and green line. The end of this is now in the T, but it was hooked in to where the black line is now (#2). #3 is the vacuum T. #4 is the rubber vacuum fitting that I connected to the plastic vacuum line (#5).
Note: To remove the black and green line, just get a flat head and gently press down while pulling with your fingers from the other end. Be very careful. it's snug but don't force it off. try twisting it to help break it lose. If you break the nipple...well...just don't break it!
Similar shot. #1 is the intake manifold. #2 is the coolant hose that leads into the cabin where it meets the heat exchanger (where you heat comes from inside). #3 is the alternator.
Ok, this is over by the fuse box, coolant resivoir and everything else. The hose is entering an extruded rubber peice. I poked a hole in the end from inside of the car.
PRO TIP: Push the line from inside the cabin into the engine bay. Much easier. Then grab it and pull it out and then run it over to the passenger side for hook up.
This is inside the car on the floor looking up by where the clutch is (or a void area for you sissies. j/k). You'll see a fat line going into a rubber boot. Where the line is coming out in this picture, jam a screw driver in there to poke a hole for the line to run through.
The line from here is running up to the fuse box area.
NOTE: This is where I chose to route my line. You can stop here if you like and route it however you want.
There is a hole in the metal bracket that is perfect for the line to go through Routing through this hole helps keep the line out of the way of the other moving parts (especially for those with clutch pedals). From there I ran it under the steering wheel and up to the other side where the stereo is.
If you follow the green line, you'll see where I routed it. Just line it up and slip it in the cracks. You can gently push the line inside to hide it.
I have not yet run the power. Going to do that right now.
PRO TIP: The plastic vacuum line will be all coiled up and such a PITA to work with. To fix this, boil a pot of water. When it's boiling, turn the flame off and drop the hose in the water for 30-60 seconds (doesn't take long). You'll see it uncoil. remove it from the water and stretch it out (don't force it). Get it as straight as you can and let it cool off. It will be much easier to work with now.
Electrical
+12 constant = #14 fuse
Keyed on hot +12 = #6 fuse
