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WP1.jpg

How to: change the water pump!

listed below is a brief list of tools that will be needed.

5/8 inch socket
7/16 inch socket
5/16 inch socket
3/8 inch socket wrench extension
pliers
jack and block of wood (better to use A frame and hoist to lift motor)
Blue loctite threadlocker
Thermostat and Water pump RTV silicone gasket maker
paper/pen
coolant
screwdriver


I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC, this is only a guide, common sense is still a necessity

I bought my water pump from Advance Auto Parts and the main gasket that connects to the pump with the motor was included, this gasket looked like a paper style "felt feeling" gasket, the original gasket the cruze has is a metal gasket covered in sealant.


BELOW IS A SERIES OF STEPS TO COMPLETE THE CHANGE OUT OF WATER PUMPS, not every single detail is listed below but enough to get the average tool guy finished with this task.

Step 1

check out the new water pump, the water pumps are different from a 1.4 motor and a 1.8, this posting is for a 1.4 Turbo Cruze, make sure the gasket that connects water pump to motor is included. Also a new gasket that connects the water pump to the thermostat housing is recommended, this gasket looks more like a rubber ring?

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Step 2

Empty coolant from car by unhooking a lower hose from radiator...PS. alot of coolant will come out, be prepared. then use A frame and hoist to hold the engine because a motor mount will be disconnected later in this thread....i didnt have an A frame and hoist, so i used a jack and block of wood, this method is more dangerous and not recommended but if used, make sure block of wood is not putting pressure on the oil pan drain bolt...(what we loosen and remove for an oil change)
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i jacked up to put just enough pressure to barely begin to raise the motor

Step 3

Begin to make room under the hood to change water pump by removing air filter and housing, be careful with wiring and plastic hoses.
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With motor supported by hoist or jack, begin to remove the bolts pictured below.
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Wow I can't believe you used a scissor jack but good write up so far hopefully there's more coming.

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STEP 4
With the bolts removed from step 3, remove this poly motor mount pictured below.
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Then begin to unbolt the THREE bolts off the bottom half of the motor mount,
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Below is picture of bottom half of motor mount after it is removed
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STep 5

begin removing serpentine belt by picture below
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then remove the pulley on water pump by removing its three bolts located on pulley.
then remove the inlet hose on old water pump with a pair of channel lock pliers.
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Then proceed to remove the three bolts that connect water pump to thermostat housing, removing the rest of the air intake hose on top of the turbo will help give more room, but place clean wrag in the turbo inlet to not allow any debris or bolts to accidentally fall in... do not forget to remove wrag when placing air intake hose back on.

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Did u refill coolant with the prestone and not dexcool? Ive considered getting rid of my dexcool and running prestone extended life antifreeze.
 

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Did u refill coolant with the prestone and not dexcool? Ive considered getting rid of my dexcool and running prestone extended life antifreeze.

Why? there was never an issue like people made it seem with dexcool or GM would have stopped using it by now. The real issue is if you mix dexcool and regular antifreeze. Prestone does make a dexcool product too, last I knew it came in a grey bottle with orange cap.
 

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Did u refill coolant with the prestone and not dexcool? Ive considered getting rid of my dexcool and running prestone extended life antifreeze.
If your worried about warranty issues then I woumd not recommend doing this dexcool as special additives in it that others don't please only use dexcool in GM vehicles.

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Step 6

trace gasket onto cardboard to make a template, this will help keep bolts organized and not mixed up, the water pump bolts can be pushed through the cardboard to remember its exact location...not all bolts are the same size...very important step, very easy to get confused on where the bolts return to. i did not have cardboard and just traced it onto paper.
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by the way, the water pump was leaking from the weep hole located in picture below, not sure why picture has lines through it??

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when the weep hole is blowing coolant, it means the seal is broke inside the water pump, its a warning sign the pump isnt working as it should.


step 7

proceed to remove the bolts off the water pump i believe there are about 10. remember to use the template to keep track of bolt placement.

when all bolts are removed pull of the water pump, this will take a little muscle, but not crazy muscle, make sure all 10 bolts are removed! there is a tab on left side of water pump about half way down that i used a wrench and pried off the pump from the block, again this did not take crazy amount of force!
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sorry pics are green, my phone case is green and the flash reflects the color???

clean off the motor where old gasket residue is left, be careful not to gouge the metal.
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this picture is before i cleaned it up.
 

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I do not plan to ever return to dealer for warranty work anyways. Just was never crazy about the dexcool in the late 90s-early 2000s. My 4.3 went over 200k miles without dexcool for over 100k miles. Also have a 05' 4.2 vortec that im running prestone green extended life with over 160k miles and no cooling issues.
 

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I do not plan to ever return to dealer for warranty work anyways. Just was never crazy about the dexcool in the late 90s-early 2000s. My 4.3 went over 200k miles without dexcool for over 100k miles. Also have a 05' 4.2 vortec that im running prestone green extended life with over 160k miles and no cooling issues.
Lets hopso because they will not warranty any engine work.

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GM fixed the Dex-Cool formula in the mid-2000's. Newer GM cars don't have an issue with the new formula.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
step 8

i smeared a little bit of the RTV silicone gasket onto the NEW water pump, a very thin amount enough for the paper/felt gasket to stick to water pump then with the real gasket stuck to the NEW water pump i placed it onto the motor, this should fit right back on without any obstructions or feeling like it has to be wedged in, if so, something is wrong, remove and inspect.
it should mount on very smoothly...

dont forget the thermostat housing needs to go back on water pump too...kinda at same time as it goes into place on motor!...make sure rubber type ring gasket is still on the thermostat housing if it wasnt replaced...but its a good idea to go ahead and replace it. probably a good idea to replace thermostat too.

place the loctite blue on about half way end of all water pump bolts...replace all water pump and thermostat housing bolts CORRECTLY, and torque to specifications...

total of 10 water pump bolts...all 10 are torqued to 71 in-lbs.
tighten the 10 bolts in a cross sequence.



step 9

reattach the inlet hose on water pump, place serpentine belt back into position for pulley to be placed back on
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put pulley back on with belt in position and tighten the three bolts on pulley.


put motor mounts back on and tighten...lower jack from below motor

take wrag out of turbo inlet if you put one there back in step 5.
reattach air filter hoses and housing and wiring.


step 10...

go through each step and make sure everything is back in position!
make sure lower radiator hose is placed back on radiator from draining coolant for this task back in step 2.
place coolant in reservoir and keep filling up to the arrow.

the first time you run motor, the fan in front of motor will probably turn on and be full blast! dont worry at first because the coolant is circulating in...it does this when thermostat doesnt feel coolant, its a warning sign...turn off car and keep filling coolant until reservoir fills up to arrow!

after car is completely filled with coolant according to GM specs, the fan ought not to be full blast.

PS. dont open reservoir when car is at normal operating temperature...HOT!

instructions that came with water pump state that the coolant level may drop a little after initial running of new water pump but should stop and leak should be fixed!

ive ran this new water pump for a week now, heat and AC...so far no leak

again im not a professional mechanic!
 

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What antifreeze did you end up using?
 

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Did you drain the antifreeze from the petcock, or just remove the hose and let it fly into a pan?

Any tricks for access to the lower petcock for those of us just looking to service coolant?

Nice write-up. Does the tensioner really turn clockwise? I believe as you face the pully it turns counter clockwise, but I could be wrong. Never done this job.

Glad things appear to be working. A bit suprised with the thin gasket you got. I expected more of a rubber molded gasket.

I believe most of the fasteners on the engine mount are probably metric. While standard wrenches work, it's best to prevent round over with the correct wrench.

Thanks-
 

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Did you drain the antifreeze from the petcock, or just remove the hose and let it fly into a pan?

Any tricks for access to the lower petcock for those of us just looking to service coolant?

Nice write-up. Does the tensioner really turn clockwise? I believe as you face the pully it turns counter clockwise, but I could be wrong. Never done this job.

Glad things appear to be working. A bit suprised with the thin gasket you got. I expected more of a rubber molded gasket.

I believe most of the fasteners on the engine mount are probably metric. While standard wrenches work, it's best to prevent round over with the correct wrench.

Thanks-
check out picture from step 6 to get better look at gasket...just removed hose to drain coolant
tensioner turns clockwise "tightening" to put tension against spring to decompress and loosen belt.
if turned counterclockwise "loosening", you will just loosen bolt from pulley
 

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Why? there was never an issue like people made it seem with dexcool or GM would have stopped using it by now. The real issue is if you mix dexcool and regular antifreeze. Prestone does make a dexcool product too, last I knew it came in a grey bottle with orange cap.
Actually there was some sort of ingredient in the Dexcool that didn't like any gaskets it passed through. I don't understand why gm hasnt changed that to where consumers cant buy it. To answer a future question like how do I know this? I have a few good friends who are A.S.E certified, have been for over 10 years and I trust both of them, and they told me about that and even told me to drain that **** back out of my cavalier when I redid all the cooling and heating system on it. So I went and bought 2 gallons of prestone 50/50 mix and put it in immediately. I still have questions about that dexcool to this day. It doesn't surprise me that it does eat up a lot of gaskets because I heard of some issues other buyers had with it due to leaks and whatnot. Im no expert here, but im gonna have to say my friends are right and im taking their words for it since they work on cars everyday and are VERY knowledgeable. Just giving my opinion
 

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Actually there was some sort of ingredient in the Dexcool that didn't like any gaskets it passed through. I don't understand why gm hasnt changed that to where consumers cant buy it. To answer a future question like how do I know this? I have a few good friends who are A.S.E certified, have been for over 10 years and I trust both of them, and they told me about that and even told me to drain that **** back out of my cavalier when I redid all the cooling and heating system on it. So I went and bought 2 gallons of prestone 50/50 mix and put it in immediately. I still have questions about that dexcool to this day. It doesn't surprise me that it does eat up a lot of gaskets because I heard of some issues other buyers had with it due to leaks and whatnot. Im no expert here, but im gonna have to say my friends are right and im taking their words for it since they work on cars everyday and are VERY knowledgeable. Just giving my opinion
What I will say is don't go beyond the recommended timeframe before the coolant gets changed. GM told people Dex, spark plugs, factory fill engine and trans fluid should last 100,000 miles in the older cars.
 

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Thanks for sharing.

I am surprised the OP is reporting 11mm bolts / nuts on the car. I didn't think GM liked to use that size much. I figured they would be 10mm parts.


~5/16" = ~8mm
~7/16" = ~11mm
~5/8" = ~16mm

For those of you with only metric tools.
 
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