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I picked up a cam locking/alignment tool off ebay and it would make contact with the head. Make sure you buy the one linked here, since its been confirmed to work. I didn't pressurize the cylinders, piston 1 and 4 will keep the valve up for you, it might drop half an inch if that. For 2 and 3, I just shoved some 10ft or so of rope down into the cylinder and that kept the valves in place. You absolutely need the Kent Moore tool to do the spring swap, no other tool will work unless you make your own.
 

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I tried to set time without the special tools, and I believe I got the exhaust cam one tooth off, my question is how can I adjust it that one tooth without the tools? I'm not buying them, I don't have time to wait for them to get here anyways. I have a welder, so if it's truly absolutely 100% not possible without them, im not opposed to making them myself.

It runs, just pourly
the gear placement isn't important, the phaser alignment is the key. Not sure how you want to make a holder if you don't have the correct phaser location to begin with...the $30 tool will correctly align/clock/position them so you can tighten it all down.
 

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Is there any chance you could measure the important points that it touches on the cam phasers ?
sure...I'll make a template on paper and measure that out for you. Can post the info tonight. But honestly, by the time I do that, you get the measurements and you make the thing, amazon would be a day away from delivering the real deal..lol. I'll help you out though and will post the measurements.
 

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Thank you so much!! It fits on a piece of paper, perhaps you could just trace it to make the template, and then scan it if you have a scanner? Then I could just print it out and fabrication is very straightforward from there
as long as you print it to actual size, it will work...I just wouldn't want you solely relying on that to make your own...I'll include some measurements for you as a reference point
 

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send me a pm with your email and I can send you the image and pdf directly. If you print out the image uploaded here, make sure that 1" line is actually 1" when you print it....that's your scale verification. The cam holder plate should be like 1/4" thick or so...a wrench or a thick flat stock should work just fine.
 
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