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How-To: Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment

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Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment

Overview:
There's a surprising lack of articles on this subject, so I'm writing an article on how to adjust timing on the 1.4L Turbo. This will need to be done any time you have to remove a cam, a sprocket, or the timing chain for any reason. Most enthusiasts will need this in order to upgrade valve springs. This tutorial is designed to help you understand what needs to be done to adjust timing and in what order and assumes that you are disconnecting the camshafts. Any time the camshaft bolts are removed, timing has to be adjusted.

If you're here reading this, it is assumed you have some mechanical aptitude and aren't intimidated by removing the cams, or you can afford to have your car inoperable for a weekend. This thread is intended to help you understand the function of each of the tools you are going to be using to set the timing. Ultimately it doesn't matter how you take apart the valvetrain or in what order, but it will certainly help to move things along smoothly if you follow the order I'll describe here.


Tools Required:
- 1.4L timing tool kit. You can get this on Amazon.com. This tool kit is absolutely required. You can find identical tool kits in blue boxes or use the Kent-Moore tool if you're lucky enough to find someone who has it or have deep pockets, but this low-cost option works perfectly.
- 22mm wrench
- Assortment of torx bits up to T50
- Ft Lb and In Lb Torque wrenches
- 24mm socket and extension


Parts Required:
- 2 x GM Camshaft Bolts, 55562224; Available on Amazon.com. These are TTY and MUST be replaced.


PART 1: TIMING TOOLS OVERVIEW
In order to do this job, you will need to buy the tool kit I listed or get the Kent-Moore equivalent (for several times the cost). I've marked each of the tool with a letter to make this easier.


Tool D is the crankshaft fixing tool, which holds the crank at perfectly TDC.
Tool E is the timing chain tensioner fixing tool, which locks the timing chain tensioner in a compressed position.
Tool B is the camshaft locking plate, which holds the camshafts aligned in the correct position relative to the crank at TDC.
Tool C is the intake sprocket holding tool. This is used to hold the intake sprocket in place in addition to maintaining the correct tension on the timing chain.
Tool A is the exciter ring positioning tool. The exciter rings have grooves in specific locations which are used by the sensors on the timing cover to read camshaft position and allow the ECU to manage valve timing. The exciter rings are not marked or grooved and are held in place by the clamping force of the TTY cam bolts.



PART 2: REMOVAL:
First thing you need to do is remove the valve cover, tutorial for that is here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129...-replace-valve-camshaft-cover-1-4l-turbo.html

Once you do that, you need Piston 1 (passenger-most piston) at approximately TDC. Easiest way to do this is is to remove all of the spark plugs and stick a straw down into the piston, then turn the crank. You can use the 22mm wrench on the cam to turn it, or give the alternator pulley a good twist with your hand. When the straw is at at the top, you're at approximately TDC.


Next, we're going to use Tool D, the "crank fixing tool". Get under the car and look for the following torx plug on the forward facing side of the engine just above the oil pan. Don't need to drain oil to do this.


Remove the plug and insert Tool D to lock the crank at TDC. The tool should go all the way in as shown below. If it doesn't, reach your hand up and turn the alternator pulley until the tool slides all the way in.


Next, go to the driver side of the engine. Right above the belt, but below the crankshaft position actuator solenoid valve, you'll find another torx plug. Remove this as well.


Remove the timing chain guide (the orange plastic thing between the sprockets held down by two bolts).

Place the 22mm wrench over the cam as shown below and pull toward the front of the car to stretch the chain against the tensioner.


While holding tension on the cam, insert tool E, the "timing chain tensioner fixing tool". This part is a bit tricky since you can't see anything in there and don't even know if you're going in straight. Just keep working at it. This picture will show you where you should be going. There is an upside-down "U" shape you need to slide the pin through.


You now have the crank locked at TDC and the timing chain tensioner locked in the compressed position. You are now ready to remove the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves from the side of the engine, remove the camshaft bolts, and do whatever else you might need to. Once you remove the camshaft bolts, the sprockets will simply rest on the timing cover, allowing you to work with the rest of the valvetrain easily.

Camshaft removal and reinstall will be outlined in another thread. During disassembly, be careful to organize all of the parts you take off so they can be placed back in exactly the same location. This includes camshaft rotation, rocker arms, and bearing caps. You will need to place everything back where it was before.

Next post will describe how to set timing during re-assembly.

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PART 3: REINSTALL:

Install new camshaft bolts hand-snug to hold everything together.

With the 22mm wrench on the intake cam, pull toward the front of the car to apply tension to the timing chain. While holding tension, remove Tool E to unlock the timing chain tensioner and apply tension to the timing chain, slowly releasing the 22mm wrench.

Rotate camshafts so you can slide tool B, the "camshaft locking plate," into the grooves on the ends of the camshafts to lock them in place.


Rotate cam phasers in the following alignment:


Install Tool C, the "intake sprocket holding tool." This tool will maintain proper tension on the chain while holding the intake sprocket in place. Start with the sprocket holder at the bottom-most position, bolt the tool into place, then push the holder toward the sprocket and tighten firmly. You can see where the sprocket holder is marked with an arrow on the back side below. Install Tool A, the "exciter ring positioning tool." All bolts on the tools need to be tightened to 71 lb in. Make sure there is no clearance at the two outer mounting points on the exciter ring positioning tool.




You can now tighten the camshaft bolts. Be sure to hold the camshaft with the 22mm wrench while tightening. The timing tools are intended to be used for alignment, not to hold everything in place while cam bolts are being tightened. The torque spec for the cam bolts is 37lb ft + 60 degrees. For reference, 60 degrees is the distance from one corner of a hex socket/nut to the next. I didn't have a specific tool for this so I printed an angle on a paper, cut it out, and had someone hold it up to the wrench for me.

Once cam bolts are tightened, remove Tool A, B, and C.

Install the timing chain guide, tighten bolts to 71 lb in.

Rotate engine 720 degrees, set back to TDC, and double check timing with tools A, B, and D.

Remove all timing tools.

Reinstall the two plugs you removed and tighten to 30 lb ft.
Hello I'm new here, name is Michael.

So the cam phaser sprocket don't matter about any specific orientation? I noticed the both had same post number. I had marked timing chain and sprockets in relationship to cog on crankshaft sprocket tooth.

Set it all up with the kit but I forgot to put on sprocket holder before and after reinstalling sprockets. Did install the cam exciter ring tool and torqued to specs.

I have not had one misfire but now a lean code randomly. Po171. New dorman intake, PC tube, valve cover. The gas had been in the tank sitting for about 6 months? Excessive oil throughout Pcv system but I believe it's all cleaned out now.

Smoke tested and nothing, bake clean around any possible areas, nothing.

Boost on scan tool says 14psi at idle? I can let it sit for half hour and no lean, drive and get above 45 and short trim will randomly go up to 36 and sometimes stay unless I slow downtown 20 and sometimes when coming back to a stop it'll go back up. I've burned through almost all that gas and is gotten better but the short trim confuses me. Also b1s1 upstream o2 harness side connector has an exposed wire buy scan tool shows voltage up and down between .1 and .9

Any suggestions? So question 1 is: cam sprockets don't matter anyone one of the teeth can be facing straight up? Q2 is: po171? Q3 is boost psi at idle with stock stuff should be what?

Thank you for any help. If I should create a new thread let me know.
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Hello, can you show me where GM says the two cam exciter ring / sprocket bolts say TTY bolts. I can't find any information online.

Thanks
Hello everyone,

First, let me thank you for a great and detailed tutorial. I am new to the site and I will be attempting to replace the timing chain on this bad boy. Quick background, I have a 2011 Cruze 1.4 and I have replaced just about everything that can be replaced from the outside, but keeps idling rough and sometimes I get kicked into safety mode (car won't accelerate).

I got the tool and ordered the timing chain kit. It doesn't come with the bolts, I'll need to order those next. Someone posted a link to the maintenance manual for the European version (I lost the link, but be glad to upload the file if anyone wants it. Copied the entire site) but it isn't clear on the timing. I have a few questions:
  1. If the timing is off, will tool A fail to fit? Would moving the cam phasers so it fit, solves the timing issue?
  2. Do I need to remove or loosen the camshaft bolts if all I will be doing is replacing the timing chain and tensioners?
  3. Is it necessary to change the sprockets? The kit I ordered doesn't come with new ones.
Once again, thanks for the tutorial!
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1. If timing is off, you'll know for sure already, it shouldn't be. Chains typically don't fail but these cars are an exception when it comes to failing, lol.

The main thing is crank at TDC along with harmonic balancer hole lined up to TDC also.

2. Yes you loosen the cam sprocket bolts when setting time. All the tools should fit if you follow instructions in the thread.

3. Sprockets don't matter on alignment JUST exciter rings "phaser rings".

The sprocket bolts from what GM says are not torque to yield. I could find ANY specifications anywhere saying they are torque to yield. The thread here though from OP says they are.

There are a couple YouTube vids also that might help on chain replacement. I'd do tensioner and guided too. My guides were broken when I got into mine.
1. If timing is off, you'll know for sure already, it shouldn't be. Chains typically don't fail but these cars are an exception when it comes to failing, lol.

The main thing is crank at TDC along with harmonic balancer hole lined up to TDC also.

2. Yes you loosen the cam sprocket bolts when setting time. All the tools should fit if you follow instructions in the thread.

3. Sprockets don't matter on alignment JUST exciter rings "phaser rings".

The sprocket bolts from what GM says are not torque to yield. I could find ANY specifications anywhere saying they are torque to yield. The thread here though from OP says they are.

There are a couple YouTube vids also that might help on chain replacement. I'd do tensioner and guided too. My guides were broken when I got into mine.
Thanks for the assist. I started taking things apart. I am going to check the timing, and see what is going on. If the timing is not off, I am going to be stuck. Not sure what to do next. Replacing the timing chain doesn't seem to make sense if that is the case.
Anyhow, I'll check the timing tomorrow and post what I find. I figured this will be a couple of days' work, one afternoon at the time.
Hello everyone,

First, let me thank you for a great and detailed tutorial. I am new to the site and I will be attempting to replace the timing chain on this bad boy. Quick background, I have a 2011 Cruze 1.4 and I have replaced just about everything that can be replaced from the outside, but keeps idling rough and sometimes I get kicked into safety mode (car won't accelerate).

I got the tool and ordered the timing chain kit. It doesn't come with the bolts, I'll need to order those next. Someone posted a link to the maintenance manual for the European version (I lost the link, but be glad to upload the file if anyone wants it. Copied the entire site) but it isn't clear on the timing. I have a few questions:
  1. If the timing is off, will tool A fail to fit? Would moving the cam phasers so it fit, solves the timing issue?
  2. Do I need to remove or loosen the camshaft bolts if all I will be doing is replacing the timing chain and tensioners?
  3. Is it necessary to change the sprockets? The kit I ordered doesn't come with new ones.
Once again, thanks for the tutorial!
Welcome Aboard!(y)

2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues

2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
I have a question anybody around that can help?
I have a question anybody around that can help?
What's your question?

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Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
I have some questons
I have some questons
Ok, what are your questionS?

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Ok, what are your questionS?

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk
On the camshaft sprocket their are 2 notches in the sprocket how do I align those?
Awesome tutorial but I really messed up. I didn’t have the special tools and now I’m not sure what to do. I’m trying to get the #1 cylinder to TDC but I can’t get the engine to fully rotate. Do the valves on this engine have minimal clearance and can hit the pistons if not properly aligned? Not sure how to proceed. Thanks
Take the cams out and set it to tdc
Ok. I guess I need to know how to align the cams when they go back in.
Thanks for the tutorial, it was helpful! I bought a non running 14 cruze, and after pulling the head, realized this motor is a lost cause, so time to swap for another one. However, having the right timing tools is a real plus!
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This post might be dead but do you have a work around for me? I took off my head trying to replace the headgasket and I didn't lock in the tensioner so the spring flew out, any ideas on how i can put it all back together without dissasembling the whole side of it?
This post might be dead but do you have a work around for me? I took off my head trying to replace the headgasket and I didn't lock in the tensioner so the spring flew out, any ideas on how i can put it all back together without dissasembling the whole side of it?
If no pieces fell down inside then you're good. Just lubricate the spring and tensioner pin, put back inside the tensioner and hold in place with the tensioner tool from the timing tool kit.

If you don't have the proper tool find a 3" pin to hold tensioner tight while putting head back on.
Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
Thinking of tackling my timing chain myself. Just want to be very clear. I will need to do everything you mentioned in this tutorial to set the timing when changing the timing chain? I found another tutorial online for changing the timing chain that shows using a pin to lock into place
285992
.


So my question is follow your tutorial first to get the timing set correctly first, then follow the other tutorial and replacing the chain? Hope i explained this correctly. I was surprised there were not more videos on Youtube to explain timing chain replacement. Thanks for the help.
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no videos because timing chain replacement is not a common procedure on the gen1 1.4
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My 2012 Sonic has 161,000 miles. I dont drive it hard and its all highway miles. What is the recommended interval for these cars? Thanks
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