That's the problem, I can't find anything that fits the 2nd Gen 1.4. I just need to fix a camshaft that's out of timing. Everything online is for 1st Gen engines.
Excellent work thanks a million.Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
I removed the cams so that I could examine the rockers, hydraulic lash adjusters, and have the cylinder head pressure checked. I also had the valves replaced; my engine is at 180,000 miles and I figured I do it now since it's off to replace the head gasket already.Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
@JLL might be able to assistI removed the cams so that I could examine the rockers, hydraulic lash adjusters, and have the cylinder head pressure checked. I also had the valves replaced; my engine is at 180,000 miles and I figured I do it now since it's off to replace the head gasket already.
At this point the head is put back together, and I have the cams back on. But now when the cams are in alignment for the locking tool to be inserted, the exhaust valves for cylinder two stick out slightly. So the question is, can this be fixed without messing with the spring? Or (I doubt) would it be okay to proceed from here? I have a feeling I need to take the cams off and adjust the hydraulic lash adjusters of tighten down those springs. View attachment 295568
Yeah the original cams. There looks to be very shallow scratching on the cams. Nothing like what is shown in the Haynes manual.Are you using factory cams?
Are the cams in the TDC position? All the valves should be closed on a stock setup in the TDC position.Yeah the original cams. There looks to be very shallow scratching on the cams. Nothing like what is shown in the Haynes manual.
They were locked at TDC before I had the valves replaced. The valves were replaced by someone else.Are the cams in the TDC position? All the valves should be closed on a stock setup in the TDC position.
I didn't take the cams/rockers/lashers to the shop; originally I was only getting a pressure check.They were locked at TDC before I had the valves replaced. The valves were replaced by someone else.
Now when they are are TDC, the intake cylinder 4 valves are slightly open, and the exhaust cylinder 2 valves are open. Both look like the attached picture in the previous message.
Are you using locking tool in the back of the cams to make sure they're in the TDC position. The cams can rotate with the head off of the engine. Do you know what I'm talking about?I didn't take the cams/rockers/lashers to the shop; originally I was only getting a pressure check.
Yeah I bought the kit off of amazon. One side of the end of the cam is thicker than the other half, so the place can only slide in with the cam in the correct position.Are you using locking tool in the back of the cams to make sure they're in the TDC position. The cams can rotate with the head off of the engine. Do you know what I'm talking about?
That's not entirely true from my experiences. If the cams are both 180 degrees out of phase the tool will slide in but there will be some resistance. When the cams are correctly phased there is no resistance.Yeah I bought the kit off of amazon. One side of the end of the cam is thicker than the other half, so the place can only slide in with the cam in the correct position.
Update:I removed the cams so that I could examine the rockers, hydraulic lash adjusters, and have the cylinder head pressure checked. I also had the valves replaced; my engine is at 180,000 miles and I figured I do it now since it's off to replace the head gasket already.
At this point the head is put back together, and I have the cams back on. But now when the cams are in alignment for the locking tool to be inserted, the exhaust valves for cylinder two stick out slightly. So the question is, can this be fixed without messing with the spring? Or (I doubt) would it be okay to proceed from here? I have a feeling I need to take the cams off and adjust the hydraulic lash adjusters of tighten down those springs. View attachment 295568
So is the only way the pin( D) will go in is if it's at TDC?Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
Yea definitely worth the 40 bucks and 2 day deliverythe gear placement isn't important, the phaser alignment is the key. Not sure how you want to make a holder if you don't have the correct phaser location to begin with...the $30 tool will correctly align/clock/position them so you can tighten it all down.
Hi! I tried following these instructions and many videos. I have the cams in the correct position ( U on bottom, flat on top), engine at TDC, etc... when I go to remove all the tools, "b" does not slide out easily. When it does come out, the cams shift, just slightly-- but it prevents me from easily re-inserting the tool. When I turn the engine 720 degrees, I am met with the same issue (cam is slightly off, requiring a little tug to get tool B in place again.
Should tool "B" just freely slide in and out after timing and rotating the engine, or is it okay that I have to slightly tug on it to lock in?
Thank you in advance!
Hey whats up, I had this exact problem. My exhaust cam would rock over about 20 degrees after pulling the lock tool out of the grooves. In my case it was the cam phaser that had to be changed out for a new one, they aren't supposed to move until the ECU says so.