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How-To: Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment

192972 Views 153 Replies 38 Participants Last post by  VegasSonic
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Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment

Overview:
There's a surprising lack of articles on this subject, so I'm writing an article on how to adjust timing on the 1.4L Turbo. This will need to be done any time you have to remove a cam, a sprocket, or the timing chain for any reason. Most enthusiasts will need this in order to upgrade valve springs. This tutorial is designed to help you understand what needs to be done to adjust timing and in what order and assumes that you are disconnecting the camshafts. Any time the camshaft bolts are removed, timing has to be adjusted.

If you're here reading this, it is assumed you have some mechanical aptitude and aren't intimidated by removing the cams, or you can afford to have your car inoperable for a weekend. This thread is intended to help you understand the function of each of the tools you are going to be using to set the timing. Ultimately it doesn't matter how you take apart the valvetrain or in what order, but it will certainly help to move things along smoothly if you follow the order I'll describe here.


Tools Required:
- 1.4L timing tool kit. You can get this on Amazon.com. This tool kit is absolutely required. You can find identical tool kits in blue boxes or use the Kent-Moore tool if you're lucky enough to find someone who has it or have deep pockets, but this low-cost option works perfectly.
- 22mm wrench
- Assortment of torx bits up to T50
- Ft Lb and In Lb Torque wrenches
- 24mm socket and extension


Parts Required:
- 2 x GM Camshaft Bolts, 55562224; Available on Amazon.com. These are TTY and MUST be replaced.


PART 1: TIMING TOOLS OVERVIEW
In order to do this job, you will need to buy the tool kit I listed or get the Kent-Moore equivalent (for several times the cost). I've marked each of the tool with a letter to make this easier.


Tool D is the crankshaft fixing tool, which holds the crank at perfectly TDC.
Tool E is the timing chain tensioner fixing tool, which locks the timing chain tensioner in a compressed position.
Tool B is the camshaft locking plate, which holds the camshafts aligned in the correct position relative to the crank at TDC.
Tool C is the intake sprocket holding tool. This is used to hold the intake sprocket in place in addition to maintaining the correct tension on the timing chain.
Tool A is the exciter ring positioning tool. The exciter rings have grooves in specific locations which are used by the sensors on the timing cover to read camshaft position and allow the ECU to manage valve timing. The exciter rings are not marked or grooved and are held in place by the clamping force of the TTY cam bolts.



PART 2: REMOVAL:
First thing you need to do is remove the valve cover, tutorial for that is here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129...-replace-valve-camshaft-cover-1-4l-turbo.html

Once you do that, you need Piston 1 (passenger-most piston) at approximately TDC. Easiest way to do this is is to remove all of the spark plugs and stick a straw down into the piston, then turn the crank. You can use the 22mm wrench on the cam to turn it, or give the alternator pulley a good twist with your hand. When the straw is at at the top, you're at approximately TDC.


Next, we're going to use Tool D, the "crank fixing tool". Get under the car and look for the following torx plug on the forward facing side of the engine just above the oil pan. Don't need to drain oil to do this.


Remove the plug and insert Tool D to lock the crank at TDC. The tool should go all the way in as shown below. If it doesn't, reach your hand up and turn the alternator pulley until the tool slides all the way in.


Next, go to the driver side of the engine. Right above the belt, but below the crankshaft position actuator solenoid valve, you'll find another torx plug. Remove this as well.


Remove the timing chain guide (the orange plastic thing between the sprockets held down by two bolts).

Place the 22mm wrench over the cam as shown below and pull toward the front of the car to stretch the chain against the tensioner.


While holding tension on the cam, insert tool E, the "timing chain tensioner fixing tool". This part is a bit tricky since you can't see anything in there and don't even know if you're going in straight. Just keep working at it. This picture will show you where you should be going. There is an upside-down "U" shape you need to slide the pin through.


You now have the crank locked at TDC and the timing chain tensioner locked in the compressed position. You are now ready to remove the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves from the side of the engine, remove the camshaft bolts, and do whatever else you might need to. Once you remove the camshaft bolts, the sprockets will simply rest on the timing cover, allowing you to work with the rest of the valvetrain easily.

Camshaft removal and reinstall will be outlined in another thread. During disassembly, be careful to organize all of the parts you take off so they can be placed back in exactly the same location. This includes camshaft rotation, rocker arms, and bearing caps. You will need to place everything back where it was before.

Next post will describe how to set timing during re-assembly.

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That's the problem, I can't find anything that fits the 2nd Gen 1.4. I just need to fix a camshaft that's out of timing. Everything online is for 1st Gen engines.
Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
Excellent work thanks a million.
Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
I removed the cams so that I could examine the rockers, hydraulic lash adjusters, and have the cylinder head pressure checked. I also had the valves replaced; my engine is at 180,000 miles and I figured I do it now since it's off to replace the head gasket already.
At this point the head is put back together, and I have the cams back on. But now when the cams are in alignment for the locking tool to be inserted, the exhaust valves for cylinder two stick out slightly. So the question is, can this be fixed without messing with the spring? Or (I doubt) would it be okay to proceed from here? I have a feeling I need to take the cams off and adjust the hydraulic lash adjusters of tighten down those springs.
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I removed the cams so that I could examine the rockers, hydraulic lash adjusters, and have the cylinder head pressure checked. I also had the valves replaced; my engine is at 180,000 miles and I figured I do it now since it's off to replace the head gasket already.
At this point the head is put back together, and I have the cams back on. But now when the cams are in alignment for the locking tool to be inserted, the exhaust valves for cylinder two stick out slightly. So the question is, can this be fixed without messing with the spring? Or (I doubt) would it be okay to proceed from here? I have a feeling I need to take the cams off and adjust the hydraulic lash adjusters of tighten down those springs. View attachment 295568
@JLL might be able to assist
Are you using factory cams?
Are you using factory cams?
Yeah the original cams. There looks to be very shallow scratching on the cams. Nothing like what is shown in the Haynes manual.
Yeah the original cams. There looks to be very shallow scratching on the cams. Nothing like what is shown in the Haynes manual.
Are the cams in the TDC position? All the valves should be closed on a stock setup in the TDC position.
Are the cams in the TDC position? All the valves should be closed on a stock setup in the TDC position.
They were locked at TDC before I had the valves replaced. The valves were replaced by someone else.
Now when they are are TDC, the intake cylinder 4 valves are slightly open, and the exhaust cylinder 2 valves are open. Both look like the attached picture in the previous message.
They were locked at TDC before I had the valves replaced. The valves were replaced by someone else.
Now when they are are TDC, the intake cylinder 4 valves are slightly open, and the exhaust cylinder 2 valves are open. Both look like the attached picture in the previous message.
I didn't take the cams/rockers/lashers to the shop; originally I was only getting a pressure check.
I didn't take the cams/rockers/lashers to the shop; originally I was only getting a pressure check.
Are you using locking tool in the back of the cams to make sure they're in the TDC position. The cams can rotate with the head off of the engine. Do you know what I'm talking about?
Are you using locking tool in the back of the cams to make sure they're in the TDC position. The cams can rotate with the head off of the engine. Do you know what I'm talking about?
Yeah I bought the kit off of amazon. One side of the end of the cam is thicker than the other half, so the place can only slide in with the cam in the correct position.
Yeah I bought the kit off of amazon. One side of the end of the cam is thicker than the other half, so the place can only slide in with the cam in the correct position.
That's not entirely true from my experiences. If the cams are both 180 degrees out of phase the tool will slide in but there will be some resistance. When the cams are correctly phased there is no resistance.
Both cams need to be oriented like this:
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I removed the cams so that I could examine the rockers, hydraulic lash adjusters, and have the cylinder head pressure checked. I also had the valves replaced; my engine is at 180,000 miles and I figured I do it now since it's off to replace the head gasket already.
At this point the head is put back together, and I have the cams back on. But now when the cams are in alignment for the locking tool to be inserted, the exhaust valves for cylinder two stick out slightly. So the question is, can this be fixed without messing with the spring? Or (I doubt) would it be okay to proceed from here? I have a feeling I need to take the cams off and adjust the hydraulic lash adjusters of tighten down those springs. View attachment 295568
Update:
I finally found this post! So, when the camshaft locking plate is placed correctly the slots are offset so that the plate should only lock in place with the correct alignment. If you do this before placing the head on the block like I did, you will see the valves slightly open like the picture above. If I remember correctly, you will see the fourth cylinder valves open enough to slide a note card in between the valve and head. The second cylinder valves should have enough of a cap to slide a penny in between. I spoke with a mechanic who owns a Cruze about this issue before putting the head back on the vehicle. And it's been three months since I completed the job ( during the Texas snow-pocalypse of 2022).
P.S. make sure you know the difference between in-lbs and ft-lbs before starting this job. And have a sharpie ready for tightening the head bolts.
Timing adjustment tutorial is complete. If anyone has any questions, let me know.
So is the only way the pin( D) will go in is if it's at TDC?
the gear placement isn't important, the phaser alignment is the key. Not sure how you want to make a holder if you don't have the correct phaser location to begin with...the $30 tool will correctly align/clock/position them so you can tighten it all down.
Yea definitely worth the 40 bucks and 2 day delivery
Hi! I tried following these instructions and many videos. I have the cams in the correct position ( U on bottom, flat on top), engine at TDC, etc... when I go to remove all the tools, "b" does not slide out easily. When it does come out, the cams shift, just slightly-- but it prevents me from easily re-inserting the tool. When I turn the engine 720 degrees, I am met with the same issue (cam is slightly off, requiring a little tug to get tool B in place again.

Should tool "B" just freely slide in and out after timing and rotating the engine, or is it okay that I have to slightly tug on it to lock in?

Thank you in advance!
Hi! I tried following these instructions and many videos. I have the cams in the correct position ( U on bottom, flat on top), engine at TDC, etc... when I go to remove all the tools, "b" does not slide out easily. When it does come out, the cams shift, just slightly-- but it prevents me from easily re-inserting the tool. When I turn the engine 720 degrees, I am met with the same issue (cam is slightly off, requiring a little tug to get tool B in place again.

Should tool "B" just freely slide in and out after timing and rotating the engine, or is it okay that I have to slightly tug on it to lock in?

Thank you in advance!

Here is a picture that roughly shows what I am seeing when I try:

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@XtremeRevolution

See above question
Here is a picture that roughly shows what I am seeing when I try:

View attachment 299201
Hey whats up, I had this exact problem. My exhaust cam would rock over about 20 degrees after pulling the lock tool out of the grooves. In my case it was the cam phaser that had to be changed out for a new one, they aren't supposed to move until the ECU says so.

I was able to change it out without pulling the timing cover and all the bullshit incorporated with that, but I caution anyone doing this to be super careful and capable. I had to lock the crank in TDC again, as well as the chain tensioner lock. Then remove the VVT solenoid from the and of the cam along with the sensors and magnetic pick up wheel. Then finally release the cam via the cam bearing journal caps. I was able to lift the cam out and barely get the phaser out of the chain, all while being careful to keep tension on the chain so it doesn't fall off the crank sprocket. Replaced it and slid the cam back into the new one. It was extremely risky though, you really have to take care not to damage the journals, then torque them back down and re-time it.

EDET: Looking back at your picture I don't think yours is as bad as mine was. Yours could just be that you didn't pull the chain hard enough with the tool provided in the kit (I use a pry bar to crank the wedge then tighten it, your goal is to get all the slack on the chain towards the firewall side). To verify this, lock your crank at TDC, and see if you can move the cam while the chain stays stationary with an open end wrench. Don't crank it hard though, If it moves then the phaser is bad.
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