Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

How to: DPF, DEF removal and downpipe/egr delete/oz tuning flash install.

127950 193
I took the time to do a full writeup on this mod. I’d like to give a specific shoutout to sparspangled6.0 and Aaron/VA for their contributions and most of the photos I utilized for this writeup. This project is not necessarily a beginner project and I’d suggest if you have no mechanical experience to seek the help of someone who does. This writeup is meant to be a GUIDE and should not be seen as an instruction sheet. Use common sense always!

Required tools:


  • 7mm,10mm,13mm,15mm,16mm socket (regular and deep)
  • 3/8 ratchet and small extensions
  • 10mm, 13mm,15mm open head wrench
  • Various crescent wrenches for sensors (forget the sizes)
  • Air ratchet (optional, but makes life so much easier)
  • Needlenose pliers
  • Vise-grips
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Ballpeen hammer
  • Small pry bar
  • PB blaster
  • Hex head socket set or long hex head wrench
  • Small pick for locking electrical connections


DPF Removal (credit to starspangled6.0):


  1. Park car on level ground and set parking brake, chock rear wheel to prevent any movement.
  2. Pop hood and disconnect battery connections.
  3. Remove engine cover and set aside
  4. Using a 10mm socket, take the upper heat shield off (4x 10mm bolts/nuts).
  5. Using a 16mm deep socket, loosen the DPF/Turbo clamp, spray with pb blaster
  6. Pull the NOX #1 Sensor, EGT #1 and EGT #2 Sensor from the DPF, set these aside safely (Don’t need to disconnect them). Use a crescent wrench or sensor socket to pull these sensors!
  7. O2 #1 Sensor remains in DPF until removed from vehicle. This sensor MUST be disconnected at the plug located along the radiator support.
  8. Remove as many bolts / nuts holding lower heat shield onto DPF before jacking up vehicle. They are all 10mm, and I believe you can access at least 4 of them from the topside of engine bay (one is tucked on the side of the DPF driver side while looking at vehicle, this one was tricky).
  9. Jack the front end of vehicle up as high as your equipment will allow for, and secure with jack stands. Re-check parking brake and never work under a vehicle without someone else around just in case!
  10. Crawl underneath the car, and using your flathead and 7mm wrenches, remove the lower engine splash guard. A combination of 7mm bolts and push pins are used to hold this splashguard in place.
  11. Spray exhaust flange bolts with PB blaster.
  12. Working from underneath the vehicle, remove the remaining 10mm bolts/nuts holding the lower heat shield onto the DPF. Ensure heat shield is totally unbolted from DPF and remove it from the TOP. (You may need to bend the lower portion of the heat shield in order for it to clear during removal)
  13. Be CAREFUL to thread O2 sensor wiring through heat shield during removal!
  14. Pull the 3 bolts from the exhaust flange (13mm)
  15. Next, remove the two bolts anchoring the DPF to the oil pan
  16. Next, you must unbolt the DPF bracket from the engine block and from the DPF. Remove the two bolts that hold the DPF to the bracket, and then remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block (access all of these bolts from underneath car and use air ratchet with extension and deep 15mm)
  17. Go back up to the DPF/Turbo clamp and remove the DPF from the turbo. Using a small pry bar and medium screwdriver, gently work the clamp off the DPF leaving it on the turbo. Avoid bending this clamp with pliers or channellocks. Save metal gasket for installation of downpipe
  18. The DPF should now be loose and drop slightly down towards the bottom of the car. Working from the top, locate the two vacuum lines on the driver side DPF and disconnect them (it helps to have the extra room to access the hose clamps if the DPF is hanging down off of its mounting brackets)
  19. Remove DPF unit from underneath vehicle. Be careful NOT to snag A/C connections!
  20. With the DPF out of the vehicle, use appropriately sized crescent wrench or sensor socket to remove O2 sensor from DPF.
  21. Using the appropriate sensor cleaning solution, clean all sensors that have been removed before reinstallation into race pipe.

Congratulations! You have now removed the DPF from your Chevy Cruze!

Oz Tuning Downpipe installation:

1. Each bung in the downpipe has been appropriately sized for each sensor. Thread the O2 sensor you just removed from the DPF into the appropriate bung in the downpipe before installation.

2. Place downpipe into position, reinstall metal exhaust gasket and work Turbo/downpipe clamp around new downpipe. Take your time and if possible, use two sets of hands.
3. Go underneath the vehicle and hand-tighten exhaust flange bolts connecting downpipe to exhaust.
4. Re-install NOX #1 Sensor, EGT #1 sensor and EGT #2 Sensor

5. Vacuum lines removed from DPF are not utilizing with the downpipe
6. Ensure everything lines up and tighten down connections
7. Re-install lower engine splash guard
8. Lower vehicle back to ground level

EGR tube removal (credit to Aaron/VA):

1. Locate EGR tube on backside of engine block, near heater hoses and firewall
2. Remove 2 10mm bolts from EGR tube intake plate

3. Run your hand down the tube and locate the EGR sensor wire, trace this wire back and unplug it from connection on rear of engine block. This connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!
4. At the base of the EGR tube, locate two hex head bolts holding tube to EGR actuator valve, remove both bolts.

5. Looking down at the EGR tube, you will see a brownish/orange connection that goes to the EGR actuator, remove this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!
6. Remove the EGR tube and ensure both gaskets are removed from mating surfaces.

EGR delete plate install (credit to Aaron/VA):

1. Start with the lower plate, orient plate and gasket, thread bolts into plate and gasket first, then put into place and tighten at engine block

2. Same with intake-side plate, orient and thread bolts through plate and gasket, then attach to intake.

3. Install 3 NPT plugs into intake-side plate using thread sealant.

OZ tuning ECM recalibration / Flash:

1. Locate the Throttle Valve connection in engine bay, it is located underneath the throttle valve and is pain in the butt to get at! Unplug this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!!!!!
2. Re-connect battery if you haven’t already done so.
3. Follow OZ tuning directions included in with your software.
4. ENJOY!

DEF tank removal (optional):

1. Remove trunk contents, trunk carpet, trunk floor.
2. Using the needlenose pliers, remove the 3 holddown bolts from top of DEF tank
3. Remove Styrofoam cover
4. Locate DEF tank and remove both feed and return DEF lines from top of tank.
5. Remove large electrical connection from rear of DEF tank
6. Locate 3 13mm bolts holding DEF tank to well, remove bolts.
7. Pull tank and components

Some additional notes I took while I did this install:


  • I did this whole mod by myself, overall took about 5.5 hours with beer and lunch breaks
  • Get as much as you can done with the car on the ground, and then put it up to work underneath. It's a PITA to get to the engine bay with the car on jackstands
  • Spray the downpipe/turbo clamp and exhaust flange bolts with some PB blaster before you begin to work
  • Disconnect the battery before attempting to remove the EGR tube...if you wrench hits the starter bracket it will arch!
  • The vacuum hoses that are removed from the DPF don't get re-attached
  • There are THREE electrical connections that remain unplugged after flashing the car with the OZ tune, the EGR sensor that is directly on the EGR tube that you remove, the Brown/Orange plug right next to the EGR tube (I believe its the EGR actuator), AND the plug underneath the Throttle Valve!
141 - 160 of 194 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
Yeah I forgot about that downpipe bung issue...that also threw me for a loop.

After 20 minutes of pondering, I realized each bung is sized differently so the sensors can only go in one way (even though very differently than stock locations).

EGT and O2 must be required for other calculations besides emissions, the tune just ensures the emissions computations remain happy at all times after parts “fell off”
yeah

makes sense.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
1. Locate the Throttle Valve connection in engine bay, it is located underneath the throttle valve and is pain in the butt to get at! Unplug this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!!!!!

You don't reconnect this after you tune it? The gas pedal doesn't work without it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
1. Locate the Throttle Valve connection in engine bay, it is located underneath the throttle valve and is pain in the butt to get at! Unplug this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!!!!!

You don't reconnect this after you tune it? The gas pedal doesn't work without it.
there is no gas pedal

the electrical connection to the throttle valve REMAINS UNPLUGGED FOREVER. car works perfect.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
Ok I guess I'll see when I install it. I just ordered it, but will be waiting to install. It's way too hot right now.
took me 6hrs, hour of that farting with rounded off 13mm nuts on the bottom exhaust connection and some time walking away being pissed.

pretty sure can bang it out in 4hrs if i had to do it again

if a person does basic maintenance experience and correct tools, this is within a persons reach.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,608 Posts
1. Locate the Throttle Valve connection in engine bay, it is located underneath the throttle valve and is pain in the butt to get at! Unplug this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!!!!!

You don't reconnect this after you tune it? The gas pedal doesn't work without it.
I find pictures help a lot...if you want to see the 3 connectors (throttle valve and 2 EGR) check out the picture of connectors on Post #99 this thread. All 3 connectors remain unplugged, no longer used.
 

· COTM Winner
2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
Joined
·
7,107 Posts
The throttle valve is not a throttle body in the typical sense, as diesels do not need those - it's not "directly" linked to the throttle pedal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: boraz and Rivergoer

· Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Hello, I've read thru this thread and had a few questions. I understand that the new tune disables the diesel exhaust fluid tank and it no longer works. Is there a way to keep this system turned on with the down pipe delete? Or would it cause some type of issues? Or is the diesel exhaust fluid sprayed into the diesel particulate filter, and with it being removed is now useless?

Sorry if they seem like dumb questions, I'm still learning about this style diesel engine.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
Hello, I've read thru this thread and had a few questions. I understand that the new tune disables the diesel exhaust fluid tank and it no longer works. Is there a way to keep this system turned on with the down pipe delete? Or would it cause some type of issues? Or is the diesel exhaust fluid sprayed into the diesel particulate filter, and with it being removed is now useless?

Sorry if they seem like dumb questions, I'm still learning about this style diesel engine.
the tune disables dpf/scr/egr

the def is sprayed into the scr (under the car)

the computer sprays the def to reduce the nox.

the tune makes the computer not care aboot the nox

the dpf collects the soot (or the particulate ((hence diesel particulate filter or dpf))...til its full then it burns it off to clean it so it can start collecting it again

the downpipe doesnt have a filter, so if you were to just run the downpipe and the stock tune, the car would not understand the readings its getting and youd get CELs instantly and countdown to death and your car wont work.

you can leave the car stock

or you can delete tune and install downpipe (or you could put a pry bar up into the dpf and destroy the filter creating a defacto downpipe)

theres no other options
 

· Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
the tune disables dpf/scr/egr

the def is sprayed into the scr (under the car)

the computer sprays the def to reduce the nox.

the tune makes the computer not care aboot the nox

the dpf collects the soot (or the particulate ((hence diesel particulate filter or dpf))...til its full then it burns it off to clean it so it can start collecting it again

the downpipe doesnt have a filter, so if you were to just run the downpipe and the stock tune, the car would not understand the readings its getting and youd get CELs instantly and countdown to death and your car wont work.

you can leave the car stock

or you can delete tune and install downpipe (or you could put a pry bar up into the dpf and destroy the filter creating a defacto downpipe)

theres no other options
Thank you for the info, let me ask a "what if" question, more so for my learning on this system.

If the DEF tank stayed enabled after the DPF delete and new tune, would it still help reduce NOX exhaust? Or is this only effective in combination with the DPF doing what it does?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
Thank you for the info, let me ask a "what if" question, more so for my learning on this system.

If the DEF tank stayed enabled after the DPF delete and new tune, would it still help reduce NOX exhaust? Or is this only effective in combination with the DPF doing what it does?
in theory yeah, in application, no.

nox is created from high combustion temp

egr is used to lower the temp...so less nox...but egr is bad for engines life, reduces power, reduces mpg

delete turns off egr, so creates more nox

stock tune isnt set up to handle more nox and car will have issues

delete tune turns off nox readings or at least tells the computer errything is good, nothing to see here...

youd need programming exp to 'enable' the def....whether it be to just randomly inject it into the scr and reduce the nox or to turn it on when sensors show high readings

during regen of the dpf is when youre gonna see the highest exh temps, so highest nox readings...so every regen creates nox....definitely will be def in use during the regens.....is there high enough nox readings any other time?? i dont know

delete turns off the regen, so eliminating the need for def that would normally be used then.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Hello,
I've purchased the delete kit from dalessuperstore.com. It arrived quickly but with no instructions .... I emailed them for some info and received a couple of image files of a couple paragraphs of text which seem incomplete to me.
I've read this thread and there is a lot of great info here, many thanks for sharing ..... but I'm after something a little more detailed on the step by step of the flashing of the ECU, installing the tune etc.
Any help would be awesome !

I've attached what info I've received from dales.
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
2,608 Posts
^^^^This is the same thing I got too......vague at best but it’s all they give ya.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
Boraz,what was the cost for the pipe and tune? I'm in Canada like you and am considering a tune.Thanks in advance.
downpipe $262
tune $999
egr block $86
SHIPPING $310 thx UPS

so $1655 US, so $2200 CAD

then another $200 cad for COD, again thx UPS

gm dealer quoted me $2700 CAD for replacement dpf (part only) plus labor etc..

so im still cheaper than replacement cost, and now the rest of the system isnt gonna cost anymore money.


the $500 for shipping was retarded though, its a small light box....ive had 90# cast iron table saw wing shipped for <$100 from states...ive had electric guitars in flight cases shipped for less

but such is life.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Thanks for the info.Wow,UPS is a bunch of robbers.Where did you buy from? If i'm keeping mine now out of warranty and after the dealer having to pull the head to clean the cabon(warranty thankfully) the delete is the way to go.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
downpipe $262
tune $999
egr block $86
SHIPPING $310 thx UPS

so $1655 US, so $2200 CAD

then another $200 cad for COD, again thx UPS

gm dealer quoted me $2700 CAD for replacement dpf (part only) plus labor etc..

so im still cheaper than replacement cost, and now the rest of the system isnt gonna cost anymore money.


the $500 for shipping was retarded though, its a small light box....ive had 90# cast iron table saw wing shipped for <$100 from states...ive had electric guitars in flight cases shipped for less

but such is life.
Where abouts are you boraz ??

I purchased my kit from dalessuperstore.com for $1346.57 USD with free shipping in USA ..... I'm lucky enough to live 10 minutes from the border, so I order to Sumas in Washington state and drive down and pick up myself.
My total was :
$1,827.31 CAD for the kit
$219.28 CAD Taxes at the border
-----------------------------------
$2046.59 CAD All in
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,992 Posts
Where abouts are you boraz ??

I purchased my kit from dalessuperstore.com for $1346.57 USD with free shipping in USA ..... I'm lucky enough to live 10 minutes from the border, so I order to Sumas in Washington state and drive down and pick up myself.
My total was :
$1,827.31 CAD for the kit
$219.28 CAD Taxes at the border
-----------------------------------
$2046.59 CAD All in
im near 100 mile house....

so its a 10hr plus round trip to the border and back....ill happily for shipping to my house...the COD was WTF...i already paid shipping and brokerage, but w/e just gimme my sh!t.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I completed my delete today ..... put about 30km on so far road testing, seems good !! Very much a different car now, a lot more guts, much reduced turbo lag.
Many thanks to HarleyGTP for the original post, awesome write up ! And thanks joshpjost for the instruction sheet, it was very helpful.
I changed the order of operations for the delete .... I had the "Def Quality Poor" message and the resulting countdown to death, my biggest concern was flashing the ECU and clearing up all that nonsense. So after disconnecting the EGR actuator, EGR sensor, and throttle valve actuator, I proceeded to immediately flash the ECU. I figured if it didn't work there was no point in continuing with everything else. A couple of 1 minute engine runs to ensure everything was good and wasn't throwing any codes, then I carried on.
I then removed the DPF filter and did a road test ..... I wanted to do this before the EGR so I would have a base line to know if I introduced any vacuum leaks when installing the blanking plates for the EGR. I probably shouldn't have worried, the EGR delete took 10 minutes and was the easiest part of the whole job.
Anyway thanks to all, I'm very happy I went this route rather than letting the dealer throw troubleshooting darts at it.

Cheers !
 
141 - 160 of 194 Posts
Top