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How to: DPF, DEF removal and downpipe/egr delete/oz tuning flash install.

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I took the time to do a full writeup on this mod. I’d like to give a specific shoutout to sparspangled6.0 and Aaron/VA for their contributions and most of the photos I utilized for this writeup. This project is not necessarily a beginner project and I’d suggest if you have no mechanical experience to seek the help of someone who does. This writeup is meant to be a GUIDE and should not be seen as an instruction sheet. Use common sense always!

Required tools:


  • 7mm,10mm,13mm,15mm,16mm socket (regular and deep)
  • 3/8 ratchet and small extensions
  • 10mm, 13mm,15mm open head wrench
  • Various crescent wrenches for sensors (forget the sizes)
  • Air ratchet (optional, but makes life so much easier)
  • Needlenose pliers
  • Vise-grips
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Ballpeen hammer
  • Small pry bar
  • PB blaster
  • Hex head socket set or long hex head wrench
  • Small pick for locking electrical connections


DPF Removal (credit to starspangled6.0):


  1. Park car on level ground and set parking brake, chock rear wheel to prevent any movement.
  2. Pop hood and disconnect battery connections.
  3. Remove engine cover and set aside
  4. Using a 10mm socket, take the upper heat shield off (4x 10mm bolts/nuts).
  5. Using a 16mm deep socket, loosen the DPF/Turbo clamp, spray with pb blaster
  6. Pull the NOX #1 Sensor, EGT #1 and EGT #2 Sensor from the DPF, set these aside safely (Don’t need to disconnect them). Use a crescent wrench or sensor socket to pull these sensors!
  7. O2 #1 Sensor remains in DPF until removed from vehicle. This sensor MUST be disconnected at the plug located along the radiator support.
  8. Remove as many bolts / nuts holding lower heat shield onto DPF before jacking up vehicle. They are all 10mm, and I believe you can access at least 4 of them from the topside of engine bay (one is tucked on the side of the DPF driver side while looking at vehicle, this one was tricky).
  9. Jack the front end of vehicle up as high as your equipment will allow for, and secure with jack stands. Re-check parking brake and never work under a vehicle without someone else around just in case!
  10. Crawl underneath the car, and using your flathead and 7mm wrenches, remove the lower engine splash guard. A combination of 7mm bolts and push pins are used to hold this splashguard in place.
  11. Spray exhaust flange bolts with PB blaster.
  12. Working from underneath the vehicle, remove the remaining 10mm bolts/nuts holding the lower heat shield onto the DPF. Ensure heat shield is totally unbolted from DPF and remove it from the TOP. (You may need to bend the lower portion of the heat shield in order for it to clear during removal)
  13. Be CAREFUL to thread O2 sensor wiring through heat shield during removal!
  14. Pull the 3 bolts from the exhaust flange (13mm)
  15. Next, remove the two bolts anchoring the DPF to the oil pan
  16. Next, you must unbolt the DPF bracket from the engine block and from the DPF. Remove the two bolts that hold the DPF to the bracket, and then remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block (access all of these bolts from underneath car and use air ratchet with extension and deep 15mm)
  17. Go back up to the DPF/Turbo clamp and remove the DPF from the turbo. Using a small pry bar and medium screwdriver, gently work the clamp off the DPF leaving it on the turbo. Avoid bending this clamp with pliers or channellocks. Save metal gasket for installation of downpipe
  18. The DPF should now be loose and drop slightly down towards the bottom of the car. Working from the top, locate the two vacuum lines on the driver side DPF and disconnect them (it helps to have the extra room to access the hose clamps if the DPF is hanging down off of its mounting brackets)
  19. Remove DPF unit from underneath vehicle. Be careful NOT to snag A/C connections!
  20. With the DPF out of the vehicle, use appropriately sized crescent wrench or sensor socket to remove O2 sensor from DPF.
  21. Using the appropriate sensor cleaning solution, clean all sensors that have been removed before reinstallation into race pipe.

Congratulations! You have now removed the DPF from your Chevy Cruze!

Oz Tuning Downpipe installation:

1. Each bung in the downpipe has been appropriately sized for each sensor. Thread the O2 sensor you just removed from the DPF into the appropriate bung in the downpipe before installation.

2. Place downpipe into position, reinstall metal exhaust gasket and work Turbo/downpipe clamp around new downpipe. Take your time and if possible, use two sets of hands.
3. Go underneath the vehicle and hand-tighten exhaust flange bolts connecting downpipe to exhaust.
4. Re-install NOX #1 Sensor, EGT #1 sensor and EGT #2 Sensor

5. Vacuum lines removed from DPF are not utilizing with the downpipe
6. Ensure everything lines up and tighten down connections
7. Re-install lower engine splash guard
8. Lower vehicle back to ground level

EGR tube removal (credit to Aaron/VA):

1. Locate EGR tube on backside of engine block, near heater hoses and firewall
2. Remove 2 10mm bolts from EGR tube intake plate

3. Run your hand down the tube and locate the EGR sensor wire, trace this wire back and unplug it from connection on rear of engine block. This connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!
4. At the base of the EGR tube, locate two hex head bolts holding tube to EGR actuator valve, remove both bolts.

5. Looking down at the EGR tube, you will see a brownish/orange connection that goes to the EGR actuator, remove this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!
6. Remove the EGR tube and ensure both gaskets are removed from mating surfaces.

EGR delete plate install (credit to Aaron/VA):

1. Start with the lower plate, orient plate and gasket, thread bolts into plate and gasket first, then put into place and tighten at engine block

2. Same with intake-side plate, orient and thread bolts through plate and gasket, then attach to intake.

3. Install 3 NPT plugs into intake-side plate using thread sealant.

OZ tuning ECM recalibration / Flash:

1. Locate the Throttle Valve connection in engine bay, it is located underneath the throttle valve and is pain in the butt to get at! Unplug this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!!!!!
2. Re-connect battery if you haven’t already done so.
3. Follow OZ tuning directions included in with your software.
4. ENJOY!

DEF tank removal (optional):

1. Remove trunk contents, trunk carpet, trunk floor.
2. Using the needlenose pliers, remove the 3 holddown bolts from top of DEF tank
3. Remove Styrofoam cover
4. Locate DEF tank and remove both feed and return DEF lines from top of tank.
5. Remove large electrical connection from rear of DEF tank
6. Locate 3 13mm bolts holding DEF tank to well, remove bolts.
7. Pull tank and components

Some additional notes I took while I did this install:


  • I did this whole mod by myself, overall took about 5.5 hours with beer and lunch breaks
  • Get as much as you can done with the car on the ground, and then put it up to work underneath. It's a PITA to get to the engine bay with the car on jackstands
  • Spray the downpipe/turbo clamp and exhaust flange bolts with some PB blaster before you begin to work
  • Disconnect the battery before attempting to remove the EGR tube...if you wrench hits the starter bracket it will arch!
  • The vacuum hoses that are removed from the DPF don't get re-attached
  • There are THREE electrical connections that remain unplugged after flashing the car with the OZ tune, the EGR sensor that is directly on the EGR tube that you remove, the Brown/Orange plug right next to the EGR tube (I believe its the EGR actuator), AND the plug underneath the Throttle Valve!
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I called the company I purchased the kit from (dalessuperstore.com) and they still have not got back to me on the issue. I did however discover that my turbo problems while starting out it was the ball and spring in the interrupter valve for the turbo controller, the cheap turbo line that is sent with the kits cant really withstand the heat. The line is fine when the car is cool and the turbo goes ape crap, but once the car warms up and theirs enough heat under the hood to warm up that cheap tube it will fold causing a failure in the turbo and a massive loss of power.
Suggestion, if you purchase a $50 dual stage turbo controller, ensure you purchase some real turbo tube in addition.
I don't know how many people are familiar with using the OZ tuner as a monitoring device, scan tool, and for tuning through the pc software on the website. Just download, plug your OZ tuner into the odb 2 port, plug the additional cord into the computer, complete setup, and have at. I am selective with it right now because I am trying to learn to use the software.
My Cruze is my daily driver as well, the reason I had to do the delete in the first place is due to the fact that the cruze diesel and city driving don't really get along well with that DPF regen system, and my dpf decided to go through a massive failure.. There is never any time for it to complete a regen process, that accompanied with the fact that these cars are designed to do a regen without the operator being aware makes it nearly impossible for the DPF system to fully function properly the life of the car.

I have had the kit completed for about a week or better now and I notice a huge difference in power, yet, the fuel mileage has decreased. I am not really worried about that too much at the moment because of the way I drive, and I am still doing my tinkering with everything.

I would like to add to the post about the DPF Delete, If you are going to spend the money to complete the DPF Delete kit on the vehicle, go the extra few hundred bux and do the EGR, remove the Tank, and install a K&N Cold air kit. It opens this car up so much more without the delete, with the delete. I can burn the **** out of the tires through first and second gear, with the increased power from everything at the moment. As for sound, the Downpipe gives it that growl like a diesel, and the K&N cold air kit makes it deeper under the hood as well as hiss at low rpm climbs. I was parked in front of my sisters garage (She has a 15 cruze non-turbo gas model) She made the comment after I remote started the car that It sounded like a big truck.

So far I love it, if anyone has any further suggestions for options don't hesitate to let me know.. I am trying to turn this thing into a monster..
There is a statement in this gentleman's comment that is interesting and maybe overlooked by many readers. The Chevy Cruze 2.0 diesel has a problem with turbo boost loss after the engine warms up and then is shut down and then ran again. Many may have noticed this when driving home and you make a stop at the store and then start up and finish your drive but the power in the car is all the sudden lost. I never understood why this happens until now. Sounds like the turbo tube, once warm, kinks or bends restricting the boost. Can someone point out which turbo tube is being referred to here and if there is a solution or replacement tube recommended?
 

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Just checking eBay now, Aug 2019, and I can't find any proper tuner kits with the dpf delete pipe. Where did you find your tune?
Thanks.
I ordered and received mine directly from OZ Tuner mid-August. I called directly on the phone. Everything was in stock. I already have an EFILive FlashScan tool from tuning on my Duramax pickup, so that saved me about $400 on buying the AutoCal. I'm just getting started on the install, after having the DownPipe ceramic coated in & out.
 

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Just some FYI the EPA is going after Tuning companies, so if you are on the fence I would jump on it now if you can find the parts. I know the guys over at GDE for the Eco Diesel for the Ram 1500 trucks have stopped all production and sales of tunes. Which sucks.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Maybe GM's inability to properly market this vehicle might be a benefit after all - they won't know to look for parts/tunes. :LOL:
 

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Seems like I may have missed my window for this based on avalibity of parts and tunes. My '14 just hit 100k and I completed the timing belt job just in time for it to start throwing P249E codes. I'm really dreading taking it to the dealer to get raked over the coals for a car that doesn't blue book at 5k.

Am I correct that these parts arent avalible anymore? I understand the RPM act really killed them and nobody is going to openly advertise them.

Anybody know of P249E solutions without throwing parts at it? That's all if found after searching the web for hours.
 

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I did it myself, was a bit of an undertaking but overall not too bad. I only had about $220 in parts including the belt, water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys. I think I could have had it done in 4-5 hours but when I was reinstalling the crank pulley I didn't notice the alignment pin and cracked the balancer. Took a full week to find one at a scrap yard and have it shipped to me because GM didn't have any in stock anywhere in the US.
 

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I took the time to do a full writeup on this mod. I’d like to give a specific shoutout to sparspangled6.0 and Aaron/VA for their contributions and most of the photos I utilized for this writeup. This project is not necessarily a beginner project and I’d suggest if you have no mechanical experience to seek the help of someone who does. This writeup is meant to be a GUIDE and should not be seen as an instruction sheet. Use common sense always!

Required tools:


  • 7mm,10mm,13mm,15mm,16mm socket (regular and deep)
  • 3/8 ratchet and small extensions
  • 10mm, 13mm,15mm open head wrench
  • Various crescent wrenches for sensors (forget the sizes)
  • Air ratchet (optional, but makes life so much easier)
  • Needlenose pliers
  • Vise-grips
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Ballpeen hammer
  • Small pry bar
  • PB blaster
  • Hex head socket set or long hex head wrench
  • Small pick for locking electrical connections

DPF Removal (credit to starspangled6.0):


  1. Park car on level ground and set parking brake, chock rear wheel to prevent any movement.
  2. Pop hood and disconnect battery connections.
  3. Remove engine cover and set aside
  4. Using a 10mm socket, take the upper heat shield off (4x 10mm bolts/nuts).
  5. Using a 16mm deep socket, loosen the DPF/Turbo clamp, spray with pb blaster
  6. Pull the NOX #1 Sensor, EGT #1 and EGT #2 Sensor from the DPF, set these aside safely (Don’t need to disconnect them). Use a crescent wrench or sensor socket to pull these sensors!
  7. O2 #1 Sensor remains in DPF until removed from vehicle. This sensor MUST be disconnected at the plug located along the radiator support.
  8. Remove as many bolts / nuts holding lower heat shield onto DPF before jacking up vehicle. They are all 10mm, and I believe you can access at least 4 of them from the topside of engine bay (one is tucked on the side of the DPF driver side while looking at vehicle, this one was tricky).
  9. Jack the front end of vehicle up as high as your equipment will allow for, and secure with jack stands. Re-check parking brake and never work under a vehicle without someone else around just in case!
  10. Crawl underneath the car, and using your flathead and 7mm wrenches, remove the lower engine splash guard. A combination of 7mm bolts and push pins are used to hold this splashguard in place.
  11. Spray exhaust flange bolts with PB blaster.
  12. Working from underneath the vehicle, remove the remaining 10mm bolts/nuts holding the lower heat shield onto the DPF. Ensure heat shield is totally unbolted from DPF and remove it from the TOP. (You may need to bend the lower portion of the heat shield in order for it to clear during removal)
  13. Be CAREFUL to thread O2 sensor wiring through heat shield during removal!
  14. Pull the 3 bolts from the exhaust flange (13mm)
  15. Next, remove the two bolts anchoring the DPF to the oil pan
  16. Next, you must unbolt the DPF bracket from the engine block and from the DPF. Remove the two bolts that hold the DPF to the bracket, and then remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block (access all of these bolts from underneath car and use air ratchet with extension and deep 15mm)
  17. Go back up to the DPF/Turbo clamp and remove the DPF from the turbo. Using a small pry bar and medium screwdriver, gently work the clamp off the DPF leaving it on the turbo. Avoid bending this clamp with pliers or channellocks. Save metal gasket for installation of downpipe
  18. The DPF should now be loose and drop slightly down towards the bottom of the car. Working from the top, locate the two vacuum lines on the driver side DPF and disconnect them (it helps to have the extra room to access the hose clamps if the DPF is hanging down off of its mounting brackets)
  19. Remove DPF unit from underneath vehicle. Be careful NOT to snag A/C connections!
  20. With the DPF out of the vehicle, use appropriately sized crescent wrench or sensor socket to remove O2 sensor from DPF.
  21. Using the appropriate sensor cleaning solution, clean all sensors that have been removed before reinstallation into race pipe.
Congratulations! You have now removed the DPF from your Chevy Cruze!

Oz Tuning Downpipe installation:

1. Each bung in the downpipe has been appropriately sized for each sensor. Thread the O2 sensor you just removed from the DPF into the appropriate bung in the downpipe before installation.

2. Place downpipe into position, reinstall metal exhaust gasket and work Turbo/downpipe clamp around new downpipe. Take your time and if possible, use two sets of hands.
3. Go underneath the vehicle and hand-tighten exhaust flange bolts connecting downpipe to exhaust.
4. Re-install NOX #1 Sensor, EGT #1 sensor and EGT #2 Sensor

5. Vacuum lines removed from DPF are not utilizing with the downpipe
6. Ensure everything lines up and tighten down connections
7. Re-install lower engine splash guard
8. Lower vehicle back to ground level

EGR tube removal (credit to Aaron/VA):

1. Locate EGR tube on backside of engine block, near heater hoses and firewall
2. Remove 2 10mm bolts from EGR tube intake plate

3. Run your hand down the tube and locate the EGR sensor wire, trace this wire back and unplug it from connection on rear of engine block. This connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!
4. At the base of the EGR tube, locate two hex head bolts holding tube to EGR actuator valve, remove both bolts.

5. Looking down at the EGR tube, you will see a brownish/orange connection that goes to the EGR actuator, remove this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!
6. Remove the EGR tube and ensure both gaskets are removed from mating surfaces.

EGR delete plate install (credit to Aaron/VA):

1. Start with the lower plate, orient plate and gasket, thread bolts into plate and gasket first, then put into place and tighten at engine block

2. Same with intake-side plate, orient and thread bolts through plate and gasket, then attach to intake.

3. Install 3 NPT plugs into intake-side plate using thread sealant.

OZ tuning ECM recalibration / Flash:

1. Locate the Throttle Valve connection in engine bay, it is located underneath the throttle valve and is pain in the butt to get at! Unplug this connection, this connection REMAINS UNPLUGGED!!!!!
2. Re-connect battery if you haven’t already done so.
3. Follow OZ tuning directions included in with your software.
4. ENJOY!

DEF tank removal (optional):

1. Remove trunk contents, trunk carpet, trunk floor.
2. Using the needlenose pliers, remove the 3 holddown bolts from top of DEF tank
3. Remove Styrofoam cover
4. Locate DEF tank and remove both feed and return DEF lines from top of tank.
5. Remove large electrical connection from rear of DEF tank
6. Locate 3 13mm bolts holding DEF tank to well, remove bolts.
7. Pull tank and components

Some additional notes I took while I did this install:


  • I did this whole mod by myself, overall took about 5.5 hours with beer and lunch breaks
  • Get as much as you can done with the car on the ground, and then put it up to work underneath. It's a PITA to get to the engine bay with the car on jackstands
  • Spray the downpipe/turbo clamp and exhaust flange bolts with some PB blaster before you begin to work
  • Disconnect the battery before attempting to remove the EGR tube...if you wrench hits the starter bracket it will arch!
  • The vacuum hoses that are removed from the DPF don't get re-attached
  • There are THREE electrical connections that remain unplugged after flashing the car with the OZ tune, the EGR sensor that is directly on the EGR tube that you remove, the Brown/Orange plug right next to the EGR tube (I believe its the EGR actuator), AND the plug underneath the Throttle Valve!
So I am trying to fan the down pipe as no shop will for me. What are the specifications of that pipe and its sensor plugs
 

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So I am trying to fan the down pipe as no shop will for me. What are the specifications of that pipe and its sensor plugs
If I were to undertake this task, I'd remove the DPF and build a weld fixture from the inlet to outlet location, then fab the pipe accordingly. The O2 sensor bung is fairly easy to obtain, as well as temperature sensors bungs, Summit racing seems to stock these kinds of parts, and perhaps you can also find the inlet and outlet flanges there as well. Once you make the fixture based on the DPF, you can put it back in and drive as normal until you complete the pipe and have all the needed computer tunes to get it working.

It will be a project for sure.

Good luck.
 

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Hello Folks, just joined up after half a decade of eyeballing.

I'm having issues trying to install my EFI Live Tune. I lost my instructions that came with it and now don't know what to do? The one that was posted here doesn't jive with what I'm seeing in the tune device when plugged in?

I've submitted help to EFI Live

Please help

I believe I purchased mine through OZ Tuner...no longer and business and OZ Tuning wont' help!!! ****
 

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Physical portion is complete! I left 3connectors unplugged; 1 under the Throttle Valve, 1 orange connector egr actustor. 1 that was connected to egr tube.
i’ve installed the tune as best as i csn following instruction posted here. It appears to have taken the tune.

i accepted the license
Install stocktune
Install cruzerace

moment of truth…car does not start! I know im late, and no one is probably monitoring this anymore, please someone that can guide me i will send beer!!!
 
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