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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
STEP 1/2

Donor:
2011 Cruze ECO MT 85K miles
Receiver:
2014 Cruze ECO MT 135K miles
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Short intro:
I had the 2011 Eco MT since new and I kept it in very good conditions until a stupid teenager was texting and driving and rear-ended me badly at a stop light. Airbags deployed, car was rear damaged very bad and also some damages to the front. Mechanically the car was functional and first thought was to fix it. After I put in balance the time & cost I realized it won’t worth and I decided not to do it.
I started looking for a "receiver" and found the perfect match, a 2014 Eco MT in OH, over 135K miles. The car was a daily commuter for a military person. I got it for a very good price, the car was drivable but the engine very lazy powerless, some leakage here and there but it was exactly what I was looking for and I got it for a great price!

This presentation will be a guidance of how I did the swap with main steps and major issues, rather than a detailed tutorial. You need skills, tools and patience! :)
The full swap took 4 days for us (2 separate weekends). Plus another additional day for me to finalize other details, do tests, clean codes, etc.
Kudos to my best friend Dan who helped me a lot to get this engine swap successfully done!

We decided to do the engine swap in 2 big steps:
1.Remove the engine & trans from 2011. Change the pressure plate, clutch disk and slave cylinder. Clean and check turbo, harness and everything else around engine.
2.Remove the engine and trans from 2014 and replace these with the ones (already ready) from 2011.

STEP1: Cruze Eco 2011 – Engine Removal & Preparations
We decided to take out the engine and transmission as one piece from the top (including turbo, catalytic converter and everything else). Before we started I bought a 1T crane from HF that was surprisingly the perfect tool for this task:
1T Foldable Crane:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html
And additional ¼X35 Utility Chain:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-x-35-ft-chain-coil-47698.html
After removing the hood, first thing was to disconnect the battery and all the electrical connectors around the engine, fuel line, hoses, harness, etc. We drained the coolant and the transmission oil but not the oil from the engine, no need to do that. I just changed the oil on the day before the accident and I didn’t want to change it. Believe me it works, it won’t leak!
To disconnect the fuel line use this, of course from HF :)
Fuel Line Disconnect Tool:
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-line-and-ac-quick-disconnect-tool-6-pc-63595.html
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Then we disconnected the CV shafts, not too complicated but I recommend you to use this puller from AutoZone:
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-axle-flange-puller/oemtools-fwd-hub-puller/2050_0_0?fromString=search&make=&model=&year=
Other details: we did not swap the AC compressor but we took it out together with the engine from the 2011. The front bumper and radiator were also removed before we started.
The catalytic converter is attached to the flex pipe with 3 bolts, not a chance to remove them nicely, I ended up breaking 2 of them, the nuts were completely rusted. Here is a good tutorial if you want details:
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Keep always the engine tensioned to the crane using the chain fixed into the 2 engine supports! Release the screws from the left (after removing the air filter box) and right (after removing the battery tray) engine mounts. Release the engine and transmission mounts.
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2014/chevrolet/cruze/lt-trim/1-4l-l4-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-and-trans-mounting-scat/?part_number=13347453
Having the engine out of the car made things much easier. We cut 2 bolts and used them as guidance “pins” to slide out the manual transmission from the engine.
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My clutch disk was still in good condition but I replaced it anyway.
Warning: the 2011 diameter is 217.5mm vs 2014 that is 228.5mm! I kept the same transmission but just to be aware if you want to play with different generations..
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Major issue: the clutch kit I bought (Rockauto) has a slave cylinder that does NOT fit to the existing connection, not for 2011 nor for 2014! They sell this with the wrong part, the part doesn’t even look like the one they have in the picture for this kit.
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LUK Clutch Kit (04267):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6785976&cc=1446770&jsn=1
I had to buy a new separate Clutch Slave Cylinder 55563645:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-Cylinder-Part-55563645/dp/B00TA7V6BG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=Z0R2AUFE2F91&keywords=55563645&qid=1572200394&sprefix=55563645%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1
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Some additional seals to replace:
Seal output shaft (2x Timken 3543):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2011,cruze,1.4l+l4+turbocharged,1446770,transmission-manual,main+/+output+shaft+seal,8792
Catalyzer Gaskets (1x FEL-PRO 61676 + 1x FEL-PRO 61677):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2011,cruze,1.4l+l4+turbocharged,1446770,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836
We cleaned the harness, put it back on the engine and everything was ready to be swapped at this point..
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited by Moderator)
STEP 2/2

Donor:
2011 Cruze ECO MT 85K miles
Receiver:
2014 Cruze ECO MT 135K miles
STEP2: Cruze Eco 2012 – Engine Removal & Final Swap
Main issues discovered:
-2011 has 2 barometric sensors MAF vs one with dual role on 2014. We had to remove the original harness from 2011 engine that was ready to be mounted, get and clean also the harness from 2014 and put this on 2011 engine.
-2011 has the serpentine belt and all the wheels connected to it with 6 channels vs 5 channels on 2014. Since I didn't disconnect/swap the AC compressor from 2014, that pulley had 5 channels vs everything else that had 6 channels (swapped from 2011). I had to use the serpentine belt from 2014 and to match the pulley from the AC compressor and run on 5 channels on everything else. It works without problems.
The removal engine process from 2014 was faster than the 2011 since we had experience now. Major steps: remove the front bumper and the radiator plastic fan, disconnect the battery and take out its tray, disconnect the harness from the ECU, drain the coolant, drain the transmission oil, disconnect the CV shafts, disconnect all the harness connectors, remove the air filter box, disconnect the engine mounts from the frame, disconnect the exhaust flex pipe. In addition we removed the AC compressor from the engine but kept it connected to the hoses, I didn’t want the extra work for the AC system that was the main reason to keep it. Be careful with the compressor, it is heavy and it can damage the radiator we hold it to the frame with a strap and a piece of cardboard.
Putting the 2011 engine back on 2014 was relatively a reversal work with the only challenge to do a manual clutch bleeding at the end. We did a similar procedure like:
https://www.cruzetalk.com/threads/how-to-replace-clutch-fluid.44674/#post-681178
It took a few days until the clutch pedal got back to its normal “feeling” and I added a little bit more DOT 3 at the end but never had an issue to shift gears right after the swap.
Of course I added new oil to the manual transmission, easy since the 2011 was the only model with the level plug. I added the coolant and took out the air from the system. No issues with AC since I didn’t touch it, no issues with the brakes also.
I checked the turbo, yes it has the “normal tiny cracks” but never had an issue with it so I didn’t touch at this time.
Other changes:
-Removed the fog light and transferred from 2011 to 2014, there is a dedicated spot into the fuse box for their connector. I replaced the button also and everything worked like a charm, I have also the light indicator working!
-Swapped the 2 front seats since 11 had 3 manual adjustments vs only 2 on 14! The seat connector changed so I had some extra work to do, plus to replace the seat-belt connector from the seats since the safety cartridges deployed during the accident.
-The 2011 engine had already the
https://www.cruzetalk.com/threads/1-4-eco-thermostat-swap-221%C2%B0f-to-176%C2%B0f.225041/#post-3093705
-The 2011 also had the:
https://www.cruzetalk.com/threads/how-to-gm-1-4l-luv-luj-pcv-fix-kit-v2-install.230266/#post-3138666
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The gasoline tank on the 2011 was full but we took out the gasoline it in this way:
Open the trunk and to the right side you have the fuel pump module. Take out the main connector and put the plus from battery to the gray (13) and minus to the dark green & black (20). I cut the wires but you can add paper clips to pins and connect in that way to the battery.
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Admins, if you could, please combine my 2 threads in a single one, I just couldn't add more than 10 pics in one so I split them. Thanks!
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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That looks like a lot of work.

So, I am not sure. You had a 2011 manual that was smashed, got a 2014 with a crappy engine (Manual?) and installed the engine from the 2011 into the 2014. Which trans did you install?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Merged per your request. If you add another post before anyone else, I'll delete my posts if you have more to add.
Thanks a lot Blasirl!
Yes, the swap was done completely, 2011 ECO Engine and MT swapped into 2014 ECO (it was also MT).
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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Thanks a lot Blasirl!
Yes, the swap was done completely, 2011 ECO Engine and MT swapped into 2014 ECO (it was also MT).
No sweat. In the future, post to the max, and then just reply to yourself and do it again. I usually post my first one and then reserve one or two more places. You can always delete them if they were not needed.

So did you use the 2011 ECM and TCM?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No sweat. In the future, post to the max, and then just reply to yourself and do it again. I usually post my first one and then reserve one or two more places. You can always delete them if they were not needed.

So did you use the 2011 ECM and TCM?
Got it, thanks!
No, I moved the Engine and MT from 2011 but kept the existing electronics from 2014. It won't work otherwise without programming in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
2500 miles feedback:
I drove the car cautiously the first week then "normal", as I drove it before. The only minor issue I had was with the upstream oxygen sensor that I had to replace. I initially tried just to reset the code (p0420) a couple times but the code came back. I bought a new Bosh sensor (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6127746&cc=1446770&jsn=1) for $40 and the code didn't come back again after I replaced it.
My conclusion is that an engine swap for Cruze can be successfully done without major issues, at least if you stay into the same trim. The 2011 model seems to be a little different than 2012-2016 but I highlighted the issues I had.

P.S. I added a new remote starter "Compustar", the 1 button version and it works like a charm! Yes, for MT, I always had remote starters on my cars (MT) but I love this model in particular. It is simple and the range is wide, I can start my car from anywhere, inside home, inside work building, even I don't have a window where I can see the car in the parking lot! The same button opens the door and I set it up for 60 min to run (yes, I know, I know), so I don't have to restart it every 10 min in case I want to keep it running longer.
 

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