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How-To: Fuel Filter Change Cruze Diesel DIY

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Fuel filter part number is 22937279 which was superseded by 23456595 which was superseded by 23459023. 23459023 appears to be stamped on the latest filters, but 23456595 may be the part number that the dealership needs to find it.

So, here are more or less the steps for changing your fuel filter on a 2014 Cruze Turbo Diesel. I made a couple mistakes along the way and I am sure members of the forum can help clear up a few things that I was unsure about. So here goes:


1. Reverse the car up on ramps so that the rear wheels are on the ramps. There is no need to remove a tire to gain access.
Alloy wheel Tire Wheel Rim Automotive tire


2. Remove the 10MM nuts that hold the belly pan on (on the passenger side of the car). Best to use a deep well socket or extender. You will want to remove the plastic nuts and only loosen the metal one in the front(front of car). Loosening the metal one will allow you to pivot the pan out of the way. After you have removed all the plastic nuts, you will have to pull down firmly on the pan to get it to come loose. (Side note to those wondering about under car washing – there was a lot of salt up under the belly pan, so in order to clean the underside of your car,you will need to remove these.
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3. After the pan is pivoted out of the way, you can now use an 18MM socket to open the drain for the fuel filter. OK now, here is where I got confused. Fuel drained out of this, but it never stopped draining. So, after a while, I just loosened the whole housing, and removed it, and the fuel stopped coming out. I did not have a socket big enough for the housing, so I gently but firmly put a pair of vise grips on it,slightly at an angle so that I was able to keep rotating it until the fuel filter and cap came out.
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4. Once the fuel filter is out, you can snap it out of the housing much like the oil filter. Dump out any remaining fuel and then snap the new filter in.
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5. Replace the big blue o-ring on the filter cap. I gently pried the old one out with a flat head screwdriver.
6. Replace the tiny blue o-ring on the part that sticks the car. I used a tiny glasses screwdriver. I was a little nervous about this one because the new one seemed to fit a little loosely.
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7. Screw back in the filter cap until it is snug, then tighten a little bit more.
8. Tighten the 18MM drain plug. (This one seemed a bit fragile so I did not tighten it too much)
9. Turn the key to the on position until you hear the lift pump stop running. Do this at least 6 or 7 times. You will hear fuel gushing and bubbling.
10. Start the car and check for leaks. (Note: I ran mine fora while and then shut it off. I attempted to start it again a few minutes later, but it just cranked and stopped cranking. I cycled the key a couple more times, and it was fine after that.)
11 After satisfying yourself that everything is operating properly, reattach the belly pan, drive and enjoy!
12. Reset the fuel filter life monitor. It's under the Option tab on the DIC. Get it up on the display (the one where it says the % fuel filter life - not the one that says "Change Fuel FIlter".). To reset, push in on the outer button on the turn signal stock - it will ask you to confirm and then it should go back to 100%
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Ours is sitting at 9%, just over 34k miles currently, so looks like I'm getting closer to doing this.

So as far as draining it is concerned, if I loosen the drain nut, it'll drain forever? Or does it just seem like it, until you loosen the housing and dump it all? Perhaps it just gets a siphon going and pulls more fuel out of the lines? Water should drain out relatively quickly, since it'll always be at the bottom, the rest would just be straight diesel.

Unrelated, but neat to find (perhaps it was already posted that I didn't see): https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/corp...s]=497&cHash=eadf2557ba6f7b908baa7970c4eced8a
 

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I'm pretty sure that's who developed the OEM filter (so I'd assume, also who manufacturers the Delco).
 

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On another note - was able to get the filter kit for $74 or so on eBay. Since we're close, figured it was good to have on hand.
 

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Mine never stopped. There was WAY more than one housing full in the pan before I just removed the housing. Now I don't even bother to open to drain. I just go right for the housing.
Good to know - one less step! I'd guess it's a siphon effect, so it'll just keep going until it drains the tank. Thanks!

It's supposed to be "drained" every oil change, right? I'm guessing that is just a quick open, let it run for a few seconds and close, since you'll transition to diesel pretty quickly.

Filter should be here Friday, but I'll wait till the filter life hits 0%, then I'll change it.
 

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So you don't even bother when doing oil changes?

If it ever becomes cheaper for me to do them compared to the dealer, that'll be good to know.
 

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Nope. I've never touched the fuel filter except for when I change it, about every 40K+ miles (when it tells me to).
Excellent!
 

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I change my own fuel filters and I inspect the housing at each change. No signs of anything other than diesel. Then again, I have 154K miles on my car, so there's literally no time for anything to grow. There's always fresh fuel moving through.
Yep - you'd literally have to not drive your vehicle ever for bacteria to form. Otherwise, it's always moving in there.
 

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I'm not filling up with Biodiesel. No stations around me even carry it.

Also: plenty of people have had their Cruze diesels start up just fine into some severely cold weather, up in Canada. Our area doesn't put enough anti-gel in to handle those temps, since we don't normally see -20*F ambient, but when it hit -16F last year, the fuel gelled. If it had more anti-gel, it'd have been fine.
 

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-30°c while not plugged in. Waited for the glow plug light to go out and alive she came. Did crank a bit more but nothing that made me worry.
I think it has to be the anti-gel in the fuel. Diesel with anti-gel won't even make it below 0 without freezing.
 

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Closing in on 37k miles and I believe the DIC says 2% left on the fuel filter. We'll be driving down to North Carolina next Friday, so I need to get my ass under the car and change this here soon. Perhaps next weekend.

15% oil life left, so it may behoove us to get the oil changed too, since I believe the trip, being about 1400 miles in total, will be past the typical ~7500 mile oil change interval we've seen. Has been about 6000 miles since we had it changed, and we still have about 450 miles to put on it before we leave. Guess this one will be early. Oh well, it's only $40 for the dealer to do it - cheaper than I can do it for.
 

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How can the dealer do this with the Dexos2 and filter and not lose money?
I have no idea - but it specifically is for the Cruze Diesel. My guess has always been that it's more of a "gateway" deal to bring you in for other things.

If the dealer puts in the wrong oil, you can bet your ass I'm not letting my warranty be voided if something happens. I confirmed with them about 20,000 times that it was Dexos 2, though, before I had them do it last time. Same dealer that we've always had do our four free changes anyway.
 

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That's my plan - just take it out with a pan underneath. I'll let that (eventually) evaporate on its own in the garage or something.

Meant to do ours yesterday, but ran out of time. It's at 1%, but I'm not worried, considering it sat at 2% for a few weeks.

Did get the car washed (underbody spray as well) yesterday, so it should be clean enough underneath.
 

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It'd have to be a pretty big access port, I'd think.

Just changed the fuel filter tonight (after putting on the MSRs and Fuel Max's) - was quite happy I didn't even need to jack the car up to change it. Pretty easy!

Looks like I got about a quart of diesel drained out in total (didn't use the 18mm drain, just undid the whole housing). It's a nice shade of green - here's to hoping it evaporates pretty quickly.
 

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You're probably out of luck there. Unlike gasoline, diesel fuel is less volatile - more like oil. It'll take a long time to evaporate.
Oh, I know - I really dont have a problem leaving it there. I'll just soak it up with some rags if it takes too long, and accidentally trip and throw them in the trash or the recycle bin, haha.
 

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It really doesn't take that long and is super easy to remove the belly cover. It's only one side, not the whole underbelly. You'd have to cut a massive hole to make it work, and the likelihood of spilling fuel all over in the cover is high since you pretty much have to just pull the filter housing and dump to get it to stop flowing as everyone here has mentioned.
Agreed. It was quite easy to remove, even with the car being on the ground.
 

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One thing is our fuel here in the states sucks compared to Europe. If we would produce a better higher grade of fuel, I feel a lot of fuel related issues like soot and pollution would decrease and performance and mpg would increase. We are trying to get max economy from crappy fuel.
But that would be logical - why on earth would we want to do that?
 

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Deceiving it is because it's wet.

Let it sit to dry for a couple of weeks then compare it to a new and dry one.

When I did, mine turned a tan colour.
Yep - the dirt being saturated with moisture will appear darker. I'll have to see what ours looks like...if I can find it.
 

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I guess my first question is whether these are the same quality filters as OEM TP1003 with water repellent element or cheap imitation??

Rock lists the TP1015 for $21.79 and Amazon has it listed for $30.19 but it is not list under the 2015 Cruze CTD listings at this time.

ACDELCO TP1015 Fuel Filter | RockAuto

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-TP10...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
Given that the TP1015 is a MANN, I'm going to say it's the same filter as the OEM - which is also made by MANN.
 

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I have been running the Mann-Filter version. The ACDelco filter is made by Mann so there is no difference in performance.
I'm pretty sure it's the exact same part - Mann did the development of the OEM part - what's the cost difference?
 

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How can you tell it wasn't done?
 
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