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How-To: Fuel Filter Change Cruze Diesel DIY

114458 Views 143 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  MP81
Fuel filter part number is 22937279 which was superseded by 23456595 which was superseded by 23459023. 23459023 appears to be stamped on the latest filters, but 23456595 may be the part number that the dealership needs to find it.

So, here are more or less the steps for changing your fuel filter on a 2014 Cruze Turbo Diesel. I made a couple mistakes along the way and I am sure members of the forum can help clear up a few things that I was unsure about. So here goes:


1. Reverse the car up on ramps so that the rear wheels are on the ramps. There is no need to remove a tire to gain access.
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2. Remove the 10MM nuts that hold the belly pan on (on the passenger side of the car). Best to use a deep well socket or extender. You will want to remove the plastic nuts and only loosen the metal one in the front(front of car). Loosening the metal one will allow you to pivot the pan out of the way. After you have removed all the plastic nuts, you will have to pull down firmly on the pan to get it to come loose. (Side note to those wondering about under car washing – there was a lot of salt up under the belly pan, so in order to clean the underside of your car,you will need to remove these.
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3. After the pan is pivoted out of the way, you can now use an 18MM socket to open the drain for the fuel filter. OK now, here is where I got confused. Fuel drained out of this, but it never stopped draining. So, after a while, I just loosened the whole housing, and removed it, and the fuel stopped coming out. I did not have a socket big enough for the housing, so I gently but firmly put a pair of vise grips on it,slightly at an angle so that I was able to keep rotating it until the fuel filter and cap came out.
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4. Once the fuel filter is out, you can snap it out of the housing much like the oil filter. Dump out any remaining fuel and then snap the new filter in.
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5. Replace the big blue o-ring on the filter cap. I gently pried the old one out with a flat head screwdriver.
6. Replace the tiny blue o-ring on the part that sticks the car. I used a tiny glasses screwdriver. I was a little nervous about this one because the new one seemed to fit a little loosely.
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7. Screw back in the filter cap until it is snug, then tighten a little bit more.
8. Tighten the 18MM drain plug. (This one seemed a bit fragile so I did not tighten it too much)
9. Turn the key to the on position until you hear the lift pump stop running. Do this at least 6 or 7 times. You will hear fuel gushing and bubbling.
10. Start the car and check for leaks. (Note: I ran mine fora while and then shut it off. I attempted to start it again a few minutes later, but it just cranked and stopped cranking. I cycled the key a couple more times, and it was fine after that.)
11 After satisfying yourself that everything is operating properly, reattach the belly pan, drive and enjoy!
12. Reset the fuel filter life monitor. It's under the Option tab on the DIC. Get it up on the display (the one where it says the % fuel filter life - not the one that says "Change Fuel FIlter".). To reset, push in on the outer button on the turn signal stock - it will ask you to confirm and then it should go back to 100%
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
diesel - this is an excellent contribution to the diesel oeuvre.

A quick question: did you get a measurement on the filter housing nut? I'm curious to know the size of socket we'll need. I have a 32 mm one from Snap-On that's intended for oil filter housings. Maybe it'll work.

It's also possible that the O-ring will swell in the presence of diesel fuel.


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All I can confirm is that it is indeed bigger than the one used to change the oil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
could you please take a full picture of the panel you had to remove as theres not any on my 2010 2.0 diesel and my local dealer is useless i think this is whats causing water below the rear seat thanks
I will do this as soon as I get a chance to. Might not be until this weekend, as I work from dawn to dusk. But I don't think this would do a whole lot as it's a fibrous material and it does not appear to stop much liquid from gettting through. I think it's mainly for aero and sound insulation.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
thanks for the DIY does anyone happen to have the GM part number for fuel filter change kit? I'm going to be giving a it go at doing my own maintenance given that I will be putting at least 60k in miles a year on this car.
Someone else that drives as much as I do! :) I added the p/n to the first post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
if you dont mind me asking how much was the fuel filter kit? it looks like you can buy them from a gm dealer on ebay for around $80.
Got my first one for $84. Pretty deceptively elaborate filter and worth the money. There's a thread on here somewhere about it. I think you can get them for high $70s but I wanted to shop my local dealer and paid a couple bucks more to give them the business. List is like $120
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
As I mentioned in another thread, I ran across a new second part number while shopping for my fuel filter. I ordered the new part number 23456595 last week (Amazon - $78 with free shipping) and installed this afternoon. The dimensions looked identical to the OEM filter that I took out, and it contained the same O-rings as the kit with the other part number that everyone has been using. The only difference I could identify is that the circle of plastic tabs that goes around the bottom of the filter in the picture at FUEL FILTER | Genuine GM | 22937279 was now a solid circle instead of 6 tabs. Fit was good and everything worked after the initial priming of the system, so perhaps the change to the design of the bottom is the reason for the part number change or maybe it's a new supplier. Either way it works, though, so it seems it is safe to order 23456595 for the CTD fuel filters.
Thanks for the note. I wonder what the engineering reason for the difference is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
My change fuel filter just came up at 33,750 miles.
Does this coincide with your overall MPG as calculated by other methods?
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Ours is sitting at 9%, just over 34k miles currently, so looks like I'm getting closer to doing this.

So as far as draining it is concerned, if I loosen the drain nut, it'll drain forever? Or does it just seem like it, until you loosen the housing and dump it all? Perhaps it just gets a siphon going and pulls more fuel out of the lines? Water should drain out relatively quickly, since it'll always be at the bottom, the rest would just be straight diesel.

Unrelated, but neat to find (perhaps it was already posted that I didn't see): https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/corp...s]=497&cHash=eadf2557ba6f7b908baa7970c4eced8a
Mine never stopped. There was WAY more than one housing full in the pan before I just removed the housing. Now I don't even bother to open to drain. I just go right for the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Good to know - one less step! I'd guess it's a siphon effect, so it'll just keep going until it drains the tank. Thanks!

It's supposed to be "drained" every oil change, right? I'm guessing that is just a quick open, let it run for a few seconds and close, since you'll transition to diesel pretty quickly.

Filter should be here Friday, but I'll wait till the filter life hits 0%, then I'll change it.
I would only drain it if I got the "Water In Fuel" message. I've never had this message, nor any issues as a result of not draining, in 152K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
So you don't even bother when doing oil changes?

If it ever becomes cheaper for me to do them compared to the dealer, that'll be good to know.
Nope. I've never touched the fuel filter except for when I change it, about every 40K+ miles (when it tells me to).
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Diesel, are you like me and get fuel from the same couple of places? I'll fill up at 2 different stations that move a lot of diesel, so far so good. I haven't drained my fuel filter either but I'll be changing it at my next servicing.
Probably about 85% of the time I do fuel from the same 2 stations. One in Ohio and one in PA. The long range I get on a tank of fuel allows me to do that.

Well... maybe that is ok if you are able to get clean lab grade diesel or JP8 but if your like the rest of us, pump grade diesel is not really the best to let settle in your filter that long esp during the winter months. You know the filter housing is heated and diesel with a little moisture is known to become a breeding ground for bacteria growth. Ford diesels had a heated filter housing also and Ford had to issue a service bulletin to disable the heaters due to the over growth of bacteria in the housing from owners who did not drain the housing frequently:signs053: allowing a slimy sludge to form. PM is very important in maintaining a reliable running diesel from summer through the winter months! :go:. As Clint Eastwood would say "do you feel lucky"! :uhh: I treat my diesels as though I'm piloting them through the friendly sky's and can not afford a fuel problem at altitude.
I change my own fuel filters and I inspect the housing at each change. No signs of anything other than diesel. Then again, I have 154K miles on my car, so there's literally no time for anything to grow. There's always fresh fuel moving through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
The car will warn you when there's water in the fuel. Based on my experience so far with 154K miles in this car and countless miles in other diesels without issue, I will keep on keeping on. That being said, I do avoid stations that would seem to have slow sales of diesel. I do agree that there can be issues if you refill from the wrong place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I have about 32,000 miles on my CTD and am pretty sure my DIC still says ~40% filter life left. I am kind of hesitant to follow that but if 1,000 gals is really true then I'll keep on truckin.




Was gonna ask about the draining as well. Seems like it can't hurt, only help. I'll keep draining just because sometime I am forced to buy diesel from places that don't rotate their stock a lot.


UPDATE: just confirmed my dic indicates 52% fuel filter remaining and burned 825 gallons of fuel.
Interesting. it must have gotten reset along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Suppose that's probably the best explanation. Either way, I guess fuel used is a better guage of when to replace the filter rather than miles driven? I'll plan on replacing at 1000 gallons used.
I would agree with that 100%. Miles simply aren't relevant. In theory someone could buy a brand new Cruze and just idle it, never putting any miles on it. They would eventually get through 1000 gallons of fuel but would have zero miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
COh well, it's only $40 for the dealer to do it - cheaper than I can do it for.
How can the dealer do this with the Dexos2 and filter and not lose money?
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
I am having trouble taking the fuel filter cap with filter off the rest of the housing. The whole housing moves in the mounting bracket and when torqued it pops out instead of the cap and filter loosening. Has anyone else experienced this? I haven't seen anything about it anywhere and it makes me think they forgot something at the factory to secure the housing. It literally just rattles around up in there. I saw someone mention a spanner wrench in a different thread which may be what I need. Is it used to hold the housing and a 36mm socket is used on the cap? There are notches spaced around the cap which a spanner may grab too.
I replied to your other post on this. I will add that it does seem fairly fragile, but never an issue like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
I just did mine today. As much as people were talking about GM making it a pain to get to, personally I think they actually made it easy to get to. It took me all of 10 minutes and that's with never having done it before. Many fuel filters are inside the fuel tanks these days. Being able to remove it in 5 minutes is a real nice thing.

On another note, my car has less than 30k miles on it, and the fuel filter that came out of it looked like it was soaked in sharpie ink.
I'm not surprised. A lot of fuel runs through there in 30-40K miles. Even very minor contamination would add up over time.
 
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