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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Suppose that's probably the best explanation. Either way, I guess fuel used is a better guage of when to replace the filter rather than miles driven? I'll plan on replacing at 1000 gallons used.
I would agree with that 100%. Miles simply aren't relevant. In theory someone could buy a brand new Cruze and just idle it, never putting any miles on it. They would eventually get through 1000 gallons of fuel but would have zero miles.
 

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I add that it is more about Quality of diesel fuel then miles driven. You can have problems in one mile with ILL swamp water biodiesel fill up. If one lives in northern ILL and buy from Murphy better plan on draining and changing fuel filter frequently plus having plenty of 911 on hand during the winter months!! And yes drain frequently until you can determine the quality of fuel you are getting from the stations you frequent. In 30 years driving diesel cars/pickups, the local high volume Truck stops and Petro have been good luck for my diesels. Today in only 11 F temp I had to add pint of 911 and pint of white PS to my F350 tank because the prior fill up at the local Murphy . This fill up was before I had the same issue with my Cruze after a fill up at the same Murphy, NEVER AGAIN since then. Their price is enticing but one gets what they for, gelling fuel!!!

SELECT WISELY AND SHOP FRUGALLY from known high volume truck stops in ILL, local small retailers seem to be selling B20 here.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Closing in on 37k miles and I believe the DIC says 2% left on the fuel filter. We'll be driving down to North Carolina next Friday, so I need to get my ass under the car and change this here soon. Perhaps next weekend.

15% oil life left, so it may behoove us to get the oil changed too, since I believe the trip, being about 1400 miles in total, will be past the typical ~7500 mile oil change interval we've seen. Has been about 6000 miles since we had it changed, and we still have about 450 miles to put on it before we leave. Guess this one will be early. Oh well, it's only $40 for the dealer to do it - cheaper than I can do it for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
COh well, it's only $40 for the dealer to do it - cheaper than I can do it for.
How can the dealer do this with the Dexos2 and filter and not lose money?
 

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How can the dealer do this with the Dexos2 and filter and not lose money?
I have no idea - but it specifically is for the Cruze Diesel. My guess has always been that it's more of a "gateway" deal to bring you in for other things.

If the dealer puts in the wrong oil, you can bet your ass I'm not letting my warranty be voided if something happens. I confirmed with them about 20,000 times that it was Dexos 2, though, before I had them do it last time. Same dealer that we've always had do our four free changes anyway.
 

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Just changed my fuel filter over the weekend. Followed the steps listed here and it was really easy. All told it took an hour and a half, but I had to make two trips out for new tools. I couldn't get the filter housing off with a pair of vice grips, and so I ran out to get a 36mm socket to take it off. Then of course, it was a 1/2" drive socket, and I only had a 3/8" ratchet. I also used jack stands instead of ramps.

I had the exact same experience in steps 9 and 10. The first few times I cycled my key I didn't hear any fuel at all, then it definitely had an airy, bubbly sound for a few. Finally started it and it started up no problem, checked underneath for leaks, then shut it off and put the belly pan back on. Once I tried to start it again a few minutes later I had to prime it a few more times. Since then it's started and run with no problems.

Next time I do this, I'll get (or make) some ramps first, and I think it will be a sub-20 minute process. I don't think there is any need to drain fuel out of the filter before hand either, just take the housing off and be prepared for the liter of fuel or so that is held in it.
 

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That's my plan - just take it out with a pan underneath. I'll let that (eventually) evaporate on its own in the garage or something.

Meant to do ours yesterday, but ran out of time. It's at 1%, but I'm not worried, considering it sat at 2% for a few weeks.

Did get the car washed (underbody spray as well) yesterday, so it should be clean enough underneath.
 

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Anyone try to make an access port to the fuel filter? This would save time dropping the entire belly cover.

I also agree at finding a station that has a high turnover of fuel and no biodiesel. Seems my UOA shows high water content and I did use some Murphy's fuel a few fill-ups. Will stick with Sheetz diesel from here on out and see how the next UOA turns out. Sheetz also posts that their diesel is 40 cetane. Anyone find a station that advertises the cetane of their diesel?
 

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It'd have to be a pretty big access port, I'd think.

Just changed the fuel filter tonight (after putting on the MSRs and Fuel Max's) - was quite happy I didn't even need to jack the car up to change it. Pretty easy!

Looks like I got about a quart of diesel drained out in total (didn't use the 18mm drain, just undid the whole housing). It's a nice shade of green - here's to hoping it evaporates pretty quickly.
 

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Anyone try to make an access port to the fuel filter? This would save time dropping the entire belly cover.
It really doesn't take that long and is super easy to remove the belly cover. It's only one side, not the whole underbelly. You'd have to cut a massive hole to make it work, and the likelihood of spilling fuel all over in the cover is high since you pretty much have to just pull the filter housing and dump to get it to stop flowing as everyone here has mentioned.
 

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here's to hoping it evaporates pretty quickly.
You're probably out of luck there. Unlike gasoline, diesel fuel is less volatile - more like oil. It'll take a long time to evaporate.
 

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You're probably out of luck there. Unlike gasoline, diesel fuel is less volatile - more like oil. It'll take a long time to evaporate.
Oh, I know - I really dont have a problem leaving it there. I'll just soak it up with some rags if it takes too long, and accidentally trip and throw them in the trash or the recycle bin, haha.
 

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It really doesn't take that long and is super easy to remove the belly cover. It's only one side, not the whole underbelly. You'd have to cut a massive hole to make it work, and the likelihood of spilling fuel all over in the cover is high since you pretty much have to just pull the filter housing and dump to get it to stop flowing as everyone here has mentioned.
Agreed. It was quite easy to remove, even with the car being on the ground.
 

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This was really helpful. I just changed my filter today and didn't take but about 40 minutes. I didn't raise the car in the air and was able to basically reach everything. I did spill some fuel, mainly because I slipped when trying to take the old filter out of the cap. Saved some money by doing it myself!
 

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I am having trouble taking the fuel filter cap with filter off the rest of the housing. The whole housing moves in the mounting bracket and when torqued it pops out instead of the cap and filter loosening. Has anyone else experienced this? I haven't seen anything about it anywhere and it makes me think they forgot something at the factory to secure the housing. It literally just rattles around up in there. I saw someone mention a spanner wrench in a different thread which may be what I need. Is it used to hold the housing and a 36mm socket is used on the cap? There are notches spaced around the cap which a spanner may grab too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
I am having trouble taking the fuel filter cap with filter off the rest of the housing. The whole housing moves in the mounting bracket and when torqued it pops out instead of the cap and filter loosening. Has anyone else experienced this? I haven't seen anything about it anywhere and it makes me think they forgot something at the factory to secure the housing. It literally just rattles around up in there. I saw someone mention a spanner wrench in a different thread which may be what I need. Is it used to hold the housing and a 36mm socket is used on the cap? There are notches spaced around the cap which a spanner may grab too.
I replied to your other post on this. I will add that it does seem fairly fragile, but never an issue like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
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