Fuel filter part number is 22937279 which was superseded by 23456595 which was superseded by 23459023. 23459023 appears to be stamped on the latest filters, but 23456595 may be the part number that the dealership needs to find it.
So, here are more or less the steps for changing your fuel filter on a 2014 Cruze Turbo Diesel. I made a couple mistakes along the way and I am sure members of the forum can help clear up a few things that I was unsure about. So here goes:
1. Reverse the car up on ramps so that the rear wheels are on the ramps. There is no need to remove a tire to gain access.
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2. Remove the 10MM nuts that hold the belly pan on (on the passenger side of the car). Best to use a deep well socket or extender. You will want to remove the plastic nuts and only loosen the metal one in the front(front of car). Loosening the metal one will allow you to pivot the pan out of the way. After you have removed all the plastic nuts, you will have to pull down firmly on the pan to get it to come loose. (Side note to those wondering about under car washing – there was a lot of salt up under the belly pan, so in order to clean the underside of your car,you will need to remove these.
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3. After the pan is pivoted out of the way, you can now use an 18MM socket to open the drain for the fuel filter. OK now, here is where I got confused. Fuel drained out of this, but it never stopped draining. So, after a while, I just loosened the whole housing, and removed it, and the fuel stopped coming out. I did not have a socket big enough for the housing, so I gently but firmly put a pair of vise grips on it,slightly at an angle so that I was able to keep rotating it until the fuel filter and cap came out.
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4. Once the fuel filter is out, you can snap it out of the housing much like the oil filter. Dump out any remaining fuel and then snap the new filter in.
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5. Replace the big blue o-ring on the filter cap. I gently pried the old one out with a flat head screwdriver.
6. Replace the tiny blue o-ring on the part that sticks the car. I used a tiny glasses screwdriver. I was a little nervous about this one because the new one seemed to fit a little loosely.
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7. Screw back in the filter cap until it is snug, then tighten a little bit more.
8. Tighten the 18MM drain plug. (This one seemed a bit fragile so I did not tighten it too much)
9. Turn the key to the on position until you hear the lift pump stop running. Do this at least 6 or 7 times. You will hear fuel gushing and bubbling.
10. Start the car and check for leaks. (Note: I ran mine fora while and then shut it off. I attempted to start it again a few minutes later, but it just cranked and stopped cranking. I cycled the key a couple more times, and it was fine after that.)
11 After satisfying yourself that everything is operating properly, reattach the belly pan, drive and enjoy!
12. Reset the fuel filter life monitor. It's under the Option tab on the DIC. Get it up on the display (the one where it says the % fuel filter life - not the one that says "Change Fuel FIlter".). To reset, push in on the outer button on the turn signal stock - it will ask you to confirm and then it should go back to 100%
You know the 18mm that you believed to be a drain plug is actually the water separator. That you open every 30k or so miles just to drain water that has accumulated. If left open to long the fuel goes with it.I will do this as soon as I get a chance to. Might not be until this weekend, as I work from dawn to dusk. But I don't think this would do a whole lot as it's a fibrous material and it does not appear to stop much liquid from gettting through. I think it's mainly for aero and sound insulation.