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Jump to post 13 for the tutorial


Hey everyone! I have had my 2017 Cruze for about a month, and am looking to "permanently" install my dash cam. It is a N2 Pro.


I purchased a Vivocation Vico-plus, as I have heard it's the best at preserving battery life whilst offering parking mode. The Vico requires 2 fuse taps: ACC, and constant/always on.


Does anyone have any experience with the best fuses to tap? The diagram is on pg. 299-300 of the 2017 owners manual.


I was thinking f33 -mobile phone wireless charger/dc ac converter for ACC. And f35 -Onstar for constant. I'm unsure if this is ACC and Constant, but they are my best respective guesses looking at the fuse diagram. F22 -trunk release might work instead of onstar for constant. Interestingly f29 does not show that it is used, but I don't have a voltage meter to check for power. I will be using add-a-fuse taps.


The legality of windows suction mounts in my state is iffy, and I plan to mount to my dash to be on the safe side. I plan to have a 1' exposed wire running from my fuse box to the mount, with cable holders to keep it pretty enough. Am I going to have enough space to tuck the Vico, cigarette plug, and 6' of cabling somewhere under the dash, by access of the removed fuse box panel? I'm hoping I wont have to start pulling other panels to find space. The car is under warranty, so keeping the install and fuse access clean is important, I don't want any raised eyebrows at the dealer.


Plan to install Sun/Mon. Will post pics.
 

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Hey everyone! I have had my 2017 Cruze for about a month, and am looking to "permanently" install my dash cam. It is a N2 Pro.


I purchased a Vivocation Vico-plus, as I have heard it's the best at preserving battery life whilst offering parking mode. The Vico requires 2 fuse taps: ACC, and constant/always on.


Does anyone have any experience with the best fuses to tap? The diagram is on pg. 299-300 of the 2017 owners manual.


I was thinking f33 -mobile phone wireless charger/dc ac converter for ACC. And f35 -Onstar for constant. I'm unsure if this is ACC and Constant, but they are my best respective guesses looking at the fuse diagram. F22 -trunk release might work instead of onstar for constant. Interestingly f29 does not show that it is used, but I don't have a voltage meter to check for power. I will be using add-a-fuse taps.


The legality of windows suction mounts in my state is iffy, and I plan to mount to my dash to be on the safe side. I plan to have a 1' exposed wire running from my fuse box to the mount, with cable holders to keep it pretty enough. Am I going to have enough space to tuck the Vico, cigarette plug, and 6' of cabling somewhere under the dash, by access of the removed fuse box panel? I'm hoping I wont have to start pulling other panels to find space. The car is under warranty, so keeping the install and fuse access clean is important, I don't want any raised eyebrows at the dealer.


Plan to install Sun/Mon. Will post pics.
I have a writeup done for my Gen1 Cruze, but it's still relevant for the Gen2 regardless. You can find it here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/137...3-dash-camera-hardwiring-power-magic-pro.html

You can freely experiment with the fuses to find which ones will work okay for you. For the ACC I went with the cigarette lighter. On the Gen1 Cruze (probably same with the Gen2) it's only powered when the key is on. For Always On power I went for the same as you suggested, the OnStar fuse. Both for me work with no problems.

As for removing panels and such to hide the wire, that won't be an issue. There's no proper reason for a dealer to deny any sort of warranty work because you've removed a panel or pulled back some internal weather stripping/rubber seals to hide a dashcam wire. In my writeup you'll see where I've run my wires.
 

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F33 dash is a good choice for ACC power if you don't have the wireless charger. F29 is same (retained accessory power) but it feeds the rear USB port.

F11 dash is for the sunroof. I would use that before I used Onstar. The OnStar circuit is lower amperage and the OnStar module is integrated into the safety and operation system of the vehicle. Unless someone is deleting OnStar I don't recommend screwing with it's circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome Aboard!:welcome:


Try Blend Mount and I was only able to find one fuse tap myself, many names and sellers, but the same Chinese fuse tap.


Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

Thank you :) will do!






I have a writeup done for my Gen1 Cruze, but it's still relevant for the Gen2 regardless. You can find it here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/137...3-dash-camera-hardwiring-power-magic-pro.html


You can freely experiment with the fuses to find which ones will work okay for you. For the ACC I went with the cigarette lighter. On the Gen1 Cruze (probably same with the Gen2) it's only powered when the key is on. For Always On power I went for the same as you suggested, the OnStar fuse. Both for me work with no problems.


As for removing panels and such to hide the wire, that won't be an issue. There's no proper reason for a dealer to deny any sort of warranty work because you've removed a panel or pulled back some internal weather stripping/rubber seals to hide a dashcam wire. In my writeup you'll see where I've run my wires.

Thanks for the reply. Great write up, I've looked over it a few times in the last week :). Glad to know no major differences for the Gen2.. However I dont see a specific fuse for the cigarette lighter. In my case, f34 is -Parking assist/Sideblind zone alert/Infotainment/USB, which I don't think I should use. Good thing this car has a bunch of potential taps :D.


F33 dash is a good choice for ACC power if you don't have the wireless charger. F29 is same (retained accessory power) but it feeds the rear USB port.


F11 dash is for the sunroof. I would use that before I used Onstar. The OnStar circuit is lower amperage and the OnStar module is integrated into the safety and operation system of the vehicle. Unless someone is deleting OnStar I don't recommend screwing with it's circuits.

I do have the wireless charger installed. Would f33 be a worse option if I have this? I will be using add-a-fuse adapters, so the original fuse + a second fuse for the vico/cam will both be connected. I figured this is the least used ACC fuse I have. I regularly plug my phone in for AA.


As for f29, it is definitely listed as blank in my manual. I do not have a rear USB port, I have a rear 3 prong US wall adapter (on the back of my center console). Any chance they would have changed the fuse connection with this change? or is f29 actually in use and they do not say?


Your warning about the Onstar fuse definitely has me ready to use f11, as long as it is constant. Do you have a link on the amperage circuits of different fuses? I didn't realize this was an issue. I'm currently in the onstar trial.. it would also suck to pull the Onstar fuse and have all the alarms go off!
 

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The retained acc. power relay feeds the F4 circuit breaker , F30,F33, F29 and F31 dash fuses.

F33 power both the wireless charging port AND the 110V AC outlet. I'd avoid it F29 is safest bet in for ACC power in dash.

For constant power, F11 only powers the sunroof. And is protected by a 20amp fuse in use.
F19 (7.5a)would also be a good choice, it only provides power to the data link connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I'm almost finished with the install. I ran out of usable light, but everything is wired and working. Tomorrow I will pretty it up, and get all the settings fine tuned, then update the first post.

In the meantime, I'd like to know if everything looks OK, before I make it a how-to of sorts.

I took the recommendation of using F19 and F29 (thanks again for the help!) for constant and ACC respectively. The manual for the Vico says to use 10a fuses and below, but their setup uses "wire-binding" wire rapping, not add-a-fuse circuits. Still, F19 and F29 are 7.5a and 5a respectively.

I followed the setup below for the add a fuse. I put the original fuse in the "red" slot, and the new fuse in the "blue" slot. I matched the amps for the fuses, so F19 is 7.5a original +7.5a constant Vico, and F29 is 5a original+5a ACC Vico. It is not my img below, pulled from a very helpful post online. I did not have a multimeter to check the correct 12v battery side, so hoping someone can double check that.

Technology Electronics Hardware programmer Electronics accessory Electronic device


The Vicopower has what appears to be inline fuses on both the ACC and constant cable wires as well. In the manual, it states that constant does have a 2amp fuse, but does not mention the ACC wire. Am I per chance putting too many fuses in this circuit? I'm not sure if I need to flip the constant fuse 180 degrees as mentioned above... the original fuse numbering was "upside down."
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The ground wire was the most difficult part of the whole install. There is only one bolt in the fuse box area. Again I do not have a multimeter to check for proper ground. Hoping someone else who has done a similar install can confirm that this is grounded properly. It is a metal on metal connection, but there is plastic right under it. When all was said and done, it looks like the ground wire is touching the plastic, but I was able to slide a small piece of paper in between it and the plastic part. I do not believe it is touching the plastic.

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At the moment it looks like this Vehicle Car Electronics Center console Multimedia



There is a service bulletin for the 2017 Cruze fuse box. Both the manual and the diagram on the fuse box panel are incorrect. https://gm.oemdtc.com/7022/16-na-27...se-block-cover-incorrect-2017-chevrolet-cruze This link has correct fuse layout. I believe it is the same as in the 2018 manual. The F29 fuse in the service bulletin does show a 5A fuse for USB Charge. However as I do not have the rear USB, and the front USB is powered by F34, is F29 actively powering anything in my car, despite being part of the relay?

Thanks again for the help so far
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I have the install and settings pretty much where I want them. Everything looks clean, if not a little busy. I ordered a multimeter, so I will double check my ground and fuses in a few days. It is probably not a big deal if the add-a-fuse circuits are in series, but I would prefer to make sure they are parallel, just in case.

I'm having problems with constant power. Everything looks good, turn the car off, open and close the driver door, lock car. It works for 10-20 minutes, after which my Vico power plus reads this: Vehicle Car


I currently have the shutoff set to 12.4v. I was hoping I would get at least a few hours with this. I do not want to set it too low, and accidentally mess with the stop/start. The Vico manual recommends using a multimeter to correctly read and set the voltage offset while the car is off. As I cant do this yet, the offset is just 0v. When the car is on, the steering wheel display and Vico both read the same voltage, somewhere between 13.5-15v.I doubt it is a problem with offset. More likely, I'm thinking the datalink fuse might not actually be constant instead operating in some RAP mode? Or my battery is idling at too low a voltage when turned off? The dash cam is supposed to auto-engage parking mode after 10mins of no activity. Could that 10 minutes be draining the voltage that much? Hoping for some pointers in the right direction here.
 

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I have the install and settings pretty much where I want them. Everything looks clean, if not a little busy. I ordered a multimeter, so I will double check my ground and fuses in a few days. It is probably not a big deal if the add-a-fuse circuits are in series, but I would prefer to make sure they are parallel, just in case.

I'm having problems with constant power. Everything looks good, turn the car off, open and close the driver door, lock car. It works for 10-20 minutes, after which my Vico power plus reads this: View attachment 269341

I currently have the shutoff set to 12.4v. I was hoping I would get at least a few hours with this. I do not want to set it too low, and accidentally mess with the stop/start. The Vico manual recommends using a multimeter to correctly read and set the voltage offset while the car is off. As I cant do this yet, the offset is just 0v. When the car is on, the steering wheel display and Vico both read the same voltage, somewhere between 13.5-15v.I doubt it is a problem with offset. More likely, I'm thinking the datalink fuse might not actually be constant instead operating in some RAP mode? Or my battery is idling at too low a voltage when turned off? The dash cam is supposed to auto-engage parking mode after 10mins of no activity. Could that 10 minutes be draining the voltage that much? Hoping for some pointers in the right direction here.
Making sure the addafuse is oriented properly is necessary to make sure it "works" properly. If you have it backwards and there's an issue, the smaller amperage fuse will blow, no mater which slot it is in.

The 7.5A F19 dash fuse is constant B+. It's powered by the 100amp fused output of position #2 at the battery power distribution block in the trunk.

The voltage present at the Fuse is potentially just dropping below your 12.4V cutoff. You'll find out when you get your meter.
I routinely see B+ drop below 12.4 when measured in the car during key off diagnostic procedures. I typically don't bother putting a power supply on it til it's around 11.8v, the difference is I'm in a repair bay with a power supply available. You'll need to take some measurements and do some experiments to determine the cutoff you feel comfortable with based on your exact situation
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Making sure the addafuse is oriented properly is necessary to make sure it "works" properly. If you have it backwards and there's an issue, the smaller amperage fuse will blow, no mater which slot it is in.

The 7.5A F19 dash fuse is constant B+. It's powered by the 100amp fused output of position #2 at the battery power distribution block in the trunk.

The voltage present at the Fuse is potentially just dropping below your 12.4V cutoff. You'll find out when you get your meter.
I routinely see B+ drop below 12.4 when measured in the car during key off diagnostic procedures. I typically don't bother putting a power supply on it til it's around 11.8v, the difference is I'm in a repair bay with a power supply available. You'll need to take some measurements and do some experiments to determine the cutoff you feel comfortable with based on your exact situation
Thanks for the reply, you were correct the battery voltage is just lower than I was expecting at idle. I set my cutoff at 11.8v and it lasted a few hours. With what you are saying about B+ normally dropping below 12.4V, does the actual battery drop below 12.4v as well? Or will a multimeter on the battery read 12.4v, but B+ might read 12v, causing a premature shutoff in the Vico?

If the full battery voltage is not making its way to F19, I would keep my cutoff point low at 11.8v to compensate, unless this is asking for problems.
 

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The voltage available to F19 with engine off is going to vary vehicle to vehicle, day to day and change over time.

Vtage dropped by the circuit is dependent on battery starting voltage, vehicle temperature and resistance in the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Cruze Gen 2 Dash Cam Install with Park Mode

OK I couldn't figure out if I could edit the OP, so hopefully if anyone needs some info on Gen II they will find it here.


I did not route wires under the dash or along the windshield. Instead this install is pretty clean, with most wires and parts stored inside the Fuse Box compartment, going directly to my cam on the dash. It's very easy to remove the whole install, Loosen one 10mm bolt to release ground, and the whole assembly comes right out.

Parts list:

  • Vantage N2 Pro Front and Cabin Dash Cam
  • VicoVation Vico-Power Plus Battery Discharge Prevention
  • 3M suction cup Dash mount
  • Mini Fuse Add-a-circuit taps
  • Extra 7.5A and 5A fuse
  • JOTO 3M Cable clips
  • 10mm screw

IMPORTANT: The fuse layout seems different for 2016.5 vs 2017+. However the 2017 does not have the updated fuse layout in the manual. And the layout on the back of the fuse panel cover is incorrect as well. There is a SB: https://gm.oemdtc.com/7022/16-na-27...se-block-cover-incorrect-2017-chevrolet-cruze. Refer to this for 2017, but it does seem to be the same layout as in the 2018's manual. That being said, if you mirror this install, make sure to confirm specifics for your car, as they could be different than mine. I take no responsibility if you mirror this install and mess up your car, although that probably wont happen.


I went with the VicoVation power monitor after learning of its numerous voltage cutoffs for parking mode. They allow setting in .2 intervals between 11.6-12.6. It also has a voltage offset setting. To prevent deep cycling, it is recommended to have a voltage offset 12.4, although it can vary. The Vicovation ran 8+ hours at 12v cutoff. This link is great info: https://dashcamtalk.com/battery-discharge-prevention/. At the moment my battery is sitting below that 12.4v cutoff. Likely from the cold and constantly running my car/camera while testing. It is also a 2yo preowned car that spent some time on the lot, so if its on the way out I will reassess. For now I will get a trickle charger. I only need Park mode at work, and can occasionally top up the battery overnight.

As far as measuring the battery voltage, when the setup was all said and done, I used a multimeter to check a few spots. The voltage is low as I had just turned my car on/off. But I was checking if the voltage representation at the Vicovation was accurately representing the voltage at the battery. It did indeed, granted i used the relay under the hood, not the actual battery in the trunk.
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View attachment 269429


I ended up tapping into F29 and F19 for Switch and Constant power respectively. These are Rear USB charger, and Datalink ODB connector. These required a 5A and 7.5A fuse, again respectively. These are not crucial fuses, and the VicoVation manual recommends fuses 10A and below.
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Next, found this useful pic online from a useful guide
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I did have this reversed in earlier pics in the thread. Fixed in the following 2 pics:
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View attachment 269435


Grounding was a b****, my wrench just barely could get to the nut. It is down towards the bottom right side. It requires a 10mm socket. You can also see in the above pic when I test voltage, that this metal bolt/plate does provide ground to complete the circuit.
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And the Vico was all set. Just had to get the wiring stored away nicely. I used zip ties and electrical tape to keep the wires together, but I did not really secure anything to the body. It is a tight fit, not enough space for things to knock around or move. (the background fuse connections in these pic are reversed. Please see above pic for correct orientation).
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With everything all tucked away, I slipped the camera power wire and Vico through the open slot on the fuse box panel. The vico fortunately fits through this slot.
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And then 3M to tidy it up
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Pretty happy with how it came out! I still need to mess with my settings a little to get it running 6+ hours while I am at work, without killing the battery. I park in a lot with large traffic volume, and I want to be able to keep an eye on my car in case I notice any new dings. The camera is easily visible, so theft is a concern. It's not a huge presence in my area, but due to volume, its possible. Currently the onstar trial will call my phone if my alarm goes off, which is cool! It would take me 30 seconds to run outside and catch them in the act. I'm thinking about subscribing for this feature.

Thank you @Ma v e n, @LiveTrash, and @Blasirl for all the help!!!

Sorry for the rotated images, they looked normal on my PC.
 

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OK I couldn't figure out if I could edit the OP, so hopefully if anyone needs some info on Gen II they will find it here.


I did not route wires under the dash or along the windshield. Instead this install is pretty clean, with most wires and parts stored inside the Fuse Box compartment, going directly to my cam on the dash. It's very easy to remove the whole install, Loosen one 10mm bolt to release ground, and the whole assembly comes right out.

Parts list:

  • Vantage N2 Pro Front and Cabin Dash Cam
  • VicoVation Vico-Power Plus Battery Discharge Prevention
  • 3M suction cup Dash mount
  • Mini Fuse Add-a-circuit taps
  • Extra 7.5A and 5A fuse
  • JOTO 3M Cable clips
  • 10mm screw

IMPORTANT: The fuse layout seems different for 2016.5 vs 2017+. However the 2017 does not have the updated fuse layout in the manual. And the layout on the back of the fuse panel cover is incorrect as well. There is a SB: https://gm.oemdtc.com/7022/16-na-27...se-block-cover-incorrect-2017-chevrolet-cruze. Refer to this for 2017, but it does seem to be the same layout as in the 2018's manual. That being said, if you mirror this install, make sure to confirm specifics for your car, as they could be different than mine. I take no responsibility if you mirror this install and mess up your car, although that probably wont happen.


I went with the VicoVation power monitor after learning of its numerous voltage cutoffs for parking mode. They allow setting in .2 intervals between 11.6-12.6. It also has a voltage offset setting. To prevent deep cycling, it is recommended to have a voltage offset 12.4, although it can vary. The Vicovation ran 8+ hours at 12v cutoff. This link is great info: https://dashcamtalk.com/battery-discharge-prevention/. At the moment my battery is sitting below that 12.4v cutoff. Likely from the cold and constantly running my car/camera while testing. It is also a 2yo preowned car that spent some time on the lot, so if its on the way out I will reassess. For now I will get a trickle charger. I only need Park mode at work, and can occasionally top up the battery overnight.

As far as measuring the battery voltage, when the setup was all said and done, I used a multimeter to check a few spots. The voltage is low as I had just turned my car on/off. But I was checking if the voltage representation at the Vicovation was accurately representing the voltage at the battery. It did indeed, granted i used the relay under the hood, not the actual battery in the trunk.



I ended up tapping into F29 and F19 for Switch and Constant power respectively. These are Rear USB charger, and Datalink ODB connector. These required a 5A and 7.5A fuse, again respectively. These are not crucial fuses, and the VicoVation manual recommends fuses 10A and below.
Next, found this useful pic online from a useful guide

I did have this reversed in earlier pics in the thread. Fixed in the following 2 pics:



Grounding was a b****, my wrench just barely could get to the nut. It is down towards the bottom right side. It requires a 10mm socket. You can also see in the above pic when I test voltage, that this metal bolt/plate does provide ground to complete the circuit.


And the Vico was all set. Just had to get the wiring stored away nicely. I used zip ties and electrical tape to keep the wires together, but I did not really secure anything to the body. It is a tight fit, not enough space for things to knock around or move. (the background fuse connections in these pic are reversed. Please see above pic for correct orientation).


With everything all tucked away, I slipped the camera power wire and Vico through the open slot on the fuse box panel. The vico fortunately fits through this slot.


And then 3M to tidy it up


Pretty happy with how it came out! I still need to mess with my settings a little to get it running 6+ hours while I am at work, without killing the battery. I park in a lot with large traffic volume, and I want to be able to keep an eye on my car in case I notice any new dings. The camera is easily visible, so theft is a concern. It's not a huge presence in my area, but due to volume, its possible. Currently the onstar trial will call my phone if my alarm goes off, which is cool! It would take me 30 seconds to run outside and catch them in the act. I'm thinking about subscribing for this feature.

Thank you @Ma v e n, @LiveTrash, and @Blasirl for all the help!!!

Sorry for the rotated images, they looked normal on my PC.
If it is OK with you I would like to change the title to "HowTo: Gen II (2017) Dash Cam w/fuse tap install" and then move it to the Gen II tutorial thread.
 
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