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Forced Auto Stop, term used for driving with the car off (like down hills, off ramps).
Don't do it! A life is not worth fuel savings.

I always turn of my car at drive troughs. Usually only 2 start UPS needed. If its a long line, I choose something else to eat.

Also, not sure if you taught your teen the 2 second rule my counting after car in front passed a mark but I think a car length would be easier to remember. Not too much more or you'll have someone jump in between which will make you slam on your breaks.
 

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I taught him both the two second rule and how to tell if you're following two closely via the brake check usage. He knows if someone jumps in front of him he needs to reset his following distance for the new car. I also taught him to watch not only the car in front of him, but also the cars next to him and behind him. If the car behind is too close he knows to back off the car in front. He's also been taught to watch as far in front as he can see - it's amazing how many times you can avoid brake usage simply by noticing that four or five cars in front has tapped their brakes.

For anyone with a teen getting started, I highly recommend having them go through a driving school that does skid pad training (MasterDrive in Denver does). The first time he started sliding on US 6 (Loveland Pass in Colorado) he not only didn't panic but he kept the car in the driving lane. If you're interested in fuel economy, don't let him drive your ECO - the turbo will get a lot of work.
 

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XtremeRevolution
Kudo's for a excellent post.

One very minor error, the computer goes into "Closed-Loop" not open.
Just to let the Non-Mech types know.

You think like me, I did the math on a 20 mile drive. Going 10 over vs the A-Hole trying to do 30 over, he gets to work maybe 2 minutes before me, sometimes we get there at the same time due to traffic, and he's blown through a lot of fuel.

Good Job
 
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
XtremeRevolution
Kudo's for a excellent post.

One very minor error, the computer goes into "Closed-Loop" not open.
Just to let the Non-Mech types know.

You think like me, I did the math on a 20 mile drive. Going 10 over vs the A-Hole trying to do 30 over, he gets to work maybe 2 minutes before me, sometimes we get there at the same time due to traffic, and he's blown through a lot of fuel.

Good Job
Thanks!

I do think I had the open loop vs closed loop thing correct though.

http://www.modularfords.com/f149/definition-closed-loop-vs-open-loop-58339/
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I am currently looking for a way to update the original post to reflect my findings with regard to tire pressure. I've learned information contrary to what I've said in the original post and I'd like to be able to provide valid and correct information. However, I cannot modify my original post, so I have contacted a moderator about it.
 

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Ive just been recommended the trifecta tune to help mpg but have not (to my knowledge) seen it on this thread as a way to increase your mileage. Any reason why not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Ive just been recommended the trifecta tune to help mpg but have not (to my knowledge) seen it on this thread as a way to increase your mileage. Any reason why not?
This article is more of a list of simple and practical ways to improve fuel economy that cause you no significant burden, hindrance, or cost. The Trifecta tune at regular price is $550 if you include the cable, $350 if you send the cable back.

The primary reason for getting a Trifecta tune is not to improve fuel economy; people get it to improve performance and fix erratic shifting with the auto transmissions.

Here are the reasons why I don't recommend the Trifecta tune with regard to the scope of this article:
A. Its an expensive. $350 minimum, $550 if you want to re-flash later
B. If GM ever finds out about it, you void your warranty
C. I haven't seen any concrete proof yet that there really is a difference.

Everyone I've spoken to who has the Trifecta tune is naturally biased, and I can understand why; it makes a large difference in performance. However, they will be more likely to praise the product (deservedly). Some people will say that they noticed a 3mpg improvement in fuel economy. The fact is that there are so many factors that can cause a 10% change in fuel economy that they aren't worth mentioning here. Simple things like an unusually windy week (such as the one I just had), will skew your results significantly. they dropped mine by at least 4mpg on this last tank of gas.

When someone does perform a controlled test to prove that the Trifecta tune does indeed improve fuel economy, I will consider adding it to an advanced techniques article, but it's out of the scope of this article due to its price and the fact that GM will void your warranty if they learn that you have it. This is not advice I can offer the general Cruze owner.
 

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That was that answer I was looking for. I have just begun researching the product and even with their ghost mode the dealer can still figure out that you have remapped your ecu. Also, as you stated, it seems to be more of a performance mod then an mpg mod. If thats what I wanted I would have kept the wrx.

Still working on my new driving methods. It is not easy to change right away. Especially when your car pool buddy recommends you "get a couple more squirrels for your cage next time"
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
That was that answer I was looking for. I have just begun researching the product and even with their ghost mode the dealer can still figure out that you have remapped your ecu. Also, as you stated, it seems to be more of a performance mod then an mpg mod. If thats what I wanted I would have kept the wrx.

Still working on my new driving methods. It is not easy to change right away. Especially when your car pool buddy recommends you "get a couple more squirrels for your cage next time"
LOL. Yeah, it takes a while to change your driving habits. In the end, its worth it. You should have your buddy calculate how much quicker you would get there if you went a few miles per faster. He'll probably sit quiet after he realizes its only a couple of minutes.

I'll probably tune my car when my warranty runs out. At that point, I won't have anything to lose, but for now, I don't need the performance and it makes more sense to me to pay the car off than spend money modding it.
 

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I'll probably tune my car when my warranty runs out. At that point, I won't have anything to lose, but for now, I don't need the performance and it makes more sense to me to pay the car off than spend money modding it.
It is a completely different car tuned (in a good way). Warranty is important, but the tune is very hard to detect and if they *do* detect it they have to prove it actually caused the problem (provided you even have a major powertrain problem). I'm getting warranty work done in a few weeks :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
It is a completely different car tuned (in a good way). Warranty is important, but the tune is very hard to detect and if they *do* detect it they have to prove it actually caused the problem (provided you even have a major powertrain problem). I'm getting warranty work done in a few weeks :).
Yeah, I've heard it is an entirely different car, lol. I've been very tempted, especially getting a bonus at work and a nice tax return within the next week. I promised myself I won't buy any expensive mods for this car (car audio excluded as I already have a lot of equipment) until its paid off though, so anything I do would have to be cheap or free.

Let me know how that warranty work goes. Chances are they won't notice anything if they're not looking for it with a magnifying glass. I just get paranoid about things like that. I had a 2005 Bonneville GXP that I owned for a little under 4 years and 41k miles. In that time, it went through ~$7,500 worth of dealer covered repairs and when I sold it, it still had two leaking power steering hoses, two leaking oil cooler lines, a defective fog light harness, and a water leak in the trunk. I milked that Nissan extended warranty for all it was worth. Just don't want to end up in a situation like this, especially since I have a case on file with GM stating that I am aware of a potential premature clutch failure with my car and that I don't want to have to fight them to get it fixed. That's probably the biggest reason; I don't want to give them any reason to doubt it was their fault.
 

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Thanks!

I do think I had the open loop vs closed loop thing correct though.

http://www.modularfords.com/f149/definition-closed-loop-vs-open-loop-58339/
OH, I see you're talking about Fords, I thought we were discussing "real cars" J/K :)

Here's a quote from your link;
"When a car is started, the computer is in open loop until certain criteria is met.
The o2 sensors need to be heated to work properly, so this is the main reason there is a delay.
After the sensors are heated up, the car goes into closed loop and the O2 sensors make their corrections."

Perhaps Foad goes into Open Loop mode at WOT, I'm pretty sure GM's stay in Closed Loop while the minimum Temp is achieved.

I've driven around with a scanner in my old Buick wagon trying to figure out a bad "purge-valve"
Once heated up, the "Closed-Loop" mode stayed engaged regardless of what I did.

Disclaimer
*Vehicles vary greatly from mfg to mfg, what Ford does may be diff from GM and inside each Mfg, they may vary how the computers operate as to "Loop" mode.

O.T. comment
My 84 Vette had a DFCO so aggressive, that the brake lights should have been activated !
The 96 Yukon's DFCO is obvious, but no where near as agressive.

My ECO's DFCO is not obvious in any way, Mine ECO has manual tranny, I cannot tell if it engages or not

Bottom Line, your link's poster indicates that Ford varies Loop mode due to conditions.
What I've read on my few GM's, they do not. I do reserve the right to be wrong :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
OH, I see you're talking about Fords, I thought we were discussing "real cars" J/K :)

Here's a quote from your link;
"When a car is started, the computer is in open loop until certain criteria is met.
The o2 sensors need to be heated to work properly, so this is the main reason there is a delay.
After the sensors are heated up, the car goes into closed loop and the O2 sensors make their corrections."

Perhaps Foad goes into Open Loop mode at WOT, I'm pretty sure GM's stay in Closed Loop while the minimum Temp is achieved.

I've driven around with a scanner in my old Buick wagon trying to figure out a bad "purge-valve"
Once heated up, the "Closed-Loop" mode stayed engaged regardless of what I did.

Disclaimer
*Vehicles vary greatly from mfg to mfg, what Ford does may be diff from GM and inside each Mfg, they may vary how the computers operate as to "Loop" mode.

O.T. comment
My 84 Vette had a DFCO so aggressive, that the brake lights should have been activated !
The 96 Yukon's DFCO is obvious, but no where near as agressive.

My ECO's DFCO is not obvious in any way, Mine ECO has manual tranny, I cannot tell if it engages or not

Bottom Line, your link's poster indicates that Ford varies Loop mode due to conditions.
What I've read on my few GM's, they do not. I do reserve the right to be wrong :)
The same conditions apply with GM cars to my knowledge. How do I know? I spent several months tuning the L67 in my 95 Regal (swapped from a 2000 Regal) with a 2003 PCM. When you go WOT, your car will go into open loop mode and will activate PE. You think your AFR at WOT is 14.7:1 and that your O2 sensor is doing anything at that time? Definitely not. Your PCM will estimate your AFR at the time you hit WOT based on your STFTs and will apply your PE settings to give you the AFR you're looking for. In my car, I was hitting a 11.5:1 AFR to keep knock down. The reason why it does this is because your car can't determine AFR at WOT with a narrowband 02 sensor.

The EVAP purge valve you're referring to isn't the same thing I'm referring to. EVAP components have different conditions I won't get into.
 

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In regards to my original question regarding letting engine warm up before using heat to increase MPG:

This question is for those of you with an additional mounted numeric graduated water temperature gauge-better than the OEM, or plug in diagnostic tool. From a cold start, for the 1.4L ECO engine, can you tell us what graduation marks on the OEM gauge does 160 Deg. F & 180 Deg. F equal(on the OEM, 4 marks is ¼ the way, 8 marks is ½ the way, etc..)?

Also, at full running temperature, my OEM gauge shows a hair width before the 7[SUP]th[/SUP] mark and stays there in any condition. What actual water temperature range is this?



Answer:

I used a scan tool & found out myself. 160 Deg. F is the fourth graduation mark (1/4 the way). 180 Deg. F is the sixth mark. Through the first seven marks, they are 10 Deg. F increments. Gauge stops moving a hair width before the seventh mark, BUT actual temperature keeps climbing. I found" normal" running temperature range to be 217-223 Deg. F. On a one mile long gradual slope up, it hit 228 Deg. F at the top, then back to "normal" on level road. Outside air temperature was 28-31 Deg. F. Anyone try this with similar readings? Too bad GM can't put some reference numbers on the gauge.
 

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I actually watched the temp readout on the DIC drop down as low as 189F during some steep climbs today during a 500 mile trip. And that was in 70F weather. But I also watched it rise a bit during climbs, and during descents. It seems that go up or downhill does not have much effect on the coolant temp. The car seems to be deciding whats best at a given moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I actually watched the temp readout on the DIC drop down as low as 189F during some steep climbs today during a 500 mile trip. And that was in 70F weather. But I also watched it rise a bit during climbs, and during descents. It seems that go up or downhill does not have much effect on the coolant temp. The car seems to be deciding whats best at a given moment.
From what I remember reading in the tech articles, that's exactly what it does. While cruising, it will raise the temps to allow for a more efficient burn, but when you need additional power, it will lower temps to prevent knock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Vinces tune also lowers the desired coolant temp down to ~205F I believe.
Isn't that counter-intuitive if you're aiming to save fuel and already using higher octane, or is that just for the performance mode of the tune?
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
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