How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install
For details and ordering information on the PCV Fix kits, go to: GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits
This thread provides instructions for installing the V1 PCV Fix Kit for the 2011-2016 Limited Chevy Cruze, as well as the Chevy Sonic/Trax and the Buick Encore. .
- A step bit that can drill down to 9/16" (Available on Amazon.com) - I got a set of 3 at Menard's for $12
- A cordless drill
- 2 adjustable wrenches
- Pipe thread sealant (teflon tape would also work)
- A file
- An Allen wrench set
- A #2 phillips screwdriver witha 6"+ shaft, or a screwdriver with interchangeable bits and an extension that can get you the same length (this will be needed to install the plug)
- A GOOD, strong degreaser that leaves no residue. Brake clean may work.
- A plastic brush (an old toothbrush will work)
- A hole punch
- A hammer
- A flathead screwdriver or comparable tool to mix and apply epoxy
- A paper towel to wipe the epoxy off the applicator tool
- In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)
- 5mm hex bit (if 3/8" drive, you'll also need a 3/8" male to 1/4" female adapter)
- PCV Fix Kit V1
This solution has been tested, proven, and is generally considered reliable. To ensure a proper install, MAKE SURE YOU READ AND UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING IN THIS POST. Neither I nor CruzeTalk.com accept any liability for what happens during or after the installation of this kit. Proceed at your own risk. This is a kit that is being offered for your convenience. It is your responsibility to ensure that the components are working correctly and remain in good operating condition to prevent any issues. It is your repsonsibility to ensure that the components are clean (such as the check valve and the brake booster tee fitting on the V2 kit) to ensure there are no potential issues down the road. No issues have been reported in vehicles with over 100,000 miles and 2 years on this kit, but it is your responsibility to ensure that the kit continues to perform correctly. For full disclaimer: click here.
Procedure:Note: if you've never worked with NPT fittings before, just remember; you can keep tightening, but you should not back out unless you're disconnecting and re-connecting (with new thread sealer). Also note: don't be afraid to use a lot of sealant tape. You should be making at least 5 laps around the threads with the tape.
1. Remove intake manifold from vehicle, and remove throttle body from manifold. Tutorial for removing the intake manifold can be found here: How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold
2. Using degreaser and a toothbrush, thoroughly clean and de-grease the original check valve openings, surrounding area, and a few inches into the bottom of the PCV port (the flat area). The original PCV opening must be free from any contaminants and must be bone dry in order for the epoxy to adhere permanently. If using a strong solvent like brake clean, I'd recommend removing the gasket surrounding the ports first. Make sure the PCV port is dry before proceeding.
3a. Below is where you will be installing the screw and washer. The idea is that if your check valve is missing that hole needs to be plugged up as it's creating a boost leak. First, drive the screw half way into the center hole for the check valve dry (without any epoxy) to start the thread, then back out.
3b. Place the washer over the screw, and liberally coat the screw thread with epoxy. The more you can pile on there, the better. Have at least as much as shown below, more if possible.
3c. Next, carefully, being sure not to touch the walls, drive the screw back into the hole all the way to the end. Once the screw starts drilling itself in, it will start to go in straight. IMPORTANT NOTE: don't over-tighten the screw. Screw it in till it hits the end, then lightly tighten until it's snug. If you over-tighten, the screw will strip the plastic. Screw it in till it hits the end, then lightly tighten until it's snug. If you over-tighten, the screw will strip the plastic. This is just to hold the washer in place, the epoxy will do the sealing and holding.
3d. At this point, the epoxy should have bonded to the screw, the washer, the surface of the port, and should have been pressed through the outer holes on the port to produce an excellent bond. However, if you want to use up the remaining epoxy on your mix surface, feel free to load it up around the screw wherever you feel like it for good measure. Once that stuff cures, it's never coming off. Note: do not block off the port coming up out of the manifold that the corrugated hose connects to!
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
4. Be sure to wipe off the screwdriver you're using after every single application. That stuff dries fast and you'll be scraping it off later. Full cure takes 24 hours but if you start with this part first, you'll be fine getting the intake manifold back together and starting the car, since it will be dry to the touch within an hour. No need to wait overnight before you start up the car.
5. Flip the intake manifold upside down and place a washer centered on the flat side. Make sure it is centered horizontally. I'd recommend starting 1/4" or so further back than I did in this picture to give yourself some flexibility in case the hole gets too close while you're drilling. Use a hole punch and hammer to make an indentation where the thread will be starting. Note: as of January 2019, I've been shipping kits out with a larger flat washer for the outside; make sure you drill the hole a tad further back than needed to ensure the washer lays flat on the runner.
6. Using a step bit, slowly and carefully drill down to 9/16", being sure to keep it centered. If you have trouble getting it centered, you can try drilling a small 1/8" pilot hole with another drill bit first. Note that the hole on mine ended up a little too close to the opening. This is why I recommended you start further back to give you some flexibility in case this happens.
7. Using a file, file down two opposing edges of one washer until it slides through the PCV port opening. Do the same for two opposing edges of the locknut. This won't take much filing.
8. Fit another un-modified washer over the NTP adapter, and fit the adapter trough the hole. Fit the nitrile gasket over the threads, followed by the washer you filed down.
9. Slide the locknut through onto the top of the thread, and begin tightening the adapter against the thread. It may help to fit the barbed elbow onto the adapter for this part to get more leverage as shown below.
10. Remove the 90 degree barbed fitting, install some thread sealer, and tighten it against the adapter using the two wrenches while also positioning the barb to point toward the throttle body. Note: if you run out of space to turn, DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE ADAPTER. The plastic on the manifold is pretty thick but it can still crack if you get crazy. You can tell if you're going too far when the rubber seal starts to press outward. Back out the adapter, remove the locknut, turn it clockwise one step, and put it back in. This will give you another 60 degrees before it gets too tight again, which should be plenty. At this point, the first washer you slid onto the adapter may start flaring upward. That's OK, its primary purpose was to distribute the force of the adapter against the plastic on the intake manifold so it doesn't crack; it is the nitrile seal on the inside that will keep this from producing any leaks.
Note: If someone else comes across a 1/4 NTP male to 1/4 NTP female adapter that has a wider top section, let me know and I can exchange that part for this one.
11. The BNR throttle body adapter came with two plugs. Install one of the plugs using your allen wrench set in the hole closer to the intake runners (see below where I forgot to put the plug in).
12. This part is pretty simple. Using thread sealant, start with the reducer elbow and tighten all of the remaining fittings in the following order. You may need some extra thread sealer on the elbow going into the intake if it's getting too close. Once the fittings are tightened, apply some thread sealer to the reducer elbow and tighten it against the throttle body spacer. Fit the spacer onto the intake manifold to make final adjustments regarding the angle. Don't over-tighten this as you may crack the throttle body spacer. It just needs to be snug; the thread sealer will do all the work. Make sure the check valve is pointing in the correct direction; it should be pointing toward the throttle body spacer. Remember, when making adjustments, you can tighten, but don't back out. Once you have it set, hold the fuel hose up to both bases of the barbed fittings, cut/trim it to the the appropriate length, and slide it through. This will not be under any significant pressure, so you don't need clamps. In fact, it's better not to have them so you can just pull the hose off if you ever want to clean/inspect the check valve. The following is what I believe to be an ideal alignment for the check valve, with a slight arc in the oil hose. Note: I used the wrong hole on the TB spacer for the first few pictures here. You actually want to use the hole closer to the PCV port so the check valve would clear.
Once you're done, here is what your finished product should look like.
13. Reinstall the throttle body on top of the throttle body spacer (the spacer must be first touching the intake manifold), and tighten using 5mm hex bit to 71 in-lb.