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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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XR,

I am in the process of installing my DDM throttle body spacer for my boost gauge and figured I might as well set it up so in the future I can more readily install this fix for the PCV valve.

As I have yet to take off my intake, I am not able to fully visualize this process, hence a couple of questions for clarification.






3a. First, drive the screw half way into the center hole for the check valve dry to start the thread, then back out.

3b. Place the washer over the screw, and liberally coat the screw thread with epoxy.



3c. Using a flathead screwdriver, liberally apply some epoxy to the check valve hole, entering from the top port.

3d. Next, carefully, being sure not to touch the walls, drive the screw back into the hole all the way to the end. Once the screw starts drilling itself in, it will start to go in straight. IMPORTANT NOTE: don't over-tighten the screw. Screw it in till it hits the end, then lightly tighten until it's snug. If you over-tighten, the screw will strip the plastic.

3e. At this point, the epoxy should have bonded to the screw, the washer, the surface of the port, and should have been pressed through the outer holes on the port to produce an excellent bond. However, if you want to use up the remaining epoxy on your mix surface, feel free to load it up around the screw wherever you feel like it for good measure. Once that stuff cures, it's never coming off. Note: do not block off the port coming up out of the manifold that the corrugated hose connects to!

Eye Close-up Organ Macro photography Photography


4. Be sure to wipe off the screwdriver you're using after every single application. That stuff dries fast and you'll be scraping it off later. Full cure takes 24 hours but if you start with this part first, you'll be fine getting the intake manifold back together and starting the car, since it will be dry to the touch within an hour. No need to wait overnight before you start up the car.
I added the circle on your pic to help me ask the question - is this the screw end and if so where is it located on the outside of the manifold?

Bad News Racing Throttle Body Spacer: This is the only leak-free, clean solution that I've come up with that is able to flow enough air while preventing any leaks. There is no other place in the intake manifold to tap into the return line reliably and easily. This component is critical to the design of this solution. I recommend this over the DDM throttle body spacer, as the DDM spacer requires an additional adapter and may require a bracket on the engine to be filed down in order to avoid rubbing.
BNR Throttle Body Spacer - LUV/LUJ 1.4T

NOTE: If you already have the DDM throttle body spacer and want to use that, you'll need this additional fitting in order to make it work (you don't need this for the BNR throttle body spacer): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...O9CJ0&linkId=8e4935b9cedf9ff2061267c7ef7a6345
I had already purchased mine prior to seeing your recommendation.

It seems as if I need to install it with the openings down to make it work with your kit, is it?

I also needed to know if it makes a difference in which hole I use for the gauge? I see you have changed positions in your photos so I am assuming the one away from the engine when pointed down.
 

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Administrator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
Joined
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13,487 Posts
EDIT-NOTHING IS HERE
I am not exactly sure what you wanted to say, but you need to type your reply after the quote tags when you quote another poster. Can you go in and edit? If not tell me so I can fix the last four posts so they make sense to us.
 
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