If the orange valve is there, break off the tip with a screwdriver and shake the other side out. It will be a little rubber disc. Then, install the V2 kit.1. I have have a new valve cover, PCV check valve line, and V2 kit ready for installation. I also have all the tools required for the "How to remove the intake Manifold" Thread and some listed in this thread. This thread lists two tools that I don't have (In-lb torque wrench and 5mm hex bit) that are required for kit installation, but I did not see any mention of use for them after reading through the process. I was just wondering if I need them before I go out and buy them and at what step will I be using them? And if I do need the 5mm hex bit, could I use a Allen wrench instead?
2. Also, my orange check valve is still there. Do I need to remove it before install or just seal over it?
3. I have been getting a burning oil smell coming through the vents only under certain conditions. 1) When the AC is on. 2) It used to only smell when the ventilation was coming from the outside but recently started smelling on interior circulation mode as well. 3) After I come to a stop. 4) When I accelerate from a stop. 5) At idle after the engine has been warmed up. Do you think after installing this kit and replacing the valve cover and PCV check valve line that it will stop the smell issue?
These cars rarely have bad rings. Not exactly an issue. Sometimes, the piston actually cracks, but you'd need a compression test to diagnose that. It could also be a turbo. It sounds more like you are running rich though and have a big boost leak. I have heard that the diaphragm missing in the intake manifold does cause this as well.Can this pvc diaphram in the intake cause the engine to bog down while trying to accelerate and then blow out blue smoke and finally speeding up? I’ve already replaced the valve cover and I have noticed this diaphram is missing, I’m asking because growing up blue smoke always meant bad rings.
I spoke with a friend of a friend who works for a Chevy dealership and he said that’s from the diaphram missing and I want to see if that true or not/ if there are bigger issues at hand.
I ignore that modification entirely and simply leave the system as it was from the factory.
Just a bit of extra epoxy I put around the screw for good measure. Just make sure not to block the path going up toward where the corrugated hose connects to.On image 4 what is the black thing around where the check valve use to be? Also what tool to use to push through to cover up where it use to be? Might’ve missed it but confused
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Thanks for clarifying this, I just put in my order today on one of your kits!Just a bit of extra epoxy I put around the screw for good measure. Just make sure not to block the path going up toward where the corrugated hose connects to.
Just a long #2 philips screwdriver. I include the screw, epoxy, and washer needed to plug up the hole.
There's nothing to support the weight of the valve. It's a solid chunk of brass, and the manifold holds it just fine, while the plastic T fitting won't. You'd have to secure it against something which means zipties or something similar, and it's pretty tight for space up there, especially once you add the 1/4 NTP to 5/16" barb fittings on both ends of the check valve. On that note, it would require two more clamps. two more barbed fittings, and more hose.HI, Any reason why a person couldn't plumb the brass ck valve into the 5/16 vacuum line, next
to the plastic "T" (supplied with your kit) , rather then underneath the intake manifold? Thanks
That was accidentally carried over from the V1 fix kit tutorial, which is needed to install the BNR throttle body spacer. You don't need it for the V2 kit. I removed it from the required tools list. Thanks for catching that.Quick question, I am getting ready to install the kit in the next few days and gathering all the tools needed while the kit arrives and after reading the installation instructions I realized that it mentions that the 5mm hex bit is needed but it does not mention what it is need for(what bolts/part)?
Did I miss something?
- 5mm hex bit (if 3/8" drive, you'll also need a 3/8" male to 1/4" female adapter)