Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

21 - 40 of 113 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
XR, think I'd be alright just using rtv? I'd like to get everything buttoned up and get her car back on the road today if possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
1. I have have a new valve cover, PCV check valve line, and V2 kit ready for installation. I also have all the tools required for the "How to remove the intake Manifold" Thread and some listed in this thread. This thread lists two tools that I don't have (In-lb torque wrench and 5mm hex bit) that are required for kit installation, but I did not see any mention of use for them after reading through the process. I was just wondering if I need them before I go out and buy them and at what step will I be using them? And if I do need the 5mm hex bit, could I use a Allen wrench instead?

2. Also, my orange check
valve is still there. Do I need to remove it before install or just seal over it?

3. I have been getting a burning oil smell coming through the vents only under certain conditions. 1) When the AC is on. 2) It used to only smell when the ventilation was coming from the outside but recently started smelling on interior circulation mode as well. 3) After I come to a stop. 4) When I accelerate from a stop. 5) At idle after the engine has been warmed up. Do you think after installing this kit and replacing the valve cover and PCV check valve line that it will stop the smell issue?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
1. I have have a new valve cover, PCV check valve line, and V2 kit ready for installation. I also have all the tools required for the "How to remove the intake Manifold" Thread and some listed in this thread. This thread lists two tools that I don't have (In-lb torque wrench and 5mm hex bit) that are required for kit installation, but I did not see any mention of use for them after reading through the process. I was just wondering if I need them before I go out and buy them and at what step will I be using them? And if I do need the 5mm hex bit, could I use a Allen wrench instead?

2. Also, my orange check
valve is still there. Do I need to remove it before install or just seal over it?

3. I have been getting a burning oil smell coming through the vents only under certain conditions. 1) When the AC is on. 2) It used to only smell when the ventilation was coming from the outside but recently started smelling on interior circulation mode as well. 3) After I come to a stop. 4) When I accelerate from a stop. 5) At idle after the engine has been warmed up. Do you think after installing this kit and replacing the valve cover and PCV check valve line that it will stop the smell issue?
If the orange valve is there, break off the tip with a screwdriver and shake the other side out. It will be a little rubber disc. Then, install the V2 kit.

If you have a burning oil smell, check for areas that may leak onto the exhaust. Could be the turbo oil feed line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Can this pvc diaphram in the intake cause the engine to bog down while trying to accelerate and then blow out blue smoke and finally speeding up? I’ve already replaced the valve cover and I have noticed this diaphram is missing, I’m asking because growing up blue smoke always meant bad rings.

I spoke with a friend of a friend who works for a Chevy dealership and he said that’s from the diaphram missing and I want to see if that true or not/ if there are bigger issues at hand.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Can this pvc diaphram in the intake cause the engine to bog down while trying to accelerate and then blow out blue smoke and finally speeding up? I’ve already replaced the valve cover and I have noticed this diaphram is missing, I’m asking because growing up blue smoke always meant bad rings.

I spoke with a friend of a friend who works for a Chevy dealership and he said that’s from the diaphram missing and I want to see if that true or not/ if there are bigger issues at hand.
These cars rarely have bad rings. Not exactly an issue. Sometimes, the piston actually cracks, but you'd need a compression test to diagnose that. It could also be a turbo. It sounds more like you are running rich though and have a big boost leak. I have heard that the diaphragm missing in the intake manifold does cause this as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I just ordered this kit today. Over 100k on my 2012 Chevy Sonic and of course, the upper O2 sensor just went out, and the PCV valve blew, and I more than likely have no more orange button on my intake manifold. They say troubles always come in 3's so I am hedging my bets by going ahead and doing this mod just to be safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Maybe @XtremeRevolution or someone else can answer this, but what do we do with the BPV hose that used to connect to the lower tank on the intake manifold? (see picture in step 12 in OP's post)

Am I mistaken that this mod blocks off airflow and pressure to that bladder?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Maybe @XtremeRevolution or someone else can answer this, but what do we do with the BPV hose that used to connect to the lower tank on the intake manifold? (see picture in step 12 in OP's post)

Am I mistaken that this mod blocks off airflow and pressure to that bladder?
I ignore that modification entirely and simply leave the system as it was from the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
On image 4 what is the black thing around where the check valve use to be? Also what tool to use to push through to cover up where it use to be? Might’ve missed it but confused


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
On image 4 what is the black thing around where the check valve use to be? Also what tool to use to push through to cover up where it use to be? Might’ve missed it but confused


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just a bit of extra epoxy I put around the screw for good measure. Just make sure not to block the path going up toward where the corrugated hose connects to.

Just a long #2 philips screwdriver. I include the screw, epoxy, and washer needed to plug up the hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Just a bit of extra epoxy I put around the screw for good measure. Just make sure not to block the path going up toward where the corrugated hose connects to.

Just a long #2 philips screwdriver. I include the screw, epoxy, and washer needed to plug up the hole.
Thanks for clarifying this, I just put in my order today on one of your kits!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
check valve location

HI, Any reason why a person couldn't plumb the brass ck valve into the 5/16 vacuum line, next
to the plastic "T" (supplied with your kit) , rather then underneath the intake manifold? Thanks
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
HI, Any reason why a person couldn't plumb the brass ck valve into the 5/16 vacuum line, next
to the plastic "T" (supplied with your kit) , rather then underneath the intake manifold? Thanks
There's nothing to support the weight of the valve. It's a solid chunk of brass, and the manifold holds it just fine, while the plastic T fitting won't. You'd have to secure it against something which means zipties or something similar, and it's pretty tight for space up there, especially once you add the 1/4 NTP to 5/16" barb fittings on both ends of the check valve. On that note, it would require two more clamps. two more barbed fittings, and more hose.

If you can make it work, by all means go for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Ok, thanks for the input. I know what
U mean about the weight of the
Brass valve, only plastic to support
It. I was thinking the same thing.
BTW, I got the intake manifold
Off now, getting ready for the V2
Install, sure is a lot of sludge in the
PVC port of intake manifold.
Only 58000 miles on the car now,
Makes one think the oil was not
Changed often enough, or would this b a sign of other problems .
Originally showed the P299
Code, did boost leak test, PVC
Valve bad. We bought the Cruze
With 48000 on it. Thanks in
Advance for the help
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Installed the V2 kit this weekend, all went pretty smoothly. By far the hardest part for me is just disconnecting and reconnecting all the various connections to get the intake manifold out. I bought a new valve cover and PCV valve pipe kit. I was not able to replace the small tube that runs along side this. For the life of me I could not get the tube off at the front of the engine. The hose clamp tangs were pointing down, and there was no way I could get pliers on it to squeeze the clamp open, I tried hard. I tried to just twist the rubber boot off with the clamp in place, but it wouldn't budge, so I just left it. How do people get that clamp off, is there some special tool? Or maybe you are lucky that the tangs are pointing up where you can get pliers on it?

Other than that, the most difficult thing was disconnecting the large hose mount from the back of the manifold. I could not get that barb to release, I ended up just ripping it out when I reached the limit of my patience. It's a pretty low threshold.

One other thing, the connector to the Coil Assembly. It has a weird connector on the right hand side. There is some orange/red plastic tab that prevents squeezing the tab that releases the connector. I could not figure out how to get that orange plastic piece out of there, I Mangled it up, broke the ears off of it, tried everything I could think of short of hitting it with a hammer and breaking it in pieces (as I wanted to do). still could not get it out. I don't understand how it comes apart. I saw your instructions, but it would not slide forward. Not required, I left it plugged in and just laid it off to the side, but would have preferred to unplug it.

Chevy has a lot of fragile, brittle plastic parts, have to be careful to not break something else while you're in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Quick question, I am getting ready to install the kit in the next few days and gathering all the tools needed while the kit arrives and after reading the installation instructions I realized that it mentions that the 5mm hex bit is needed but it does not mention what it is need for(what bolts/part)?

Did I miss something?

Tools Required


- 5mm hex bit (if 3/8" drive, you'll also need a 3/8" male to 1/4" female adapter)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,685 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Quick question, I am getting ready to install the kit in the next few days and gathering all the tools needed while the kit arrives and after reading the installation instructions I realized that it mentions that the 5mm hex bit is needed but it does not mention what it is need for(what bolts/part)?

Did I miss something?

Tools Required


- 5mm hex bit (if 3/8" drive, you'll also need a 3/8" male to 1/4" female adapter)
That was accidentally carried over from the V1 fix kit tutorial, which is needed to install the BNR throttle body spacer. You don't need it for the V2 kit. I removed it from the required tools list. Thanks for catching that.
 
21 - 40 of 113 Posts
Top