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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How-To: Install Clutch Accumulator Bypass Mod


Overview:
The clutch on the 2011-2016 Limited Cruze uses two components to soften shifts and protect the drivetrain from beginners. First is the CDV (clutch delay valve, technically a restrictor), which limits clutch fluid flow. This is done to limit the speed of clutch engagement if you slip your foot off the clutch. The second is the clutch accumulator, which is added eliminate the spongy feel of a restrictor-style CDV and simulate a normal clutch feel. The accumulator absorbs excess clutch pressure that cannot flow through the CDV.

Removing the CDV improves clutch pedal feel, but rapid clutch pressure during fast shifting still gets absorbed by the accumulator, which delays clutch release from the flywheel, which results in shift stiffness and shift grinding, especially for the 1-2 shift. This modification was developed in conjunction with Titan Synthetics and bypasses the accumulator.

The end result is improved, linear clutch pedal feel and vastly improved shift smoothness during rapid shifting. This mod greatly alleviates the 1-2 shift grind by addressing the root cause.

Note: you first need to remove the clutch delay valve before installing this mod. Instructions here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129...185322-how-remove-clutch-delay-valve-cdv.html

More information on the Gen1 Cruze Clutch and Shifting Upgrades: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-gen1-powertrain/236181-gen1-cruze-clutch-shifting-upgrades.html

Many thanks to M. Barton for these photos.

Tools Required:
- Ratchet & socket set
- Pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Vacuum bleeder, like this one for $20 on Amazon.com

Parts Required:
- Clutch Accumulator Bypass Mod from BNR: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited Clutch Accumulator Bypass
- DOT 3/4 brake fluid

Procedure:
1. Remove the clip holding the coolant reservoir, and slide the reservoir forward, then up. Move the reservoir out of the way, while leaving it still connected to the hoses.


2. Back by the firewall, you'll see the accumulator. Using a flathead screwdriver, pry the retaining clip up until it clicks into its open position. Do not fully remove it, as that is not necessary.


3. Remove the following retaining clip if you need to for easier access.


4. Slide the accumulator rearward until you can rotate it, then rotate it upward so the cap is facing up as shown below.


5. Place the accumulator cap removal tool and remove it using the appropriate socket.



6. Remove the cap once unscrewed completely. Inside the accumulator is a metal disc, shown below the left. You will need to remove that as well.


7. The cap has a plastic cap in the center with a spring behind it. Using the pliers, remove both the plastic cap and the spring.


8. Fit the accumulator bypass disc into the cap as shown below, and reinstall into the accumulator.


9. Rotate the accumulator again until it can be pushed back in. There's a notch, so it will only go back in once aligned. When you have it back in, push the clip back in its original position.

10. Reinstall the wiring retaining clip, the coolant reservoir, and the coolant reservoir clip.

11. Bleed the clutch line using a vacuum bleeder.
 

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Can the clutch be bleed by pumping it out using the clutch pedal itself? Or do you need a vaccum bleeder?
 

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Clutch pedals are a P I T A to bleed. They're not easy to bleed like brake pedals.

A vacuum pump (bleeder) will get the job done much better and faster. Pump. Create vacuum. Open bleeder valve. And suck that fluid through.

One could also use it to bleed brakes. Or flush.
 

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Can't the same thing be accomplished by just removing the spring, drilling a small hole in the center of the OE plate, reinstall, and bleed? What size is the hex in the accumulator cap?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Can't the same thing be accomplished by just removing the spring, drilling a small hole in the center of the OE plate, reinstall, and bleed? What size is the hex in the accumulator cap?
No. The o-ring around the cap itself is not designed to hold that kind of pressure. You need to retain the OEM seal without the OEM plate flexibility.

The accumulator cap doesn't have a hex size, because it's not hexagonal. It's octagonal. That's why the kit from BNR includes a tool to get the old one out.
 

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No. The o-ring around the cap itself is not designed to hold that kind of pressure. You need to retain the OEM seal without the OEM plate flexibility.

The accumulator cap doesn't have a hex size, because it's not hexagonal. It's octagonal. That's why the kit from BNR includes a tool to get the old one out.
Any idea what size the octagon is? I see now that the hole I saw is a burr. I'm sure I could just make a bushing to replace the spring to keep the piston from moving. It doesn't look like there is anything to seal the piston other than the fit, so I'd think the lid sees full line pressure. Do you have any pictures of the housing?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any idea what size the octagon is? I see now that the hole I saw is a burr. I'm sure I could just make a bushing to replace the spring to keep the piston from moving. It doesn't look like there is anything to seal the piston other than the fit, so I'd think the lid sees full line pressure. Do you have any pictures of the housing?
There's a seal on the outside of the body that seals the plate against the body, held down by the cap itself. You do NOT want to allow fluid into the cap itself for a number of reasons. The cap's seal simply won't hold the pressure.

I don't know the size of the octagon. It was a royal Pita to get it off. Also, there's a plateau in the middle which further complicates removal.

Replacing the spring with a solid piece will still allow some flex in the plate around the center. Remember we're talking about high pressure hydraulics here.

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk
 

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Quick question. Im "trying" to install this and its a pita. Not much room to work with. lol I released the clip and have tried sliding the valve back and rotate it with no success. I dont want to apply to much pressure to it. Plus, theres a hard line on the front of it. How does it rotate with this line there? :icon_scratch:
 

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I just installed this tonight. What a pain in the butt this was. Don't be like me and drop the aluminum removal key on top of the frame rail, lol. I highly recommend getting a set of mechanics fingers from Harbor Freight before in case you do drop it.

Bleeding the clutch was also a HUGE pain. What helped tremendously was our mityvac extractor that runs off the air compressor. I would not recommend doing this job without the vacuum as noted in the instructions. Having a helper to push the clutch up and down also helps. There is a lot of air to get through the system after this job.

It took me about 3 hours of messing around to do the job.

Overall, the upgrade is a must have in my opinion. The clutch feels so much more direct now. It seemed much more willing to go into 2nd gear when I jumped on it during my test drive. Too bad GM put in this crap to begin with ?.
 
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Has anyone ever done this mod ? If so can you give me some feedback please.
 
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