Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

How-To: Install Clutch Accumulator Bypass Mod

25K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  PAChevyCruze 
#1 · (Edited)
How-To: Install Clutch Accumulator Bypass Mod


Overview:
The clutch on the 2011-2016 Limited Cruze uses two components to soften shifts and protect the drivetrain from beginners. First is the CDV (clutch delay valve, technically a restrictor), which limits clutch fluid flow. This is done to limit the speed of clutch engagement if you slip your foot off the clutch. The second is the clutch accumulator, which is added eliminate the spongy feel of a restrictor-style CDV and simulate a normal clutch feel. The accumulator absorbs excess clutch pressure that cannot flow through the CDV.

Removing the CDV improves clutch pedal feel, but rapid clutch pressure during fast shifting still gets absorbed by the accumulator, which delays clutch release from the flywheel, which results in shift stiffness and shift grinding, especially for the 1-2 shift. This modification was developed in conjunction with Titan Synthetics and bypasses the accumulator.

The end result is improved, linear clutch pedal feel and vastly improved shift smoothness during rapid shifting. This mod greatly alleviates the 1-2 shift grind by addressing the root cause.

Note: you first need to remove the clutch delay valve before installing this mod. Instructions here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129...185322-how-remove-clutch-delay-valve-cdv.html

More information on the Gen1 Cruze Clutch and Shifting Upgrades: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-gen1-powertrain/236181-gen1-cruze-clutch-shifting-upgrades.html

Many thanks to M. Barton for these photos.

Tools Required:
- Ratchet & socket set
- Pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Vacuum bleeder, like this one for $20 on Amazon.com

Parts Required:
- Clutch Accumulator Bypass Mod from BNR: 2011-2016 Cruze Limited Clutch Accumulator Bypass
- DOT 3/4 brake fluid

Procedure:
1. Remove the clip holding the coolant reservoir, and slide the reservoir forward, then up. Move the reservoir out of the way, while leaving it still connected to the hoses.


2. Back by the firewall, you'll see the accumulator. Using a flathead screwdriver, pry the retaining clip up until it clicks into its open position. Do not fully remove it, as that is not necessary.


3. Remove the following retaining clip if you need to for easier access.


4. Slide the accumulator rearward until you can rotate it, then rotate it upward so the cap is facing up as shown below.


5. Place the accumulator cap removal tool and remove it using the appropriate socket.



6. Remove the cap once unscrewed completely. Inside the accumulator is a metal disc, shown below the left. You will need to remove that as well.


7. The cap has a plastic cap in the center with a spring behind it. Using the pliers, remove both the plastic cap and the spring.


8. Fit the accumulator bypass disc into the cap as shown below, and reinstall into the accumulator.


9. Rotate the accumulator again until it can be pushed back in. There's a notch, so it will only go back in once aligned. When you have it back in, push the clip back in its original position.

10. Reinstall the wiring retaining clip, the coolant reservoir, and the coolant reservoir clip.

11. Bleed the clutch line using a vacuum bleeder.
 

Attachments

See less See more
18
#7 ·
No. The o-ring around the cap itself is not designed to hold that kind of pressure. You need to retain the OEM seal without the OEM plate flexibility.

The accumulator cap doesn't have a hex size, because it's not hexagonal. It's octagonal. That's why the kit from BNR includes a tool to get the old one out.
 
#10 ·
Quick question. Im "trying" to install this and its a pita. Not much room to work with. lol I released the clip and have tried sliding the valve back and rotate it with no success. I dont want to apply to much pressure to it. Plus, theres a hard line on the front of it. How does it rotate with this line there? :icon_scratch:
 
#11 ·
I just installed this tonight. What a pain in the butt this was. Don't be like me and drop the aluminum removal key on top of the frame rail, lol. I highly recommend getting a set of mechanics fingers from Harbor Freight before in case you do drop it.

Bleeding the clutch was also a HUGE pain. What helped tremendously was our mityvac extractor that runs off the air compressor. I would not recommend doing this job without the vacuum as noted in the instructions. Having a helper to push the clutch up and down also helps. There is a lot of air to get through the system after this job.

It took me about 3 hours of messing around to do the job.

Overall, the upgrade is a must have in my opinion. The clutch feels so much more direct now. It seemed much more willing to go into 2nd gear when I jumped on it during my test drive. Too bad GM put in this crap to begin with ?.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PAChevyCruze
#15 ·
Sooo I’m right there with Jsjr56. Install went pretty smooth but there is brake fluid spilling out of that little retaining clip every time I depress the clutch pedal. Did I accidentally break something? Accumulator is in the notch, although I noticed that even with the pin down, you can still pull it out of the notch (just not back in) oddly enough. Any insight before I give up and go to the dealer?
 
#19 ·
Just a little update- after quite a few days of bleeding and frustration, it came to be that there was a small o-ring missing from the master cylinder. Must have popped off somehow when attempting the mod. For those that do it in the future, that may come up as an issue.

Also, don’t be a dingus like me and drop the tool. Getting it out of the frame rail was an absolute pain. Definitely use a vacuum bleeder!

Did this mod with a new transmission and stage 2 clutch. I was having quite a lot of odd wheel hop before this mod, but everything is quite smooth and engages well with it on. Absolutely recommend!
 
#20 ·
The accumulator obviously has a line in and a line out, wouldn't it be easier than fighting with the dohicky to just link the lines together with a fitting?
 
  • Like
Reactions: rickconner1981
#21 ·
Quick question. Im "trying" to install this and its a pita. Not much room to work with. lol I released the clip and have tried sliding the valve back and rotate it with no success. I dont want to apply to much pressure to it. Plus, theres a hard line on the front of it. How does it rotate with this line there? :icon_scratch:
Quick question. Im "trying" to install this and its a pita. Not much room to work with. lol I released the clip and have tried sliding the valve back and rotate it with no success. I dont want to apply to much pressure to it. Plus, theres a hard line on the front of it. How does it rotate with this line there? :icon_scratch:
What is a "pita"....?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top