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So, I decided that I wanted to get a boost gauge in my 2012 Eco 6M, but instead of hacking into the vacuum lines, I decided to go with a more professional looking install and ordered up one of the DDMWorks Throttle Body Spacers. This spacer has two tapped holes in it, so I can use one for a boost gauge hookup and one for meth/N20 later down the road if I want.

The installation itself is pretty strait forward, but I've put together a step/step guide to help others along. Skill level needed on this is about a 5 on a scale of 1-10. Here is what you'll need:

Long and Short Flathead Screwdriver
5mm Hex Socket
5mm Hex Wrench
3/8 SAE 12 point socket in 3/8's drive
Short 3/8 extensions with 3/8 drive ratchet
3/8 12 point closed end wrench (if you have the ratcheting swivel head type that is best, but I did it with just a standard one)
Some sort of angle grinder or bench grinder (optional - only if you want to keep your engine lift bracket)
Metal File (optional)
Sharpie Marker (optional)
Black Spray Paint (optional)
Needlenose pliers
A friend to be helping hands (not needed, but was sure alot easier with an extra set!)

Here are the step by steps:

1. Disconnect the plugs on the charge pipe sensor and the drive-by-wire throttle body. As always, take your time and don't break them!

IMG_5102.jpg

2. Loosen the charge pipe hose clamp at the throttle body and pull it off. This took me a little time as mine didn't want to come off very easy (the TB is ribbed and so it takes some friction to remove it). Use caution here, as pulling on it hard could damage the intake manifold (since it's plastic). I wiggled it back and forth for about 30 seconds while gently pulling back and it wiggled off. There is no need to loosen anything else - it has enough play to come off. Once it's off, push it to the right and out of the way. (seen in next picture)

3. Using a combination of the 5MM Hex wrench and socket, remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake (I had to use the wrench on the two closest to the engine - the socket fit no problems on the other two).

IMG_5104.jpg

4. Once you remove the throttle body, you need to remove the engine hoist bracket that's bolted to the head, as it will not clear the new TB position by default. It's a star head bolt, but if you're like me and don't have any of those, the 3/8's 12 point socket fits it perfectly.

IMG_5108.jpg

5. While the TB is still out, you need to make sure the hose clamp tabs on the coolant line that runs under the TB is positioned to the right. Mine was right on top, and when I put the TB back on, it was so close that I couldn't get the charge pipe back on. This is how it should look when adjusted correctly (TB installed for reference):

IMG_5112.jpg

6. Now (hopefully with that fiends help), position the throttle body spacer between throttle body and intake, and using the longer bolts provided, install all four bolts but leave them a little bit loose.

IMG_5111.jpg

7. Slowly tighten down all of the bolts, making sure the throttle body spacer and throttle body stay lined up correctly with the intake manifold (there was about a 1/8 of play in mine, so it's good to keep it strait). Once it's tight, check the fitment and confirm that it looks strait and even and leak free :).

IMG_5120.jpg

8. This step is optional - the engine hoist bracket won't clear the new TB position after the spacer is installed. So you can either leave it out (bleh!), or you can grind it a bit to allow it to be re-installed and maintain the factory look (yay!) I put the bracket back in by hand and then used a sharpie to mark the bracket. I then ground off a bit of metal and test fit it a few times. Once it fit again, I used the file to take off all the burs, and then spray painted it black so that the ground off section wouldn't rust. Once that was dry, I re-installed it and then tightened the bolt down. There is very little clearance to get this bolt back in with the TB installed, so I had to use the closed end 3/8 12 point wrench to slowly tighten it back down. Check clearance on the TB again and confirm it's good.

IMG_5115.jpg IMG_5116.jpg IMG_5118.jpg IMG_5121.jpg

9. Now, all that's left is to re-connect the charge pipe and tighten down it's hose clamp, and re-install the electrical connectors for the charge pipe sensor and the drive-by-wire throttle body. Once you have done this, it's time to start the car and make sure it doesn't leak. **Of note, I didn't realize that the cooling fan came on automatically if your hood is open and the car is running, so mine came on and I thought something was wrong, but this is normal. Assuming the car starts and idles around 1500 until it warms up and then drops to around 800-900, then you're done. If you notice any surging or if the idle is higher or never comes down, you may have an air leak and should check fitment again.

And that's it! I plugged my vacuum barb and took the car out for a test drive to make sure all was well. It drove fine with no noticeable difference in performance or driveability.

** AS ALWAYS, if you don't feel comfortable doing this sort of work do your car, I'd recommend you take it to a certified mechanic for install. Follow this installation guide AT YOUR OWN RISK, and while hopefully you don't break your car, don't come to me if you do ;)

Thanks!
 

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I have the trifecta tune and a K&n cai will this throttle body make any difference?and on the ddm works website it has options that I don't need cause I'm not going to hook anything up to it ,how would I order it?
 

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Hey the tb came with a gasket and the one on the car has one do I use both or just one? I tried installing with one but when I started the car it sounded like crap and wouldn't idle and the bolts were tight as ****.do you have any suggestions?
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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These are the tools I used on my 2014 LT 1.4:

Tools used to remove and install throttle body-compressed.jpg

I only used the impact to remove the bolts. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet to tighten them. I could not find the torque spec's so I just did my normal hand tightening.
Almost all of those tools are from Harbor freight.
 
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