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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Go back to COMG- The Cruze Owner's Maintenance Guide


I just got done installing GM fog lights on my '12 Eco and figured I would share how to do it without removing the front bumper. There are a couple other how-to's on this site that show how to do it by removing the bumper. For me that just wasn't an option, and IMHO is overkill. I am going to apologize for the bad picture quality up front. All I had was a cell phone to take pictures with.

Parts 1 through 7 are mainly concerning how to install it without removing the bumper. The remainder of them are generic to any fog light install.

You will need;
- T20 torex (for the front splash shield).
- Wire cutters/fork/something with a small edge to take the plastic inserts off.
- Philip screw driver.
- Small ratcheting wrench + 10mm + 1/4in sockets + 3in extension.
- Car ramps or a lift. I used wood ramps.
- Fog light kit (of course).
- Small hands is a plus.

Before starting make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal, and the car is safely secured on the ramps or lift. I am not taking any responsibility for anything that happens to you or your car (or anything else) from following this.

1. Remove the front splash shield under the radiator.

There are a bunch of T20 screws that hold the front of the shield on highlighted in blue. These are easy to take off. There are 2 in the center that do not need to come off but I took them all off anywho.

The line in red are the plastic inserts. I used a flat head screw driver to get them started, then a wire cutters to get on both sides and pulled. They pop off pretty easily.

The green colored lines will need to come off also, but I did those later when I was installing the fog lights.

Lastly, the yellow arrow is the direction to pull to remove it. It should be self explanatory once you are doing this yourself. Basically just pull down and to the back of the car.



2. Remove passenger side non-fog light insert.

Once the shield is off I started with the passenger side first because it looked easier (and was). Removing the original non-fog light inserts was kind of tricky, but once you get a look at it things make sense. There is one screw holding it to the bumper. The 3" extension helped with getting more swing on the wrench.



3. Install the passenger side fog light.

This is pretty straight forward. Re-insert new fog light cover the way the non-fog light one came out. Once the insert is in place the actual fog light can be fitted. The fog light will slide right up there no problem. Once in there you can tighten down the two screws that go on the same side, or towards the center of the car, to hold it there while you get the third on the far outside. I used a wrench with a 1/4" socket and philips bit.

This step is where the small wrench comes in handy with an extension. The outside screw is in a place that is hard to reach, but it is doable (more doable than the driver side). This is also where I removed the screws/plastic inserts on the green line from the first picture. That allowed me to pull the extra plastic flat down (which is also part of the wheel well plastic) so I could get more of my arm behind the fog light.

Here it is installed.



4. Remove the driver side non-fog light insert.

It will come off the exact same way as the passenger side. For the temperature sensor I used a 10mm deep socket and pushed/gyrated it around the front side of the panel to pop the temperature sensor free.

5. Insert the driver side fog light.

The front panel and temperature sensor are another straight forward install, especially if you did the passenger side already.

The trouble comes from trying to screw in the outside far screw to secure the fog light to the bumper. This is where small hands is useful, and you will have to remove the screws/inserts in green from the first picture for this side. You just won't have enough arm room to get at the screw otherwise. I can't really explain how I got my hand up far enough, let alone with a ratchet, so I took a picture. Once all 3 screws are in you are finished installing the fog lights, and then on to the harness :)



6. Install the harness.

The harness is routed around the front of the car, next to the rest of the wiring that goes to the passenger side. There is a hole on the passenger side that the wire goes and drops down to the fog light.



The driver side has to go behind the headlight and the fuse end splits to the fuse box.



I attached the ground to one of the 3 posts that are to the inside of the driver side headlight. Then go back to the fog lights and plug them in.

7. Reinstall the splash shield

You should be done underneath the car now. Reinstall the shield the way it came off.

8. Install the switch.

Easiest part of the whole thing. Pop the fuse panel cover off below the switch and push from behind. Replace with the new switch. Sorry, no picture :)

9. Install harness to the fuse block.

Take the fuse cover off. The fuse you want is #48, 15A. There are three large stainless screws holding the whole thing down. Once they are loose you can wiggle the top portion off by unsnapping it from the 6 tabs on both sides. The fuse block top then wiggles off and you should see a bunch of holes where the fuse tabs would slide in to. There is only one end of fuse 48 present, and by comparing to the backside of the top you can figure out where it is suppose to go. The harness plug can be stubborn to get in the fuse block. I used a pointed needle nose pliers to make sure it was in all the way. Once finished, reverse the process to reinstall the fuse block. Again, sorry, no picture.

10. Do one last sanity check, connect the battery terminal you took off, and test them out :)

Hope this helped!

 

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That's how I installed mine about a year ago and it WAS a piece of cake! The only problem area was tightening the top right passenger side fog light screw as there is very little room in that corner but I resolved that problem by using a 90 degree offset ratcheting screwdriver. Good write-up though for those who are interested!
 

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Nice! I was going to try and find a way in there this week so you just saved me some time and hassle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
where did you buy the lights. GM or OEM.
I bought them from the dealer so they are OEM, and the correct style for the Eco. Ended up being $175 for everything.

That is true about the philips screws, it also helps when it comes off cause you don't have to rotate the wrench 180 degrees just to get it aligned again.
 

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I got mine installed today. Realistically it took me like 3 hours. Includes neighbor wanting to chit chat for 15-20, and scouring my tool areas for small screw drivers for those top screws. Pretty painless, I appreciate the how to, it was good to reference.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX.
 

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Update for this. I did mine today. As for the electrical center, unclip it from the base. Loosen all 3 10mm bolts. While holding the electrical center up, tap on all 3 bolts and loosen them up some more. Repeat this untill the 3 bolts are no longer holding the connectors to the electrical center. If you look at the connector, it has a gray retainer at one end. Pull this retainer out but don't pull really hard on the connector until you have it back in. you don't need to push it in with needle nose pliers. When your putting it back together, the 3 connectors snap down in the base. No need to try to align them or push them back into the electrical center. Just set the electrical center back in place and snap it down to the base. Tighten the 3 bolts. I warn you that it will seem like they aren't tightening, but they will.
I had an hour into it.
 

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Sibby,
thanks for the terrific write up.
My lights arrived today (could so have used them on the way home).
So tomorrows project is to install them. Have my camera charged up so I can get a few pictures of how the wiring goes in the fuse block.
will let you know.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sibby,
thanks for the terrific write up.
My lights arrived today (could so have used them on the way home).
So tomorrows project is to install them. Have my camera charged up so I can get a few pictures of how the wiring goes in the fuse block.
will let you know.
Bob
If you get some good pictures I could add them to the end of the how-to. Never hurts to have more pictures :)
 

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Got my lights installed, sadly I will have to get the BCM reprogrammed. I guess the 2013 LT did not come with the fogs programmed in. We will see how supportive the dealer wants to be.A few points to help others.
1) install the outer covers last. Leaves room for your fingers to reach in from the front.
2) Pop the side marker lights out, a long extension with a U joint makes it easier to get to the outer most screws.
3) The connection point on the fuse block is one back from the very end. (#31).

First thing I would check BEFORE installing the lights: see if the fog light indicator shows up on the instrument cluster when you start the car. It is on the right hand side on the speedometer. If it lights (during the light check) your fogs are programmed into the BCM, if it never lights, you will have to have your BCM flashed for them to work.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-electronics/1590-eco-cruze-fog-light-install-warning-lots-pics.html

This is an excellent post with good pics of the electrical connections.

Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great information and support

Bob
 

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Pics to show some of the things to deal with when doing the fog lights.

2012 Cruze 003.jpg
The red arrows show the 6 clips you need to release to pull the top of the electrical center out. It also shows the 3 bolts that retain the connectors to the electrical center.

2012 Cruze 004.jpg
Another view of one of the clips.

2012 Cruze 006.jpg
The battery side of the electrical center.

2012 Cruze 007.jpg
Tab that holds the connectors in the base of the electrical center. This is what I mentioned previously. Lock them into the base and you don't have to fool with getting them aligned to get the top back on.

2012 Cruze 011.jpg
Shot of the connector locked in place in the base.

2012 Cruze 008.jpg
Arrow shows an example of the terminal retainer that help hold the wiring in the connector.

2012 Cruze 010.jpg
Here is the actual retainer that you remove to make adding the wire easier.

2012 Cruze 009.jpg
This is was happens when you tired and in a hurry. See the red arrow, that is the wrong location. It should be in the cavity above the purple/gray wire.


Now they work great!!!
 

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Just got back from the dealer. They wanted to charge me$120 to program in the fog lights.
After some hagling (car is less than 3 weeks old) ended up costing me $60.
I still think it should have been free.
They do make the car look better in my humble opinion.

Bob
 

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I had no problem putting the fog lights in either. Drove to the Chevy Dealer, bought all the parts and a new headlight light switch. The mechanic had the new lights in the ECO in about 2 hours. I Had them install the cheesy mud flaps too. chevy eco fog lights.jpg
 

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The GM mud flaps for the Cruze actually do a good job protecting the sides of the car.
 

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How much are the dealer OEM fog lights? Anyone have a good place to buy them online for a better price than the local dealer?
 
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