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How-To: Install Fog Lights WITHOUT Removing Front Bumper

92089 Views 69 Replies 36 Participants Last post by  Drbraddd
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I just got done installing GM fog lights on my '12 Eco and figured I would share how to do it without removing the front bumper. There are a couple other how-to's on this site that show how to do it by removing the bumper. For me that just wasn't an option, and IMHO is overkill. I am going to apologize for the bad picture quality up front. All I had was a cell phone to take pictures with.

Parts 1 through 7 are mainly concerning how to install it without removing the bumper. The remainder of them are generic to any fog light install.

You will need;
- T20 torex (for the front splash shield).
- Wire cutters/fork/something with a small edge to take the plastic inserts off.
- Philip screw driver.
- Small ratcheting wrench + 10mm + 1/4in sockets + 3in extension.
- Car ramps or a lift. I used wood ramps.
- Fog light kit (of course).
- Small hands is a plus.

Before starting make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal, and the car is safely secured on the ramps or lift. I am not taking any responsibility for anything that happens to you or your car (or anything else) from following this.

1. Remove the front splash shield under the radiator.

There are a bunch of T20 screws that hold the front of the shield on highlighted in blue. These are easy to take off. There are 2 in the center that do not need to come off but I took them all off anywho.

The line in red are the plastic inserts. I used a flat head screw driver to get them started, then a wire cutters to get on both sides and pulled. They pop off pretty easily.

The green colored lines will need to come off also, but I did those later when I was installing the fog lights.

Lastly, the yellow arrow is the direction to pull to remove it. It should be self explanatory once you are doing this yourself. Basically just pull down and to the back of the car.



2. Remove passenger side non-fog light insert.

Once the shield is off I started with the passenger side first because it looked easier (and was). Removing the original non-fog light inserts was kind of tricky, but once you get a look at it things make sense. There is one screw holding it to the bumper. The 3" extension helped with getting more swing on the wrench.



3. Install the passenger side fog light.

This is pretty straight forward. Re-insert new fog light cover the way the non-fog light one came out. Once the insert is in place the actual fog light can be fitted. The fog light will slide right up there no problem. Once in there you can tighten down the two screws that go on the same side, or towards the center of the car, to hold it there while you get the third on the far outside. I used a wrench with a 1/4" socket and philips bit.

This step is where the small wrench comes in handy with an extension. The outside screw is in a place that is hard to reach, but it is doable (more doable than the driver side). This is also where I removed the screws/plastic inserts on the green line from the first picture. That allowed me to pull the extra plastic flat down (which is also part of the wheel well plastic) so I could get more of my arm behind the fog light.

Here it is installed.



4. Remove the driver side non-fog light insert.

It will come off the exact same way as the passenger side. For the temperature sensor I used a 10mm deep socket and pushed/gyrated it around the front side of the panel to pop the temperature sensor free.

5. Insert the driver side fog light.

The front panel and temperature sensor are another straight forward install, especially if you did the passenger side already.

The trouble comes from trying to screw in the outside far screw to secure the fog light to the bumper. This is where small hands is useful, and you will have to remove the screws/inserts in green from the first picture for this side. You just won't have enough arm room to get at the screw otherwise. I can't really explain how I got my hand up far enough, let alone with a ratchet, so I took a picture. Once all 3 screws are in you are finished installing the fog lights, and then on to the harness :)



6. Install the harness.

The harness is routed around the front of the car, next to the rest of the wiring that goes to the passenger side. There is a hole on the passenger side that the wire goes and drops down to the fog light.



The driver side has to go behind the headlight and the fuse end splits to the fuse box.



I attached the ground to one of the 3 posts that are to the inside of the driver side headlight. Then go back to the fog lights and plug them in.

7. Reinstall the splash shield

You should be done underneath the car now. Reinstall the shield the way it came off.

8. Install the switch.

Easiest part of the whole thing. Pop the fuse panel cover off below the switch and push from behind. Replace with the new switch. Sorry, no picture :)

9. Install harness to the fuse block.

Take the fuse cover off. The fuse you want is #48, 15A. There are three large stainless screws holding the whole thing down. Once they are loose you can wiggle the top portion off by unsnapping it from the 6 tabs on both sides. The fuse block top then wiggles off and you should see a bunch of holes where the fuse tabs would slide in to. There is only one end of fuse 48 present, and by comparing to the backside of the top you can figure out where it is suppose to go. The harness plug can be stubborn to get in the fuse block. I used a pointed needle nose pliers to make sure it was in all the way. Once finished, reverse the process to reinstall the fuse block. Again, sorry, no picture.

10. Do one last sanity check, connect the battery terminal you took off, and test them out :)

Hope this helped!

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GM fog lamp kit is part number 95903470, do like OE stuff, includes the bezels, lamps, harness, and the correct switch. Best web price I could find is $164.99 for this kit. Gather the list price is $235.00, anyone find a better price?

I plan on checking with my dealer, but have to do that eye to eye. Found these posts useful for learning how much of the vehicle is prewired for fogs. Thank you for posting these.

While I feel fog lamps are next to worthless with the kind of fog we get in Wisconsin, they are very useful as a backup lighting system. And becoming necessary as head lamp systems are no longer simple fast acting circuit breaker types. With DRL, multifunction switches, one time blow out fuses, point contact relays, reliability is a newly created problem. If fog lamps will save my life, worth the investment. I am a strong believer in backup systems.
 

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Read that one review in amazon about this guy that added fogs to his Cruze, Not only paid over 200 bucks from amazon, but had to pay his dealer another 110 bucks to have his car reprogrammed. Would have been just as cheap if he paid his dealer to install these lights.

Got a bug for installing fogs on my Cruze, did open the light switch, only thing missing is a contact pad and that for icon. So would have to get a new switch anyway, best way is to get the OE kit. Checking on ebay, cheapest price for that OE kit was 105 bucks, current cheapest price now is $170.00. Dealer won't budge on a $220.00 price.

And speaking about bugs, spent a good deal last Sunday cleaning off bugs from the front of my Cruze, Those black panels are the easiest, but looking at the fogs, looks like would be a PITA to clean those with those deep crevasses. Maybe I don't even want fogs.

Have those on my 88 Supra, not bad to clean, a nice flush surface, but rarely use them anyway. But wished I didn't have them when a stone broke the glass. To get a new housing from my Toyota dealer, darn near had to get a second mortgage on my home to pay for them.

Understand the 2012's do not have to be reprogrammed, but still mystified as to where that fog lamp relay is located. I know it has to have one, have relays for everything else in this car. Electrically heated seat relays are hidden behind the dash someplace. Can hear those click.

Suppose I could take apart my light switch apart again, and short out those grids, to learn if I can hear a click.
 

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Was lucky enough to win a geniune GM part #95903470 fog lamp kit on an auction on ebay for $130.00, the package just came in.

First step was to open and make sure everything was in the box and all genuine GM, it is, even the 8 phillip head screws are in a sealed package. But may substitute those of 1/4" hex heads with the same thread size to make installation easier. Fog lamps are adjustable height wise that was key to me for getting genuine GM. Did test both on my power supply, at 14.5V both pulled 3.1 amps. Bulbs are Phillips.

Next step was to pop out the original headlamp switch, that took about two seconds, plugged in the new fog lamp addition switch, compared favorably to the switch that came with the car. Tested to make sure the head lamps operated normally, they did. But when I depressed the fog lamp button, nothing happened. Had to turn on the ignition switch first.

The fog lamp did ignite on the speedometer, then off again with the second push. The fog lamps do operate when the dims are on, but do not operate with the brights on, there is a law on this by the way. Dash lamp dimmer also worked, and the switch does light up with the ignition on. Satisfied with the operation of the new head lamp switch in both appearance and function when to the next step on my list.

I popped off the fuse cover under the load and located fuse #48, pulled that 15 amp fuse and plugged in a small spade lug the same size as the fuse terminal. Connecting a 2 amp test lamp to that point, rear terminal work, other to that very short distance to the negative terminal of the battery. Test lamp was hanging down over the side so could see it from the drivers' seat. Repeated that same head lamp test, that test lamp followed exactly the fog lamp indicated on the speedometer. So I now know for sure, everything will work.

Next step is to mount the fog lamps in the front bumper and install the harness. I know for sure my 2012 2LT is programmed for fog lamps. In the dead quiet of my closed insulated gauge, could not hear any relay clicking, so must be using a power MOSFET transistor controlled by the BCM for fog lamp switching.

Also wasted a lot of time learning how to read and write, instructions are just pictures.

Last instruction is to go to:

https://sporef.gm.com/weblogic/sporef/verifyGPLDaccess?appParm=tis2web

To download the fog lamp program, site works, but seem to be lacking a GMID and an acceptable password. Did have that at one time when I was doing work for GM. As I recall, that password had to be changed every month, so that didn't last very long. Was a wealth of information on these sites.
 

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Ha, why post this when you receive a set of instructions when purchasing the OE kit.

First bit is on removing the lower dash panel to remove that light switch. When all you have to do is to unsnap that fuse panel and pop out that switch. Cable is long enough, unsnap that red lock, squeeze the connector with your finger tips and pull it out. Plug in the new switch, push in that red lock and plug the switch back in. Learned in kindergarten never to pull a plug by the cord, same deal here.

This operation is covered by the first two pages of instructions.

Tools shown is a very large portable screwdriver, must have a half of dozen of those laying around, would be my last choice in dealing with tight spaces. Guess that is why they tell you to remove the bumper. Do have a right angle 1/4" drive impact wrench with a phillips bit that is only 1 1/2" thick that I can adjust the torque for, for tight spaces. Bit is even magnetized for holding those #6-5/8" screws. Forget about the gloves, I have to be able to feel what I am doing.

What's wrong with using fingernails to pull out those snap rivets? Great post on not having to remove the bumper, a waste of time.

Harness instructions are completely backwards, when installing electrical, always start at the load end. That way you can check the power leads for any shorts or opens before connecting them. Connecting that 12V lead should be the very last step, not the first. Took me all of about 5 minutes to verify the fogs will work with that test lamp.

What is really missing in these instructions is how to align the fog lamps, can play that by ear. Only live a half a block from a flat dead end paved road to eyeball that. But strictly a night time job if I can overcome my fear of the dark, LOL.

Head lamps on my new Cruze came badly misaligned, right side beam was much lower than the left one. Do that by eye since I have been driving for over 60 years now. Do have a headlight aimer, but kind of became obsolete when they quit using round sealed beams. Another method is at my local airport, that 25 foot deal by measuring the height and wide of your lamps and being perfectly perpendicular. But that doesn't work either with these newer diffused head lamps. Only time that works if you can go there on a foggy night.

Had to bring another person with me or a piece of cardboard and some masking tape to block the other head lamp. It's ironic that you can replace a human being with a piece of cardboard. Reminded me of my first job holding coats in a restaurant. Was replaced by a coat hanger. That is when I realized I had to do a lot more with my life, being replaced by a coat hanger was very humiliating.
 

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Page on aiming the fog lamps seems to be missing, so guess I will follow SAE recommendations. Start off with all that stuff about tires properly inflated, gas tank half full, normal passenger load, kind of ignore that. Gas tank is near the center, not an 80 gallon tank at the rear bumper. My 204 pounds only drops the side less than an eighth of an inch, and sure don't want to adjust the fogs with a flat tire.

Instructions state to measure center of the fogs to ground. On my Cruze that is 13.25", then to mark that on a wall 25 feet on a level surface, then to adjust the center of the light beam 4" below that line. They say nothing about a horizontal adjustment, I guess that is because there isn't any. Strictly vertical is all you get.

I took one of fog lamps to my lab, lights off, powered it up and held it to a blank wall 25' away, saw a clear horizontal bar about a foot high. If centered on a mark, the bottom edge of that bar would be 6" below plus that extra 4" lower adjustment or 10" below that mark, or 3.25 inches above the ground.

Figure if I just take an empty carton to a flat level space, put that carton 25' in front of each fog and adjust the lower edge of that beam 3.25" above the surface, will be dead on. SAE says nothing about doing this when its dark, but I assume that is the time to do this. See what happens. Plan on installing my lamps this morning, see what happens.

Are these lamps preadjusted? Did any of you have to aim them? Guess I will find out.
 

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Ran into some complications, the harness was apparently not for my car. that fuse box lead was way too close to the LF fog lamp plug. So I had to untape the harness, move that wire to the corner, and even lengthened it to reach the relay box. It still looks OEM.

The instruction for that relay box to plug in the terminal at the right spot was not even close to my box. So I removed that, knew fuse 48 was the source and with an ohmmeter found the correct pin on that huge plugged connector. Fog lamps work.

With out my 1/4 drive impact wrench and a very short phillips socket, think I would have been dead meat for reaching those tight spaces with my oversized hands. Had the torque adjusted correctly worked like a charm. Oh, and its a lot easier to snap in those new bezels than unsnap the old ones.

Out of the box, the aiming was only about 1" low, close enough, just left it. If it wasn't for that harness and locating the correct pin hole, would have been an easy job. Those are the kind of push in connector pins, once they are in, will never get them out.

Oh the fog lamp relay even though unidentified is in that relay box, can here it click, but couldn't identify which one. Would need an assistant to push on the fog lamp switch.
 

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Reason why I jumpered out the terminals on my light switch and used a test lamp to verify if it works before ordering an OE kit. Read those that didn't, had a to lay out an extra hundred bucks to have their firmware reflashed. At this rate, might as well just have the dealer install them.

And why can't we even order these fogs factory installed? This is really BS, only thing missing is a couple of cheap plastic housings, a simple two wire harness, and the contact block from the light switch. Not even ten bucks worth, then to pay high overhead costs at your dealers to undo all this stuff. But at least by doing it yourself, you know its done right. In the past with my super busy schedule, had dealer installed stuff and made a mess out of my car. Then in the 2013 models, made this even more difficult by changing the firmware. Only word I can have for this, the dirty basterds.

And then with the poor lighting on this car, you really need them. Especially when make tight corners in city blocks, can't even see if there are people crossing the streets. Wife questioned why I was doing this, ordered them without her permission, but now she can't live without them.

Also a backup system for these crazy way over complex DRL's using cheap made in China point contact relays. No problems found here yet, but in professional boards with slightly older vehicles, a major problem with the multifunction dimmer switch and point contact relays.

Beside this, not even a real headlamp switch anyway, fires commands, if that firmware gets messed up in that flashram, would be dead anyway. Vehicle manufacturers use to be very concerned on this issue making the headlamp circuits as simple an independent as possible, but this is history.

As a so-called electronic expert, even I had problems finding that pin 31, but double checked it with continuity to the fuse.
Then it was covered with flashing that had to be cleaned out first, and only one shot with that single pin to get it right.

Did get lazy in trying to find where the fog lamp relay is, would have to take that relay module all apart and trace it out. Under the cover of that relay box is the component identification. 17 relays are shown, four are not used, leaving 13 that is what I have. Each one is identified with functions, but not one for the fog lamps. Could be one of the cooling fans relays with an error, shows four of these, seems way too many for just a single fan.

Don't mean to rant, in a b!tchy mood this morning, dropped my wife off at work driving into the sunrise with literally thousands of pits in my windshield that weren't there even a month or so ago. What's next?
 
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