Joined
·
113 Posts
I bought mine from the ebay link below.These are MUCH cheaper than buying them from the local dealer and the seller is a Chevy dealer so it is all OEM parts.
Fog Lamp Kit for Chevrolet Cruze | eBay
How-To: Install Fog Lights WITHOUT Removing Front Bumper
21 - 40 of 70 Posts
Fog Lamp Kit for Chevrolet Cruze | eBay
Joined
·
278 Posts
Those are the exact ones I bought. Be warned though that the factory ones on my car said made in USA where those ebay ones say made in Korea, although they look and function the same. Not a deal breaker, but something I urked at.
Joined
·
2 Posts
good write up my fogs are being delivered this weekend:th_coolio:
Joined
·
55 Posts
Yup, same place I bought mine.
Joined
·
324 Posts
After this install, does the fog lamp indicator light in the guage cluster work?
Joined
·
1,002 Posts
GM fog lamp kit is part number 95903470, do like OE stuff, includes the bezels, lamps, harness, and the correct switch. Best web price I could find is $164.99 for this kit. Gather the list price is $235.00, anyone find a better price?
I plan on checking with my dealer, but have to do that eye to eye. Found these posts useful for learning how much of the vehicle is prewired for fogs. Thank you for posting these.
While I feel fog lamps are next to worthless with the kind of fog we get in Wisconsin, they are very useful as a backup lighting system. And becoming necessary as head lamp systems are no longer simple fast acting circuit breaker types. With DRL, multifunction switches, one time blow out fuses, point contact relays, reliability is a newly created problem. If fog lamps will save my life, worth the investment. I am a strong believer in backup systems.
I plan on checking with my dealer, but have to do that eye to eye. Found these posts useful for learning how much of the vehicle is prewired for fogs. Thank you for posting these.
While I feel fog lamps are next to worthless with the kind of fog we get in Wisconsin, they are very useful as a backup lighting system. And becoming necessary as head lamp systems are no longer simple fast acting circuit breaker types. With DRL, multifunction switches, one time blow out fuses, point contact relays, reliability is a newly created problem. If fog lamps will save my life, worth the investment. I am a strong believer in backup systems.
Joined
·
88 Posts
Has anyone installed the fog lights in a 2013 and not had to go to the dealer to have the computer reprogrammed? I know the 2012s don't need it but I don't know about 2013's.
Joined
·
739 Posts
I will be checking my wiring in a few more days on my 2013. I will let you know what I find out. I have to re-go over the fuse's cause I could have sworn the posts that I read said fuse 48 was for the fog lights, but when I opened my fuse box, 48 already had a fuse in it and my Cruze did not come with fog lights. Will let you know what I discover though
Joined
·
739 Posts
So after checking my 2013 Cruze out it is per-wired up to the fuse but the relay system is controlled through the DCI computer and does have to be reprogrammed on the 2013. Due to how I'm setting up my vehicle I purchased a new OEM switch for $22.00 and when the fog light button is pushed, the fog light display on the cluster comes on but no power at the fuse. The local dealership also confirmed that the 2013 has to be reprogrammed. I will just be tapping into the out power of the new OEM harness with the fog button and run that to a relay that will power my lights.
Joined
·
195 Posts
Look at the post DIRECTLY above yours.
Saw that right after I posted, I edited it already.. Thanks...
Joined
·
195 Posts
You can wire them directly to your DRL's. I wired mine directly to the side markers so they are on while the lights are on but not the DRL's. If you do it this way there is no extra fog button or flash to do.
Read that one review in amazon about this guy that added fogs to his Cruze, Not only paid over 200 bucks from amazon, but had to pay his dealer another 110 bucks to have his car reprogrammed. Would have been just as cheap if he paid his dealer to install these lights.
Got a bug for installing fogs on my Cruze, did open the light switch, only thing missing is a contact pad and that for icon. So would have to get a new switch anyway, best way is to get the OE kit. Checking on ebay, cheapest price for that OE kit was 105 bucks, current cheapest price now is $170.00. Dealer won't budge on a $220.00 price.
And speaking about bugs, spent a good deal last Sunday cleaning off bugs from the front of my Cruze, Those black panels are the easiest, but looking at the fogs, looks like would be a PITA to clean those with those deep crevasses. Maybe I don't even want fogs.
Have those on my 88 Supra, not bad to clean, a nice flush surface, but rarely use them anyway. But wished I didn't have them when a stone broke the glass. To get a new housing from my Toyota dealer, darn near had to get a second mortgage on my home to pay for them.
Understand the 2012's do not have to be reprogrammed, but still mystified as to where that fog lamp relay is located. I know it has to have one, have relays for everything else in this car. Electrically heated seat relays are hidden behind the dash someplace. Can hear those click.
Suppose I could take apart my light switch apart again, and short out those grids, to learn if I can hear a click.
Got a bug for installing fogs on my Cruze, did open the light switch, only thing missing is a contact pad and that for icon. So would have to get a new switch anyway, best way is to get the OE kit. Checking on ebay, cheapest price for that OE kit was 105 bucks, current cheapest price now is $170.00. Dealer won't budge on a $220.00 price.
And speaking about bugs, spent a good deal last Sunday cleaning off bugs from the front of my Cruze, Those black panels are the easiest, but looking at the fogs, looks like would be a PITA to clean those with those deep crevasses. Maybe I don't even want fogs.
Have those on my 88 Supra, not bad to clean, a nice flush surface, but rarely use them anyway. But wished I didn't have them when a stone broke the glass. To get a new housing from my Toyota dealer, darn near had to get a second mortgage on my home to pay for them.
Understand the 2012's do not have to be reprogrammed, but still mystified as to where that fog lamp relay is located. I know it has to have one, have relays for everything else in this car. Electrically heated seat relays are hidden behind the dash someplace. Can hear those click.
Suppose I could take apart my light switch apart again, and short out those grids, to learn if I can hear a click.
Joined
·
438 Posts
Your guess is as good as mine as far as the relay location.
I really wish a schematic for the US version of the 2013's would surface soon.
I really wish a schematic for the US version of the 2013's would surface soon.
Was lucky enough to win a geniune GM part #95903470 fog lamp kit on an auction on ebay for $130.00, the package just came in.
First step was to open and make sure everything was in the box and all genuine GM, it is, even the 8 phillip head screws are in a sealed package. But may substitute those of 1/4" hex heads with the same thread size to make installation easier. Fog lamps are adjustable height wise that was key to me for getting genuine GM. Did test both on my power supply, at 14.5V both pulled 3.1 amps. Bulbs are Phillips.
Next step was to pop out the original headlamp switch, that took about two seconds, plugged in the new fog lamp addition switch, compared favorably to the switch that came with the car. Tested to make sure the head lamps operated normally, they did. But when I depressed the fog lamp button, nothing happened. Had to turn on the ignition switch first.
The fog lamp did ignite on the speedometer, then off again with the second push. The fog lamps do operate when the dims are on, but do not operate with the brights on, there is a law on this by the way. Dash lamp dimmer also worked, and the switch does light up with the ignition on. Satisfied with the operation of the new head lamp switch in both appearance and function when to the next step on my list.
I popped off the fuse cover under the load and located fuse #48, pulled that 15 amp fuse and plugged in a small spade lug the same size as the fuse terminal. Connecting a 2 amp test lamp to that point, rear terminal work, other to that very short distance to the negative terminal of the battery. Test lamp was hanging down over the side so could see it from the drivers' seat. Repeated that same head lamp test, that test lamp followed exactly the fog lamp indicated on the speedometer. So I now know for sure, everything will work.
Next step is to mount the fog lamps in the front bumper and install the harness. I know for sure my 2012 2LT is programmed for fog lamps. In the dead quiet of my closed insulated gauge, could not hear any relay clicking, so must be using a power MOSFET transistor controlled by the BCM for fog lamp switching.
Also wasted a lot of time learning how to read and write, instructions are just pictures.
Last instruction is to go to:
https://sporef.gm.com/weblogic/sporef/verifyGPLDaccess?appParm=tis2web
To download the fog lamp program, site works, but seem to be lacking a GMID and an acceptable password. Did have that at one time when I was doing work for GM. As I recall, that password had to be changed every month, so that didn't last very long. Was a wealth of information on these sites.
First step was to open and make sure everything was in the box and all genuine GM, it is, even the 8 phillip head screws are in a sealed package. But may substitute those of 1/4" hex heads with the same thread size to make installation easier. Fog lamps are adjustable height wise that was key to me for getting genuine GM. Did test both on my power supply, at 14.5V both pulled 3.1 amps. Bulbs are Phillips.
Next step was to pop out the original headlamp switch, that took about two seconds, plugged in the new fog lamp addition switch, compared favorably to the switch that came with the car. Tested to make sure the head lamps operated normally, they did. But when I depressed the fog lamp button, nothing happened. Had to turn on the ignition switch first.
The fog lamp did ignite on the speedometer, then off again with the second push. The fog lamps do operate when the dims are on, but do not operate with the brights on, there is a law on this by the way. Dash lamp dimmer also worked, and the switch does light up with the ignition on. Satisfied with the operation of the new head lamp switch in both appearance and function when to the next step on my list.
I popped off the fuse cover under the load and located fuse #48, pulled that 15 amp fuse and plugged in a small spade lug the same size as the fuse terminal. Connecting a 2 amp test lamp to that point, rear terminal work, other to that very short distance to the negative terminal of the battery. Test lamp was hanging down over the side so could see it from the drivers' seat. Repeated that same head lamp test, that test lamp followed exactly the fog lamp indicated on the speedometer. So I now know for sure, everything will work.
Next step is to mount the fog lamps in the front bumper and install the harness. I know for sure my 2012 2LT is programmed for fog lamps. In the dead quiet of my closed insulated gauge, could not hear any relay clicking, so must be using a power MOSFET transistor controlled by the BCM for fog lamp switching.
Also wasted a lot of time learning how to read and write, instructions are just pictures.
Last instruction is to go to:
https://sporef.gm.com/weblogic/sporef/verifyGPLDaccess?appParm=tis2web
To download the fog lamp program, site works, but seem to be lacking a GMID and an acceptable password. Did have that at one time when I was doing work for GM. As I recall, that password had to be changed every month, so that didn't last very long. Was a wealth of information on these sites.
Ha, why post this when you receive a set of instructions when purchasing the OE kit.
First bit is on removing the lower dash panel to remove that light switch. When all you have to do is to unsnap that fuse panel and pop out that switch. Cable is long enough, unsnap that red lock, squeeze the connector with your finger tips and pull it out. Plug in the new switch, push in that red lock and plug the switch back in. Learned in kindergarten never to pull a plug by the cord, same deal here.
This operation is covered by the first two pages of instructions.
Tools shown is a very large portable screwdriver, must have a half of dozen of those laying around, would be my last choice in dealing with tight spaces. Guess that is why they tell you to remove the bumper. Do have a right angle 1/4" drive impact wrench with a phillips bit that is only 1 1/2" thick that I can adjust the torque for, for tight spaces. Bit is even magnetized for holding those #6-5/8" screws. Forget about the gloves, I have to be able to feel what I am doing.
What's wrong with using fingernails to pull out those snap rivets? Great post on not having to remove the bumper, a waste of time.
Harness instructions are completely backwards, when installing electrical, always start at the load end. That way you can check the power leads for any shorts or opens before connecting them. Connecting that 12V lead should be the very last step, not the first. Took me all of about 5 minutes to verify the fogs will work with that test lamp.
What is really missing in these instructions is how to align the fog lamps, can play that by ear. Only live a half a block from a flat dead end paved road to eyeball that. But strictly a night time job if I can overcome my fear of the dark, LOL.
Head lamps on my new Cruze came badly misaligned, right side beam was much lower than the left one. Do that by eye since I have been driving for over 60 years now. Do have a headlight aimer, but kind of became obsolete when they quit using round sealed beams. Another method is at my local airport, that 25 foot deal by measuring the height and wide of your lamps and being perfectly perpendicular. But that doesn't work either with these newer diffused head lamps. Only time that works if you can go there on a foggy night.
Had to bring another person with me or a piece of cardboard and some masking tape to block the other head lamp. It's ironic that you can replace a human being with a piece of cardboard. Reminded me of my first job holding coats in a restaurant. Was replaced by a coat hanger. That is when I realized I had to do a lot more with my life, being replaced by a coat hanger was very humiliating.
First bit is on removing the lower dash panel to remove that light switch. When all you have to do is to unsnap that fuse panel and pop out that switch. Cable is long enough, unsnap that red lock, squeeze the connector with your finger tips and pull it out. Plug in the new switch, push in that red lock and plug the switch back in. Learned in kindergarten never to pull a plug by the cord, same deal here.
This operation is covered by the first two pages of instructions.
Tools shown is a very large portable screwdriver, must have a half of dozen of those laying around, would be my last choice in dealing with tight spaces. Guess that is why they tell you to remove the bumper. Do have a right angle 1/4" drive impact wrench with a phillips bit that is only 1 1/2" thick that I can adjust the torque for, for tight spaces. Bit is even magnetized for holding those #6-5/8" screws. Forget about the gloves, I have to be able to feel what I am doing.
What's wrong with using fingernails to pull out those snap rivets? Great post on not having to remove the bumper, a waste of time.
Harness instructions are completely backwards, when installing electrical, always start at the load end. That way you can check the power leads for any shorts or opens before connecting them. Connecting that 12V lead should be the very last step, not the first. Took me all of about 5 minutes to verify the fogs will work with that test lamp.
What is really missing in these instructions is how to align the fog lamps, can play that by ear. Only live a half a block from a flat dead end paved road to eyeball that. But strictly a night time job if I can overcome my fear of the dark, LOL.
Head lamps on my new Cruze came badly misaligned, right side beam was much lower than the left one. Do that by eye since I have been driving for over 60 years now. Do have a headlight aimer, but kind of became obsolete when they quit using round sealed beams. Another method is at my local airport, that 25 foot deal by measuring the height and wide of your lamps and being perfectly perpendicular. But that doesn't work either with these newer diffused head lamps. Only time that works if you can go there on a foggy night.
Had to bring another person with me or a piece of cardboard and some masking tape to block the other head lamp. It's ironic that you can replace a human being with a piece of cardboard. Reminded me of my first job holding coats in a restaurant. Was replaced by a coat hanger. That is when I realized I had to do a lot more with my life, being replaced by a coat hanger was very humiliating.
21 - 40 of 70 Posts
