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How-To: Install Fog Lights WITHOUT Removing Front Bumper

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I just got done installing GM fog lights on my '12 Eco and figured I would share how to do it without removing the front bumper. There are a couple other how-to's on this site that show how to do it by removing the bumper. For me that just wasn't an option, and IMHO is overkill. I am going to apologize for the bad picture quality up front. All I had was a cell phone to take pictures with.

Parts 1 through 7 are mainly concerning how to install it without removing the bumper. The remainder of them are generic to any fog light install.

You will need;
- T20 torex (for the front splash shield).
- Wire cutters/fork/something with a small edge to take the plastic inserts off.
- Philip screw driver.
- Small ratcheting wrench + 10mm + 1/4in sockets + 3in extension.
- Car ramps or a lift. I used wood ramps.
- Fog light kit (of course).
- Small hands is a plus.

Before starting make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal, and the car is safely secured on the ramps or lift. I am not taking any responsibility for anything that happens to you or your car (or anything else) from following this.

1. Remove the front splash shield under the radiator.

There are a bunch of T20 screws that hold the front of the shield on highlighted in blue. These are easy to take off. There are 2 in the center that do not need to come off but I took them all off anywho.

The line in red are the plastic inserts. I used a flat head screw driver to get them started, then a wire cutters to get on both sides and pulled. They pop off pretty easily.

The green colored lines will need to come off also, but I did those later when I was installing the fog lights.

Lastly, the yellow arrow is the direction to pull to remove it. It should be self explanatory once you are doing this yourself. Basically just pull down and to the back of the car.



2. Remove passenger side non-fog light insert.

Once the shield is off I started with the passenger side first because it looked easier (and was). Removing the original non-fog light inserts was kind of tricky, but once you get a look at it things make sense. There is one screw holding it to the bumper. The 3" extension helped with getting more swing on the wrench.



3. Install the passenger side fog light.

This is pretty straight forward. Re-insert new fog light cover the way the non-fog light one came out. Once the insert is in place the actual fog light can be fitted. The fog light will slide right up there no problem. Once in there you can tighten down the two screws that go on the same side, or towards the center of the car, to hold it there while you get the third on the far outside. I used a wrench with a 1/4" socket and philips bit.

This step is where the small wrench comes in handy with an extension. The outside screw is in a place that is hard to reach, but it is doable (more doable than the driver side). This is also where I removed the screws/plastic inserts on the green line from the first picture. That allowed me to pull the extra plastic flat down (which is also part of the wheel well plastic) so I could get more of my arm behind the fog light.

Here it is installed.



4. Remove the driver side non-fog light insert.

It will come off the exact same way as the passenger side. For the temperature sensor I used a 10mm deep socket and pushed/gyrated it around the front side of the panel to pop the temperature sensor free.

5. Insert the driver side fog light.

The front panel and temperature sensor are another straight forward install, especially if you did the passenger side already.

The trouble comes from trying to screw in the outside far screw to secure the fog light to the bumper. This is where small hands is useful, and you will have to remove the screws/inserts in green from the first picture for this side. You just won't have enough arm room to get at the screw otherwise. I can't really explain how I got my hand up far enough, let alone with a ratchet, so I took a picture. Once all 3 screws are in you are finished installing the fog lights, and then on to the harness :)



6. Install the harness.

The harness is routed around the front of the car, next to the rest of the wiring that goes to the passenger side. There is a hole on the passenger side that the wire goes and drops down to the fog light.



The driver side has to go behind the headlight and the fuse end splits to the fuse box.



I attached the ground to one of the 3 posts that are to the inside of the driver side headlight. Then go back to the fog lights and plug them in.

7. Reinstall the splash shield

You should be done underneath the car now. Reinstall the shield the way it came off.

8. Install the switch.

Easiest part of the whole thing. Pop the fuse panel cover off below the switch and push from behind. Replace with the new switch. Sorry, no picture :)

9. Install harness to the fuse block.

Take the fuse cover off. The fuse you want is #48, 15A. There are three large stainless screws holding the whole thing down. Once they are loose you can wiggle the top portion off by unsnapping it from the 6 tabs on both sides. The fuse block top then wiggles off and you should see a bunch of holes where the fuse tabs would slide in to. There is only one end of fuse 48 present, and by comparing to the backside of the top you can figure out where it is suppose to go. The harness plug can be stubborn to get in the fuse block. I used a pointed needle nose pliers to make sure it was in all the way. Once finished, reverse the process to reinstall the fuse block. Again, sorry, no picture.

10. Do one last sanity check, connect the battery terminal you took off, and test them out :)

Hope this helped!

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Page on aiming the fog lamps seems to be missing, so guess I will follow SAE recommendations. Start off with all that stuff about tires properly inflated, gas tank half full, normal passenger load, kind of ignore that. Gas tank is near the center, not an 80 gallon tank at the rear bumper. My 204 pounds only drops the side less than an eighth of an inch, and sure don't want to adjust the fogs with a flat tire.

Instructions state to measure center of the fogs to ground. On my Cruze that is 13.25", then to mark that on a wall 25 feet on a level surface, then to adjust the center of the light beam 4" below that line. They say nothing about a horizontal adjustment, I guess that is because there isn't any. Strictly vertical is all you get.

I took one of fog lamps to my lab, lights off, powered it up and held it to a blank wall 25' away, saw a clear horizontal bar about a foot high. If centered on a mark, the bottom edge of that bar would be 6" below plus that extra 4" lower adjustment or 10" below that mark, or 3.25 inches above the ground.

Figure if I just take an empty carton to a flat level space, put that carton 25' in front of each fog and adjust the lower edge of that beam 3.25" above the surface, will be dead on. SAE says nothing about doing this when its dark, but I assume that is the time to do this. See what happens. Plan on installing my lamps this morning, see what happens.

Are these lamps preadjusted? Did any of you have to aim them? Guess I will find out.
 

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Ran into some complications, the harness was apparently not for my car. that fuse box lead was way too close to the LF fog lamp plug. So I had to untape the harness, move that wire to the corner, and even lengthened it to reach the relay box. It still looks OEM.

The instruction for that relay box to plug in the terminal at the right spot was not even close to my box. So I removed that, knew fuse 48 was the source and with an ohmmeter found the correct pin on that huge plugged connector. Fog lamps work.

With out my 1/4 drive impact wrench and a very short phillips socket, think I would have been dead meat for reaching those tight spaces with my oversized hands. Had the torque adjusted correctly worked like a charm. Oh, and its a lot easier to snap in those new bezels than unsnap the old ones.

Out of the box, the aiming was only about 1" low, close enough, just left it. If it wasn't for that harness and locating the correct pin hole, would have been an easy job. Those are the kind of push in connector pins, once they are in, will never get them out.

Oh the fog lamp relay even though unidentified is in that relay box, can here it click, but couldn't identify which one. Would need an assistant to push on the fog lamp switch.
 

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I just completed this DIY task this morning with a friend. I combined this HOW TO with the other fog light HOW TO with removal of bumper. The reason for this was there were better pictures on the fuse box instructions. The HOW TO was great and the project ran quite smooth. There were some hard to reach screws but other than that there were no problems. I have a 2012 LS and I did not need my fog lights reprogrammed. Thank goodness. I plugged the negative terminal plug back in, crossed my fingers, and luckily enough there worked. I do want to provide a tip that the HOW TO threads do not mention.

Fog Light Tip

Bother fog light threads say they guided the fuse wire with pliers then finished with a small flat head screw drive to secure the connection. They both stated that it was quite stubborn and difficult to secure the connection. This is because there is a grey locking mechanism that runs through the fuse box. You need to release the grey pin and the connection becomes very simple. I should of taken pictures but I was tight on time. If you need further clarification just PM me. So happy I have them installed and they are working. Fog lights really make the front end come to life!
 

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I bought them from the dealer so they are OEM, and the correct style for the Eco. Ended up being $175 for everything.

That is true about the philips screws, it also helps when it comes off cause you don't have to rotate the wrench 180 degrees just to get it aligned again.
Is it true that you have to go to the dealer to have the car programmed for lights? I read a few reviews on Amazon saying so, but haven't heard anything about it here in the forums.
 

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Look at the MFG date listed on the tag in the drivers door. Generally any 2013 made prior to March 2013 will need programming. Anything after March is ok. There is a specific date, I can't remember though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Is it true that you have to go to the dealer to have the car programmed for lights? I read a few reviews on Amazon saying so, but haven't heard anything about it here in the forums.
It seems like most 2012 models did not need to be reprogrammed. Like 99_XC600 said, there is a specific date but I am not sure.
 

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Just finished installing mine. The production date leads me to believe the dealer needs to activate them but when I press the fog lamp button, the fog lamp icon illuminates on the dash. Is this normal? The lights don't come on but I found it strange that the dash light would light up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I'm looking at adding fog lights to my 2012 2LT. Does anyone have experience with the $70 ebay lights, or would I be better off spending $175 and getting them from a chevy dealer?
I recommend the legitimate fog lamps, and not the Chinese $75 dollar ones. The cheap ones come with a generic switch, and not the OEM one meant for replacing the head lights.

Just finished installing mine. The production date leads me to believe the dealer needs to activate them but when I press the fog lamp button, the fog lamp icon illuminates on the dash. Is this normal? The lights don't come on but I found it strange that the dash light would light up...
Check your wiring, primarily making sure the fuse and fuse wire is installed correctly. If the dash light is illuminated then the fog lamps should come on.
 

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Reason why I jumpered out the terminals on my light switch and used a test lamp to verify if it works before ordering an OE kit. Read those that didn't, had a to lay out an extra hundred bucks to have their firmware reflashed. At this rate, might as well just have the dealer install them.

And why can't we even order these fogs factory installed? This is really BS, only thing missing is a couple of cheap plastic housings, a simple two wire harness, and the contact block from the light switch. Not even ten bucks worth, then to pay high overhead costs at your dealers to undo all this stuff. But at least by doing it yourself, you know its done right. In the past with my super busy schedule, had dealer installed stuff and made a mess out of my car. Then in the 2013 models, made this even more difficult by changing the firmware. Only word I can have for this, the dirty basterds.

And then with the poor lighting on this car, you really need them. Especially when make tight corners in city blocks, can't even see if there are people crossing the streets. Wife questioned why I was doing this, ordered them without her permission, but now she can't live without them.

Also a backup system for these crazy way over complex DRL's using cheap made in China point contact relays. No problems found here yet, but in professional boards with slightly older vehicles, a major problem with the multifunction dimmer switch and point contact relays.

Beside this, not even a real headlamp switch anyway, fires commands, if that firmware gets messed up in that flashram, would be dead anyway. Vehicle manufacturers use to be very concerned on this issue making the headlamp circuits as simple an independent as possible, but this is history.

As a so-called electronic expert, even I had problems finding that pin 31, but double checked it with continuity to the fuse.
Then it was covered with flashing that had to be cleaned out first, and only one shot with that single pin to get it right.

Did get lazy in trying to find where the fog lamp relay is, would have to take that relay module all apart and trace it out. Under the cover of that relay box is the component identification. 17 relays are shown, four are not used, leaving 13 that is what I have. Each one is identified with functions, but not one for the fog lamps. Could be one of the cooling fans relays with an error, shows four of these, seems way too many for just a single fan.

Don't mean to rant, in a b!tchy mood this morning, dropped my wife off at work driving into the sunrise with literally thousands of pits in my windshield that weren't there even a month or so ago. What's next?
 

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Put in an offer on some oem foglights from abernethy on ebay. Waiting to see if I get it and will hopefully get them installed soon
Their bottom dollar is I believe $170. I started at $150 and went up $5 increments three times. They then counter offered me for $170. Which I denied and went to the dealer after finding out I had to have the BCM flashed. @ my dealer they charged me $270 out the door for everything. I had heard the BCM being flash was costing people $100.
 

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Just installed mine. Took about 4 hours by myself. Kinda broke the temp sensor, but it still works. It was really a pain with those screws because I didn't have a Philips head ratchet piece, so I had to improvise with a 1/4" socket and a drill bit. Was definitely tough not having a smaller socket wrench as well, the adapter for the small piece made it too big to fit into some spaces, so I had to do a couple by hand. Finally got everything installed and wired up, fog light indicator came on in the car, but it wouldn't start! Long story short, fully putting the fuse box back together fixed it. Good how to, but had to use some from the other one for wiring references.
 

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Just to keep this thread alive I'm going to post a video that I made that somewhat walks you through the process. I say somewhat since I purchased an aftermarket kit from E-Bay. So my electrical requirements are a little different than the OEM kit. However in the end, they look and function the same.

I paid $55 for the kit.

Fits 11 14 Chevy Cruze Clear Bumper Fog Lights Chrome Trim Cover Left Right | eBay

 

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So...as I read this that was only a period of time in the 2013 production run that NEEDS programing, Does that mean a 2014 does or does NOT need programming? I really want these but I don't want to spend a Saturday waiting for a reprogramming at the dealer after I spend one putting this together and manage to get a weekend appointment.
 
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