Great write-up as always, Xtreme!
Do you have a sense of how much unsprung weight this mod adds?
Do you have a sense of how much unsprung weight this mod adds?
I'd say somewhere in the range of 5 pounds; however much the bar, two aluminum bosses, and two bolts weigh. I didn't actually measure it.Great write-up as always, Xtreme!
Do you have a sense of how much unsprung weight this mod adds?
I'm not a fan of lowered springs personally due to how little suspension travel these cars have in the first place and how easily it is to upset the chassis if you hit a bump in a corner while lowered, but this did really tie everything together. It helps that I have the two upper and one rear lower Ultra Racing chassis bars.Great right up!!! This seems easy even though the springs come out, great time to add some drop springs too huh...
I did a rear bar on my truck and I know totally different platform, but it really ties the front and rear together.
It's an actual jack pad, made of hard rubber.Xtreme, can you describe the insulator between your jack and chassis? It looks like a hockey puck.
The key being, you need the shocks/struts to handle them, and 95% of people don't have those. I also have issue with the balljoint angle and loss of dynamic camber on lowered cars with macpherson struts. We have enough understeer as it is without losing dynamic camber.Pucks make the best jack pads. They're borderline indestructible and dirt cheap.
This looks like a potential modification in the near future. I've got a massive 1.25" bar on my Cobalt - having a rear bar on the Cruze would add an extra bit of rotation.
Lowering springs are great if they're done right (i.e. Pedders, Powell and SSC springs, on Cobalts) - many are not - and you need the shocks/struts to handle them.
This specific sway bar? How did you get the spring bosses out and the new ones in? Removing the springs is actually part of their instructions.Did mine without pulling the springs.
I think that's the part the manufacturer wants to avoid. If you aren't very careful, you can mangle the new boss when you're tightening the sway bar instead of pulling it into its correct position. Getting the springs off only takes you another 10-15 minutes and allows you to hammer the new bosses correctly into their position.I've got the 2014 diesel if that makes a difference. Knocked the old bushing out from the bottom and it will come out between the coils. Slip the new one in and carefully use the bolt to pull it into place.
Ha, I didn't even think it would fit the other way around. I might go rotate it tomorrow and take another picture, as long as it clears the aero cover that the Eco has in that spot. I don't think it matters which way it goes as long as it doesn't hit something when the suspension is compressed. There are a good 6 inches to go before the bar hits the exhaust pipe.According to the fitment guide, you put your bar on backwards.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z5265.pdf
Correct, this will fit cars with both configurations.Judging by your photos and the tech paper posted by weimerrj , this will fit both Z-link and non z-link suspensions?
Just last spring had to re-torque mine as wellI did mine 2 years ago. I used loctite and tightened them good. Was getting a little clicking noise from the back. Had to re torque the bolts down.